Had to spray some medicine again as there was a few bite marks from spidermites. May not get rid of em but can keep them at a lower number until harvest otherwise I would love to get rid of em but don't know the likelihood of that happening. Currently in the tent at 12/12 light schedule and have the lights running at night so cold of the night doesn't stunt any growth.

Not much to report .... flovers starting to fill out . Been watering with tap water from a garden hose once a week.... Ive noticed a little damage to a couple of colas . Dam catapillars.... im going to war . I WILL WIN❗❗❗ ..... Save the Planet grow a Tree 👊 😎 Some pictures would not resize ... Added pics

Uploaded a video which explains everything 👍🏾................................................................................................!

Just checking trichomes at this point. Only feeding water for remaining time left before she gets chopped, dried, and cured. One more month and she will be tasty af.

BANANA PURPLE PUNCH - 420 FAST BUDS This plant started off stunted and looking all round unhealthy but I gave hear time lowered her nutrients and she’s come right back to life forming nice dense dark purple buds … The smell is amazing she smells of berries and lemony woody gassy smell. Nothing like banana if you ask me! Cannot wait to smoke this strain DRSHOTZUK

This Week Is Special. The End of the Journey. End of the Special Queen Journey I cut all Plants off and hang them into the dry tent . They’re standing 48h in the dark before harvest Thx for Watching and the positive messages

15 days to born my son 😍😍😍 My little boy Franz 😘😘

5 more weeks left on the schedule for the veg cycle, growth has been amazing with no signs of stress. I am also using recharge at every watering at (1/4) strength.

Things going great in here. All racing into flower and stretching nicely. Banana Daddy’s in the lead tropics after that cookies trailing at the moment

2 of plants started fading a little I feed them with compost tea and organic nutrients of biobizz I want to test something on one of my plants. Light Compost tea 2 times a week I fed them compost tea once a week from early veg until now and there is no sign of nutrients burning its 33 degrees celsius they need watering everyda

Day 70. Looking gorgeous. Day 74. Starting flush

Jour42 defolliation and LST Jour45 defolliation Jour47 arrosage avec de l'eau ph6.3 à laquelle j'ajoute 1ml par litre d'eau de topmax biobizz La plante entre maintenant en floraison c'est donc le début du stretch Explication en anglais (Stretch explanations more) EXPOSURE TO LIGHT One of the main culprits in abnormal stretching of cannabis plants is the lack of light. Plants that are too far from an adequate light source will respond by accelerating stem growth in order to get closer to the lamp themselves. Especially when there are many other plants. A lack of lighting can easily cause overcrowding in a growing chamber, reducing the steady progression of your crop and the distance ratio between your bulbs and your plants. To address this problem, be sure to provide enough light to your plants to prevent stem growth. At the same time, you should not position your lights too close to your plants either since this would also result in an over-stretching of the stems and in some cases, the loss of your crop. In addition to the distance between the light source and the plant, the type of light you will use also affects the size of the stretching of your crop. The orange and red lights encourage stretching and result in thinner, larger stems. And conversely, blue light stimulates a growth of thicker stems and a smaller size. When a species is ready to enter the vegetative phase and undergo its most drastic stretching period, metal halide lamps can be used to deter far too long stems. THE HEAT Heat is another essential element that can determine the stretch size of your plants during vegetation. Temperatures above 27 degrees push the stems to lengthen more and more and will propel the potential of sativas to push as high as possible. Heat lamps that are positioned too close to plants create an intolerable environment that will grow large, soft plants that will potentially wobble until they fall and lose flowers in its fall. OTHER CAUSES OF STRETCHING There are multiple variables that can lead to the stretching of plants beyond what could normally be expected of the plant. Environmental stressors resulting from transplantation (when a plant passes from one pot to another) can cause the plant to return to shock. This will eventually trigger a reaction causing a stretch. Cannabis plants that are not grown in decent conditions or do not receive enough nutrients will respond in a variety of ways and this includes stretching. Crops that are not spaced far enough apart are likely to stretch to sting the light to other plants. Due to extreme proximity, the plants will fight among themselves to reach the light, forcing them to expand as much as possible throughout the crop. HOW TO CONTROL STRETCHING DURING FLOWERING Stretching during flowering, you guessed it, takes place when you move your plants from the vegetation stage to the flowering stage. This is a completely normal reaction, as your plants are preparing to bear the weight of their heads. Stretching of a plant at the beginning of flowering varies widely; some plants can double in height while others grow only a few centimetres. There are, however, two main variables that can give you at least an idea of how your plants are stretching during flowering, and how much. Here are these two variables: Variety: Genetics has the greatest impact on the size of your plant. In general, sativa varieties stretch more than indicas and tend to develop long, slender stems. Light: Some lights, such as HPS, are more likely to encourage stretching. In addition, great distances between your canopy and your lights will cause the plants to stretch as they try to get closer to the light source. Stretching during flowering usually lasts the first two weeks of the phase. To minimize stretching, keep your lights between 10 (for CFL) and 30 centimetres (for HID) of your canopy. Finally, choose indica varieties if you have a smaller growing space. HOW TO AVOID STRETCHING In many cases, you can expect your cannabis plants to stretch during the flowering phase. Keeping that in mind helps to make a plan in case your species ends up growing much more than you could have imagined. If the information is available, get information on the standard size of your species and compare it to the size of your growing space taking into account the necessary distances between the bulbs and the plants. TRAFFIC While outdoor crop operations benefit from natural air to naturally limit stretching, indoor crops must assume the maintenance of air circulation within a confined space. Basic ventilation is enough to help the cannabis stems strengthen and become thicker rather than too high. In this way, the plants continue to grow vigorously without reaching heights and at the same time, your tolerance ceiling. MANUAL INTERVENTION For growers who want to get their hands dirty, there are physical procedures that can be done to reduce stretching. Similar to the natural effect that the wind has on cannabis plants, manually bending the leaves and stems will cause tiny cracks in the plant's tissues that will cause the plant to focus on regenerating its wounds instead of its vertical growth. THE TOPPING Topping is a form of manual intervention on cannabis to influence its performance, shape or size. In essence, topping is a process in which a new node is cut, growing from the plant to reduce its size and create a "v"-shaped notch that will eventually form two heads. Topping may be an effective measure to combat stretching, but it is important not to do so when the flowering phase begins. In most cases, an abnormal stretch of cannabis plants will not completely destroy your crop. In fact, stretching can indeed help increase your performance. For growers with a growing operation large enough to contain tall plants, stretching can increase the total yield of a species with more vertical space for head formation. In both cases, stretching can easily be planned in advance and there are multiple solutions to help you with this problem which is all too common. May the force be with you 💪

