My permanent marker plants are looking really interesting! The short and stocky one with the purple leaves is super vibrant. I love that pop of color against the green of the other plants. It's a little different from the taller plant, which has this really cool stacked-up look to it. I'm curious to see if those stacked-up leaves will change color too. The past few weeks have been so beautiful, watching the plants grow and change. It's amazing how something so small and fragile can turn into something so strong and vibrant. Now that they're getting ready to bloom, it feels a little bittersweet. I'm so excited to see the finished product, but I'll definitely miss having them around while they're growing.

Will update over time - have another three on the go at various stages.

Strain has very close node spacing

We have day1 of Week 7 and i think in 2 Week is Harvest Day. They look all very good and perform strong. Only disapointment is that the Gorilla Fast need 8-9Weeks and not 6. but the Quality is strong. Wir haben Tag 1 von Woche 7 der Blüte. Alles läuft wie es soll schade das die Gorilla fast nicht in 6 Wochen fertig wird aber die Qualität passt und ist perfekt. In 1-2 Werden alle geerntet. Letzte Woche in der gedüngt wird und die allerletzte Woche wird mit Ph reguliertem Wasser gegossen aber wenig und 1 Tag später als normal.

Start week 11

one plant Corn bread.. is 17 months old.. the rest are 2-two months old. first week of documentation. start of 3rd week of flowering..16th day of flowering having an insect problem. showered plants with neem oil and soap need to get rid of mites and aphids need to better the feeding regimen need to prune and re arrange plants -----as for the room i need to cut two more 6' holes in central duct to place exhausts for third and fourth flowering lights and carbon filters. hook up portable a/c in storage room..use plastic wrap to seal in room .. exhaust heat from a/c out of seconadry window and make n intake from the bottom of the wall with the doorplace air filter over hole...collect water from a/c dripping

Everything going as planned. Will take more pictures soon.day 85(getting phatter)

Heeeey all! Sorry for the extremely slow update! The past few weeks have been crazy for me! 😱 This week I made a lot of defoliation and decided to be somewhat greedy. I'll let the plants grow a bit more so they'll stretch well during flower! So while I defoliate I'll allow the plants to recover properly! 💪 Near the end of the week I also made another mistake with Roko (poor baby! 😭). I broke another of the stems (the one that divided the plant in two, right in the middle) and I feared the worst! But so far the plant kept growing without any problems. I'm still thinking a name for my 4th baby, she has surprised me greatly and I didn't notice how many new branches had grown until I defoliated her and I'm sure she'll deliver some great buds! 😍 Anyway everyone, this is all for now. Thanks for reading this journal and soon I'll update the next week! 😃

- As you will see in the time laps , I had to make some repairs to the strip lighting in the space bucket this week. I'm really glad this happened now and not in the flowering stage and i think everything is as ready as it could be for the switch. - She continued to grow a lot this week, shes also getting a lot more thirsty. - Fed her 2 litres of nutrients twice and in between gave her some plain rainwater to combat the nute burn. - I decided that 18 tops was getting to cramped in the space bucket so I took 3 cuttings for clones. So then there were 15. - At the end of the week I gave her a good flush with plain water in preparation for switching to flower nutrients tomorrow. - Super excited to switch to flower! Cant wait to see what she can produce.

