Day 22, 8th of October 2020: Ajjjjjjjjj..... Smthg happened to me that never before. Tricky story. 2 days ago I watered her more a bit also placed closer to the lamp. Yesterday I saw the leaves started wilting and the lowest ones yellowing. I thought I overwatered her so let her all night and today checked seeing she looks worse ... I was like what the fuck.... I removed her from the pot it was not overwatering problem it was underwatering problem. The soil was like the desert ... But how? Just watered her recently may be because I have placed closer to the lamp. It was also suspicious because this pot has no holes at all so thought not able to drain. No....She is very thirsty ..😅 I just gave her a lot and wahoo she has woken up! That is the reason of those yellow leaves are at the bottom. The girl in the picture just recovered 3 hours ago she looked like a dead wilting plant.... omg... I wanted to do main-lining today but need to be delayed she needs to recover 😩 so I will do it 2 days later ... Apart from that she is totally cool 😎 Beautiful :) And yes everything continues the same way :) Day 23, 9th of October 2020: Alright... she is cool today I managed to do Main-lining. :)

Bonjour à tous les padawans et les maîtres jedis Jour42 ma plante entre bien en floraison je pratique sur elle une defolliation pour permettre aux têtes de prendre la lumière La floraison des plantes de cannabis La plante de cannabis passe par différentes étapes de vie avant de parvenir à la récolte. Ces étapes sont : la germination, la pré-croissance, la croissance et la floraison. Pour les autofloraisons il n'est pas nécessaire d'avoir de changer le cycle de lumière elle entre en floraison automatiquement voilà d'où elle tient son nom "d'autofloraison" L'origine de l'auto-floraison vient de la sous-espèce "cannabis sativa ruderalis" , qui à l'origine produit de très faibles niveaux de THC. C'est en croisant cette variété de marijuana avec d'autres qui produisent des niveaux de THC plus élevés qu'à vu le jour ce magnifique compromis que sont les variétés auto-fleurissantes avec des taux de THC très satisfaisants. En parallèle, cela a permis d'améliorer la production de ces variétés, qui initialement étaient exceptionnellement basse. Pour des résultats optimaux, en culture Outdoor (extérieur), je recommande que la germination des graines de marijuanaAuto-flo se fasse entre avril et août. En culture Indoor(intérieur), la photopériode idéale que ce soit pour la croissance comme pour la floraison est de 20h de lumière. N'oubliez pas que ces graines ne sont pas tributaires de la photopériode pour passer en floraison. Il est préférable d'utiliser des pots d'une capacité de 10 à 20L dès le début, étant donné que leur cycle de vie est réduit, les auto-flo n'ent pas besoin de plus de volume pour se développer. Vu sa petite taille (et la discrétion) elle fait l'objet d'un bon choix pour la culture de cannabis sur balcons. La première variété de Lowryder auto-floraison a été créé à partir de cannabis indica sativa croisé avec des génétiques de cannabis sativa rudelaris par la banque de graines de marijuana "The Joint Doctor". Puis vinrent la White Dwarf de "Buddha Seeds", la Roadrunnerde "Dinafem", l' Auto Stoned d' "Autofem", la Speed Devil de "Sweet Seeds" , la Maxi Gom de "Grassomatic", la Flash, la Gnomo de Kannabiaet bien d'autres. Jour42 defolliation (video) Avant toute chose n'oublions pas de bien désinfecter ses outils et bien ce laver les mains. Quesque la defolliation ? LES CULTIVATEURS AMATEURS, PRENEZ GARDE, MAIS NE PRENEZ PAS PEUR La défoliation consiste à retirer les feuilles des plants de cannabis en intérieur afin d'accroître le rendementfinal. Le cultivateur amateur doit faire preuve de vigilance lorsqu'il commence à appliquer cette technique de taille. Malgré le débat sans fin entre ceux qui prônent cette technique et ceux qui la dénigre, il n'y aucune raison pour qu'un amateur ne s'y essaie pas afin de voir si ça lui convient ou non. COMMENT DÉFOLIER Que vous tailliez les feuilles ou les branches des plants de cannabis, il vaut mieux utiliser un sécateur stérile qui est confortable en main. Arracher des feuilles à la main manque de finesse et engendre souvent par accident, l'arrachement des couches d'une tige en plus de la feuille. L'objectif principal de la défoliation est de permettre une meilleure pénétration de la lumière et de promouvoir la production de plus grosses