4th week, stop root fertilizers and amino treatment.

Red Wine was a joy to grow. Very easy plant that not need a lot of nutrition to eat. Smell is out of this world, cant pinpoint because Ive never done Red Wine ever... But its fruity and a hint of berries. From Seed to flower it took 11 weeks. Thats a fast growing plant

Many signs of flower but calling this week veg. This has been such a simple grow. Very light food and water intake. Keeps the res nice and stable. I just raise the lights a couple inches every few days. For topping, alternate between 100% solution and plain water too keep my PPMs up.

This week everything was going great, until boom I broke the stem of the runtz muffins trying to dry off some excess water. Also I've started to see some yellowing leaves in the Yuhbary and blackberry moonrocks.Let's see what happens

Harvest time for my solo cups girls 😉

What's up Grow Diaries family, super excited to have another grow in addition to the Gelatos. This time is a little different since it will be a new experience for me. First time growing an auto flower strain, first time using Bio Tabs, and first time using the quantum board for the full cycle. I usually use the QB304 for vegging, but since I got a 2'x2' tent. It'll be dedicated for that space. I finally got a hold of some FastBuds seeds but I've been losing sleep contemplating on which strain to grow. I have some LSD-25 and Blackberry, which are fantastic strains (based on what i've seen). It came down to a coin toss and LSD-25 was chosen. Come and join me in this new journey. I've read up on how to grow autos and all that but I know there are plenty of seasoned veterans out there that could share some knowledge. Week 1 - Prepped Fox Farms Ocean Forest soil by mixings BioTabs Startrex and Mycotrex. I know there's been a lot of debate about using 3 gal vs 5 gal for autos but I'm using a 5 gal. fabric pot since that's what I have and probably would still buy a 5 gal instead of a 3. But who am I, I'm another first time auto grower. Hahaha! Let me know your thoughts on this. Light cycle is set to 20 hours instead of the usual 12/12, 18/6, 24. I was debating on running the lights 24/7 but wanted to have period when the plant rest. Not too sure if autos need it but my electric bill could use a break. Soaked the seed overnight and sown into soil approximately 1/2 in. Placed a humidity dome (solo cups 😉) over the site to keep humidity up. Humidity in the room is around 45% which is pretty low for germination. Temperature at 78°F which is good. Within the next day or so, we should have this sprouting out of the soil. Once that happens, an update will soon to follow. UPDATE: 11/9/2018 Day 1 LSD-25 finally sprouted 😃. Relative humidity has been low at 35ish%, keeping a humidity dome/spraying Ph'd water to keep her happy until she gets a little bit bigger. If the humidity levels stay this low, I'll be putting in the humidifier until conditions get better. Enjoy the new pictures and stay tuned for the next update! Day 3 - RH has been going down to the teens so I added the humidifier for now. Conditions are a lot better and is now in the 70's. Increased the blower speed to kinda balance out the incoming dry air. Day 4 - Dialed in the incoming air by adjusting the blower and vent. Humidifier doing it's thing getting RH at 72%. Saturated the soil with regular tap water + Bactrex + Orgatrex + Cal-Mag. We'll see how this goes since no PH or EC readings required with BioTabs. I do plan on using Real Growers Recharge once she gets out of the seedling stage. Once she starts flowering, Mammoth P will be used 😉 Day 5 - Leaves are pointing up, this could be a bad thing right? I think it's due to the low humidity and possibly light burn. Humidifier was setup yesterday so maybe she just needs to get reacclimatized to her new environment. I also increased the light distance a couple of inched just in case. Day 6 - Seems like the leaves are starting to level out and color is starting to look better 😀 Day 7 - End of week 1! Nothing to report other than new pictures are up. See you on the next update.

On week 7 she is still putting out a lot of new pistils. Colas are fattening up but still have a few more weeks to go. The smell is sweet and fruity so far but its still early as trichs are still developing. Her top colas got a little too close to the lights and may be fox tailing or shes just more sativa of a pheno either way shes making some long colas and Im happy about that :)

well what can i say this is what I saved from the fusarium outbreak that I had with the mother and all the clones. Managed to save 5 clones 2 are with a friend now. I have 3, one is a great specimen and the other 2 are lil clones that could. Round 2 here we go! Wish me luck!

