Hi guys So here we are, day 1 of 12/12 plants all look healthy I have performed a defoliation and will do a major defoliation on day 21 of flip. I'm expecting a massive stretch lol, lights on 80% I'll.switch it.up to.100% on day 21. Started on biobizz bloom and topmax today so hopefully I didnt burn them lol Happy growing guys

Sooooooooooooooooooo Preflower ends n now start real flowering :3 Little bit of smell, only when y shake them to seek for plagues (no one so far!) +10 days after second delta 9 time but i forgott to use it the last week, so i decided to make folia in almost night n the next day normal with the other nutrients. Thanks to climate warming baes r drinking a looooooooot, i watered with 1,5-2lt in like 2-3 days the most. I preffer to make small but frecuenly watering but i have no choice now :/ Topping n fiming was such a good idea, i guess that psico#2 is gonna gave me more grs than #1. Same with tangie but she dosent resist the extreme heat wave. Thats all folks! As always, Peace, love n rebelion!

Still doing the balancing act with these autos. Trying to learn as much from my mistakes as a can. For now, the preliminary conclusion is that for my circumstance I need at least 20-liter bags. This is to make sure I don't dry out the grow bags too soon, also I didn't add hydro corn this grow, which I'm going to add next time. Also, they deal better with higher temps so it seems and have more buffering and balancing effects with my type of super soil. Still very happy with how the tent filled with only 4 autos I see that 5 or 6 of this size would've worked. The SP-3000 still working like a charm. Check out the discounts on: www.mars-hydro.com Thank you for checking my grow and hopefully yours are going great! Hug Bud

esta semana seguimos doblando y podando alguna que otra ramita . Al parecer la nº1 ,la Triploide (tres ramas mismo nudo), que pasó a ser diploide (dos ramas mismo nudo) después de podar el primer apical parece ser que ha vuelto a Triploide y esto podria dificultar las otras dos ramas que van más avanzadas por lo que me decidí por cortar y así que siga diploide. A los 40 dias volví a podar los segundos nudos de cada rama dejándolas ahora si listas para pasar a floración en un par o tres de dias. más un agarre de las ramas a las macetas y así ir deshaciéndome de los dobladores , estos estan quedando pequeños. A los 41 dias me dió por cambiar de posición la nº2 y ponerla en el lugar de la nº1, la triploide. La nº2 está creciendo algo más vigorosa que las otras dos y la nº1 va por el camino de quedarse algo más enana. La nº3 seria un intermedio.

Hi Growmies, This was her last week, as she was cut down at the end of the week;) I fed her Final Part another 3 days and then changed the reservoir to PH-ed tap water with Flash Clean for 5 days. Dimmed back the light to 50%. I took out her from the tent for an inspection and I saw more and more milky trichomes turning to amber. This is a clear sign of her maturing beautifully. After she went with another girl from for 48 hours of darkness before she was chopped.🌱⚔️ Her root ball was looking healthy and much better after the flushing process so next time, I'm sure I won't be using powder silicate because it only made the roots tangled. The total number of flowering days was 65 since we changed the light cycle to 12/12. I moved her to the drying tent with 55% RH. She is sharing it with the Dos-si-dos’33 girls. They will remain there as long as needed. Will come with a longer report next week as I have a lot of thoughts in my mind about this journey to Japan with her.💚🇯🇵 Have a lovely weekend fellow cultivators! Peace🏻

