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So far all plants have been harvested. (3x Bubba Pupil, 1x purple wreck, 1x AK-47, 1x Godberry). The first bubba pupil and AK-47 were harvested a week and a half ago and now have been jarred for 1 week +/- a few days. All pictures are of the bubba pupil and AK. I will come back and update once the other plants have been trimmed. The first Bubba Pupil, which was the tallest of the 3 and most stretched out, yielded exactly 4.5 Oz dry weight. The smell is starting to get stronger after a week. It smells grapey but has a weird funk to it. It must be the “pupil” funk everyone talks about. This plant looked like it wasn’t going to yield much, but I was pleasantly surprised. The lowers were dense and compact which contributed to a good amount of decent sized buds. Overall, I’m pretty pleased with the yield and quality from this plant. The AK-47 seemed like it was going to be a heavier yielder, but it ended up only yielding 2.5 Oz dry. The main colas were far during flower and dense when dried, but this plant had little to no lower quality buds. Everything below the main canopy seemed like it was airy and not worth jarring up. This plant smells a little bit fruity, but I can’t really put my finger on it. Super dank smelling, not skunky, but it smells like it is going to be gaseous once it cures up a bit longer. The Godberry yielded a total of 3.25 Oz. She was the best smelling by far out of all of the girls in the tent. Super fruity and sticky as hell. The resin content on her was definitely the highest of them all. I will be back to update once the last 3 plants are trimmed and jarred for a final weight and overview.
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Week 5, Day 37 sprout, Day 7 bloom, Watered 1-1/2gal/ea. 5ml/gal Cal/Mag, 10ml/gal Seaweed/Fish extract. Removed some leaves. Day 38 LST. Day 40/10bloom I moved a MarsHydro Pro II Epistar 400W beside the TS-1000 and set both to 14" Installed 2 6" fans above plants to feed air and CO2. Day 41 made 3gal PH 6.3 Worm Tea; 2tbsp Molasses, 1-1/2cup Worm Castings, 1/2cup coffee chaff, 3-packs Green Tea, 4ml/gal Cal/Mag, 10ml/gal Seaweed/Fish extract, 0.5ml/gal Orca. Day41/11bloom watered 1-1/2gal/ea 1275PPM Worm Tea. Re-LST w/outrigger stakes keeping the canopy as close to the pot as possible.
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Its day 25 since sproud and the plants are looking good so far. The jslow stress training with the clips works as expected and the branches are getting thicker and more robust. Defoliation on day 34. I collected leave mold from the surrounding woods. a lot of white fungy hopefully usefull mycoriza.
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Overall this plant was great to grow, she just grew and was happy doing it the entire time, pretty good yield off a plant that was only about 12inches tall. Seemed to be a lot more resistant to deficiencies then the other two strains this grow. Definitely a great mid-day Smoke!
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- DAY 36 (09/07) In recent days I cut the two older pairs of infected leaves. The day after the previous feeding with Micro-Grow-Bloom, light rust-colored spots appeared on some old leaves, especially at the edges. I will show you better in the following days. At the moment they seem to be few. Everything that I will do relevant in the days of this week I will update it here in Week Comment. I am open to advice, I would be happy if you comment with what you would do in my place. - DAY 41 (14/07) TOPPING & FEEDING I topped the tip as in the photo. After that, I irrigated 1.5 liter of water with: - 0.75ml Micro - 0.75ml Grow - 0.75ml Bloom (Always with some lemon juice, not much, I want to trust the PH perfect technology adopted by the manufacturer) Solution PH: range 6.7/7.0 In the same evening I sprayed the usual mix of neem oil. (neem oil, water, potassium soap and lemon juice) Day/night air temperature on average for this week: Day 30-32 °C. Night 20-22 °C.
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@cpt420
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So as you can see, they are sparkling :) the fan leaves at the bottom are starting to turn yellow and working their way up. Started the flushing process on two of them as the one is about two weeks behind flowering. Very grateful that I haven't had any problems with mould or pests, touch wood. About two weeks left before harvest time. Still need to buy a proper pruning shear. Any suggestions as there are so many out there?
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W#10 day64. Last moments.. Super small pot size 3.2L.
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So this week was a bad one due to loosing 3 plants due to birds/mice. I have put the somango out in the ground which is in the video and also the special kush. The others I’m gonna give another week in the garden to get a much better root ball. Started them all on a little bit of grow this week and will water i between. That’s about it this week. Happy growing!🌱
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@DUBBAGE
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It was a blast growing her! Testing out her crosses now
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@ZJRDUDEZ
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Week 6 of flower for these ladies and their pistols are all starting to turn very orange. You can see in the picture of the burn leaf that I messed up on the PH and let it run to high for to long, so my PH level was around 7.2 in my soil. The Ghost OG seems to be a bit behind in development than the other two but that’s fine. I’ll probably still chop her same day as the others because I won’t be running the ghost OG anymore. I have recently been stocking my personal seed vault. So in the near future after I get a strong mother from the Tropic Moon & Dark Plasma by OceanGrownSeeds. I plan on also be running the Dominatrix and the Primal Punch F2 by EmpireBreedingCo. I hope you guys are excited to see these strains grown. If you don’t know of OceanGrownSeeds or EmpireBreedingCo make sure to check them out on Instagram. Thanks for checking out the garden.