Yellow butterfly came to see me the other day; that was nice. Starting to show signs of stress on the odd leaf, localized isolated blips, blemishes, who said growing up was going to be easy! Smaller leaves have less surface area for stomata to occupy, so the stomata are packed more densely to maintain adequate gas exchange. Smaller leaves might have higher stomatal density to compensate for their smaller size, potentially maximizing carbon uptake and minimizing water loss. Environmental conditions like light intensity and water availability can influence stomatal density, and these factors can affect leaf size as well. Leaf development involves cell division and expansion, and stomatal differentiation is sensitive to these processes. In essence, the smaller leaf size can lead to a higher stomatal density due to the constraints of available space and the need to optimize gas exchange for photosynthesis and transpiration. In the long term, UV-B radiation can lead to more complex changes in stomatal morphology, including effects on both stomatal density and size, potentially impacting carbon sequestration and water use. In essence, UV-B can be a double-edged sword for stomata: It can induce stomatal closure and potentially reduce stomatal size, but it may also trigger an increase in stomatal density as a compensatory mechanism. It is generally more efficient for gas exchange to have smaller leaves with a higher stomatal density, rather than large leaves with lower stomatal density. This is because smaller stomata can facilitate faster gas exchange due to shorter diffusion pathways, even though they may have the same total pore area as fewer, larger stomata. Leaf size tends to decrease in colder climates to reduce heat loss, while larger leaves are more common in warmer, humid environments. Plants in arid regions often develop smaller leaves with a thicker cuticle and/or hairs to minimize water loss through transpiration. Conversely, plants in wet environments may have larger leaves and drip tips to facilitate water runoff. Leaf size and shape can vary based on light availability. For example, leaves in shaded areas may be larger and thinner to maximize light absorption. Leaf mass per area (LMA) can be higher in stressful environments with limited nutrients, indicating a greater investment in structural components for protection and critical resource conservation. Wind speed, humidity, and soil conditions can also influence leaf morphology, leading to variations in leaf shape, size, and surface characteristics. Small leaves: Reduce water loss in arid or cold climates. Environmental conditions significantly affect gene expression in plants. Plants are sessile organisms, meaning they cannot move to escape unfavorable conditions, so they rely on gene expression to adapt to their surroundings. Environmental factors like light, temperature, water, and nutrient availability can trigger changes in gene expression, allowing plants to respond to and survive in diverse environments. Depending on the environment a young seedling encounters, the developmental program following seed germination could be skotomorphogenesis in the dark or photomorphogenesis in the light. Light signals are interpreted by a repertoire of photoreceptors followed by sophisticated gene expression networks, eventually resulting in developmental changes. The expression and functions of photoreceptors and key signaling molecules are highly coordinated and regulated at multiple levels of the central dogma in molecular biology. Light activates gene expression through the actions of positive transcriptional regulators and the relaxation of chromatin by histone acetylation. Small regulatory RNAs help attenuate the expression of light-responsive genes. Alternative splicing, protein phosphorylation/dephosphorylation, the formation of diverse transcriptional complexes, and selective protein degradation all contribute to proteome diversity and change the functions of individual proteins. Photomorphogenesis, the light-driven developmental changes in plants, significantly impacts gene expression. It involves a cascade of events where light signals, perceived by photoreceptors, trigger changes in gene expression patterns, ultimately leading to the development of a plant in response to its light environment. Genes are expressed, not dictated! While having the potential to encode proteins, genes are not automatically and constantly active. Instead, their expression (the process of turning them into proteins) is carefully regulated by the cell, responding to internal and external signals. This means that genes can be "turned on" or "turned off," and the level of expression can be adjusted, depending on the cell's needs and the surrounding environment. In plants, genes are not simply "on" or "off" but rather their expression is carefully regulated based on various factors, including the cell type, developmental stage, and environmental conditions. This means that while all cells in a plant contain the same genetic information (the same genes), different cells will express different subsets of those genes at different times. This regulation is crucial for the proper functioning