Well, well, well, well, for being my very first exprerience in indoors i've seen it very easy, the results were not spectacular, but they are /- what i was expecting. For being the first i think it ended up very well and i have learned too much. I'm happy with de decision of growing auto strains and 1 euro seeds to do my incursion to indoors. For initiating, auto strains are an excelent choice as they don't need too many care to grow them. If you leave them, you will have a good plant, if you expend a bit of time on them (just a bit), they can became awesome plants. Now i'm going to test with photo-period strains, yesterday night the cotyledeons of 2 Dinafem Gorilla Glue and 1 Strain Hunters Money Maker were out, the other Money is still in. Soon i will start this Gorilla Vs. Money Diary (with better photo equipment and lights) . Green Cheers to everyone!!!!! ***** Bueno para ser mi primera experiencia con un armario en indoor lo he visto bastante sencillo, los resultados no son espectaculares, pero si están dentro de mis cábalas. Para haber sido la primera yo diría que ha ido bastante bien y he aprendido un montón. Me alegro haber escogido una genética auto y unas semillas de 1 euro para haber hecho la primera prueba. Para iniciarse las genéticas auto son excelente pues no necesitan de cuidados ni control de tiempos. Si las dejas, te saldrán como el breeder haya decidido desarrollar su genética, si las cuidas un poco (no mucho) te darán mejores resultados. Para mi ha sido una buena iniciación, ahora voy a probar con foto-dependientes, ayer noche salieron los cotiledones de 2 Gorilla Glue de Dinafem y 1 de una Money Maker de Strain Hunters, la otra money aún no ha salido. Pronto iniciaré el diario Gorilla Vs Money (con mejor equipo de fotografía e iluminación) - Saludos a todos!!000

Well I can't really give a good description how it went because I know I messed it all up and I could of doubled my yeild and quality but overall for my skill level I'm very very happy I have had some really good reviews can't wait to try get it right next time 😊 purple lemonade diary will be back real soon 😍 hat of to #fastbuds insane strain with a good high if your debating it debate no more just get this strain and give it a go it brightened my day everyday couldn't wait to undo the tent 😍😍😍😍

Okay heute startet Woche 3 den Main Bud ein wenig runter gebunden und den Ec Wert erhöht. Wurzeln sind schon einige im Wasser

Tell me your impressions

Week 7 did not go too well. I believe I ran into a heat stress issue due to the lights and I also tried some new supplements to add to the res and I ended up with some type of nute lockout.....I think. Anyway, today starts week 3 of flowering and after some more research into nutrient ratios I came up with what you see above. Now I added all of this into 16 gallons of RO water (in the correct sequence) and my EC ended up a little higher than I wanted...1.4. I was looking to stay more around 1.0, but below 1.2 regardless. So I ended up adding 3 more gallons of RO water to the mix and got my numbers looking pretty descent. I was under the assumption ww was on the smaller side of the cannabis world, but this one plant, nicknamed "HULK", seems to be the exception to the rule. Hulk is now 24 inches tall....WITH LST. There is probably another 1.5 feet of branch that is basically horizontal. Well it leaves me in a predicament. I only have 22 inches of light between the 315w CMH and Hulk. The light is as high as it can go in the tent. Well I am going to keep an eye on these girls and hopefully we will see some improvement in growth. Last week pretty much stalled. Well I will check back in and let you know how it's going. Until then just keep it growing. Jan 16 update: wow, the Hulk just keeps going 😳. The runt is still giving me issues. It looks like heat stress but not from the lights. Thinking a vpd issue. Got a thermal temp gun so I am watching for that now. Also got me a wireless camera set up now. So I can check on the girls whenever and wherever I am. Love it.

Hello growers day 63 red poison is in the net 😁 well what can I say about this incredible strain 60 days from seed I thought was abit of an ask but what do you no it is possible lovely red/ purple colours absolutely stinks my whole house is humm dinging i had them on a 20/4 light cycle from start to finish and I used biobizz allmix soil with biobizz nutrients and didn’t have any problems I will put a smoke report up when the buds are ready so if you’re looking for a very quick strain this is defo 1 for you super easy to look after and rewards you with stinking buds 10/10 from me on speed and smell and colour 👌🏻 And a very big thanks @sweetseeds for sending the beans for me to test much appreciated and big thanks to everyone who checked out my grow hope it’s useful for someone so until next time be safe and happy growing easygrower out✌️

So this week all the gelato 33 plants got 2ml/l fish mix and 1 ml/l of bloom added to 3 litres for water. And each one given a litre each. Gap between was 6 days and no water in-between as soil did not dry out through week

