they are all growing great and starting to get taller. a very robust plant and very easy to grow and maintain. they are getiing 1/2 the recommeneded dose of nutrients 3 times a week

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

June 21st - they are doing great with the newa ac unit. temps are saying around 25-26. They are just growing away. I decided this week I would swap there nutrients for transition to flower. I watered them today with the first mix of the recommended transition to flower. June 22nd - Still growing away, they seem to be picking up growth quite a bit now! June 23rd - Starting to explode with growth! Everything looks healthy. I have turned the lights up to about 85% now. Gave them a feeding today, again with the transition to flower recommendation. June 24th - Still growing like crazy. They are on a 12/12 schedule and it looks like they're on there way to flower! Junes 25th - Lots of growth in the last 5 days. They have perked up a ton, grown a ton of fan leafs and its almost time to do some more lst or defoliation. Gave them another feeding today. I have decided to just feed with every watering as it is the manufactures recommendation. June 26th - Took the girls out and did some LST on them again as they were starting to become pretty uneven. Unfortunately I only took pictures/videos of the one plant. You can definitely see the growth since the start of this week. They seem to be getting pretty dry by the morning so I have been feeding roughly every 24-36 hours making sure not to overwater. June 27th -They popped back up overnight and are just growing away. Another watering today. Roughly 3L per plant. Again making sure not to overwater.

Nice purple colour, Easy to grow, compact buds, cold resistant. But second pheno made a lot of seeds 😓 I dont recommend ThSeeds because the quality isnt that good and I feel like I wasted money and time with that strain. The smell isnt that insane

¡Primera semana y seguimos con buena positividad! Las plántulas ya empiezan a crecer y a abrirse, se ven fuertes y ojalá sigan así. Todavía están dentro del propagador para mantener una buena humedad, ya que en esta etapa las raíces apenas están formándose. La mayor parte del agua la absorben por las hojas, así que no se necesita tanto riego, sino más bien mantener alta la humedad en estas primeras semanas.

Esos fumetillas, que actualizo esas bombas de candy caramelo 💣 del banco Zambezaseeds. Y es que ya no les queda nada, estoy pensando en cortarlas con varios días de diferencia, pero ya veremos eso aún está por decidir. La cuestión es que mirar lo sanas que han llegado hasta el final y a sido Gracias al led que me mando mars hydro. Esta semana no se echo nada de productos y hasta el corte es lo que seguiré haciendo, con cada riego se alimente la planta con nutrientes o no se tiene que calibrar el ph, mantener la humedad por debajo del 50% Y la temperatura mantenerla entre 22/26 grados. La flor no es muy grande pero está compacta, tiene bien de resina, el olor es un olor dulce como a chicle de fresa. Muy peculiar y llamativo. Hasta aquí todo lo de esta semana, disfruten los vídeos y muy buenos humos gente

Week 4 and I’m really looking forward to harvest now, density on the peyote it’s quite firm to to the touch which is great as I am only using a 250w HPS. Starting a bit of LST to the taller one; was getting too close to the light for my liking. And some also light defoliation here and there on both to help the light penetrate to the lower buds. The LSD has made a comeback and is starting to look just as the frosty as the other girls but still doesn’t look as though it will yield the same, that said I think it still has a bit more work to do. Week 5 coming up... until then

Got super nice stuff. As rly got eight shooters (110 gr/1plant). Easy to grow, good reaction for scrog, defoliation with big harvest. Will grow this stuff again.

Well it’s the beginning of week three of flower for my girls. They look and smell magnificent. They all have flowers and the pistoles are bright white. I need to defoliate them again I think. And I was advised I should remove all the lower flowers, all the ones hiding and not getting much light. Will it be ok to just let them grow and just keep removing the larger fan leaves that clog up light getting to the lower parts of the canopy? Regardless of stem size currently my branches each have 5 or more flowers on them. Will the returns from taking away those lower flowers be worth it to the tops ? Will trimming flowers off my girls at this stage in their life hurt them? I feel like I should let them be and just pull the leaves that clog up light dispersion. I need to feed them this week. I really think the girl a like the emerald harvest nutrients, I had followed their portion chart up till the slight burn then cut back on the scale a bit. Instead of feeding for six plant I’ve been feeding for four with the same amount of water. I’m very happy and excited for this grow, this has been quite the learning experience for me. I hope everyone’s grows are goin well and wish you all a great harvest.. Oct 19. Heavy defoliation and small flowers pulled from all of the girls. Hopefully they dont take it hard and recover well. I should be able to let them go and not worry too much about smaller flowers taking away from bigger ones now. My hands smell amazing. I hope these girls turn out best as they can now.

4ème semaine de floraison. Cette dame ce porte a merveille ☠️☠️💀 irrigation tous les 3 jours environ 6L, 12L/Semaine.

