Girls doing well but have run into some calcium deficiency which will hopefully be fixed soon.

Let’s Go day 29!! This week went real nice ! Girls are staying very healthy and building up nicely and even started showing signs of female sex which is super great ! We started doing a little bit of leaf tuck training method on em , nothing to big as like I said I want these girls just to do there thang an grow more on naturally side! My Air temp and Humidity have been on point all week, staying from 70-75 degrees throughout the day and humidity staying around 58-61% humidity , my girls are loving that summer an 75 feeling !! Can’t wait to see what we do this week ! Hopefully you all enjoy, and are ready for another great productive week ! Peace love an positive vibes to y’all Cheers 😶‍🌫️💨💨💨💨🤙🏻Happy Grows✌️🏻Week 4 let’s get it !

******************************************** Week 17 Fade (week 11 flower) ******************************************** Light cycle=12/12 Light Power=100w 42% Extractor controller settings (during lights on). High temp= 25c Temp step=0c High Rh= 50% Rh step=0% Speed max=10 Speed min=5 Extractor controller settings (during lights off). High temp= 21c Temp step=0c High Rh= 55% Rh step=0% Speed max=10 Speed min=5 Smart controller settings (during lights on). Lights on=9.00am Radiator on= -22.c Radiator off=+22.5c Top fan on= Smart controller settings (during lights off). Lights off=9.00pm Radiator on=-19.0c Radiator off=+19.5c Top fan on VPD aim=1.0-1.4 DLI aim=30-40 EC aim=0.2-0.8 PH aim=6.0-6.5 💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧 NPK= 0-0-0 Method= Automatic Feed=Finishing nutes. Neutralise=0.1ml/L Flawless Finish=2ml/L Easy Ph down=0.02ml/L (1ml=24 drops, 1 drop=0.04ml) Easy Ph Up=0ml/L (1ml=24 drops, each drop is 0.04ml) Ec=0.34 PH=6.1/6.0 Runs=18 Run times=4mins (L/L each) Gap times=16 mins Total runtime=72mins(L/L each) Total flowrate= ml/min(ml/min each) Auto start time=10.00am Auto stop time=15.44pm 💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧 ******************************************** ******************************************** 📅26/1/25 Sunday (Day 113)(flower day 73) 📋 Put a few more stakes in. 📅27/1/25 Monday (Day 114)(flower day 74) 📋 📅28/1/25 Tuesday (Day 115)(flower day 75) 📋 Probably a few days left. 💧 Automatic finishing nutes Ph down=0.0ml/L, 0 drops Ec=0.3 PH=6.9/7.0 Volume=8.0L Volume left=2.5L Volume used=5.5L(90ml/min) Volume each=5.5L(90ml/min) Runoff. Total runoff=1.0L Ec=1.2 PH=/7.1 💧 📅29/1/25 Wednesday (Day 116)(flower day 76) 📋 She's getting cloudy, can't spot any Amber's yet, still a few white pistils left. I think I'll give her 3 more days as I need to get next grow going. 📅30/1/25 Thursday (Day 117)(flower day 77) 📋 📅31/1/25 Friday (Day 118)(flower day 78) 📋 She's done and is harvested today. Trichomes are mostly cloudy with the odd one going amber. ******************************************** Weekly roundup. 📋That's it she's been chopped, quite impressive. Back soon. Take it easy. ********************************************

They are chugging along!!!!

--

I was still dealing with lockout problems until the end of this week. I flushed everything with pH'ed water and after that, gave her 3L of 1ml/L nutrient solution to compensate the loss. We went from 5.9 to 6.3 soil pH and as you can see in the pictures, it stabilized. I am now very cautious of when and how I water and feed. I built some legs from ABS tubing for the elevated tray that helps when I want to empty the saucer. The light is at 70cm, 80% power for 650PPFD. I might invest in a CO2 reader to know if I could give her more. I have to adjust the power and distance of the light to get the adequate room temperature. I'm aiming for the highest difference between day and night. 2 more weeks of veg and depending on the size, I'll decide to switch or not.

Short Update: 12/12 yesterday Sanlight Mesh on 40% / in 10 days every week 10% more All looks fine. Giving them a light defolation tomorrow. Lollipoing in week three.

Water only 💦 1 or 2 weeks to harvest 🙌

Pistils spotted on 4/7 plants will veg 2 more weeks

Day 7. we will now move the cuts from under the t12 lights on the clone table to underneath the shade leaves of the mothers under a Mars 300 (150 hps equivalent). They will remain in the propagator until day 14 as they must wait for the girls currently occupying the pre-flower area to graduate to the flowering tent. We will still spray Clonex mist once every day until roots are visible

Overall she's been a champion 🏆 super frosty beautiful colors and structure perfect for training more next time

Ya estoy de vuelta y esta vez se trae la quinta semana de crecimiento de estas Casey’s rollex O.G. de Dutchfem. Están fenómeno los 3 ejemplares van al mismo ritmo y entre nudos tenemos muy poca distancia, se nota su genética indica, la temperatura va de 21/23 grados ya sea de día o de noche. . La humedad anda entre 50% y el ph está en 5,8/6,0. . AgroBeta: 1 ml x L Growth black line , vía radicular. 0,2 ml x L Tucán , vía radicular. 0,2 ml x L Flash Root , vía radicular. 0,05 ml x L Gold Joker, vía radicular. . Hasta aquí es todo familia, espero que os vaya gustando el proceso tanto de crecimiento como la futura floración 💨💨💨 buenos humos.

