la semana empiezan mostrando un estado muy bonito y gozan de humidificador nuevo. Primeras comprobaciones de temperatura y humedad con el humidificador al mínimo, como puede verse en la foto del dia antes, dia 15, apenas no ha cosumido nada de agua por lo que aumentaremos el caudal y tiempo en el temporizador analógico. Así aumentaremos también un poco más la humedad sin tantos altos y bajos Pasados unos 5 dias volví a podar dejando únicamente un nudo por planta y un doblado de ramitas. A los 21 dias volví a podar del primer nudo de cada rama, hojas y yemas.

Hey guys! Week 8 for the plant or week 3 of flower! 😍 And holy cow, these girls are growing fast, specially my baby that's on the front. And in fact, since they are so developed I decided to add some PK supplements slightly earlier and see how things go! On top of that both girls seem to have slightly different phenotypes, one of them is slowly turning purple while the other one is getting purplier leaves and trichomes, which I believe looks beautiful. I also defoliated and worked on the LST again, I need the lower buds to develop as well! Anyway, I hope you all enjoy the photos and see you all next week! 😊

This has been a busy week for the plant. She had her 2nd nodes removed, she was topped at the 4th, and lst set. She didn't even slow down through it all.

Week 1 rough start , I transplanted into final 3 gallon pot so I might have shocked her for a bit. Humidity and temperature is fluctuating a lot ..... worst part of having the tent on the balcony. Using a spray bottle twice a day 10-20 ml each time Growing in Pro-mix HP with Toronto tap water

The weather's finally starting to warm up. It feels so good to have the sun out and to open the windows. With all this extra sunshine, my pound cake plant is really taking off! It's growing so fast, and it's starting to look really full and healthy. I can almost see tiny buds on the ends of the branches - maybe it'll even have flowers soon!

Started off by setting up the growing environment and dialling everything in such as; RO Water for the RDWC hydroponic system. Water Heater being set at 20 degrees C. Water chiller being set at 21 degrees C. pH being set at 5.7/5.8 Room Temp and humidity 20/23 Degrees C / 60%/80%RH. Instead of using rockwool cubes to place my seeds, I put them directly into the clay pebbles. I then used a DIY humidity dome to place over the seeds until they make an appearance. I have been top feeding RO water every 6 hours. Foil was used to cover the net pot to ensure no light leaks were going into the system. Highly important in DWC. Will add some light nutrients once seeds are more established. Until the next one!

Let's get ready to grow. I think I'm going to mainline this guy.

by far the strongest and most vigorous of all my ladies. she is showing signs of flower more quickly than all the others