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In the immortal words of Garven Dreis "Almost there" One more week I hope, I want to see calyx bursting with beans. There has not been a lot of growth or weight this last week. looks like a medium yielder with tight sticky nugs.
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Forgot to document further, this is all i had before harvest, harvested around week 11 of flower
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More slow growth. Will be topping as soon as possible. Hopefully now there are more leaves, things should speed up.
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Peleando un poco con la temperatura y humedad pero de resto perfecto, hemos hecho una defoliacion bastante sutil.
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Tweak, tweak, tweak, getting her set up for the switch. Double net this time. Going to oversaturate with red wavelengths for a week before we dial her in. I dropped her to 12 hours and upped the PPFD accordingly. Waiting game for now. Last grow I was not sure if it was me messing with darkness or if my overloading of sugar, but I felt the flower was delayed quite a bit from what I was used to. Could not put my finger on it at first. High concentrations of sugar can delay flowering by extending the late vegetative phase. This delays the activation of LFY expression, which controls floral transition. Sugar signals are involved in all key transitions of the plant life cycle. Sugar signaling interacts with hormone signaling pathways. Red light wavelengths between 600–700 nanometers (nm) encourage budding and flowering. Red light affects hormones like auxins, which control how plants stretch and develop flowers.Red light interacts with phytochromes to affect plant morphology. Phytochromes also play a role in shade avoidance and sensing changes in the local light environment and time of year. The aim is to replicate nature, UVA peak + predominantly reds at sunrise UVB peaks at noon UVA peak + predominantly far-reds at sunset Also has a light coating of 850nm&940nm IR, 45% of the sunlight that reaches the surface of the earth is IR, Infrared (IR) light primarily provides heat to plants, which can be beneficial for growth within a certain range, but too much IR can cause stress, damage, and even kill plants due to excessive heat, disrupting their normal photosynthetic processes; while plants don't directly use IR for photosynthesis, it can influence aspects like flowering and leaf expansion when present in appropriate amounts. Particularly in the far-red wavelengths, can trigger the shade avoidance response, where plants sense a lack of direct light and accelerate stem growth to reach for better light conditions. This is especially useful in indoor environments where light conditions are carefully managed. Increasing this light can affect the growth speed of plants' stems. A short exposure to infrared increases the space between nodes. However too much infrared may actually damage plants. Because infrared is a kind of light that can emit a great deal of heat. While the spectral composition of sunlight at both sunrise and sunset is essentially the same, the key difference lies in the increased scattering of shorter wavelengths like blue and violet light during these times due to the longer path the sunlight takes through the atmosphere, resulting in a more pronounced red and orange color at the horizon, as these longer wavelengths are scattered less and reach our eyes more readily. A sunset generally has more far-red light than a sunrise because the sunlight travels through a longer path through the atmosphere at sunset, causing more blue light to scatter and leaving a greater proportion of red and far-red wavelengths visible to the eye. The Pr/Pfr ratio is the ratio of phytochrome Pr to phytochrome Pfr in a plant. The ratio changes throughout the day and night, and it affects how the plant grows and flowers. How the ratio changes Daytime: Red light converts Pr to Pfr, so the ratio is low. Nighttime: Far-red light converts Pfr to Pr, so the ratio is high. Seasons: The ratio changes with the seasons because of the length of the days and the position of the sun. How does the ratio affect the plant? Photomorphogenesis: The ratio triggers photomorphogenesis, which is when a seed transforms into a sprout. Flowering: The ratio affects whether short-day or long-day plants flower. Growth: The ratio affects how much a plant grows. For example, a lower ratio of red to far-red light can improve a plant's growth under salinity conditions. How do plants sense the ratio? Plants use pigments to sense the ratio of red to far-red light. Using the phytochrome system to measure the ratio at dawn and dusk. The phytochrome system helps plants adjust their growth according to the seasons. Ratio. In controlled environment agriculture, customized light treatments using light-emitting diodes are crucial to improving crop yield and quality. Red (R; 600-700 nm) and blue light (B; 400-500 nm) are two major parts of photosynthetically active radiation (PAR), often preferred in crop production. Far-red radiation (FR; 700-800 nm), although not part of PAR, can also affect photosynthesis and can have profound effects on a range of morphological and physiological processes. However, interactions between different red and blue light ratios (R:B) and FR on promoting yield and nutritionally relevant compounds in crops remain unknown. Here, lettuce was grown at 200 µmol m-2 s-1 PAR under three different R:B ratios: R:B87.5:12.5 (12.5% blue), R:B75:25 (25% blue), and R:B60:40 (40% blue) without FR. Each treatment was also