and development of the plant. When a green plant is exposed to red light, much of the red light is absorbed, but some is also reflected back. The reflected red light, along with any blue light reflected from other parts of the plant, can be perceived by our eyes as purple. Carotenoids absorb light in blue-green region of the visible spectrum, complementing chlorophyll's absorption in the red region. They safeguard the photosynthetic machinery from excessive light by activating singlet oxygen, an oxidant formed during photosynthesis. Carotenoids also quench triplet chlorophyll, which can negatively affect photosynthesis, and scavenge reactive oxygen species (ROS) that can damage cellular proteins. Additionally, carotenoid derivatives signal plant development and responses to environmental cues. They serve as precursors for the biosynthesis of phytohormones such as abscisic acid () and strigolactones (SLs). These pigments are responsible for the orange, red, and yellow hues of fruits and vegetables, while acting as free scavengers to protect plants during photosynthesis. Singlet oxygen (¹O₂) is an electronically excited state of molecular oxygen (O₂). Singlet oxygen is produced as a byproduct during photosynthesis, primarily within the photosystem II (PSII) reaction center and light-harvesting antenna complex. This occurs when excess energy from excited chlorophyll molecules is transferred to molecular oxygen. While singlet oxygen can cause oxidative damage, plants have mechanisms to manage its production and mitigate its harmful effects. Singlet oxygen (¹O₂) is considered a reactive oxygen species (ROS). It's a form of oxygen with higher energy and reactivity compared to the more common triplet oxygen found in its ground state. Singlet oxygen is generated both in biological systems, such as during photosynthesis in plants, and in cellular processes, and through chemical and photochemical reactions. While singlet oxygen is a ROS, it's important to note that it differs from other ROS like superoxide (O₂⁻), hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂), and hydroxyl radicals (OH) in its formation, reactivity, and specific biological roles. Non-photochemical quenching (NPQ) protects plants from damage caused by reactive oxygen species (ROS) by dissipating excess light energy as heat. This process reduces the overexcitation of photosynthetic pigments, which can lead to the production of ROS, thus mitigating the potential for photodamage. Zeaxanthin, a carotenoid pigment, plays a crucial role in photoprotection in plants by both enhancing non-photochemical quenching (NPQ) and scavenging reactive oxygen species (ROS). In high-light conditions, zeaxanthin is synthesized from violaxanthin through the xanthophyll cycle, and this zeaxanthin then facilitates heat dissipation of excess light energy (NPQ) and quenches harmful ROS. The Issue of Singlet Oxygen!! ROS Formation: Blue light, with its higher energy photons, can promote the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), including singlet oxygen, within the plant. Potential Damage: High levels of ROS can damage cellular components, including proteins, lipids, and DNA, potentially impacting plant health and productivity. Balancing Act: A balanced spectrum of light, including both blue and red light, is crucial for mitigating the harmful effects of excessive blue light and promoting optimal plant growth and stress tolerance. The Importance of Red Light: Red light (especially far-red) can help to mitigate the negative effects of excessive blue light by: Balancing the Photoreceptor Response: Red light can influence the activity of photoreceptors like phytochrome, which are involved in regulating plant responses to different light wavelengths. Enhancing Antioxidant Production: Red and blue light can stimulate the production of antioxidants, which help to neutralize ROS and protect the plant from oxidative damage. Optimizing Photosynthesis: Red light is efficiently used in photosynthesis, and its combination with blue light can lead to increased photosynthetic efficiency and biomass production. In controlled environments like greenhouses and vertical farms, optimizing the ratio of blue and red light is a key strategy for promoting healthy plant growth and yield. Understanding the interplay between blue light signaling, ROS production, and antioxidant defense mechanisms can inform breeding programs and biotechnological interventions aimed at improving plant stress resistance. In summary, while blue light is essential for plant development and photosynthesis, it's crucial to balance it with other light wavelengths, particularly red light, to prevent excessive ROS formation and promote overall plant health. Oxidative damage in plants occurs when there's an imbalance between the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and the plant's ability to neutralize them, leading to cellular damage. This imbalance, known as oxidative stress, can result from various environmental stressors, affecting plant growth, development, and overall productivity. Causes of Oxidative Damage: Abiotic stresses: These include extreme temperatures (heat and