Ok, so what does CRI have to do with grow lighting? To consider this we need to first review what color rendering index or CRI is. Put simply it’s a performance metric or outcome that considers the ability of a light source to mimic sunlight, 100 cri is sunlight at midday, so approximately 5000 kelvins on a clear sunny day. So, if we know that perfect light that is 100cri is perfect for replicating true color for say photographic applications where subjects perfectly lit will reveal perfect color, then why as a metric is it important for use in grow lights? The fundamentals of light that mimics sunlight are referred to in the grow light community as wide or broad-spectrum light. That is to say, all the wavelengths of sunlight at 100 CRI would be perfectly represented and would therefore provide a light that is sunlight, artificially produced. Ok so is CRI the nirvana of plant performance? Not quite. Let’s consider missing ingredients. OK so measurement devices used for CRI are typically based around what is referred to as PAR. PAR stands for Photosynthetically Active Radiation. and it refers to the portion of the light spectrum (wavelengths) that plants use for photosynthesis. Specifically, it covers wavelengths between 400 and 700 nanometers (nm), which is the range most beneficial for plant growth. While PAR (Photosynthetically Active Radiation) focuses on the 400–700 nanometer (nm) range of the light spectrum, it does however not cover all wavelengths that might influence plant growth. Here’s what PAR leaves out when considering a full-spectrum light source for grow lighting: UV-A (315–400 nm), UV-B (280–315 nm), and UV-C (280 nm). Benefits to Plants: UV-A and UV-B can stimulate secondary metabolite production (e.g., flavonoids, anthocyanins, and terpenes), enhancing plant color, flavor, and pest resistance. Far-Red Light –Light in the 700–800 nm range. Benefits to Plants: Stimulates the shade-avoidance response, helping plants grow taller or stretch toward light. Enhances flowering and fruiting when combined with red light in the Emerson Effect (synergy between red and far-red light to increase photosynthetic efficiency). Limitations: Too much far-red can lead to elongated, weak plants with reduced yield. It’s a balancing act UV-B may act as a stressor to trigger protective responses in plants, leading to increased resilience. Limitations: Excess UV can damage plant tissues and reduce growth if not carefully managed. Infrared (IR) Radiation – Beyond 800 nm What It Is: Heat-emitting wavelengths beyond visible light. Benefits to Plants: Infrared contributes to overall warmth, which can aid plant development in cool environments. Limitations: Excessive infrared can overheat plants, leading to water stress or damage. Green Light – Often Underrepresented in PAR Measurements What It Is: 500–600 nm, technically part of PAR but often undervalued. Role in Full Spectrum: Penetrates deeper into the plant canopy than red or blue light. Vital for photosynthesis in lower leaves and shaded areas. Misconception: Traditional PAR models underestimate green light’s contribution to photosynthesis. Beyond PAR: Signals and Stress Responses Non-Photosynthetic Effects: Wavelengths outside PAR can affect: Circadian rhythms in plants. Photomorphogenesis (plant shape and structure development). Hormonal responses and stress adaptation. Importance in Full-Spectrum Grow Lighting: A full-spectrum light source includes UV, visible light (400–700 nm, encompassing PAR), and far-red/infrared light. This comprehensive coverage ensures: Enhanced photosynthesis (beyond traditional PAR efficiency). Improved plant quality (color, taste, aroma). Support for natural plant growth cycles and stress responses. To optimize plant health, growth, and productivity, it’s essential to balance PAR with these additional wavelengths based on the specific needs of your plants and growth stage. As indoor gardening gains momentum, the quest for lighting solutions that emulate natural sunlight intensifies. High Color Rendering Index (CRI) LEDs emerge as a forefront solution, boasting a CRI of 90 or above, making them capable of producing light remarkably similar to natural sunlight. Ultra-high CRI LEDs, with ratings of 95 to 98, push this similarity even further, offering an unparalleled approximation of sunlight’s full spectrum. Advantages and Challenges of High CRI LEDs Benefits of High CRI LEDs Natural Light Simulation: These LEDs excel in replicating the broad spectrum of sunlight, crucial for photosynthesis and overall plant health. Energy Efficiency: High CRI LEDs outperform traditional lighting in lumens per watt, offering substantial electricity savings. Durability: With a lifespan extending years beyond their fluorescent counterparts, these LEDs represent a long-term investment in indoor gardening. Considerations for High CRI LEDs Initial Cost: The upfront cost of Higher CRI LEDs can make you total system cost higher however the price gap is reducing Heat Generation: Although they produce less heat than traditional lights, managing heat emission is still necessary for sensitive plants. Light Spectrum: While they mimic sunlight, High CRI LEDs might not offer the exact wavelength needed for optimal plant growth, potentially necessitating supplemental lighting or nutrients. Efficacy of High CRI LEDs in Plant Growth The effectiveness of High CRI LEDs varies with plant species, growth stages, and required light intensity. Studies, such as those conducted by the University of Florida and the University of Arkansas, demonstrate that High CRI LEDs can surpass traditional lighting in growing lettuce, basil, and strawberries, improving both yield and quality. Natural Sunlight Versus High CRI LEDs Though High CRI LEDs adeptly imitate sunlight, they cannot entirely replicate its spectrum and intensity. Natural sunlight provides a more comprehensive range of wavelengths, contributing to vigorous plant growth. Nonetheless, High CRI LEDs offer a viable alternative when sunlight is unavailable, presenting a more consistent light source across seasons. Nutrient Dynamics Under High CRI Lighting The broad spectrum of High CRI LEDs influences plant nutrient requirements. For instance, a University of Helsinki study revealed tomato plants under High CRI lighting demanded more calcium, attributing to improved fruit quality. This indicates a shift in nutrient management strategies when transitioning from traditional to High CRI LED lighting. Top Ten Reasons for Opting for High CRI LED Lighting Enhanced Plant Growth: Closely mimics sunlight’s spectrum, vital for various growth stages. Improved Visual Inspection: Easier monitoring of plant health and early detection of issues. Increased Yield: Potential for higher production due to efficient photosynthesis. Better Pollination Management: More natural lighting conditions could improve pollinator efficiency. Superior Quality: Enhanced color, taste, and nutritional content of produce. Energy Efficiency: Significant savings on electricity costs. Extended Lifespan: Reduces the frequency of light replacement. Lower Heat Emission: Minimizes risk to heat-sensitive plants. Versatility: Suitable for a wide range of horticultural activities. Environmental Benefits: Lower carbon footprint and reduced electronic waste. In Summary, we can ask what HI CRI brings to the conversation. Many standard grow lights use lower base CRI for example 70, 80, and 90 cri. This is a common strategy to increase efficiency. The use of newer phosphors like KSF negates the differences of efficacy in higher CRI LED’s. It’s clear that ignoring CRI as part of your lighting recipe reduces your spectrum breadth irrespective of wavelengths outside the par range, meaning use of all wavelengths in a complete lighting system that includes broad spectrum white can’t help but improve your total plant performance.

