Planted into final 15 ltr pots, put into veg tent, started automated feeding on light nutrients. Automated watering, pump turns on & waters plants for 15 minutes out of every hour. Recirculating hydro, I run air pumps to my resovoir to provide airated water/nutes to the plants. Hydro system is a 15 ltr pro pot recirculating adjustable height system. Inner & outer pots! Inner pot has plastic mesh type of bottom , holes everywhere to allow roots to grow through, this sits in a sealed pot apart from 19 mm drainage hose, & has 3 adjustable heights. Which is very handy when you have plants of different heights, as it helps to level them out. Drainage pipe is waround an inch or so off the bottom, so that their is always water/nutes in the bottom of pot, another reason I run air lines. Plants grow big root system's in it! At harvest time when I take the top pots out the roots have filled the entire space & are really compressed! Absolutely crazy! I run the same set up in veg & flower & as I grow perpetualy it makes it easy to simply pick up the inner pot & move it & place it in flowering tent & set up. System can be purchased with a 3rd pot as to be used upside down as a base to get pots of the ground so they can be drained back to a res. Instead of doing like that I simply built a table to sit the system on allowing me to drain it to a res underneath, it came at a good price as well, grows awesome plants.

Hi everyone :-) This week the buds developed super ;-) All are beautiful 😍. Super genetics 👍. Blue Cheese pheno 1 is slowly coming to an end :-) This week I will start to use up the remaining nutrients and harvest in 10-14 days ;-) Everyone else needs something else :-) have fun with the videos, stay healthy 🙏🏻 and let it grow 🌱

I raised her in a skull, but most of her life was spent in neglect. I left her outside in burning heat, then in sudden cold, dragged her indoors, then abandoned her again. She suffered thirst, darkness, and the bite of spidermites that stripped her leaves — though strangely, they spared the flowers, as if something in her bloom commanded a grim respect. When her time came, I did not cut her. Growing is usually a preparation for harvest — you nurture only to take, always before death arrives on its own. I chose the opposite. I carried her down into the cellar for her final weeks, set her skull in the stone-lit dark, and simply let her decline. There she stood, a crown of fading flowers above hollow bone, turning slowly from bloom to ruin. I left her to wither not by accident, but as proof. To show that a grow without harvest becomes its own message: that life, denied the cut, meets death as it is, unshaped, unclaimed. And in that cellar, in her vessel of bone, she embodied what I wanted to see — beauty not ended by hand, but surrendered to shadow.

Hi everyone, Weed brothers Welcome to another week dedicated to the cultivation of our beloved and very esteemed plant! There was so hot this week in this tent! This bush is becoming very tempting !!! ; ) Happy and abundant harvesters for everyone