D85/F41 - 24/06/23 - She's almost ready, I think I'll start the flush soon D86/F42 - 25/06/23 - Temp is still too high, I'm trying to refresh the environment with air conditioning D87/F43 - 26/06/23 - First Thricomes Video. I'm going to start the flush today and I'll arwest next WE D88/F44 - 27/06/23 - Flushing D89/F45 - 28/06/23 - Flushing D90/F46 - 29/06/23 - Flushing D91/F47 - 30/06/23 - She's ready. Tomorrow I'll cut her

Floracion (Tiempo estimado 64 dias) Primer Semana de Floracion 08/01/2024 - 5:00hrs y 22hrs: Se verifican parámetros básicos del agua, mantener cuidados específicos. Agua de osmosis: Ph 6.0, PPm 1000-1250, Ec 2.0-2.5, Temperatura 20°C - 26°C, Humedad 75% Ambiente: Temperatura 24 °C, Humedad 65%, Ventilación 15%, 12 hrs de luz , 12 hrs de obscuridad. 09/01/2024 - 5:00hrs y 22hrs: Se verifican parámetros básicos del agua, subir demaciado la intencidad del ventilador fue contraproducente ya que las hojas sufrieron quemaduras por frio, se a empezado a regular un poco mejor la temperatura pero el intractor y extractor de 4 pulgadas no estan eficiente, empeze a provar con hielo embotellado para bajar temperatura de la solucion nutriva, mantener cuidados específicos. Agua de osmosis: Ph 6.0, PPm 1000-1250, Ec 2.0-2.5, Temperatura 20°C - 26°C, Humedad 75% Ambiente: Temperatura 24 °C, Humedad 65%, Ventilación 15%, 12 hrs de luz , 12 hrs de obscuridad. 10/01/2024 - 5:00hrs y 22hrs: Se verifican parámetros básicos del agua, mantener cuidados específicos. Agua de osmosis: Ph 6.0, PPm 1000-1250, Ec 2.0-2.5, Temperatura 20°C - 26°C, Humedad 75% Ambiente: Temperatura 24 °C, Humedad 65%, Ventilación 15%, 12 hrs de luz , 12 hrs de obscuridad. 11/01/2024 - 5:00hrs y 22hrs: Se verifican parámetros básicos del agua, mantener cuidados específicos. Agua de osmosis: Ph 6.0, PPm 1000-1250, Ec 2.0-2.5, Temperatura 20°C - 26°C, Humedad 75% Ambiente: Temperatura 24 °C, Humedad 65%, Ventilación 15%, 12 hrs de luz , 12 hrs de obscuridad. 12/01/2024 - 5:00hrs y 22hrs: Se verifican parámetros básicos del agua, mantener cuidados específicos. Agua de osmosis: Ph 6.0, PPm 1000-1250, Ec 2.0-2.5, Temperatura 20°C - 26°C, Humedad 75% Ambiente: Temperatura 24 °C, Humedad 65%, Ventilación 15%, 12 hrs de luz, 12 hrs de obscuridad. 13/01/2024 - 5:00hrs y 22hrs: Se verifican parámetros básicos del agua, se cambia extractor por uno de 8 pulgadas con filtro, se mantiene la temperatura a 21 grados con la lampara a 75 % de potencia, mantener cuidados específicos. Agua de osmosis: Ph 6.0, PPm 1000-1250, Ec 2.0-2.5, Temperatura 20°C - 26°C, Humedad 75% Ambiente: Temperatura 24 °C, Humedad 65%, Ventilación 15%, 12 hrs de luz, 12 hrs de obscuridad. 14/01/2024 - 5:00hrs y 22hrs: Se verifican parámetros básicos del agua, mantener cuidados específicos. Agua de osmosis: Ph 6.0, PPm 1000-1250, Ec 2.0-2.5, Temperatura 20°C - 26°C, Humedad 75% Ambiente: Temperatura 24 °C, Humedad 65%, Ventilación 15%, 12 hrs de luz, 12 hrs de obscuridad.

