🌴WEEK 6 DAY 1 VEG🌴 As you can see after defolitating some leaves to expose lower shoots to light worked out perfectly as she back with a full canopy and most lower shoots have had chance to reach the same hieght as others along with some lst & tucking with her rapidly growing new shoots and leaves tells me shes happy but i am seing a few of symptoms allong the way which i have posted (images) below I find these odd rust looking brown marks on my plant i also had found 1 leaf that looked asif it had been eaten at with this browning close by, i belive it is not pest as i have tried to inspect as best as i can and i do not see anything but i havent checked with microscope :( but im sure its not pest related another thing along my journey that hasnt been exactly how i expected is run off, im week 6 day 1 shes growing fast and seems happy im giving 3L of water at 608ppms with a ph of 5.5 allowing the coco to slightly dry before watering again when i check my run off ppms its way lower today i gave 608ppms it came out at 180ppms WTF :( if anyone read this far if you know your stuff could you possibly help me out take a look at my photos/videos and let me know what you think of my plant.. is she looking healthy.? do you know what these small problems could be? thankyou, Lets Grow!

I think the green is a bit very dark. I did not increase the dose of nutrients, I stay on the same doses. LST on my baby's. Another good week of growth and I'm going into flowering

Week 9 and what can I say about this beauty... The buds on this girl just keeps getting fatter and fatter.! I think I'm hooked on using Live Soil and just water.! Absolutely no deficiencies whatsoever lol I'm giving only a half gallon of water per day and that's it.! The Alaskan Purple Auto is smelling so good with a fruity citrusy smell.! I'm looking forward to this harvest and the outcome... No pics this time but I thought a short video of this girl would do.! Enjoy...))

Welcome to the Green House Seeds Company Cup 🏆. Day 34 since time change to 12 / 12h. Hey everyone 😎. This week she took on an incredible smell 😍. Nothing has to be attached to support as it has very stable branches and everything holds by itself 🤗. The buds clearly increase in volume, which shows me that the GHSC Powder Feeding is still working perfectly 👍. Their colors are beautiful 👏🏼. A genetic perfection 😘. I can't wait to see what she'll do this week 😍. I wish you all a lot of fun with the update, stay healthy 🙏🏻 and let it grow 🌱 You can buy this Strain at : https://greenhouseseeds.nl/ ☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼 Green House Seeds Company Cup 🏆 Type: Wonder Pie ☝️🏼 Genetics: Wedding Cake x OG Kush 👍😍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Flower Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205 W 💡💡☝️🏼 Earth: Canna Bio ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Bio Grow Feeding ( GHSC ) , Enhancer ( GHSC ) , Bio Bloom ( GHSC) ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 6.0

160 days of life harvested on day 63 of flower. I don’t have photos of her vegging but she started off great. About two weeks in, she started having some major issues. Her leaves started atrophying, curling up at the borders, growing 3 finger leaves, all new growth was deformed and twisted and growth in general almost stopped completely, to what I suspect was from broad mites. These fuckers are nasty! I dm’d my local grow shop and tried out some Neem Oil. I diluted it in water like they recommended and sprayed that baby every day for one week, then every other day the following week, then down to once a week. I sprayed her leaves stem and surface of the soil. I also cleaned the entire grow space with some bleach solution. Doing this allowed her to really bounce back, growth started to take off again! So I vegged for a few more weeks and trained her as much as I could to keep her uniform but short, she responded well to this. During flower, she was very happy. I had two main issues during this time, one was being too hot in Nitrogen and a week of very hot temperatures which burned her a slight bit, although she didn’t seem to mind much. I also could’ve continued a once a week spray of Neem oil because I think they might’ve started to come back on the lower and younger leaves that weren’t getting much light. Overall it was a dope grow and hope to do better on the next one!