Removed autoflower and put her in her own pot outside the tent. Foliars applied in strong blue 430nm with 4000Hz tone. 20-minute dose prior to application. In essence, you're seeing a combination of the infrared light reflected by the plant, which the camera perceives as red, and any residual visible blue light the plant reflects, which results in a purple hue. I was doing more stretching of the stems, adjusting weights, just a little too much, and it snapped almost clean. I got a little lucky in that it was still connected, wrapped her almost instantly while holding her in place with yoyos. I am hopeful she will recover and reconnect the xylem and phloem channels. Oopsy level stress event. A couple of days later, the stem was tied in place to hold it, and I spent some time gently caressing the stem, bending it over time as it becomes more pliable the more you bend it. A little delay, but the core framework is now in place. If your soil has too high a pH, which is not ideal, you want a pH of 6.4, 6.5, or 6.6, which is ideal. If you are over a pH of 7, you have no hydrogen on the clay colloid. If you want your pH down, add Carbon. You are going to find a lot of people who will huff and puff and blow the house down and say, "Well, everyone's pH is high." That may be, but it doesn't mean it's right. But if you keep the pH below 7, you will unlock hydrogen, a whole host of new microbes become active and begin working, the plant will now be able to make more sugar because she has microbes giving off carbon dioxide, and the carbon you added hangs onto water. Everything has electricity in it. When you get the microbes eating carbon, breathing oxygen, giving off CO2, those aerobic soil microbes will carry about 0.5V of electricity that makes up the EC, The microorganisms will take a metal-based mineral and a non-metal-based mineral with about 1000 different combinations, and they will create an organic salt! That doesn't kill them, that the plant loves, that the plant enjoys. This creates an environment that is conducive to growing its own food. Metal-based: Could include elements like iron, manganese, copper, or zinc, which are essential nutrients for plants but can exist in forms not readily accessible. Non-metal-based: Examples like calcium carbonate, phosphate, or sulfur, also important for plant growth and potentially serving as building blocks for the organic salt. Chelation in a plant medium is a chemical process where a chelating agent, a negatively charged organic compound, binds to positively charged metal ions, like iron, zinc, and manganese. This forms a stable, soluble complex that protects the micronutrient from becoming unavailable to the plant in the soil or solution. The chelate complex is then more easily absorbed by the plant's roots, preventing nutrient deficiency, improving nutrient uptake, and enhancing plant growth. Chelation is similar to how microorganisms create organic salts, as both involve using organic molecules to bind with metal ions, but chelation specifically forms ring-like structures, or chelates, while the "organic salts" of microorganisms primarily refer to metal-complexed low molecular weight organic acids like gluconic acid. Microorganisms use this process to solubilize soil phosphates by chelating cations such as iron (Fe) and calcium (Ca), increasing their availability. Added sugars stimulate soil microbial activity, but directly applying sugar, especially in viscous form, can be tricky to dilute. Adding to the soil is generally not a beneficial practice for the plant itself and is not a substitute for fertilizer. While beneficial microbes can be encouraged by the sugar, harmful ones may also be stimulated, and the added sugar is a poor source of essential plant nutrients. Sugar in soil acts as a food source for microbes, but its effects on plants vary significantly with the sugar's form and concentration: simple sugars like glucose can quickly boost microbial activity and nutrient release. But scavenge A LOT of oxygen in the process, precious oxygen. Overly high concentrations of any sugar can attract pests, cause root rot by disrupting osmotic balance, and lead to detrimental fungal growth. If you are one who likes warm tropical high rh, dead already. Beneficial, absolutely, but only to those who don't run out of oxygen. Blackstrap is mostly glucose, iirc regular molasses is mostly sucrose. Sugars, especially sucrose, act as signaling molecules that interact with plant hormones and regulate gene expression, which are critical for triggering the floral transition. When sucrose is added to the growth medium significantly influences its effect on floral transition. Probably wouldn't bother with blackstrap given its higher glucose content. Microbes in the soil consume the sugar and, in the process, draw nitrogen from the soil, which is the same nutrient the plant needs. Glucose is not an oxygen scavenger itself, but it acts as a substrate for the glucose oxidase (GOx) enzyme, effectively removing oxygen from a system. Regular molasses (powdered if you can) soon as she flips to flower or a week before, the wrong form of sugar can delay flower, or worse. Wrong quantity, not great either. The timing of sucrose application is crucial. It was more complicated than I gave it credit for, that's for sure. When a medium's carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio reaches 24:1, it signifies an optimal balance for soil microbes to thrive, leading to efficient decomposition and nutrient cycling. At this ratio, soil microorganisms have enough nitrogen for their metabolic needs, allowing them to break down organic matter and release vital nutrients like phosphorus and zinc for plants. Exceeding this ratio results in slower decomposition and nitrogen immobilization, while a ratio below 24:1 leads to faster breakdown and excess nitrogen availability. Carbon and nitrogen are two elements in soils and are required by most biology for energy. Carbon and nitrogen occur in the soil as both organic and inorganic forms. The inorganic carbon in the soil has minimal effect on soil biochemical activity, whereas the organic forms of carbon are essential for biological activity. Inorganic carbon in the soil is primarily present as carbonates, whereas organic carbon is present in many forms, including live and dead plant materials and microorganisms; some are more labile and therefore, can be easily decomposed, such as sugars, amino acids, and root exudates; while others are more recalcitrant, such as lignin, humin, and humic acids. Soil nitrogen is mostly present in organic forms (usually more than 95 % of the total soil nitrogen), but also in inorganic forms, such as nitrate and ammonium. Soil biology prefers a certain ratio of carbon to nitrogen (C:N). Amino acids make up proteins and are one of the nitrogen-containing compounds in the soil that are essential for biological energy. The C:N ratio of soil microbes is about 10:1, whereas the preferred C:N ratio of their food is 24:1 (USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service 2011). Soil bacteria (3-10:1 C:N ratio) generally have a lower C:N ratio than soil fungi (4-18:1 C:N ratio) (Hoorman & Islam 2010; Zhang and Elser 2017). It is also important to mention that the ratio of carbon to other nutrients, such as sulfur (S) and phosphorous (P) also are relevant to determine net mineralization/immobilization. For example, plant material with C:S ratio smaller than 200:1 will promote mineralization of sulfate, while C:S ratio higher than 400:1 will promote immobilization (Scherer 2001). Stalking the Wild Pendulum - Itzhak Bentov.