Start of the journey for the Auto Gelato I am testing for Fast Buds Genetics 💪 .. I messed up and had my light timer turned off, so I ran 24 hours for the first week instead of 20-4, which I believe to be the culprit for the leggy seedling. That, or my light is not sufficient. It says it's 150 W on here, but I can assure you it is only 100 W out of the wall. I had the brightness down originally but brought it up to 85-90% to see if I can stop the stretch.

Let say I don’t even know where to begin or how to say this but it more of a challenge w/ the fans leave. I’m like dang but of course got to keep the girls manicure and clean for they can strive to their full potential. I may have or may have not stress the girls out by cutting too many fans leaf off. Regardless I hope they don’t hermies on me . If did no sweat 😅 still will run this back . I only see em at the bottom bottom. For sure have to trims on the regulars… or every time open grow tent. According to Premium Cultivars.. the problem to look out for is trimming & pruning . Humidity Sensitive and mold/mildew. Sorry for late post or update. Outside of that working new 9/5 and doing my best to stay on top LPC. Will see harvest… stay tune!

Its time to prepare for war. *Blows bagpipe* FISH SH!T THE ORGANIC SOIL CONDITIONER (used twice before and always noticed instantly) Fish Shit is a living product! It provides a complex Microbial profile that includes thousands of different species of bacteria, fungi, and protozoa. This profile is closer to a natural ecosystem than anything you will find on the market. Fish Shit helps release essential oils and terpenes which contribute to the building of a myriad of flavonoids. Flavanoids play a key role in the development of the most potent aromas and tasteful flavors of a plant and its fruit. Fish Shit contains beneficial microorganisms that help plants maximize nutrient uptake. It does this by transforming nutrients into more usable forms and keeping these nutrients in the soil longer. During photosynthesis plants naturally produce exudates (chemicals that are secreted through their roots). Through these exudates, plants can attract the types of good bacteria that are beneficial to them at different points in their growing cycle. These good bacteria cover the roots and act as a barrier to the invasion of disease-causing organisms that may harm the plant. What Are Enzymes? Before we dive headfirst into how, exactly, enzymes can benefit cannabis plants, it helps to understand a little about what these microscopic proteins do. Essentially, enzymes facilitate chemical reactions. They do so by binding with a substrate and forming or breaking molecular bonds. In this context, the substrate is the molecule upon which an enzyme acts to boost the efficiency of a reaction. •substrate /sŭb′strāt″/ •noun •The material or substance on which an enzyme acts. A surface on which an organism grows or is attached. An underlying layer; a substratum. Enzymes are proteins with complex 3D shapes that feature regions called active sites. When the substrate binds to these active sites, it forms an enzyme-substrate complex that causes a chemical reaction to take place, temporarily changing the structure of the enzyme and ultimately causing molecules to either come together or break apart. As a result, molecular products are released, and the enzyme returns to its original shape. Specific enzymes are capable of binding with certain substrates, as the substrate fits into the active site more or less via a lock-and-key principle. Although, new research suggests a more accurate theory of "induced fit", in which enzymes and substrates undergo structural changes to facilitate the reaction. If you take the human body as an example, we have an abundance of enzymes in our saliva and digestive system. These molecules bind with substrates in these regions (food particles), working to break down the food we eat into usable parts before converting them to energy. Enzymes in cannabis work in a similar way to the example highlighted above. Typically, enzymes occur in soil naturally, but if your soil mix is lacking organic material, or you're growing hydroponically, then adding enzymes directly to the substrate is crucial. By using them in cannabis growing, enzymes not only help break down essential nutrients into smaller, more readily available pieces, but they also support the digestion of dead root cells, clearing a direct path for nutrients. Overall, enzymes make it easier for your cannabis plants to absorb all the elements they need to reach their full potential. For growers, a plant that reaches its full potential means a bucketload of juicy buds come