Début de la floraison à la 6eme semaine

9/3 Shook the plants off this morning and took a few pics and did a video. Let's see if it uploads. Plants are doing good. Toasted toffy is due for another plant doctor application tonight. It seems like I'm losing lots of leaves. Looking back on my other diaries I guess it's normal. BUT I could've had pest/pathogen problems then. I'm over thinking it. Toasted toffy only needs a few more weeks. It will definitely outvrun the disease. The nugs are super dense too. The plant in the 50 is loosing leaves faster than I'd like. It is also one of the furthest along. The big leaves that turn yellow look like it's a calcium/magnesium issue. The stalk and branches are all bright green and healthy looking. So are the flowers. It could be something below the soil. I couldve been overwatering but last time I waited until it drooped. It will be fine though. I'm happy with my results so far. Not my best or biggest year but I'm going to put in the work and Mae these plants produce the best quality cannabis that im able too. Also I think plant doctor may kill insects. K bicarb with dawn does too. I've found a few dead bugs like flies and pillars. Pillars actually seem to be gone. Not many moths either. Unless I see them I'm not going to treat them for it. This is that magical time where you get to watch the plant produce those beautiful flowers. Despite some small problems I'm very grateful for what I have. I've worked hard for it. 9/4 Watered everything but the sherb pie which was still heavy with leaves yellowing. It's tied for the furthest behind in flower with the seed in the 10. I treated the toasted toffy with 1/4 gallon (4tsp/gallon) of plant doctor. I avoided flowers as much as possible and tried to just get a few leaves. I used the rest on the soil. I just wanted it to absorb a little faster. That's why I sprayed the foliage. It's not 4 days it's 14 days when tje plant doctor just leaves behind a bunch of potassium and phosphorus after it's done its job. Can't be used in a 14 day interval with copper and I think that's what treats septoria best. I dontvknow if I can use that in flower. Doesn't really matter. Things are looking good. Plant Doctor and the K bicarb seem to be doing there job effectively as long as i stick to the application times. I made a short video but didn't upload. I'll try again but I may have some medical emergencies that need to be dealt with. If not I should defoliate and tie down some event horizon branches. I thought about treating the other event horizon as well. I'm not positive it has septoria but it wouldn't hurt anything to be practice. It AT LEAST has a couple suspucuous spots. I smelled a skunk as soon as I got out of my car. It can't get in my grow but I might put out traps to catch it. We'll see how it goes. Video seems to be uploading. It's at 31% so I'll wait for it. I think I've got like four or five weeks on my toasted toffy and one event horizon and the one in the 50 that I THINK is red runtz. That's good that I'll have different plants to harvest at different times. It's seeds from here on out though. It was hard to find info on some of the strains I'm growing but they all have ONE thing in common. They are EXOTIC and they are at least MODERATELY DIFFICULT to grow. AT LEAST lol. Last year I picked the right seefs and strains and it greatly helped. Still, if these are difficult strains to grow, then I'm doing a good job. EDIT: I WAS STONED BUT IM PRETTY SURE I TREATED THE PLANT IN THE 50 WITH PLANT DOCTOR. DIDNT SPRAY BUDS. TRIED TO GET THE LEAVES THEN USED THE REST ON THE SOIL. I REMEMBER BECAUSE A STREAM ACCIDENTLY HIT A COUPLE LEAVES ON THE HUGE PLANT IN THE 10. 9/5 Sherb Pie was light and drooping. It's not to far in flower and still seemed moist yesterday with a little bit of weight. I watered it a gallon. I defoliated a little but I need to go through that plant. I have a bunch of plants that need a little work. The 50 gal seed is losing lots of leaves. I must not be feeding it enough, overwatering or maybe theres some sort of lock out. The plant looks nice and healthy. Leaves just turn yellow and die. Looked like a calcium or magnesium deficiency but i saw a septoria spot. I wouldn't think I've over feed or locked out using the small amounts of nutes I've used. It will be time to feed again soon. It's in the middle of flowering and still has leaves. I'm hoping things work out. I just have an anxiety disorder and worry too much. I'm GOING To have a great harve! I just need to keep moving forward and putting in the work. 9/6 What a fucking shitty morning. I did research on how to keep skunks out of your garden. Because I smelled it and the neighbors shot a few. Dad put traps out and it caught one. It wasn't a no spray trap so I approached it with him. Both had tarps. I kept telling him to throw it while I was distracting it bur he got a cramp and only got it over half. The half away from my garden. It's pretty far and down in a field but still. We had talked all morning about how to release it. I offered to drive their dog to take it for a walk so his alcoholic girlfriend wouldn't