Week 12 (14-4 to 20-4) 14-4 Temps: 19.7 to 23.5 degrees Humidity: 45% to 68% Watering: 1000 ml. EC: 0.4 15-4 Temps: 19.2 to 27.1 degrees Humidity: 52% to 69% Watering: 1000 ml. EC: 1.5 Light set from 65% to 70% strength. Did a big defoliation today. (Schwazzing) Removed 141 grams of leaves. 16-4 Temps: 20.6 to 25.8 degrees Humidity: 54% to 66% Watering: 1000 ml. EC: 0.4 17-4 Temps: 18.5 to 23.8 degrees Humidity: 60% to 68% 18-4 Temps: 18.7 to 24.2 degrees Humidity: 56% to 71% Watering: 1000 ml. EC: 0.4 19-4 Temps: 18.4 to 24 degrees Humidity: 54% to 70% Watering: 1000 ml. EC: 0.4 20-4 Temps: 18.3 to 24.2 degrees Humidity: 51% to 71% Watering: 1750 ml. EC: 0.4 Light is at 70% strength with a distance of 37/40 cm. Also installed a stronger exhaust fan as the humidity is getting a bit high.

Day 14 🤩 vegi is starting Piccas from this morning 8.30 and 17.00 after LST So today was the first time I had Terra, Generator & Root Stimulator, only ¼ of the specified amount of everything and of course Hy Pro Fertilizers, my fertilizer barrel is finally ready, is being supplied with oxygen and the fertilizer is in motion, which means that as I am lazy I make 50l and leave it in the corner 😉 but always ready to use... Then today was the first light LST, I will leave it alone for 4 days and then see where and how I pull it out, it doesn't really matter because I want to put up a net and lay it flat underneath The Frosted Agave from Original Sensible Seeds has also seen the light of day This grow is sponsored by: Zamnesia Seeds Hy-Pro Fertilizers Mars Hydro LED Start 26.4.024 Germination date 30.4 024 Germination 6v6 From Zamnesia Do Si Dos f1 Auto.2x Green Crack f1 Auto 2x Pineapple Express f1 Auto 2x Growing method L.S.T with the help of a scrog net..🙈 Light led 1x fc 4800 from mars hydro Exhaust air, I replaced the heavy pk 150 with my Mars Hydro 6 inch fan Filter Rhino pro 900m³ Inlet air 305 m³ with filter 160mm Soil: Atami Light Mix & 5 mm pumice stone & 16 mm expanded clay on the floor In 15 l. Factory pot Temperature inside: 26.50°C 79 Fahrenheit Outside temperature 21°C R/H 64% Light: 19/5 dimmed to 75% distance 70cm Roots 21.00°C Ph medium 7.0 Ph water 6.3 1.5 liters today Ec 0.8 Nutes Hy-Pro Fertilizers Terra ml to 1l Terra Veg & Bloom 0.6ml Roots Stimulator 2.0 ml Spraymix 5 ml Generator 0.3 ml Epic Boost 0 ml Enhancer by Greenhouse 0 g 😉🤜🤛 #marshydroreview #HyProFertilizers #zamnesia #originalsensibleseeds

Day 22: Honestly didn't think I would have made it this far. The girls are looking great minus a couple of issues. I have over watered them and over fed too! Not to mention trying to LST too early. I will wait a bit longer before watering this time. Day 23: MORNING - They were super dry. I have been over watering a bit so I watered maybe 1/2 gallon for all 6. I also did some more LST and took 1 large fan leaf off of each plant. I will update again before lights out. Day 23: NIGHT - The girls are responding very well to the LST. I don't think they are liking the 80°. I am starting to have issues with lower humidity again. I need to try and figure some sort of ducting out or possibly even get a small AC unit for the grow room. Day 24: MORNING - I removed a couple more leaves that were covering potential bud sites. I have also done a partial main-line on the smallest girl. It looks to be already showing pistols. I've had to open the tent with a big fan blowing directly in with the humidifier behind it. The girls were getting hot and dry. Day 24: NIGHT - Well 5 are showing to be female. The biggest plant is showing no signs of sex. I am guessing it will be the mystery seed. I will be doing no more LST to these ladies for at least a week or better. I think I have stressed them out enough the past 2 days. Day 25: These girls are very resilient!! I tortured them all weekend and the one I nopped off to do a sort of mainline grew by 20% at least. Day 26: It is the official 3 week mark today and the girls are starting to flower. I tied em down to get light to all bud sights. I will 100% not touch them unless they need it from this point!!!! They are soo small and I need not stunt them any more!! I have removed the Mystery Seed as it looks to be a male and I do not want to take the chance!! Also fed and watered today. Only 200 ppm for the feed. Day 27: Nothing new to report. These girls are gonna be tiny :| I must've stressed em too much too soon :( Looking good though I think! 💪 Day 28: I never do what I say. Dumb! Broke main stem on one of the best plants. Taking it as a lessons learned. It's been two hours and she looks SICK! Oh well.