This week was good, stopped feeding nutes, ro water only, the buds are so solid, nice and thick. Didn’t think this was going to be so big, the 16”x16” fits the growbed perfect, it the plant is a little cramped, a 24”x24” would be perfect, as the branches would be able to droop more and allow more light to some lower growth. However after this I’m using these tents to do smaller scrog plants, which are photos. And I’ll do the auto-flowers in a more open environment.

Day 36 Done nothing just let them grow and trimmed a few leaves Day 37 - watered them with feeding. Decreased the amount by 25% except the base nutes. Added 12ml CalMag on 4L water by request of the community. If leaves curl down more, I will consider a flush. Day 38 No feed. Color changed from the middleone overnight, I think that’s a good sign. Maybe someone can comment on that 💪🏽. For me it looks very good, I know a few leaves show signs of nutrient burn but I decreased already and no new signs appeared Day 39 No feed until tomorrow. Day 40 Fed them with very low amount of fertilizer. I aimed for a ppm of 1000 but I went a bit higher until I have osmosis water . Runoff ppm was 2000, but I have to say I am measuring ppm since this week and will fix this problem Day 42 No feed

Sie macht sich so gut!

⭐ TrolMaster tracking ⭐ I started to track my crop during week 15, when I got the Tent-X TCS-1 by TrolMaster. First impression was: this is too professional for me, I can't handle setting it up and using it well. Then I started reading some posts on Instagram, I visited their site and in 5 minutes my cultivation experience took a huge step forward with disarming simplicity, I couldn't believe it. I have uploaded tracking videos from the TrolMaster app for each week from the 15th to the 19th, as well as the two weeks of drying stage. ⭐ Controller Chronicles ⭐ Day after day I appreciated the clarity and precision for data, access to all settings and instant readings by connecting a WIFI router to the controller's LAN port. I loved the possibility to dim my lamps remotely, or even automatically based on the temperature in the box! 🌱 GERMINATION (2 days) Seeds in a glass of EC 0.4 tap water for 10 hours, then in root riots and under the lamp. They sprouted after 48 hours from dry seed. 🌿 GROWING STAGE (10 weeks and half) I decided to give these plants a long vegetative growth and this allowed me to do a lot of training on both. Starting from the 4th veg week I started with defoliation sessions every two weeks, for a total of four during the entire vegetative phase. The last defoliation was done a couple of days before the switch, in order to allow the lower parts of the plant to get as much light as possible. Furthermore I did Topping on week 6, cutting the apical branch, then on week 8 I did Topping again on several sites, as well as SuperCropping on the highest branches to make the canopy uniform. The light cycle I used is 18/6 and the last two veg weeks I lowered the light hours to 16/8 first and 14/10 then. During the veg stage I made 4 DWC change, PH was always between 5.5 and 6, about EC I started with 0.6 and was 1.4 on the last veg week. 🌸 FLOWERING STAGE (9 weeks) I started this phase after 36 hours of darkness, I then changed the DWCs solution (adding a flowering stimulator). Then I mounted the ScrOG-net about 50 cm from the base of the plants and I wove the phenotype #1 through the net occupying at least 60% of the available space; the phenotype #2 stretched shortly after the switch and I used the net only to widen the central branches. They showed the pre-flowers two weeks after the switch, then I made two defoliations on week 3 and 5 flo. During the last four weeks of flowering (weeks 6-9) I simply paid attention to the PH-EC levels to provide the roots with optimal conditions. I then kept the TEMP-RH-VPD-PPFD values ​​under control and this also thanks to the Tent-X controller by TrolMaster which allows me to provide optimal conditions also above. I chopped them when trichomes were about 85% milky and 15% amber. During the flowering stage PH was always between 5.8 and 6.2, about EC I started with 2 and was 2.3 on the last week before flush. ✅ HARVEST - From dry seed to harvest: 140 days (2 days germination + 75 days veg + 63 days flo). - Chopped after 4 days flush and 48 hours in dark; - Wet trim, removed fan leaves. ✅ DRYING STAGE - Time: 14 days; - Average: 20° C - 50% RH. - After that I made a dry trim, removed branches and sugar leaves. ⚖️ DRY WEIGHT - Phenotype #1: 230 gr buds + 25 gr larf; - Phenotype #2: 105 gr buds + 50 gr larf. So, the overall dry weight is: 335 gr buds + 75 gr larf. ✅ CURING STAGE - Curing is done after 30 days with Boveda 62%.

Week 6 and they are still in the vegetation phase. Still growing it under 1 95w cfl 6500k. I really learned that leaving your plant in a small pot for too long can really stunt growth and slows down the whole process... It's growing pretty fast right now and every day i see how the plant is getting bigger. Did some LST to give new branches more light. Leave any tips :)