9/10 Went and shook the plants off. I don't think it rained. I think it's just dew. Plants with ailments seem to be progressing well and it looks like they'll outrun the pathogens. It may not be a banner year yield wise but the quality will be great it looks like. GMO is stacking up real nice. The ones in further flower are swelling more and more everyday. Earwigs MAY be back because I noticed a couple of plants where I left a tiny little branch on the bottom have been lollipopped on tje sherb pie and rather quickly too. I suppose it could be leaves dieing and rotting bit I doubt it. If they are here there aren't many and most plants are too far in flower for them to bother. They eat the lower newly developing shoots. Not big dense buds. Luckily. I noticed some pm on the gmo with pm. Looks like it's time for another treatment of k bicarb. I'll probably do that tonight. I'll keep this updated. WENT BACK OVER AND DEFOLIATED A BUNCH OF STUFF. ITS TIME FOR ANOTHER APP OF K BICARB. I CHECKED THE SHERB PIE AND IT DOESNT NEED TO BE WATERED. IT WAS STILL VERY HEAVY. IM THINKING I MAY HAVE EARWIGS THAT ARE FEASTUNG ON LOWER BRANCHES THAT SHOULDVE BEEN PRUNED. I NOTICED SOME LARFY SHIT THAT KOOKS LIKE NEW SHOOTS WERE CHEWED. LUCKILY THEY DONT SEEM TO BOTHER DEVELOPED BUDS. ESPECIALLY ROCK HARD BUDS. I'LL DO SOME RESEARCH AND DO SOME FORM OF APPLICATION FOR THE PM SPOTS I SAW AND THE SEPTORIA I KNOW IS THERE. IM SUPER GRATEFUL THOUGH. THESE ARE VERY HARD TO GROW STRAINS AND I THINK ILL KNOCK IT OUT OF THE PARK. Also thinking of switching to cha ching shortly on the toasted toffy and the event horizon that's furthest along. 9/11 I Didn't water anything today because things still seemed heavy. I'm noticing the same thing that happened a few years back. Lower secondary or tertiary branches are getting stripped on a couple plants. They never touch the developed buds they want the new shoots. If IT IS ear wigs they are impossible to fight. I put poison down and d.e. around those plantscand we'll see. It could also be rot from dying leaves. I need to treatcsome of the plants with a longer flowering time with plant doctor. I'm going over today to spend a few hours working in the garden. I'll apply something I just don't know WHAT yet. One event horizon looks like it tried to reveg AGAIN which is super weird . I just see a lot of one and 3 finger leaves. It will probably turn out to be great. The other event horizon looks like its going to be incredible. The toasted toffy is getting close too. Temps only reached 62° yesterday. It took FOREVER to shake these plants off. Time to get the leaf blower out. I'm going to bring my trich scope when I go over today. I wanna look at tgat event horizon. Pistols are retracting on the top flowers. This may be a multiple stage harvest. I'll keep this updated. UPDATE: WENT OVER AT FOUR AND WATERED. I MIGHTVE BEEN ABLE TO HOLD OFF UNTIL TOMORROW MORNING BUT I HAVE PLANS EARLY MORNING. I ALSO DEFOLIATED QUITE A BIT. BUDS ARE SWELLING CONSIDERABLY. THE SHERB PIE HAS TURNED COMPLETELY PURPLE. IT HASNT HAD ANY FLOWERS ON IT BUT NOW IT HAS FLOWERS BIGGER THAN A QUARTER! THESE PLANTS ARE VIGEROUSLY FLOWERING. I NEED TO CHECK THE TRICHS ON A COUPLE PLANTS AS THEY DONT HAVE MUCH TIME LEFT. AS I WAS DEFOLIATED I NOTICED THAT SOMWTHING HAD STRIPPED FRESH BUDSITES ON SOME LOWER BRANCHES. IN YEARS PAST THATS ALWAYS BEEN EAR WIGS WHICH ARE IMPISSIBLE TO DEAL WITH. THEY USUALLY DONT TOUCH THE BIG BUDS THOUGH. TJEY LIKE THE FRESY SHOOTS. ILL GO OUT AT NIGHT AND SEE IF THIS IS THE CASE. ITS ONLYVHAPPENING ON A COUPLE PLANTS BUT STILL. THE EVENT HORIZON IN THE MIDDLE IS GROWING DIFFERENT THAN ITS SISTER. YOU CAN TELL THE STRAIN IS THE SAME BUT THIS SEEMED TO REVEG (AGAIN) BECAUSE IM SEEING SMALL FULLY DEVELOPED BUDS THAT I DONT REALLY SEE CONNECTING. CRAZY TRICHS THOUGH. IT WILL BE INTERESTING TO SEE HOW IT COMES OUT. I TREATED THE GMO WITH WPM WITH A QTR GALLON OF K BICARBONATE FOLIAR SPRAY WITH A DROP OF DAWN FOR A SURFICANT. 