10/19/24 started

We are in week five. I was a little embarrassed because my girls reacted to the stress by shrinking. Now the situation is perhaps consolidated and we are gaining weight. They will be such tiny beauties, I really hope. pH still unstable (5-6), EC of rainwater supplemented with a mix of organic fertilizers to a value of min. 1.2-1.6 The girls look healthy so I cuted some leafs but only so much, as the all tops have good position for light source.

Flowering day 44 since time change to 12 / 12 h Hey guys :-) The buds are becoming incredibly beautiful and smelling better and better ☺️. Today there was again the full load of food and will be slowly driven down as soon as it comes to an end :-) Was watered 3 times a week with 1.2 l each (nutrients see table above) Otherwise everything was cleaned. Have fun and stay healthy 💚💚💚 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 You can buy this Nutrients at : https://greenbuzzliquids.com/en/shop/ With the discount code: Made_in_Germany you get a discount of 15% on all products from an order value of 100 euros. 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 You can buy this strain at : https://www.exoticseed.eu/de/hanfsamen/lemon-candy Water 💧 💧💧 Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.8 - 6.5 MadeInGermany

Flushed HARDCORE this week!! Ladies are not looking well nor do they seem like they’re reacting to the flush well either!! Almost seems like they’re locked out but also having deficiencies! I could use some advice on this. 3/5 of the taller plants have yellowed out and the other 2 look great!! Pretty much all the same watering and neuts. I think the issue was that I’m using fabric pots and not allowing enough penetration to the bottom and it created a salt pocket. Correct me if I’m wrong Updated a few more pics of the deficiency/lockout issues all the help is appreciated thanks to everyone whose chiming in and helping!! Y’all the real deal!!

The vids may not be in correct order but this is the most recent. She started in the dwc on the 7 at 5 days old and today marks 21 from seed, 17 in pot. The Larry og seems to be growing but she is showing some bad genetic inheritance. He sister is in the container on the ground in the grow bag. Same time same period. The two behind is the sister gsc and a grand daddy banner.