cold), drought, salinity, heavy metal toxicity, and excessive light. Biotic stresses: Pathogen attacks and insect infestations can also trigger oxidative stress. Metabolic processes: Normal cellular activities, particularly in chloroplasts, mitochondria, and peroxisomes, can generate ROS as byproducts. Certain chlorophyll biosynthesis intermediates can produce singlet oxygen (1O2), a potent ROS, leading to oxidative damage. ROS can damage lipids (lipid peroxidation), proteins, carbohydrates, and nucleic acids (DNA). Oxidative stress can compromise the integrity of cell membranes, affecting their function and permeability. Oxidative damage can interfere with essential cellular functions, including photosynthesis, respiration, and signal transduction. In severe cases, oxidative stress can trigger programmed cell death (apoptosis). Oxidative damage can lead to stunted growth, reduced biomass, and lower crop yields. Plants have evolved intricate antioxidant defense systems to counteract oxidative stress. These include: Enzymes like superoxide dismutase (SOD), catalase (CAT), and various peroxidases scavenge ROS and neutralize their damaging effects. Antioxidant molecules like glutathione, ascorbic acid (vitamin C), C60 fullerene, and carotenoids directly neutralize ROS. Developing plant varieties with gene expression focused on enhanced antioxidant capacity and stress tolerance is crucial. Optimizing irrigation, fertilization, and other management practices can help minimize stress and oxidative damage. Applying antioxidant compounds or elicitors can help plants cope with oxidative stress. Introducing genes for enhanced antioxidant enzymes or stress-related proteins over generations. Phytohormones, also known as plant hormones, are a group of naturally occurring organic compounds that regulate plant growth, development, and various physiological processes. The five major classes of phytohormones are: auxins, gibberellins, cytokinins, ethylene, and abscisic acid. In addition to these, other phytohormones like brassinosteroids, jasmonates, and salicylates also play significant roles. Here's a breakdown of the key phytohormones: Auxins: Primarily involved in cell elongation, root initiation, and apical dominance. Gibberellins: Promote stem elongation, seed germination, and flowering. Cytokinins: Stimulate cell division and differentiation, and delay leaf senescence. Ethylene: Regulates fruit ripening, leaf abscission, and senescence. Abscisic acid (ABA): Plays a role in seed dormancy, stomatal closure, and stress responses. Brassinosteroids: Involved in cell elongation, division, and stress responses. Jasmonates: Regulate plant defense against pathogens and herbivores, as well as other processes. Salicylic acid: Plays a role in plant defense against pathogens. 1. Red and Far-Red Light (Phytochromes): Red light: Primarily activates the phytochrome system, converting it to its active form (Pfr), which promotes processes like stem elongation and flowering. Far-red light: Inhibits the phytochrome system by converting the active Pfr form back to the inactive Pr form. This can trigger shade avoidance responses and inhibit germination. Phytohormones: Red and far-red light regulate phytohormones like auxin and gibberellins, which are involved in stem elongation and other growth processes. 2. Blue Light (Cryptochromes and Phototropins): Blue light: Activates cryptochromes and phototropins, which are involved in various processes like stomatal opening, seedling de-etiolation, and phototropism (growth towards light). Phytohormones: Blue light affects auxin levels, influencing stem growth, and also impacts other phytohormones involved in these processes. Example: Blue light can promote vegetative growth and can interact with red light to promote flowering. 3. UV-B Light (UV-B Receptors): UV-B light: Perceived by UVR8 receptors, it can affect plant growth and development and has roles in stress responses, like UV protection. Phytohormones: UV-B light can influence phytohormones involved in stress responses, potentially affecting growth and development. 4. Other Colors: Green light: Plants are generally less sensitive to green light, as chlorophyll reflects it. Other wavelengths: While less studied, other wavelengths can also influence plant growth and development through interactions with different photoreceptors and phytohormones. Key Points: Cross-Signaling: Plants often experience a mix of light wavelengths, leading to complex interactions between different photoreceptors and phytohormones. Species Variability: The precise effects of light color on phytohormones can vary between different plant species. Hormonal Interactions: Phytohormones don't act in isolation; their interactions and interplay with other phytohormones and environmental signals are critical for plant responses. The spectral ratio of light (the composition of different colors of light) significantly influences a plant's hormonal balance. Different wavelengths of light are perceived by specific photoreceptors in plants, which in turn regulate the production and activity of various plant hormones (phytohormones). These hormones then control a wide range of developmental processes.