9/12 Shook everything off and then used the leaf blower to try to better dry them. Weather is lookingvyo be good for the next couple weeks. Perfect finishing weather for my two that are furthest in flower. I may have to do a staged harvest. Some BOTTOM branches on e.h. are FAT and have trichs on trichs. I'll have to use my scope. I'm switching to cha ching next feed for the three furyhest in flower. Maybe four. The sherb pie had NO flowers last week but it's exploding with really compact buds. The whole plant turned purple. I need to be careful of botrytis with this weather. I've been pretty good about leaving and removing any dead or dying leaves. Even the plant in the ten is filling out nice. I have SOMETHING (behaving like earwigs) and eating "fresh" shoots. It's like lollipopping the new growth on a couple plants. I'll becstaying at the grow from now forward so I'll go out tonight and see what I found. The poison I put down seems to be gone. Anyway I'm very grateful for what I've got. I'm update as I go. 9/13 It's sprinkling a half hour trom my grow. I think it's supposed to be nice though. I found some botrytis on two plants. Two are so close to finishing that I need to closely watch them. I don't want botrytis. I applied k bicarb to the middle gmo as I saw a spot of pm. I spent a ton of time defoliating. This cold weather has brought the fade much faster. Trichs are looking good. WENT THROUGH THE PLANTS AND DEFOLIATED A SHIT TON. APPARENTLY THIS EARLY FADE IS NORMAL THIS YEAR. AT LEAST IN ALL MY CANNABIS GROUPS. WENT THROUGH EVERYTJING! STILL HAVE THE MIDDLE EVENT HORIZON I WANT TOO TIE DOWN BUT I DID A LOT OF DEFOLIATION. THIS ALLOWED ME TO FIND A FEW PIECES OF BOTRYTIS. ON MY PLANTS THAT ARE ALMOST DONE. WE HAVE GOOD WEATHER FOR A LITTLE BIT BUT I MAY HAVE REACHED DIMINISHING RETURNS ON A COUPLE. THAT E.V. AND THE TOASTED TOFFY I DONT WANT GETTING WET. THEY ARE TOO DENSE. TRICHS ARE ALL MILKY AND THEYRE SWELLING. IM SLEEPING ON IT BUT IM ALMOST POSITIVE IM GOING TO DO A SELECTIVE HARVEST ON THOSE TWO. IM NOT LETTI G SHIT ROT AND AGTER LOOKING AT THESE UNDER A SCOPE I WOULDS TAKEN THEM YEARS AGO. GMO IS FROSTY AS HELL. EXTREMELY ARONATIC GARDEN. ILL KEEP THIS UPDATED. Decided to hold off feeding and watering. Defoliated a shit ton throughout the day. Around five I noticed that my shittiest GMO with the yellow leaves had a couple dead interior branches. Upon closer inspection it looked like grey mold. A few tiny buds were destroyed but the branch needed to be removed. Jot any big loss but if it's in the shit that doesn't matter than it's around the shit that does. Found info on event horizon flowering time. Middle of September until middle of October. That could be why I'm seeing coke cans on the bottom branches of that phenome. I've got some decisions to make. I mixed up enough water to water in the morning. I'll mix up feed in the morning. Tje garden has gotten a lot of attention lately. I hope it pays off. I'm leaning on a multi staged harvest of the event horizon amd toasted toffy but we'll 9/14 Hurries morning. Mixed water for this morning last night. WATERED AND FED EVERYTHING (BUT TOASTED TOFFY AND EVENT HORIZON #2 DUE TO THEM BEING CHOPPED SOON.) Everything got a gallon of water and a qtr of food. I had to cut a couple small interior secondary branches on my shottiest GMO due to the appearance of grey mold. I also found some botrytis in both the event horizon and toasted toffy that I plan to take the tops of today. I scoped them and I'm planning to do a staged harvest. Trichs are milky with some amber. Everything is blowing up! I'm not sure what's happening but like it previous years there's a couple plants with leaves dieing near bud sites and an overall yellow appearance. Maybe it's late stage septoria. I cant isolate it due to local laws but if I have to I'll deal with it. Nothing else had anything like that. I hace noticed SOMETHING nocturnal that can eat a small branch and leave it bare. Also eat the small newly forming shoots at the bottom of plants. I shouldve taken off ALL the larfy stuff as it draws bugs but I did things a like different with each plant this year. I'm going to go through the plants again today and I'll update what I decide. Chances are the top half of those two plants are coming down. I'll do a video. 