têtes. Les feuilles éventails qui font de l'ombre doivent être retirées. Tailler la tige principale et/ou les pousses secondaires n'est pas de la défoliation. La règle d'or lorsque vous donnez à vos plantes un rafraîchissement est de commencer avec les feuilles nourricières les plus grandes et les plus larges, en taillant du bas vers le haut. Il est important de retirer les feuilles stratégiquement et non pas au hasard. Pensez également qu'il vous faut limiter votre rafraîchissement à approximativement 10 à 20 % des feuilles totales de votre pied. Il est très facile de s'emporter durant la taille et de se retrouver avec des plantes chauves. Un excès de taille de feuilles empêchera la photosynthèse et paralysera vos plants. QUAND FAUT-IL DÉFOLIER Il est assez rare d'appliquer la défoliation comme seule technique pour obtenir un fort rendement. La taille des feuilles est généralement associée à d'autres méthodes de tailles et de palissage pour un meilleur rendement telles que le topping ou étêtage, le FIMming, le LST, le manifolding, le supercropping et le ScrOG. Les cultivateurs utilisant la méthode ScrOG auront besoin de retirer toutes les croissances inférieures ainsi que les feuilles et les tiges se trouvant sous le filet. Les plants de cannabis peuvent être défoliés dès lors qu'ils sont passés de la phase de plantule vers la phase de croissance végétative. Cependant, il est recommandé aux cultivateurs amateurs de laisser aux plantes 1 à 2 semaines de croissance végétative avant de s'attaquer à la défoliation de celles-ci. De plus, certaines variétés sont plus sensibles à la taille que d'autres et de ce fait, seront plus stressées par la taille des feuilles. Surveillez minutieusement le comportement de vos plants après la taille. Une période de convalescence de minimum 3 à 7 jours avant de recommencer la défoliation est fortement recommandée pour éviter trop de stress aux plants. Les cultivateurs peuvent également défolier pendant la phase de floraison, ce qui permettra à l'énergie de la plante d'être concentrée vers la production de têtes tout en limitant l'ombre et l'excès d'humidité. Néanmoins, il est important de ne pas défolier trop tard sous peine de simplement blesser ses plants inutilement. LES AVANTAGES DE LA DÉFOLIATION Évidemment, l'avantage numéro un de la défoliation, c'est l'augmentation du potentiel de rendement de cette technique de taille pour tous types de cannabis allant de la photopériode aux variétés autofloraison. Ce n'est pas un secret que les fleurs qui reçoivent plus de lumières deviennent plus grandes et larges que celles dissimulées dans l'ombre des feuilles. De plus, retirer les feuilles intérieures des plants touffus aide à prévenir toutes menaces de moisissure. Les plants très feuillus avec un feuillage intérieur dense produiront une quantité importante de têtes pop-corn. Dans le pire des cas, les branches de têtes et les têtes qui sont denses succomberont au pourrissement. Si vous observez des gouttes d'eau se former sur la surface des feuilles, il est grand temps de penser à faire de la défoliation. Libérer la zone inférieure et médiane des feuilles est un excellent moyen d'améliorer la circulation de l'air. LES DÉSAVANTAGES DE LA DÉFOLIATION Les plants de cannabis en intérieur bénéficient de la défoliation pour deux raisons. La première est parce qu'ils reçoivent la lumière d'une source stationnaire au-dessus d'eux, et la deuxième est parce que les conditions environnementales sont contrôlées par le cultivateur et non Mère Nature. Les plants d'extérieurs eux, n'y gagnent pas beaucoup, car les cas échéants se vérifient pour eux. Le soleil traverse le ciel, illuminant sur sa route, différentes portions de la plante de son lever à son coucher. Les cultivateurs en extérieur n'ont pas besoin de manipuler les plantes afin qu'elles se développent en adoptant une structure plate puisque le soleil est infiniment plus puissant que n'importe quelle lampe de culture et qui plus est, il est toujours en mouvement. Tailler les feuilles des plants extérieurs les rend également plus vulnérables aux conditions humides et brise leurs barrières naturelles contres les nuisibles. De nombreux cultivateurs d'intérieur peuvent, et malheureusement, c'est souvent le cas, réduire le rendement final à cause d'une défoliation faite au mauvais moment et/ou excessive. Tailler les plantules n'est pas conseillé et engendre souvent des plants nains. Scalper les plants matures est encore pire, et au lieu d'obtenir de longues branches de têtes, vous obtiendrez probablement encore moins de fleurs. De même, tailler des plants malades ou en mauvaise santé à n'importe quelle période de la croissance risque de paralyser la croissance plutôt que d'encourager la formation de fleurs denses. Jour44 Arrosage une fois sur 2 topmax de biobizz Jour46 arrosage avec de l'eau ph6.3 à laquelle j'ajoute 0.8g par litre d'eau de feeding enhancer greenhouse. Jour47 léger arrosage. Jour48 léger arrosage