Our Fruit Punch Automatic are both doing great. Remember that we are growing 1 Plant worked with the techniques and one left to grow without cutting techniques to preserve its speed. In this diary we find the plant that is growing straight, just a little defoliation. I exaggerated with the Nitrogen a little and we have some yellow tips, we will use it to explain the problems on Zamnesia, but I did not do it on purpose, it remains a small mistake that if possible is to be avoided. Small if it does not go much further now the plant is taking bloom but up to a couple of days before the photos it took ALga Grow. The comparison is the salt of the experience so the plant in the other diary will be worked very differently go and see it to compare them. We have started the Plagron fertilization program, we are in 100% organic configuration, the soil is recycled Promix + 1/3 fresh soil + 10% Perlite + RQS Mycorrhiza Mix (4 g in the mix, 1 g under the small fiber pot). We are administering // 1 ml/l Power Roots - 1 ml/l Pure Zym - 1 ml/l Sugar Royal - 3 ml/l Alga Grow We have sprayed Vita Race Foliare 3 ml/l. https://plagron.com/en The doubts about the compatibility between Pure Zym and mycorrhizae have been dispelled, they can get along according to Plagron experts. If someone tells you that enzymes eat mycorrhizae, which in principle may seem possible, explain to them that it is not true. https://www.royalqueenseeds.it/growing/452-easy-roots-mix-di-micorrhize.html One of the best in recent years with a very high THC level -------------------------------------------------------- https://www.zamnesia.io/en/10965-zamnesia-seeds-fruit-punch-automatic.html Brief description of Zamnesia // Sativa strains are very rewarding to grow, but their long flowering times and their greater susceptibility to disease and overfertilization can make them a little more difficult to manage. Also, their imposing heights are less suitable for indoor use and can attract unwanted attention if grown outdoors. However, with the arrival of Fruit Punch Automatic, growing sativa strains at home just got a whole lot easier. Combining Skunk #1, Haze and ruderalis, Fruit Punch Auto is 70% sativa dominant and produces up to 21% THC, along with a delicious blend of terpenes. Plus, it can be grown indoors, outdoors and in greenhouses. With their bright green hues, golden pistils and thick layer of resin, Fruit Punch Auto buds always have a great appeal. When you smoke her, you will be amazed by her flavours, aromas and effects! As the name suggests, Fruit Punch Automatic boasts delicious tropical aromas reminiscent of banana, pineapple, mango and citrus. When you open the jars you will feel like you are in a tropical cocktail bar on an exotic beach. Fruit Punch Auto will delight your palate with pungent fruity notes followed by light notes of Skunk and spice on the exhale. Within minutes of your first hit, this potent sativa will stimulate your mind, leaving you in an energetic and carefree state, ideal for morning or daytime sessions, as well as social settings or creative pursuits. You can find the entire world of growing on Zamnesia and more, just take a look at the site and you will find "all the best that nature has to offer" in various shapes and colors. The new strains are fantastic and the old ones are no exception... The new strains are great and the old ones are no exception... p.s. no Hermaphrodites yet, growers, can you say the same? --- // www.zamnesia.com