9/15 I'll have to add pics and videos tomorrow. Last night I did a final check of the trichs on event horizon #2 and toasted toffy. Everything looked great so I proceeded to do a "wet trim" outside (ill use the leaf blower to clean up) and cut the tops off the plant. I know this injures tje plant but it also makes them go crazy thinking they are dying and the buds and trichs swell. I had one plant last year I got two harvests off and a bunch of fresh frozen for concentrates. I looked this morning and I madecthe right decision. These plants are DONE. I've got another event horizon but it's not quite there yet. I'm going to leave it as long as I can. If the injured plants pick up pm or something (already had septoria) then the flower will be used for extracts or I'll do a Cervantes wash. I imagine concentrates though. One GMO isn't doing as good as the rest. Yesterday I had to cut three branches off due to grey mold on the stalk. If laws allowed it I'd isolate that plant. Luckily since I spend so much time going through the garden I'm able to find this kind of stuff. The GMO'S look wonderful (even the one with some yellow leaves that I cut the branches off) . K bicarb has kept pm at bay so far. This strain has TONS of trichs. It's like trich on trich on trich. I can't wait to try it. It smells amazing. Sherb pie is completely purple with rock hard buds that smell amazing. It's quality over quantity this year. The big one in the 50 (I think red runtz) is swelling more everyday. I'm going to switch to ch ching soon. The plant in the 10 had TOTALLY SUPRISED ME. I've never grown a plant lime this. It started out with dark purple in the middle now buds are swelling and calyxes are EVERYWHERE! This plant is growing extremely fast! You'll see what I mean when I put the pics and the videos up. I'm not going to do the event horizon harvest until I get both plants and all of both plants. It will be a while before I finish the toasted toffy one as well. 9/16 I'm glad I took those plants. Weather is good but plants were soaked thos morning. I need to go out at night and see what is eating new shoots. Flowers are looking great. I need to do another app of k bocarb sometime. I'm suprised the pm has pretty much stayed with that one plant. That two other GMO's flanking it are doing awesome! Purple, sticky stinky. It's got the whole package. The one in the 50 has some huge flowers that won't require much longer. The one invthe 10 has some time left. This is clearly a sativa dominant hybrid. The buds are swelling like crazy. It went from NO buds to having little purple calyxes to flowers that look like cat-tails! I can't wait to see what rhis year brings. Once I get things dry and manicured I'll give you guys a look at how the first stage of the first harvest went. I'm super happy. Spent a large part of this morning shaking plants by handcand removing any dead leaves or anything that could cause rot then I went over them with a leaf blower. I'll need to water tonight I imagine. WATERED AROUND 3:00 PM. MY FAVORITE GMO STARTED DROPPING. WATERED EVERYTHING A GALLON EXCEPT I SPLIT ONE GALLON ON THE PLANTS THAT HAD BEEN CUT. IM EXTREMELY TIRED BUT I NEED TO GO OUT AT NIGHT AND SEE IF I CAN FIND EARWIGS CRAWLING UP THE STALKS. WEATHER STILL LOOKS GOOD. BUDS SWELLING PISTOLS RETRACTING AND MORE AND MORE LEAVES DYING. I CANT BELIEVE THE SIZE OF THAT SATIVA LEANING HYBRID IN THE TEN!