harvest. This is essential if you want to reuse a pot with old systems left over like mine. Common plant enzymes include: •Cellulase •Xylanase •Beta-glucosidase •Hemicellulase •Amidase Amino acids are a crucial, yet basic unit of protein, and they contain an amino group and a carboxylic group. They play an extensive role in the gene expression process, which includes an adjustment of protein functions that facilitate messenger RNA Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are the three main pillars of nutrient solutions and fertilizers, but there are countless other nutrients that your cannabis plants need to produce the best possible harvest. Amino acids are one of them. You may have noticed that amino acids get a lot of attention from bodybuilders and other athletes. That’s because they play a key role in the synthesis of protein, which, as you probably know, is super important for sports recovery and muscle growth. Amino acids are the building blocks of protein and the foundation of both plant and animal life. But what do amino acids do for cannabis? WHY IS PROTEIN IMPORTANT FOR CANNABIS? Just like proteins are important for the human body, they are equally important for the growth and development of plants. For example, proteins help plants: •Facilitate the growth of intracellular plant structures •Promote energy generation •Stimulate metabolic processes •Facilitate the absorption and transportation of nutrients So, where do plants get these vital proteins from? Well, unlike humans, plants can’t source proteins or amino acids from other organisms. Instead, they need to create their own amino acids, and then use these to build protein. That's why gardeners, much like athletes, go wild for amino acid supplements. Amino acids help plants by… • Increasing their production of chlorophyll, which ultimately improves their ability to photosynthesize • Serving as an easily absorbable form of nitrogen • Stimulating the synthesis of key vitamins • Improving their resistance to pests and diseases • Boosting the strength of their cells Amino acids also serve as the precursors to auxins, a group of plant hormones produced in the meristems—the apex of the stems where new leaves and stems are born. Auxins play a key role in the plant, activating genes for plant growth and development by triggering a multitude of vital plant functions. In other words, they determine what its size and architecture will look like. Auxins influence the development of branches, flowers, and roots, and even help to regulate the photoperiod response of the plant. Some amino acids, like cysteine, also work together with antioxidants like glutathione to help cannabis plants deal with oxidative stress, which can be caused by high-intensity lighting, some nutrient solutions, and high levels of CO₂. Unlike humans, plants can synthesize all the amino acids they need to survive and develop properly. Unfortunately, however, amino acid synthesis is a really high-energy process, and plants may struggle to produce enough amino acids when exposed to stress. WHAT FACTORS AFFECT A PLANT’S ABILITY TO SYNTHESISE AMINO ACIDS? Any kind of stress can affect a plant’s ability to produce enough amino acids. This includes: • Drought • Temperature extremes • Poor soil health • Pests • Diseases • Poor lighting • Lack of space • Poor root health WHAT DOES ALL OF THIS MEAN FOR WEED PLANTS? If you want to push your plants to their extreme in terms of floral growth and resin production, you should look into amino acid fertilizers. By making amino acids readily available to your plants, they’ll be able to use crucial energy to grow and bloom, rather than focusing on synthesizing amino acids themselves. Game of Inches, this is another Plants can absorb amino acids via their roots and leaves. They can also benefit from amino acids during both their vegetative and flowering phases. The fastest way for plants to absorb amino acids is via their leaves. The foliar application of amino acids is believed to improve the transportation of nutrients, increase transpiration, and boost photosynthesis. Hence, I recommend feeding your plants with foliar amino acid fertilizers. When doing so, however, carefully measure the amount of fertilizer you use, as—like with any nutrient—overfeeding can damage your plants. FOLIAR FEED AND SOIL SOAK • 1 crushed queen anne carrot • Add 2 tbsp of NPK Raw powdered water-soluble cane molasses • 20ml h2o2 • 1 crushed radish • 0.25 tsp NPK Enzymes • 0.25 tsp NPK Amino Acids • 50ml coconut water ( nature's own amniotic fluid packed with amino, enzymes ) + The sound of songbirds. Onto the predators 1250 -Green Lacewings Lacewings are extremely