Week 10 - Here we go … we’re at Day 64 or the very first day of week 10 from seed. It’s been a nice journey so far with no big issues except for a slight deficiency in the first week of flowering, which I duly adjusted by starting off Plagron’s green sensation or HULK juice as I like to call it. Now we’re heading onto the finishing line with dense buds boasting an array of colours and covered in trichomes. I’m keeping the trichomes under check and currently they are 90% cloudy and 10% clear. Day 68 - woooooooh …. Nearly there Day 70 - Winter is coming Girls are ready for harvest and this time round I want to experiment a little. Starting today I increased the dark period to 10 hours and intend to give them 48 hours complete darkness before harvest somewhere around Day 77. The aim ? I read that simulating winter helps the plants increase their trichomes production for the last push before they die. I also decreased the temperatures and humidity levels. Will keep ya all updated 👍

I pinched the tops off both plants..

Helllllo! Fuck that storm! Almost had no power, luckily... and I mean LUCKILY, the power stayed on, but dayyyum was it nasty. Had issues with 1 plant not getting enough light... so I got another 600w. The 450w is great, for 1 plant. No longer a problem, but had some leggy ladies on 1 plant due to this issue. Buds are forming nicely, but non-the-less, MOAR LIGHTS. Advanced Nutrients is fuckin' ridiculous. I can't say enough good things. Just keep up with the diary, it's gonna get nusto pretty soon. 8/19: One of my AK-47 seeds all just showed their taproot. She's been put in her jiffy pellets and I will be creating another diary shortly. The rest is on cruise control bayyybayyyy! ***At this stage, being my first grow, I finally visualized what and why the "Scrog Method" works. It's fucking insane how you can build a canopy to bush out and be so top-friendly. I'll be sure to use this method... eventually! It was just a nice "lightbulb" moment of understanding reality vs. research.

привет садоводы растение после пересадки чувствует себя хорошо расправилось и стало побольше скоро перевожу на цветение

From this point on, the plants of my two active diaries will be together in the grow with a 12x12 photo period. So I'll put the same photos in both diaries.

Did first nutrient feeding w fox farms nutes. Very little. Things were going perfect then I woke up this am to slight curling again. I changed light distance and put in my other light as well so I’m now in need of ac unit or another fan bc it’s getting hotter, 85. Or I figure I could run my exhaust fan 24/7 and take it off my humidity switch but then I got to possibly get another humidifier bc the exhaust fan takes the humidity out of the room. Idk but the girls all in all are looking good to me. started lst on 6/30 using grow big and big bloom now