Nothing to say really Most of the upper buds are very dense but the lower ones are still soft Trichomes still clear, i have a shitty magnifier 30x. Smell is strong and now the smell have a more cannabis smell mixed with blueberry

This week was a lot of fun! I can see the circle that I want starting to form although I know it may not work out exactly how I want. I know these plants do their own thing and you can only do so much.

Great strain to run. I’ll be adding more pictures of dried products and possibly extraction videos in a couple weeks once it’s all ready ;)

11-24 Going smoothly starting to frost up LAMFER #1 and #3 is behind MELLO YELLO she took off fixed herself and is becoming a beautiful ass plant 33 inches so far and frosting up and getting fatter by the day im a week are so behind on the other 2 3 different phenos this round all are 100% different 1300 ppms total 6.0 ph a gallon a day between these 3 alone🔥🔥🔥🔥🍇🍇🍇🍇🍇🍇🍇🍇🍇🍇👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌🏆🏆🏆🏆🏆⛽⛽⛽⛽⛽⛽⛽⛽

At the end of the second week of bloom the Dough Boy feminised is doing well with no signs of deficiency. Her leaves are a stable green the stem is a healthy pale green and she has grown a stable 8cm. There’s signs of bloom with white stigmas appearing and she will receive feeding as required. Caution is needed until the lady consumes more! The Dough Boy feminised stands at approximately 58cm ta

Começando a floraçao. As luzes foram trocadas para uma CFL 200W 8k. Ela ira terminar de crescer no modo de floraçao e ira acompanhar sua irma nesta jornada ( ver outro diario )

Christmas Holidays! ---------FOLLOW MY INSTAGRAM FOR MORE CONTENT @ HOMEGROWNCANNABIS420 Dec 24th - Day 68 - Cut Gimli - Completely Harvested Gimli based on Trichome colour and timing with the Holidays - The amount final amount will be updated once the bud is dried *****UPDATE****** Gimli final count is 33grams Dec 25th - Dec 27th - Away for Holidays Dec 28th - Harvested Gimpy! - Gimpy started out looking rough but ended up producing the most bud so far. Have not gotten final weight for it yet, still drying *******update - Gimpy produced 52g****** Dec 29th - More Nutes - Add a small amount of bloom to watering today to maybe help encourage the bud to fill out. Any thoughts?? Jan 1st - End of Week 10 - Cheetos and Disco seem to be developing still - Maybe another week before I Harvest them, unsure why they are so far behind