Day 37 - Everything looks good.... they are drinking so much.... i built a bit more stable light setup, and i'll need to buy afew more plugs and stuff, to fill it out ...... i organised all the 2700k globes, ready to swap in..... still waiting on the exhaust fan, so i'll keep em in "grow" mode another week or 2 .... i'm vaping a leaf or 2, and drinking "green tea hot chocolates" .... it is so delicious in hot chocolate .... my health has picked up since starting the vape/drinks... the 21 thc/19 cbd is supa healthy ... Day 38 - Getting them ready for Flower, noticed they are lacking in nutrients, so i started em on the heavier dutch master gold flower nutrients. Day 40 - Added some pics. (they look droopy because they in night mode, just turned on lights for pic) - Started them on 12/12 flower, still working on getting all the lights, gear, and globes, for the right spectrum and amount of light.... atm got - 7x 2700k (click) , 2x 6400k (osram), + 60w light panel .... i'll go get some more gear today and hope to expand it to 10x 2700k , 2x 6400k ...... I put the exhaust filter fan on seperate power, so it doesn't go on/off with the timer, but stays on all the time.... it totally fixed up any odour problems, haha ....... Added some different pics for my light spectrum ... etc..... the outside winter temp is now at 40-60oF (5-15oC) so with the 12/12h, the temp inside the tent is dropping to 60-80oF (18-22oC), abit low, but flowering is supposed to be in winter, so idk, see how it goes..... I'm new to growing, so idk how this will work out....... just working it as i go.... i noticed afew spots on a leaf, so i upped the neuts abit more, they are still drinking like fish, huge amounts.... Day 40 late - new vids - Got the extra gear and installed it all... redesigned the initial setup, refined it with proper measurements, had to get my steel rule out, lol....... got the 12 leds in and running, 10x 2700k clicks, and 2x 6400k osrams, with the panel..... it's lookin beautiful and got the exhaust on 24 hrs now, all working perfect with 12/12 timer.... they are forming a few spots on leaves, so hammering the nute water into them now... they are drinkin 1-2 litre of nute water a day each.... (nute water = Dutch mater gold one grow/flower, 800-1000 ppm 6 PH) 😎 Some details about lights.... i did some maths on it, and included some handy pics..... because i'm using cheap leds, i'm keeping the distance at 25cm, they are leds so they won't burn, and it massively increases the lumens/lux/Par, and with my home built light setup, the leds are spread out enough to keep it lower.... worked out good..... something of note is that all the led globes are built/made in china... however different marketing/selling companies from around the world... and the german osrams are 1w leds ... by far the most superior, but anyone can design and send the requirements to china to build em, haha) it's not a contest, we all work together.... haha.... the person with the best led light globes gets my business, because i want the best for my babies.... :) (let me explain- 1w led vs 0.5 w led, the watt of the led projects the light, lumens, LX/PAR etc much further the higher the watt of the led....my 600w panel has 0.5w leds, the philips has 0.75, the osrams have 1w leds..... ) each globe philips (dutch)- 10.5w internal - 14 leds 0.75w 1055 lumens each globe osram (german)- 10.5w internal - 10 leds 1w 1080 lumens each globe click (cheap)- 9w internal - 16 leds 0.56w 800 lumens light panel - 70w - 600w 30 red - 8 red 12 blue - 8 white 7500k 1 ir - 1 uv = 20x blue 6400k - 38x red 2700k internal - 60 double leds - 120x0.5w 6000 lm

So this plant grew during winter, i cant heat the room where the tent is so the only warmth was from my LEDs and dehumidifier, during summertime this strain finishes in around 10 weeks from seed, if u like strong smoke you should try her out

Today marks the beginning of the last week of flowering for my cannabis plant. After months of care and patience, I can finally see the first amber trichomes starting to form. It's a sign that the plant is nearing the perfect time for harvest. The buds are dense and frosty, and the shift in trichome color is telling me that the plant is at its peak potency. In a couple of days, I'll move the plant out of the tent and into complete darkness for 48 hours. This process is supposed to help boost resin production and make the final buds even better. After that, it’ll be time to cut her down. It's exciting to be so close to the end, and I can't wait to see how the final product turns out!🌱🌱