So this lady is almost ready quite few of the trichomes are starting to be milky ,so another 1-2 weeks and will start flushing smells rather gassy and stacking up nicely now 💪💪💪

Ok so I'm really impressed with this autoflower. It's a monster in my opinion. I really pushed it hard for a day or two during a heat wave. Temps were 88F, I gave it a Full dose of PK booster ( LiquidKool Bloom ) and some Raw Citrus. Plant suck the bucket DOWN FAST. I thought alright its liking it. It did but it also burned it pretty badly. So I watered it down and got a cal-mag deficiency lol. Then during the heat wave I was being to brave and left to work for 12 hours with high temperatures and the plant tops at about 2 and a half feet when its recommended 3 feet. Totally my fault. But man oh man, she took all of it pretty well in my opinion. She's a little burnt but the FROST on the buds are insane outside the tent lights. It hasn't even had 1 night of sleep its entire life. 8/15 Checked ppm and pH, felt brave and added full dose PK. 8/16 Checked ppm and pH, pH remained steady at 5.9, ppm climbed to 1200. I let it run. 8/17 Checked ppm and pH, pH remained steady at 5.9, ppm climbed to 1400 and the bucket was empty. I knew I'd see burned tips soon. Added plain pH water, dropped to 800ppm. Left it to drink water. 8/18 Checked ppm and pH, tips showing burn but its definitely swelling, was it worth it? So far I'm thinking yes. Definitely yes. Ppm 950, pH 6.0 8/19 Checked ppm and pH, ppm at 1100, pH at 6.2 I watered it down with plain pH water to 700. I was feeling brave again, added more sweetener and PK booster. Ppm at 900. ( I made a mistake over the last 2 days and forgot to add cal-mag) 8/20 Checked ppm and pH, ppm went down to 800, pH at 6.2. Made no adjustments just added Cal-mag. I already had a slight deficiency going but not adding ANY to a plant that drinks 2 gallons a day was a huge mistake. It got a lot of brown patches and yellow but not everywhere. I also realized it was to close to the CMH. Plus a heat wave sent my temp to 88F while I was at work, not sure how long. I think I got a little bit of foxtail going on the very top tips. Adjusted temperature and raised light as high as I could. 8/21 Checked ppm and pH. This plant just eats and drinks to much. None of my other plants come close to this one. I have to check it everyday. My others can go up to 3 days untouched. This monster is impressive. I would reccomend this autoflower to anyone, but it says it's an intermediate grow level. It's been super easy for me. Really hope this monster finishes soon. All trichromes are clear. Still got awhile to go. 8/22 Checked ppm and pH 8/23 Checked ppm and pH 8/24 Checked ppm and pH 8/25 Checked ppm and pH 8/26 Checked ppm and pH 8/27 Checked ppm and pH

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Very happy with progress so far. Very straightforward with the top dressing and watering in with tap water left out for chlorine evaporation and pH 6.5-6.8. Making nutrient additions weekly. Watering as needed. Thinking about when I want to begin LST.

This week I Supercrop all the plants and spred them out over both lights. One more week of Veg and they are ready to explode Check me out on Instagram @growmorestressless

Day 28: I got home from 10 days of holidays and these girls had cruised along as if I had been there with them the whole time. They are very happy, especially the middle one. The small one on the right has always been small, is what it is. She could be a stack little shorty. Time will tell. I did a feed today, top dressed according to Gaia Green at 15 ml/ gal of media which should last approx 2 weeks. I also added a bit more 444 just to make sure there’s enough N during this stretch phase. All 3 have pistols showing and are starting to flower. I was unable to train as much as I’d have liked but is what it is. Sometimes the more indica strains I’ve done are negatively effected by topping and excess training. I removed a couple huge fans that were shading too much of the plant. I also am trying a “super cropping” of top fans to get them out of the way but still save them as a nute source if they need. We’ll see how it goes. The Vipar spectra xs2000 is killling it as usual. As I’ve said 50 times it’s super powerful and I’ve had to raise the light above recommended height as I started to see leaf edge curl and light stress. No problem at all tho, better too powerful and raise it than too weak and have loose buds. I did a micro top just to stop excessive apical meristem stretch and leaving all the other lower branches too low for effective light absorption or burn on the top cola. Happy Growing 🌱

d.50 a few spots appeared on the leafs. gave a 10 ml dose of bio p k and waiting a week before giving a dose of orgatrex and bactrex edit: d.50 i also gave 0.5 ml of calmag from Biobizz edit d.53 will i be giving her the orgatrex and bactrex treatment ✌️🌞 d.53 she got 20 ml orgatrex, 1g of bactrex and 0.5 ml of biobizz calmag d.54 added scrog and did lst with clips to even out the height and space… still need to adjust it.