Can't report too much this week because I was on vacation. The person who watered them for me made a video for me though. I've had some major issues with wasps munching my plants at night. Took a while to find out what it was, but they only seem to do that in a certain life phase. Spoiler: it's over, they stopped after 2 weeks. My purplematic never went into that typical early flower stretch. I have no idea why. But the buds are getting quite bulky and I tried to space them out as well as possible. She turned very very black and seems quite healthy. I'll give them another week on fish mix and then switch to bio grow. They seem to be doing quite well on this way of doing it and I'm having zero issues with early flower nutrient deficiency

This week has been important for getting some of the pinning done and setting her up for the stretch,,,being limited for space in the 2x2,,and changing her usual Christmas tree style of growth,,im hoping to create a canopy that flowers evenly,,without one main leader,,but all branches have the chance to be the leader,,and produce flower evenly across the canopy,,!! Once the pinning is done ,,she can go wild,,😁

All plants growing well , buds developing well. Fat banana much stronger against the feeding then the Bubble Kush Auto, but still both growing well and dense buds .

Tok off large fan leaves on day 24. Seeing preflower starting. Decided to try out a natural shape instead of doing LST. I hope this doesn't backfire... The blackberry gum on the right is getting big. I like how autopotamus has natural shape... But he also has much more light haha

I added some soil to reduce the length of the stems and make them more stable to the fans, sprayed once with mineral water after the lamp goes out and put some sticky traps because as usual there are some gnats in the soil, nothing to worry about so far.

Wondering how much longer PK1 has before harvest. 80% of her pistils have turned amber. Exploring mid week shows me I have at least another week...maybe 2

Hope you like the music Ok third week, they had some deficiencies. That's why I switched to mineral. To many plants to focus on, so I do a mixed feeding. Organic growing only with one plant ahaha. No techniques used.

Day 42 Ph run off is back in range 6.3-6.5 getting some slight nute burn tips I am assuming due to nutrients actually being available now haha next feed will cut 1 gram of nutrient powder see how she responds

Roots started to show at the base of the pots so I've moved her into her penultimate pot now. Next stop the smart pot. Her stem is firming up lovely and she's starting to show some lateral growth. Overall she looks really healthy. Once the other seedlings catch up a bit ill start to ramp up the light. LST will start soon!

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

Fastbuds - Mimosa (2x) 08/27 Coming into week 4 Veg, User error stunted them lightly but things seem back on track. Exhale 365 C02 bag introduced last week to setup for early flower. No signs of concern or any deficiencies. Early flowering has begun *Mid-Week Update* *08/30* Both plants have recovered nicely, and placed under trellis net. Introduced NPK Phosphate Purged Pure Blend Pro Grow *End of week recap* Flowering has begun Stopped veg nute feed Introduced Raw NPK Phosphorus and Potassium

Second full set means half the week 1 newts on an chart she's looking good and doing good so far room is almost done being remodeled after last grow and I almost got all my nutes in the mail.

She was just lst'd a little he help bring her out and down. She gave me no problems once she snapped out of whatever she was going through foe the first few weeks. She has some good chunky buds and will have a good amount of trim and some popcorn buds that I left to make hash out of. A real pleasure to grow and can't wait to bring it back into the garden.

Gave the photos a haircut today. Removed some fan leaves and lower branches that wouldn't amount to much. Gave the branches to my horse because he loves them! Tried enticing the ducks with fan leaves but they weren't having any of it. They prefer lettuce, not "The Devil's Lettuce"😂 I added in a little 5-1-1 fish fertilizer to my feeding regimen as well. Still picking off inchworms. And as you can see I made it to the hardware store and put up this baby almost completely by myself. I only asked my husband to hold the center roof panel support while I screwed it in. Couldn't have been better timing since hurricane Dorian came through yesterday and we had plenty of rain. Of course it didn't fully protect them but the majority of the rain hit the roof. And then it got down to 49 F last night. It's really Fall now! Barney's Farm says Caramel is 3rd or 4th week of September which is the same as Critical Cure but she is way behind Cure. This one may even go into 1st week of October because she even seems behind Blue Shark. Stay tuned!

I am only using tap water half soil half perlite no nutes no ph or ppm tester £70 led from Amazon.had problems earlier but realised that I had no ventilation so I drilled 3holes and put 2 fans facing backwards and put a air vent in the other and the seem to be loving it