Hello Diary, The first week of vegetation on my little farm has ended. I'm a little late in updating the diary, but I'll try to change that. After the plant has received 4 leaves, the vegetation phase officially begins. In the case of Cherry Pie, it is 9 days since I planted the seed in the ground, or 5 days since the plant sprouted. Cherry Pie has been growing beautifully since the beginning, you can see a drastic difference every day. I have put photos on the 1st day of vegetation and the 7th day of vegetation and the difference is obvious in those seven days. Cherry Pie - Day 1. - 3.5 cm Cherry Pie - Day 7. - 7 cm Conditions on the farm are not ideal. I still suffer from the unbearable summer heat, which also affects the temperature in the apartment. When I add Migro Aray 4 to that, the temperature sometimes reaches 32 degrees. I don't see that it has a bad effect on the plants, but I would like it if the temperature were lower. The lights are now set at 35 cm from the plants and are dimmed at 40% of their power. Watering is every three to four days. I prepare about 4 liters of water, add 1 ml/L Calcium and Magnesium supplement and this week I started adding Bio Grow Fertilizer, a new product from RQS. After all, I lower the pH to 6.0. and with that amount I water all three plants on the farm. Here's a quick recap of the week. 25/07/2024 - Day 1. The official start of the vegetation. After photographing the plants, I watered them. I still put the seed booster in there, also a new product from the RQS organic fertilizer collection. 28/07/2024 - Day 4. Watering. I prepared 4 liters of water again, added Calcium and magnesium supplement, Bio Grow Fertilizer and finally lowered the pH. with Lemon Kick. 31/07/2024 - Day 7. End of the first week of vegetation. Taking photos and after that I watered all three plants on the farm. Cherry Pie - Day 7. - 7 cm. That's all from me for this week, see you soon.

Haar laatste week, Wat een gigantische schoonheid zeg!! Haar toppen zijn keihard en zitten vol thc! De hoofdtop is te zwaar, zonder ondersteuning valt ze om. Wat is dit weer een geweldige strain van Zamnesia! Ik ben echt supertevreden. Ik zal meer foto's updaten dus hou het in de gaten! ❤️

09/28/24 - Purple Punch 👊 & Green Crack 💚 Both these girls will have the ☀️ today, and tomorrow will get a feeding with the 09/29/24 - Purple Punch 👊 - Green Crack 💚 Both these girls got the dunk, and runoffs are perfect. 1000-1100 PPM runoffs, with 6.4 Green Crack, and 6.5 Purple Punch

Finally at the swelling stage and growing out nicely , this lady has been a joy too grow , no decency's what so ever , she really did stretch in here flower stage going from the size of the Zkittlz plant into a plentiful branched beast she is today stacked with bud sites and let me tell you she smells absolutely amazing ! her buds look frostie already and are starting too swell lovely and there are plenty of them too ,

week 6 seeing strong new growth in both plants, trying to contain vertical growth with low and high stress training before I add the double layer trellis netting next week. started roots by heavy 16 at 1 ml per gal, and i have foliar 2 times past week (once every 3 days) heavy 16 foliar at 40 ml /1 l (breaks down to 4 ml per 100 ml of water, mist about 50 mls on bottoms of plants then all over an hour after lights turn off. did some defoliation on lower fans to allow light penetration to potential mid level tops

Olá amigos, estamos na terceira semana de floração, 54 dias de vida, pois as meninas não param de me surpreender, estão a crescer cheias de vigor, com um bom desenvolvimento de floração e a esticar para todos os lados, tenho o armário com 0,89m2 cheio de flores 🤩💪💪, a shyscaberry tem um aspeto sativa cheia de ramos, a BlueBerry OG tem um estilo indica robusta, e a runtz muffin tem aspeto híbrido muito forte, ambas com muito boa saúde 🤩 esta semana adicionei 1ml delta9 para ajudar na floração... Até para a semana ✌️

Strain is actually very easy to grow so i would recommend it even to begginers. Robust plant that did very well on topping, hst and lst training. Buds are thick and heavy. They release very pungent and piney smell with deep tones that reminds grape. After a week of drying i did some bud testing and i would describe the high as awesome physical stone with a bit of euphoria and happiness. Cant wait to cure the buds for a couple of weeks. Peace and be safe!

Going good 👌🏾

Super stinky, eye irritatingly. Harvest is gonna be fun. Reduced the A&B, cut out P/K and molasses. Added mamoth P(free sample) I dont know if It'll do shit but eh free. I've got enough for next grow too. PUrple kush 5 plants in seedling stage now.