7/25 Did two videos this morning. One where I was only going to water the 3 gallons I had mixed up but it's going to be very hot this week. Didn't want to make the same mistake as last time so I watered everything AT LEAST A GALLON. I need to bump up the volume during these really hot, humid days abd it doesn't get worse then this. Things are getting dusty. Found an inch worm and some minor pest damage. Once it cools down ill spray something. Also noticing small nitrogen deficiency that takes a leaf and moves up the plant a little bit. I'm going to need to start nutes this week. I'll keep this updated. Went back over around one and everything was looking fantastic! Took a few pictures and defoliated a few leaves. UPDATE: I GOT A MESSAGE FROM DAD SAYING MY PLANTS LOOKED DROOPY. I HADNT MADE IT OVER FOR MY NIGHTLY INSPECTION BUT HAVING WATERED YESTERDAY I WAS THINKIBG OF SKIPPING IT. GOT THERE AND SAW THE FIRST 10TH PLANET DROOPY. ALL THE TENTH PLANETS LOOK RELATIVELY THE SAME BUT ONE OF THEM IS MY "CANARY IM A COAL MINE" AS IT DROOPS WAY BEFORE THE OTHERS. THE TWO BLUE CHEESES IN 20S THAT DRY OUT FASTER GOT TWO GALLONS AS DID MY 10TH PLANET CANARY AND MY BIG BLUE IN THE 50. ITS BEEN 90S AND SUNSHINE AND ITS ONLY GOING TO GET HOTTER. I HAVE THINGS GOING ON IN THE MORNING SO I WONT HE ABLE TO WATER. I NOTICED MORE NITROGEN DEFICIENCY RISING IN THE BLUECHEESE THAT DRINKS ALL THE WATER. OBVIOUSLY ILL NEED TO ADD NUTES SOONER THAB LATER CONSIDERING IM IN FLOWER BUT THE PLANTS ARE STILL A NICE GREEN AMD ONLY LOSING VERY FEW LEAVES. I ACTUALLY SAW A COUPKE BURNT LEAF TIPS ON A COUPKE PLANTS AFTER I WATERED WITH THE KELP ME/YOU. THIS SOIL IS AWESOME. WHAT IS THIS? WEEK 16 AND STILL GOING STRONG. WHEN I DO DECIDE TO START NUTES ILL TEST IT ON THAT BLUE CHEESE THATS FURTHER IN SENESCENCE. I TOOK A QUICK VIDEO ILL UPLOAD TOMORROW. 7/26 Had a bear come around my cage and getting into out bird feeders. Bent the iron shelerds hook all the way to the ground! Getting AMMONIA now to try and keep him away. Bags were heavy this morning but it's going to be really hot again. It'll be on the 90s the next few days so I need to be very careful. After we get through this I'll do an app of BT. Garden looks fantastic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lants are looking FANTASTIC this morning. Soil is still damp this morning and bags are heavy as hell. They look super happy. Obviously my watering situation depends on the weather. Today and tomorrow are supposed to be the hottest days so I wanted to make sure the plants had sufficient water before this. I'll let them dry out totally before watering again. There's another four lined plant big somewhere that sat there and destroyed another leaf. I'm AT LEAST spraying with BT after this heat wave. Supposed to rain a little today with thunderstorms. I haven't got my supports up yet but if i need to I coukd throw my tarps up real quick. Don't think I'll need to though. These are some tough freaking plants and I am super proud of how they've turned out thus far. UPDATE: WENT BACK OVER AND RE APPLIED BLEECH TO THE RAGS AND ON THE PERIMETER OF MY CAGE. I TACKED A FEW MORE DRYER SHEETS UP. REASON I DID THIS WAS BECAUSE WEVE BEEN GETTING HORRIBLE THUNDER STORMS WITH TORRENTIAL RAIN. THE WEATHER MAN HAD BEEN WRONG SEVERAL TIMES WARNING OF THUNDER STORMS AND WE WOULDNT GET SHIT. THIS TIME IT WAS PRETTY BAD. TOOK A SHORT VIDEO. IT WAS SUPPOSED TO BE THE HOTTEST DAYS TODAY AND TOMORROW. I DIDNT NOTICE ANY BREAKAGE AND I DONT SEE ANY ON MY CAMS. IM SURE ITS NOT THAT MUCH RAIN AND THOSE NAHS WILL DRY OUT SOON. I NEED TO GET MORE PH DOWN AND DECIDE WHAT IT IS IM GOING TO DO FOR NUTES IN FLOWER AND MAKE UP MY MIND. 7/28 Huge thunderstorms all day yesterday and through the night with high wonds. Plants made it through unscathed despite the lack of a trellis. Today is supposed to be the hottest of these days. I think the hear wave ends today. I really need to get my supports up. I'm super lucky to not have had any breaks during the storm. I have a couple of videos I did but I didn't upload them earlier and now that I'm back in the woods I doubt they'll upload now. I'll give it a shot. If not I'll put them up tomorrow. OH! I found that four lined plant bug that had been fucking up my leaves and squished him. Well I hope it was him. If not I killed a sibling at least. UPDATE: JUST WOW. This morning all drooped over from the storm went over at 4 and its still 90 and they seem to have grown sic inches and jumped forward WAY more into flower. I am amazed. I'll upload a photo or two but I took a video I'll put up tomorrow. Super stoked. Oh and you can give me a red smile face for not using nutes every week @growdiaries but you point out the deficiency then I'll fix it. 7/29 Plants looking fantastic this morning. UPDATE: PLANNED ON NOT GOING TO THECGROW TOMOGHT SEEING THAT IT HAD