🌿💋 Otra semanita más con nuestra Kiss de @kannabiaglobal y sigue poniéndose guapa 💋🌿 La Kiss está sacando su lado más dulce, gente. Los cogollos se están poniendo cada vez más gorditos y llenos de resina, y el aroma que empieza a soltar ya es una locura. Un toque dulce con fondo herbal que te dan ganas de cosecharla ya, pero aún le daremos un poquito más de amor. 🌱✨ Esta semana se ha notado cómo las flores están apretándose y cubriéndose de tricomas. Se ve saludable, vibrante y sigue mostrando ese verdor intenso. Cada día más cerca de la recompensa, ¡esto promete! 🙌🔥 #KissCannabis #KannabiaGlobal #SeguimientoDeCultivo #Floracion #CannabisGro

Aug 5: first night using far red light. Very trippy.

Hello 👋 and welcome back. I've been really, really stoned for a month or two. I do enjoy a good cleaning. No need to be rushing this one, I've got a lot of stuff to tweak in the grow tent. Give it a good scrub to boot. Added a bunch of organic amendments to the medium and reloaded mineral content. Giving it a few weeks to let everything break down, settle in, and balance out before beginning, I'll be doing a thorough pH and EC prior to placing anything in the final pot and making sure to give it a good till in the top soil once everything is broken down into more palatable size. Organic fertilizer = organic matter that's still in the process of breaking down. Mineral fertilizer = salt mineral that's already broken down and ready for uptake in its current form. Synthetic mineral fertilizer = man-made minerals ready for uptake in their current form. Synthetic concentrated fertilizer = man-made concentrates that don't exist in nature. Adding this grow. 500g Horticultural charcoal. 454g Elite Shungite Coal (Fullerene C60). 1kg Spirulina is approx NPK 10%, 100g/1kg (N), 20% 200g/1kg (P), and 20% 200g/1kg (K). In 1 kg (1000g) of spirulina, you can expect approximately 50 mg to 177 mg of Zeaxanthin. 1 kg of moringa powder, approximate NPK : 4.8% N, 0.5% P, and 1.9% K. 500g Azomite. (Ultimate mineral micro nutrient). 1kg of Gaia green 4-4-4, 1kg of 4-4-4 fertilizer contains 4% which is equivalent to 40 grams of each in 1000g. 500g eggshells, 20grams of calcium per 500g. Generally, the more organic matter a plant breaks down, the higher the soil's electrical conductivity (EC) tends to be. This is because the breakdown of organic matter releases nutrients into the soil solution, which increases the concentration of dissolved ions that conduct electricity. Roots and microorganisms do not directly compete for electrical conductivity itself. However, they do interact in the rhizosphere, a zone around plant roots where microbes and plants compete for resources like nutrients and water, which can indirectly influence electrical conductivity. Plant roots release exudates (carbon) into the soil, providing energy and nutrients for microbes. In return, microbes can help plants access nutrients, particularly in the rhizosphere, where nutrient availability can be high. Both roots and microbes compete for the same resources, such as phosphorus (P) and iron (Fe). Factors like microbial decomposition of plant-derived chelators and the proximity of microbes to the root surface can influence this competition. Carbon 60 (Fullerene) can enhance plant growth by boosting microbial activity in the soil, improving water retention, and even increasing plant biomass and yield. It's not a fertilizer, but rather a soil amendment that acts as an ideal companion product for fertilization programs. Studies have shown that fullerenes can influence soil bacterial communities and potentially activate processes like nitrogen transformation in the soil. Some research suggests that fullerenes can increase the availability of nutrients and enhance plant growth. Buckminsterfullerene is a type of fullerene with the formula C60. It has a cage-like fused-ring structure (truncated