👋Top is a clean cut, no confusion for the plant, road ahead is clear, by completely removing the main growth tip, the auxin source is eliminated. The plant permanently halts vertical growth from that main stem and immediately sends its energy and hormones to the two new, evenly spaced branches just below the cut. Fimming slightly different because a small tuft of the top growth is left behind, the auxin disruption is temporary and less severe. The plant recovers more quickly and sends its energy to multiple surrounding growth points, often creating four or more new shoots from the same spot. It will eventually regain some vertical dominance after a few weeks if left to its own devices, but with a little more LST, bending the apex to the same height as the rest of the internodes, this shatters dominance, hopefully creating around 8-9 main shoots growing at equal height once recovered and grown out. Reduced environmental intensity for now and let her focus on dealing with this new stress for a week or two. When H+ ions are added to soil, the first nutrient displaced from exchange sites is typically aluminum (Al3+), if it's present, followed by calcium (Ca2+), magnesium (Mg2+), and potassium (K+), because aluminum and these base cations have different binding strengths. The order of displacement depends on the lyotropic series, where ions with a higher positive charge and those with weaker binding strengths are displaced first. The specific order of nutrient displacement is determined by the lyotropic series, which ranks the strength with which cations are adsorbed by soil particles: Al3+: Most strongly adsorbed, so if present, it will be displaced by H+ ions, leading to increased solubility of aluminum and potential plant toxicity. Ca2+: Displaced next, as it is more strongly bound than Mg2+ or K+ but less than Al3+. Mg2+ and K+: Displaced after Ca2+. The displaced nutrients can be lost from the root zone through leaching, becoming unavailable to plants. As H+ ions increase, the proportion of acid cations (H+ and Al3+) on the exchange sites increases, while base cations (Ca2+, Mg2+, K+) decrease, resulting in a lower soil pH. The amount of photosynthesis (water splitting) directly determines the availability of H+ ions (protons) in a plant. 90% of water is for cooling of photosynthetic apparatus the other 10% is split for its H+ among others things. Carbon sugars, like glucose, do oxidize in soil through a process primarily driven by microorganisms, which break down these sugars for energy. This oxidation converts the sugars into carbon dioxide (CO2) through cellular respiration, a key part of the soil carbon cycle, though some carbon may also be incorporated into soil organic matter. The rate and extent of sugar oxidation depend on factors like oxygen availability, the presence of Fe oxides, and soil redox conditions, which can all influence the process. My understanding of why we flush. Just plain water, what does it do? Strips the medium of salts and nutrients making it empty. What does that do? Triggers nutrient recycling within the plant. What's nutrient recycling? It is a natural part of plant senescence, which can be triggered once you know the switches. A 24:1 carbon-to-nitrogen ratio will also trigger. Why won't it trigger autophagy for me? Nitrogen needs to be gone, gone, gone almost. Ammoniacal (organic) nitrogen takes 4-5 times more water to separate it from soil particles than nitrates so what happens is most people jist flush the nitrates, leave all the ammoniacal in there and this prevents autophagy initiating. Nitrogen decays differently depending on its form during the dry. Ammoniacal nitrogen will oxidize in the air, leaving no trace. But nitrates do no decay and turn volatile and smelly and remain trapped until smoked, no matter how long you cure it does not oxidize. This is why you need to trigger it and begin the denitrfication process prior to harvest to get rid of all the nitrates. Otherwise, you will smoke it. Flush till autophagy begins, just make sure you add no nitrogen afterwards. Micronutrients for trichomes. Don't leave the medium empty for 2 weeks, that does nothing but reduce yield 10%ish. Trichomes are another thing. Trichomes themselves are not directly affected by flushing; rather, flushing affects the plant's nutrient uptake, which influences the development and final state of the trichomes. Trichomes are filled with antioxidants in the last weeks, which is what makes them cloudy. A lot of the processing of antioxidants requires energy and nutrients (mostly micronutrients ), so you don't want that soil empty for 2 weeks, you just want the carbon nitrogen ratio 24:1and no higher. She still wants what she needs to ripen. Processing antioxidants is energy-intensive; heat and light accelerate the rate at which THC converts to CBN. This is why you lower DLI, lower temps. By doing so, you reduce the oxidative workload caused by photosynthesis, which opens up the oxidative capacity for the production of antioxidants. THC is mostly processed at night when the plant's oxidative capacity is generally moreso "free and available" for work

Should probably start my 2 week flush at the end of this week but I want to harvest this plant and my other one(which is 2.5 weeks behind) at the same time so I'm probably going to try and push the feeding another 2 weeks until I start the final flush, trying to have this stay in flower for 10 weeks, the breeder says flowering period takes 8-10 weeks so I think I'll still be just fine. This week went well, the plants are slowly starting to fade and colors are starting to come out. Gonna follow through with my original plan and continue feeding lightly for the next week or two until I start the final flush. I also raised the lights a bit this week mainly to help and give more light to my second plant that stretched so much its main cola is hitting the grow light, and also to help prevent any foxtailing from occurring.