RAINED SO HARD AMD THAT WE ARE SUPPOSED TO GET RAIN TONIGHT. I GET THERE AT ABOUT FIVE AND MY CANARY AND A FEWCOTHERS WERE DROOPING! IT WAS IN THE 80S ALL DAY. I GAVE EACH PLANT A GALLON OF WATER. THE GROW BAGS ON THE TEO WORST PLANTS WERE SUBSTANTIALLY LIGHTER THAN THE REST. I HOPE IM NOT OVERWATERING. THE PLANTS SEEMED TO PICK BACK UP AFTER WATERING BUT ILL HAVE TO WAIT UNTIL TOMORROW TO UPLOAD MY PICTURES AND VIDEOS. I NEEDED TO ADD TEMPORARY SUPPORTS TO A COUPLE DIFFERENT PLANTS. IM CERTAINLY GLAD I GOT THE URGE TO GO OVER. WHAT A CHANGE IN A FEW HOURS 7/30 Plants are really growing fast and transitioning quick to flower. We got almost no rain so I'm glad I watered like I was supposed to even though the bags had some heft to them. I'm noticing more pest damage. I'm thinking a bt spray tonight might be beneficial. I'll look through what I've got on hand. I may just give them an application of spinosid but we'll see. I still need to move things and put my supports up. Medical problems have slowed me down. UPDATE: Went to check the plants around 3 and they looked great. Bags were still heavy and a little bit moist. I think with the added rain some of the plants may have been overwatered. I should have only watered tue bags that felt light. There is only one plant now that looks a little overwatered and even that is looking good. I found some more minor pest damage. Winds were fairly high. I wondered about my trellis netting but it hadn't been sanitized and my plants are very healthy so I decided to wait. I watched them dance like willows in the wind. I know it won't be like that with big ol colas on them but for right now it's working out just fine. Goal for next week is to move the front row back and move things around to better utilize space, possibly spray for pest and add supports for final flowering after I get the plants situated how I want them. If I do it right I may be able to lst some. Also took a 2 minute video but I cant upload until tomorrow. 7/31 I'm wondering about my watering habits. This morning I watered a couple blue cheese and purple punch plants with just a half gallon as they were light and looked drooping. I'm wonderingvif I'm overwatering. Some plants still seem heavy while others are light? I think the plants may have been overwatered due to the torrential rain and my taking less time hand watering. Hopefully I won't come home from this doctors appointment to wilted plants but I really doubt it. 10th planet requires far less water than the two other strains. Even specific phenos require more water and its difficult with the different size containers but im working with what ive got. I need more ph down and I've gotta get these plants supported. These are some massive plants. Store was closed. Dispensary was opened. Showed my buddy the video then it started raining. By the time I got there the plants looked horrible. Everything was droopy but a couple were really bad. A few weren't bad at all. Actually the one in the ten needed it. I think I just need to give more water at a time and document how I water each plant individually. I also need to take into consideration the weather. Hard to do when it's so unpredictable. I'll wait for them to dry out and then I plan to start low doses of big bloom and grow big but I need to wait for them to dry out first. Then next watering they'll get some nutes. It's sunny now so I may go check my plants. I may also put a fan out for a while on the bags. That might help them out.

Still too early in the week to call it fully in bloom yet, little branches really started poking out after I tied down the 2 biggest fan leaves. I have been watering in small amounts but more often, using the soil weight and topsoil to judge. The smell has started coming in the last 2 days of week 4, skunky right off the bat. Noticed some nice little pistols poking about in bud sites! Update:D4/wk5 Bud sites are really starting to see expand, trying to keep the big fan leaves out of the way when possible. Going to start adding fox farms big bloom into the watering schedule starting D6/wk5.

Im really charmed with this community, so much friendly and helpfull, ill make a new diary For us, thank you all for your help and understanding, although my English is not so good LOL. See you soon00

So. After 12 weeks I realise the problem. They are not auto. They are turning amazing now

First off I just want to say for some reason it’s not letting me change the right temperatures on my diaries ! Each time when I put it in they stay at 50. My day air stays 75 degrees an , night degrees is 70 ! Today is day 58 for all these ladies! This week has been really great ! Girls really progressed a lot , especially for one the Forbiddin Runtz, looks like is gonna finish up in a week or 2 ! Other then that they are coming along well! Keep those eyes peeled for next week! Cheers😶‍🌫️💨💨💨💨