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

For the Herbies contest - https://growdiaries.woodroom.tel/diaries/157348-grow-journal-by-dabbertglobberfield#gallery=6777378 - Grandmommy Purple is guilty multiple noise violations for being too loud and for stanky funk. Harvest - 169 days / 66 days in flower Well, we did it. I made it to the end. All I can think is...WOW that was A LOT of work. But I think I had very good results for a first time grower. I For harvest, we took Plant B and D and prepared them for immediate freezing. Altogether, I ended up with 1212g wet on plant B and 1089g wet on plant D. I ended up freezing 1816g of this. There was some from each of these plants that was set aside from freezing because, for whatever reason, I thought they were not worthy of washing because of how progressed the leaf damage was from the root rot battle. So that was cut up and dried as nuggets instead of hanging like the rest. Sawtooth and Plant C were both harvested and hung in the tent to dry for 12-13 days. I think I overdried by 1-2 days because when I jarred them they struggled to raise up to 55%. So I am using rh% packs. After drying Sawtooth and plant C, I ended up at 459.8g for dried flower and 170.8g in dried trim. So just over 1lbs between the 2 plants and 4.15lbs wet between the other 2 plants that was washed for hash. So... are you for real with the effort involved with washing bud for bubble hash? I don't think I would do this in the warmth. I only pursued doing bubble hash cause it's cold right now and I figured that would really help. Even in the 30s(fahrenheit) stuff would stick. It's hilarious how sticky of a process this is. I hope you have a bunch of gloves, water, and ice to burn through. I went through over 60 gallons of distilled water and 80lbs of ice to wash the 4 lbs. I am envious of people in videos using a hose to collect, clean, and refill. Also, doing this as a 1 person show is the definition of insanity. I broke the washings up into 3 parts. The first part was was the tester wash. I broke off 420g of plant D's 848gs available. I used 7 bags to see where I would end up. I used 220, 160, 120, 90, 73, 45, 25. What I determined was that if I was hunting a specific micron with a lot of material this would help find what you can get. But for the next washing I reduced the amount of bags to 4; 220, 160, 45, 25. The time, with the 4 bags, I washed with 809g. I had a much more favorable experience and return this second time but I had green fast and probably used too much ice. The 3rd wash was the remaining 631g and I found an extra 137g I added of sugar leaves and trim, brining the 3rd wash to 768g. I used 5 bags this time; 220, 160, 73, 45, 25. By the 3rd wash I have become an expert in collection but also never want to do it again. lol. 2 of the 3 washes have dried and I have 43.4g of bubble and 2.8g of dry sift. 37.4g of that bubble is able to be pressed into rosin. I will probably press that dry sift as well. The other stuff is 25u or 160u that I will experiment with or cook with. The other stuff is drying so I can't add it all in. I pressed a bunch of trim and some flower. The trim presses nice and the dab is decent. I am working out a good temp for the flower. But the problem with all these tests to find the sweet spot is that I have all these testers to go through but want to keep pressing and trying that! I think I will need to work on a better storage solution. I can't wait for the fresh frozen bubble hash rosin pressing... I have over 20gs of bubble to put in one bag. I am really looking forward to this. But I will need to work up to that pressing since I have never pressed hash/kief/bubble before in my rosin press. So this should be really fun. I will 100% post an update of the hash pressing once I do that and also after the 3rd wash session is done drying. In closing, saying I learned a lot from this grow would be an understatement. I fully expect to start it back up in a few weeks after some R&R then some R&D. There's some things I will need to work on before I start again, such as: having a single external reservoir that feeds multiple plants, hard to clog and easy to use ebb and flow system, miscellaneous final run stuff like space for drying. So thanks everyone for hanging out and perusing the photos and or reading all my huge rambling updates and thanks to those for the help along the way.

Ok so we're on day 44 of flower and she smells amazing packed full of frost. one pheno will be done a week early of the 55 day harvest time. The other pheno is way behind and will be 7-14 days past the 55 day harvest time. One pheno has far spaced out nodes with foxtailed buds. The others nodes are much closer together forming bigger colas..

It is never to late for a better house. I got a brand new #MarsHydroGrowTend 1m square and an Inline Duct Fan and Filter, so I decide to move everyone inside, even though the girls have only few days to go. I will be monitoring them close, just to check how they will react to the new environment. Day 78 - The plants were watered without nutrients.

hello guys, we really got to the limit I think! after 89 days, the first month of March was very cold and April not least !, I still managed to have a beautiful plant !!! and rich in trichomes, the smell is reminiscent of pine resin! and I can't wait to try. Sunday 9/6 cutting ... while in the indoor I'm growing the non-original seed born from a top, now I've passed it after 89 days of vegetative, in bloom it was full of primordial flowers! I think it will be a success !!!!, then I cut some branches I made 4 cuttings 1 of these is dead, the others continue on their way, for reasons of space they are already receiving even 12 hours of light .. .

Day 49 - Still have issues...3BOG is still yellowing on most leaves, 4AM is still showing slowly developing Mg deficiency, and Sour Stompers are still losing leaves but it seems to have slowed. I think the Sour Stompers might only have 2-3 weeks left so I'll start the flush soon and hope for the best. Fed 4AM & 3BOG 2tsp/gal Tiger Bloom mixed in 1.5 gallons water. pH: 6.5 Day 50 - Watered Sour Stompers with 1.5 gallons worm tea Day 53 - Leaf issues seem to have finally stopped on the 3BOG and slowed on the 4AM. Sour Stomper 1 looking really bad but I think I finally understand the multitude of issues I've created so hopefully I get them to recover enough to make it to harvest. Day 54 - Watered 3BOG & 4AM 1.5 gallons at 6.7 pH Day 55 - Looks like it's about time to start flushing the Sour Stompers. Watered them .75 gallons each at 6.7 pH

One has turned black in coulor while the other is still green both letting off nice berry flavours there building up thc nicely there the biggest in the tent