Hey fellow green thumbs! 🌿💚 The day has finally come—our Auto Northern Dragon Fuel from Super Sativa Seed Club has been harvested! After an exciting journey, we’re thrilled to share the details of this incredible plant’s final stage. Let’s dive into the harvest report! 🌟 Harvest Details: Day 75: Harvest Day • Harvest Date: Day 75 • Harvest Method: Our beautiful Auto Northern Dragon Fuel was harvested yesterday. After weeks of careful nurturing, the time was right to bring in this amazing plant. 🌿🌼 • Preparation: Before hanging, we meticulously cleaned the plant, removing all leaves without trichomes to ensure a smooth drying process and to enhance the quality of the final product. 🌿✂️ Current Drying Process: • Method: The entire plant is now hanging upside down to dry. This method helps maintain moisture levels within the buds, allowing for a slower and more even drying process. 🌿🔄 • Environment: • Temperature: 18-22°C (65-72°F) • Humidity: 50-60% Maintaining these conditions is crucial for achieving a perfect dry and preserving the plant’s aromatic and flavorful profile. 🌡️💧 🌟 Plant and Bud Characteristics: Auto Northern Dragon Fuel: • Bud Structure: Dense and sticky, with an impressive trichome coverage. The buds are beautifully formed, showcasing the robust genetics of this strain. • Aroma: Even in the drying phase, the rich and potent aroma is unmistakable. Expect a delightful scent that hints at the powerful experience to come. • Trichomes: A thick layer of trichomes covers the buds, promising a potent final product with a great flavor profile. 🌿✨ 🌟 Care Tips: • Drying Process: Patience is key. Allowing the plant to dry slowly will enhance the final quality, preserving both flavor and potency. Ensure good airflow around the hanging plant to prevent mold and mildew. 🌬️💧 • Trimming: Once the drying process is complete (typically 10-14 days), it will be time to trim the buds. This is where we’ll shape the final product and get it ready for curing. ✂️🌿 • Curing: After trimming, curing the buds in jars for at least 2-4 weeks will further enhance the flavor and smoothness. This final step is essential for achieving the best possible smoking experience. 🍁 🌟 Genetics Spotlight: Auto Northern Dragon Fuel: • Characteristics: Known for its robust structure and dense buds, this strain has shown remarkable resilience and impressive bud development throughout the grow. The final product promises to be potent and flavorful, thanks to the thick trichome coverage and rich aroma. • Harvest Expectations: High-quality buds with a strong aroma and potent effects. The slow drying process will ensure the best possible preservation of cannabinoids and terpenes. 🌍🌿 Fun Fact: Did you know? 🌿✨ Drying the entire plant slowly helps retain more terpenes, which are responsible for the plant’s aroma and flavor. This method also helps preserve the potency and quality of the buds, resulting in a smoother and more enjoyable experience. For all the in-depth action and detailed explanations, head over to my YouTube channel! 🎥✨ I’m sharing all the tips, tricks, and step-by-step guides to help you get the best results from your grow. This week’s harvest has been particularly exciting, and there’s so much more to explore and learn together! 👉 Join me on YouTube Link in my profile 👈 🌟 Conclusion: Harvesting Auto Northern Dragon Fuel at Day 75 has been a rewarding experience. With the plant now drying, we’re eagerly awaiting the final product. Stay tuned for updates on the drying, trimming, and curing process, and get ready for a high-quality harvest! Happy growing, and see you next time! 🌿💚✨ #SuperSativaSeedClub #HarvestReport #NorthernDragonFuel #PlantMagic #GardeningJoy #NatureLovers #PlantPower #InspireGrow #YouTubeJourney

Cherry Poppers 4 every weed-lover

They look good so far. I mixed a teaspoon of mega crop into the bottom half of soil prior to planting these babies hope things work out.

Hallo zusammen 🤙. Sie wächst sehr schön und macht keine Probleme. Rabattcode für den BIOTABS-Webshop https://biotabs.nl/en/shop/ GDBT420, damit erhalten Sie 15 Prozent

Those were the last ones. So I'm done with my second grow. I should have left out the two Hulk Berries here completely. I had this space problem anyway and, as I said, they were seeds from a hermaphrodite/crossed grow. They have the most seeds. I think I'll make oil out of this. Let's see. My conclusion: a great pleasure to be here. Many thanks to everyone for help, encouragement and criticism. I'll bother you some more. Nice weekend @all