voracious predatory insects that feed on several pests. In adulthood, it feeds on pollen and nectar. In the larval stage, it feeds on aphids, thrips, and mealybugs at all stages of growth. It can also attack spider mites in moderate quantities. It is initially an aphid predator, but very effectively controls thrips and mealybugs infestations. It is so voracious that in the absence of prey, it will feed on its congeners. Lacewings are cannibalistic if there is no food available for them. It is therefore important to introduce them into an infestation situation, and not just preventively. •congener /kŏn′jə-nər/ •noun •A member of the same kind, class, or group. •An organism belonging to the same taxonomic genus as another organism. •A thing of the same kind as. or nearly allied to, another; specifically, in botany and zoology, a plant or an animal belonging to the same genus as another or to one nearly allied. Ideal temperature 20°C – 26°C Ideal humidity 60% – 70% Predatory stage life cycle 21 days Introduction rate 4 weeks Storage Refrigerator Use Immediately Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Lacewings are available on small paper cards that you can hang to plant stems. On the cards are dozens of eggs ready to hatch. There are also sterile eggs they can feed on once they have hatched before they are ready to disperse in the foliage. It is important to use them quickly upon receipt to avoid cannibalism. If you don't use them right away, you can store the cards in the refrigerator for 24 to 48 hours to prevent the eggs from hatching too quickly. Avoid storing them for longer than this or you risk losing eggs. 1250 eggs are divided into 7.5 cards, 2500 eggs on 15 cards, and 5000 on 30 cards. The application rate is one card per square meter of growing surface. Is this predator best used for preventive or curative treatments? Lacewings are used as a curative solution. Anything else I should know? Lacewing eggs hatch approximately 24-72 hours after the cards are exposed to room temperature. When they emerge, the lacewings are just 1.5-2 mm long. They are very small so they are difficult to see. Once hatched, they will stay on the cards for a few hours and then disperse in the foliage. You quickly lose sight of them if you have not witnessed the hatching. They then live in the foliage for about 3 weeks. Often, you will see them towards the end of their larval cycle. After feeding for 3 weeks, they will triple and even quadruple in size. At that point, they are easier to see. But they remain very discreet insects, it is not abnormal not to see them. Egg carcasses left behind on the cards do not disappear after the hatching has happened. It's normal to see eggs still on the cards. Visually it is very similar before and after hatching. Also, on the boxes, there are sterile ephestia eggs which are used to feed the lacewings once hatched. Not all lacewing eggs are viable either. Only a certain percentage of lacewing eggs will hatch. Once hatched, the eggs are white. You can observe this using a magnifying glass. With, 5000 Stratiolaelaps Scimitus It is used to prevent or control thrips pupae, fungus gnats larvae, and root mealybugs in the soil. It can also be used for red mites in bird farms or hen houses. The adult is about 1 mm long and is medium brown with a beige triangle on its back. Another fun fact about them is they can survive without prey. They can eat algae and plant debris. This is why they can reproduce and stay in plants for long periods. Ideal temperature 15°C – 23°C Predatory stage life cycle 18 days Introduction rate 2 weeks Storage Room temperature Use Within one week Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Sprinkle directly on the growing media. They can live in all types of substrates like potting soil, coconut fiber, rock wool, cedar mulch, etc. Stratiolaelaps establish easily so they are permanently fighting pests. One introduction is generally enough unless you have an infestation. In this case, introduce them at least twice at a 2-week interval for best results. If you grow your plants in a 100% mineral substrate, it will have to be released more often since there is less organic matter than in traditional soil. Do I need to take any specific precautions? Stratiolaelaps breed in the top layer of the soil. So it is important not to disturb them in the first days following their introduction. They don't like temperatures below 8 ° C. So be sure not to introduce them in a water-saturated or cold environment. Release them 24-48 hours after your last watering. They are very sensitive to chemical acaricides and diatomaceous earth. These methods are incompatible with their use.