performed with supplementary FR (50 µmol m-2 s-1; R:B87.5:12.5+FR, R:B75:25+FR, and R:B60:40+FR). White light with and without FR (W and W+FR) were used as control treatments comprising of 72.5% red, 19% green, and 8.5% blue light. Decreasing the R:B ratio from R:B87.5:12.5 to R:B60:40, there was a decrease in fresh weight (20%) and carbohydrate concentration (48% reduction in both sugars and starch), whereas pigment concentrations (anthocyanins, chlorophyll, and carotenoids), phenolic compounds, and various minerals all increased. These results contrasted the effects of FR supplementation in the growth spectra; when supplementing FR to different R:B backgrounds, we found a significant increase in plant fresh weight, dry weight, total soluble sugars, and starch. Additionally, FR decreased concentrations of anthocyanins, phenolic compounds, and various minerals. Although blue light and FR effects appear to directly contrast, blue and FR light did not have interactive effects together when considering plant growth, morphology, and nutritional content. Therefore, the individual benefits of increased blue light fraction and supplementary FR radiation can be combined and used cooperatively to produce crops of desired quality: adding FR increases growth and carbohydrate concentration while increasing the blue fraction increases nutritional value. https://www.frontiersin.org/journals/plant-science/articles/10.3389/fpls.2024.1383100/full Here are a few examples of good time lapse intervals based on the subject: Fast-moving clouds, traffic: 1-2 seconds Sunsets, sunrises, slower clouds: 2-5 seconds Moving shadows, sun across the sky (no clouds): 15-30 seconds Star trails: 30 seconds or longer Plant growth, construction projects: Minutes or longer intervals
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2024-10-25 I'm in a state of disbelief with these results. The timeline was remarkable: - Started seeds soaking: August 18th - Seedlings emerged: Approximately one week later - Time to harvest: Only 10 weeks from emergence Having grown autoflowers before, this run absolutely exceeded my expectations. I tested 9 different strains from Anesia Seeds, and each one was impressive: 1. Frozen Black Cherry Auto 2. Violet Face Auto 3. Frozen Face Auto 4. Whaam Boom Auto 5. Jealousy Auto 6. Tahiti Vibez 7. Auto Purple Domina 8. Epic Buzz Auto 9. SMASHBERRY FUMEZ Auto I'm seriously reconsidering growing photoperiods next time as I see no compelling reason to do so currently. These autos were: - Vigorous - Low maintenance - Extremely fast (saving 4-5 weeks compared to photos) **EPIC BUZZ AUTO Highlight Review:** - Height: Impressive 160cm plants - Growth pattern: Chandelier-like structure - Bud characteristics: - Heavy, dense buds - Excellent bud-to-leaf ratio - No popcorn buds - Expected yield: Approximately 120g dry weight per plant - Overall: Highly recommended Final verdict pending after curing is complete.
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@420Hydro
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Not much has changed this week..all 3 clones doing ok..back one is struggling a little think it had little nutrient deficiency..think from cloning hopefully it will green up..
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@HOF_Beats
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Great growth for the 2 larger plants. Ice Cream cake is slowly growing more. Will be doing some defoliation in a couple days.
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So only after two weeks of curing these buds are becoming more and more refined! The texture of the buds is beautiful, it crumbles and grinds up effortlessly in my space case and is light, fluffy and almost “goopy” coming out of the grinder. I guess goopy is my description of ground bud that sticks together as it comes out of the grinder. It almost resembles goo or putty! That’s always a great indicator of a strain that has lots of sticky dank trichomes 😎 Now onto the high... I must admit, I was a little disappointed at first. I was initially caught off guard by how smooth the smoke went down, but usually after the first hit I feel something. After the first hit of this strain I didn’t, so I packed another bowl and sparked her up... not much different. Around 15min after my second hit I started to gradually feel a trippy/tingly full body buzz and strong head buzz come on. Once I sat down on the couch it’s like it fully kicked in and I really felt a truly euphoric full body high along with a head high that felt incredible. She’s definitely what some would call a “creeper strain”! To me though, the high is reminiscent of the first hour after ingestion of some top quality cubensis! In a nutshell the high is euphoric, energetic and crisp. I don’t feel groggy at all when I smoke this strain, I can be extremely productive with work and still articulate my thoughts with ease. I also noticed that I don’t get anxious in public and even though this strain is extremely uplifting and energetic I have zero issues getting to sleep at night. I could truly classify this strain as medicinal and I know if I was still a caregiver this would be on constant rotation! I will update more after 2.5-3.0 months cure!
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The humidity this week has been brutal. It appears I have a little bit of mold stating just on the fan leaves at the base of the plant. Waiting on a dehumidifier to arrive. Hopefully this doesn’t affect the plant too much. The plant on the right continues to stretch, but as you can see I’m running out of room. Not sure what I’ll do if it continues to stretch! Any suggestions welcome!