spiteful put the dog on its run. It wouldn't be sprayed but I made it out like it would ruin my plants. Picked dad up and got him to the bathroom. In that 30 seconds the stupid bitch grabbed the dog and brought it outside despite me YELLING "Can't you wait 5 minutes!? We've been dealing with this all morning. I heard fuck you in my head and she did it anyway. Dog ran at the skunk barking and it sprayed. Not a lot but I was fucking pissed. She's a full blown alcoholic and doesn't like me around early or the fact that my old man's 80 and house is mine. Anyway I got back and there was NO SKUNK SMELL. AT ALL! I WATERED EVERYTHING BUT SHERB PIE AND FED EVERYTHING BUT SHERB PIE. ILL FEED AND WATER THAT TOMORROW. WATERED A GALLON WITH A QUART OF FEED. Researched my strains found out they were all "difficult" to grow. One year ago to the Day I cut my first tenth planet. I got a couple close to a few weeks but the others will be later. If I can pull this off though I'll have some crazy quality! Grateful for what I have that's for sure! I doubled beastie bloom this time. We'll see how it goes.nothings uploading. I did some vids a pictures but I'll have to upload today. 9/7 I think it rained last night. I forgot to water and feed the sherb pie but I'll do it when I get back. I shook off the plants the best I could. I need to get the leaf blower out now and put it to use. Buds are swelling like crazy. GMOs are very tight flowers. Same with the event horizon. Rock hard nugs. With the gmo's I'm not worried. The were monster cropped so they have enough leaves even if some do die off. The toasted toffy only has like four weeks left. Same with the event horizon. The plant in the ten is the furthest behind but it's extremely healthy. I removed some leaves from the bottom and large fan leaves. The plant in the 50 I hope finishes before it loses all its leaves. I treated it with plant doctor and SOME people strip their plants but I don't. I'm grateful for what I've got. Won't be the biggest harvest but WHEN I make it to the finish line I will have some incredibly potent strains. I'm proud of myself to even get these to finish seeingvthe level of difficulty on cultivation. I'm trying to upload some stuff. We'll see. 9/8 Apparently it rained pretty hard last night. Took forever to go through and shake everything off and defoliate what needs it. Sherb pie is praying to the sky and almost totally purple. It's flowering so much more in the last couple days. Everything has. Even the one in the ten is stacking up! I defoliated most of what needed it and I was soaked. I noticed a branch on the middle gmo that was getting heavy and starting to break away from the trunk. It wad wobbly but I don't think there was a break un the Cambrian. I made a sling with rope (couldn't find zip ties) and I pulled it tight amd secured that branch to the tomato cage. GMO buds are hard as rocks. Everything is in overdrive. They liked that beastie bloom. I have cha ching but nothings ready for that yet I don't think. We'll the event horizon and toasted toffy might be I'll have to check. It's been beautiful today but not too hot. Lots of wind which is good. I'll upgrade supports as needed. Flowers are progressing at an amazing rate. Weather is supposed to be great the next few days. I'll keep this updated. 9/9 Had to shake the plants off. WATERED EVERYTHING BUT THE SHERB PIE WHICH WAS REALLY HEAVY. It's also lost a lot of leaves and the majority of leaves have turned purple. Toasted toffy and event horizon and red runts are pretty far into flower. I tried to take some pictures. Even the ten is blowing up! That looks like I'm going to switch to cha ching when flower gets further. Trichs are developing nicely on the ones further in flower. This year it's going to be quality over quantity. All these strains are ranked HARD to grow but have insane cannabinoid profiles and high THC %'s. So if I can keep it together for another month I'll be golden. Looking forward to it. This is the fun part. It's also the anxiety provoking part. I've learned a lot just since joining grow diaries.

Flushed Critical Lemon with Flawless Finish and ph'ed water for about a week. Cut everything off the large stems and air dried/cured. Amnesia is looking ultra thicc and I started to flush those plants out. Skunk 47 looks like it needs at least another week before its flushed.

I love this auto so much! I’m scared to defol her at this stage don’t want to trigger any stress until the buds are more formed! But all in all I think I’m in for a great harvest!! My auto training is complete! I know what I’m doing with these girls now!

they said that from seed to harvest 8 weeks and my titan is already 10 weeks old, strange. it looks healthy so it's probably ok. 🤘✌️

the 4th seed has joined the party and everything looks fantastic!!!! Gotta get a Halloween photoshoot going!!!!

She smell so so so strong that doesn't even look like an automatic strain,super strong mango smell coming off the flowers,I'm doing a perfect job here,she's happy and she's giving the best of her! 🌱💚#organics

Продолжил промывку водой. Сделал растению 48 часов темноты.