Semana 0 Del 3 al 9 de agosto Estamos en la semana 0 que va a ser la primera desde el cambio a 12h. Las temperaturas están siendo geniales y los LED ayudan bastante. Estamos en 26°C en ON y unos 24°C en OFF. Vimos que el último riego pudo ser demasiado potente y aprovechamos para hacer varias cosas. • La planta tiene 0 marcas de bichos, ni picaduras ni nada.. parece que los preventivos han funcionado bien, pero no bajamos la guardia. Espolvoreamos la capa de arriba del sustrato con tierra de diatomeas y humedecemos. Como el sustrato ya había bajado bastante, echamos una capa de sustrato ( monkey soil coco) y repetimos volvemos a espolvorear. • Realizamos riego con unos 2l casi. Usamos 0.16 Mammoth P + 1 calmax PH 6,2 EC: 0,4/0,6ms Th20: 23,5°C • Hoy soltamos todo el sistema LST. La idea es la siguiente: dejarle un día suelta descansando para que se estire un poco y luego colocarlas en su posición final. Parece que tiene forma de pino y cada rama esta cogiendo esa forma, por eso quiero estirar la un poco, para que tengan sitio. 5 de agosto Volvems a hacer el LST Pero esta vez con grapas de hierro, aprovechamos para dejar en posición. Mientras la entrenabamos quebrados el tallo central.. 6 de agosto Vemos que se posiciona mejor y aprovechamos para quitar algunas hojas y algún brote pequeño. Hoy a vuelto el calor pero aguantamos en unos 28,5°C de max. La humedad si he es alta, entorno al 70% 8 de agosto Hoy movemos un poco los brotes para que quede menos sombras. Aprovechamos para hacer un riego con 1,5l usando 5ml•l de Delta 9 PH 6,01 EC: 1,2ms Th20: 26,6°C El calor continúa y más o menos aguantamos las condiciones. 28°C y un 66% de humedad. Este riego de Delta 9 le sentará genial, se puede apreciar como siguen estirando los brotes de cada rama para coger su sitio de cara a florecer. Además la planta en general a engordado bastante en cuanto a tallo y ramas más fuertes. 9 de agosto Terminamos esta semana de perforación. Seguimos con el calor y la humedad, en ese sentido a sido un mal día. De temperatura rondamos los 28°C con una max de 30 y mínimas de 24,5°C (en OFF)*. La humedad a andado de 60/70%, esperamos que las condiciones mejoren cuando la flora sea mas avanzada. Hoy realizamos ultimo preventivo, unas 6h com el quemador de azufre para después de ventilar un rato hacer un foliar con 15ml spruzit + 2 aceite de neem + 2 un producto de prueba. Las sensaciones son tremendas y la verdad que nos lo estamos tomando con mucha ilusión porque esta quedando preciosa y respondiendo como un Jabato. El juego a empezado amigos, a partir de ahora empieza lo buenoo.

Protejere a mis nenas 2 semanas más seguirán en exterior pero las pondre en un lugar que no se mojen tanto con la lluvia igual aprovechare las lluvias para regarlas en cuanto necesiten agua estás bellezas y les he colocado un poco de lombricomposta esperando que tenga buen efecto en ellas.

HIGH LEVEL From EVA SEEDS 6th Jan 2020 ** Hi all I have done a couple of alterations since my last update , firstly I erected a greenhouse to cover all of my photo girls and I finally ended up transplanting plant number 2 . I ended up deciding to put her straight into the ground as I had nowhere else to put her to be honest. Since the transplant the new growth looks different than it was prior to the move. It could be completely unrelated to the transplant but if you look at pics 3&4 you will see the new growth I'm referring to. Plant 1 is really getting stinky even tho it's still in veg , just an accidental brush past her omits an incredible skunky smell which means she'll be very stinky during the actual flowering ( well that's what i reckon anyway) Plant 1 is a big girl and will almost certainly get much bigger once the flowering stretch begins next month. Thankyou for checking in and reading my latest update see you next week 👍

PURPLE KUSH / KANNABIA SEEDS WEEK #18 OVERALL WEEK #6 FLOWER This week was another good week for this lady a she's getting frosty and her buds are growing you can tell she's got that OG KUSH genetics as her buds are tight and smaller she's getting a nice aroma to her. Stay Growing!! Thank you for stopping by and taking a look it's much appreciated!! THANK YOU KANNABIA!! KANNABIA.COM PURPLE KUSH 💜

Week 7 flower - buds are fattening this week and smell is very strong. Two distinct phenos. I suspect a bit of nutrient burn so dialed back ec to 2.1-2.2.

Just started my account here! Might as well start where im at. 6 weeks in shes starting to swell. I found this seed in a bag of some good stuff.

Still at work, sorry bout the picture quality the old lady is taking pics for me, but it is much appreciated either way she could tell me to fuck off 😂😝 mould is starting on these girls so far not to bad from what she tells me. She was out cuttin it out this evening. We survived hurricane teddy without any damage!!!!! Wooooooo yea baby! One more week of work and I’ll be heading back home!

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.