"Mens Dei" What can be made to expand, airy and loose, can also be made to contract, dense and tight. Trichomes do not discriminate, although we like to think of trichomes' primary purpose as being to get us high; they are there to provide photoprotection (sunscreen). Trichomes apply themselves based on area dimensions; the more area = the more trichomes in order to protect. Different from density: Trichomes, the resinous glands on plants, are often produced in response to stress, including high light intensity. This increased production can lead to denser trichome coverage on the plant, stress, stress, stress, stress is the signal. There is a certain beauty in watching the large water-filled buds once swollen to the brim slowly shrink during drying, as the surface areas contract, the trichomes just cluster up to form denser and denser coatings, already dense from high light intensities, UVB exposure, and IPS, and every other stressor I could tweak. Trichomes, the resinous glands on cannabis plants, are often produced in response to various forms of stress. These stresses can be environmental, like excess light(HIL) or UV-B radiation, temperature fluctuations, or drought, or mechanical, such as wind, pruning, or even the weight of the plant's own buds. The plant reacts to these stressors by increasing trichome production as a defensive mechanism to protect itself and its valuable compounds like THC and CBD. In essence, cannabis plants perceive stress as a threat and respond by producing more trichomes as a way to protect themselves and their valuable compounds. Several studies have shown this. Not so much a "master" grower as a master of stress. Psssst. Trichomes fill with "antioxidants," including THC. Ant"ox"idants, The production of antioxidants in plants is intricately linked to their oxidative apparatus. The plant has limited oxidative capacity/apparatus. During daytime photosynthesis, a large percentage of that oxidative capacity is tied up in protecting the plant. During the night, plants alter their metabolic pathways. This leads to a far more focused production of specific antioxidants, like THC. Plants also produce antioxidants during the day to scavenge ROS made from photosynthesis. The differential ROS production by blue and IR light can have significant biological consequences. For example, high levels of ROS induced by blue light can lead to cell damage and death, while lower levels of ROS produced by IR light may be involved in beneficial cellular signaling pathways. Long nights under the IR (very low ROS), the boost in cellular respiration, and the boost in energy production. In a perfect world, I'd give the plant a shock treatment of 60DLI in 4 hours and give her the other 20 hours to perform cellular respiration under IR. The stress of those 4 hours would be rigorous and full of stress abound, 1800-2000ppm CO2 is easy for a couple of hours during daylight, it's maintaining it that's hard, but 4 hours is very doable with nothing but a little extra "carbon sugar" in your medium every other night during the first 4 weeks of flower. In my opinion, you only need to jack CO2 for those first 4 weeks of flower to see maximal output, after that it's all about trichome preservation, everything else comes second. Without the temps to assist with metabolism, CO2 is reduced to normal levels along with temps 4-5th week of flower. Buds are primarily composed of water. Developing flower buds, like other plant tissues, require a significant amount of water for growth and turgor pressure, which helps maintain their structure and firmness. Turgor pressure in plant cells is primarily generated by osmosis, but transpiration plays a crucial role in maintaining it. The optimal internal leaf surface temperature for photosynthesis at 1800-2000ppm CO2 is likely in the upper range of 97°F, meaning ambient would need to sit at 102°F-ish or thereabout for full metabolic utilization. That's putting your transpirational pulling force x5 x6 maybe x7 of what it would be if she were cruising at 68F. "My buds won't fatten, what can I do!!" Crank it. If your purpose was to blow up a balloon as fast as you can, as much as you can, would you use 2x force or x5 Force to do so? Bad analogy, but you get the idea. Kiss. Optimize photosynthesis & VPD by day, cellular respiration by night. TECHNICALLY: "While transpiration and cellular respiration are both ongoing plant processes, they are not neatly separated into day and night. Both processes occur both day and night, though at different rates and with different emphasis. Transpiration, the release of water vapor from plant surfaces, is primarily driven by sunlight and photosynthesis during the day, but it also continues at a lower rate at night. Cellular respiration, which provides energy for the plant, occurs continuously, both day and night. " A leaf can perform cellular respiration and photosynthesis simultaneously. During daylight hours, plant cells utilize both processes: photosynthesis to produce glucose and oxygen, and cellular respiration to break down glucose and release energy for the cell's needs. The products of photosynthesis (glucose and oxygen) are used as reactants in cellular respiration, while the products of cellular respiration (carbon dioxide and water) can be used in photosynthesis. The limiting factor is the oxidative capacity; the less a leaf is utilizing photosynthesis, the less oxidative capacity it uses, and the more it can perform cellular respiration. Even if a leaf is not in an optimal photosynthetic position, it can still utilize respiration to its full capacity during daylight hours. Kinda too much info to explain when some asks if they should defoliate or not, yeah add calmag or some shit. BUT Only 10% ATP can be processed through photosynthesis and carbon capture. 90% of ATP is processed when the plant's oxidative capacity becomes available (NIGHTTIME). Cellular respiration relies on the process of oxidation to generate energy. Specifically, the final stage of cellular respiration, called oxidative phosphorylation, utilizes oxygen as the final electron acceptor to produce a substantial amount of ATP, the cell's primary energy currency. Factors such as oxygen concentration, glucose availability and temperature will all impact the amount of aerobic respiration an organism will perform. See you next grow, *twiddles thumbs*

Ehi ragazzi come va tutto bene? 💪 Ah me si!😼la settimana è stata fruttuosa piena di novità e di progetti studiati che si stanno moltiplicando sia nella mia mente che anche nella realtà! Lasciamo perdere questa divagazione, .. posso dire che l esperimento di fare crescere questo F1 hibrido speciale in outdoor con un ciclo di luce naturale ,sia un esperimento davvero molto interessante per la comprensione delle diverse ore di luce e gli agenti ambientali, quindi variabili ambientali incontrollate, e si vedrà come crescera questa meraviglia della natura! 🧙‍♂️🌿🌲 Ringrazio RQS per aver reso questo progetto possibile ! Vi adoro a tutti ❤️💕 buon 420 a tutti! 😼😽🐈💨😂😼

23/07/2021 (F DAY 56) Seguimos observando solamente. Preparando los dos riegos semanales y cargando el cisterna del blumat. Empiezan a aparecer unos tricomas marrones en la Sweet Cheese pero muy pocos, se estima que semana que viene o la otra se va!