icosahedron) made of twenty hexagons and twelve pentagons, and resembles a soccer ball. Each of its 60 carbon atoms is bonded to its three neighbors. Shungite coal, particularly the "precious Shungite" variety, is known to contain fullerenes, with a higher content found in Shungite of category 3. The most common fullerene, C60 (also known as buckminsterfullerene or a buckyball), is a well-studied example. The influence of water-soluble carboxylated light fullerene derivatives on the physiological plant state is not well studied. The addition of Spirulina is primarily for zeaxanthin, as it contains a lot. But on top of that, Hawaiian Spirulina is cultivated in open ponds using a combination of 100% fresh potable water from Hawaiian aquifers and ultra-pure, deep ocean water containing all 94 trace minerals & elements. It is then gently dried using patented Ocean Chill Drying technology and cold-pressed to ensure maximum nutrient levels. Spirulina, a blue-green alga, is rich in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (NPK), making it an excellent source of nutrients for plant growth. Studies have shown that Spirulina can be used as a biofertilizer, effectively replacing chemical fertilizers, especially for nitrogen with a whopping, NPK of 10% (N), 20% (P), and 20% (K). Azomite needs no introduction; Just incase, Azomite delivers 70+ minerals and trace elements to boost BRIX, root strength, soil vitality, and yields. Micronized. Moringa is a highly nutrient-dense plant, often called the "miracle tree" or "tree of life" due to its impressive nutritional profile and potential health benefits. It's particularly rich in vitamins, minerals, antioxidants, and other bioactive compounds, making it a valuable resource for addressing malnutrition and promoting overall health. Containing over 92 verifiable nutrients, Moringa oleifera is found to be the most nutrient-dense plant on earth. As far as we know this is the only place online where we list all 92 (and more) nutrients of the Moringa tree and we list all 46 antioxidants of the Moringa tree too. Deep in the Himalayas is a tree called Moringa oleifera, also known as the drumstick tree, and throughout the subtropics, this tree is cultivated for its amazing health benefits. This amazing tree has the ability to grow in an array of conditions, and its health benefits are astonishing. The drumstick tree contains a staggering 92 nutrients and 46 natural antioxidants and as it also holds a number of anti-inflammatory compounds. The sheer number of nutrients found in this tree brings it to the top of the superfoods list, and in its native locations, it is said to have the ability to help treat more than 300 diseases and illnesses. To give you an idea, just a single serving of the Moringa tree contains: 4 times the amount of calcium in the same amount of milk. More vitamin C than 7 oranges. Double the protein and 3 times the amount of potassium in a banana. It's high antioxidant levels can help fight free radicals, potentially slowing down the ageing process and promoting longevity. It is thought to be able to help lower cholesterol levels and regulate blood pressure, due to the high levels of niacin and vitamins B3 and B10. A serving of 100g of this tree gives: Over 8g protein Over 400mg potassium Nearly 450mg calcium 164mg vitamin C 738 ¼g of vitamin A. Moringa also contains vitamins B1, B2, B3, B6, B7, A, C, K, E and D. Amino Acids: In addition, it contains various other nutrients, including the following essential amino acids: Threonine – a nutrient that helps metabolism and prevents fatty buildup in the liver. It also aids digestion. Isoleucine – good for a healthy brain and helps to give the body natural energy. Leucine – works hand in hand with isoleucine to increase energy levels. Phenylalanine – aids communication between the brain’s nerve cells and also helps to reduce hunger pangs as well as increasing alertness and improving memory. Tryptophan – supports your immune system, and its mood boosting ability helps to beat depression and anxiety-associated insomnia. It also reduces the risk of heart attack and lowers bad cholesterol levels. Lysine – aids the absorption of calcium into the bones, supports antibodies and regulates various hormones as well as inhibiting the growth of virus cells. Methionine – provides the body with sulphur as well as helping to lower cholesterol. It also supports the liver, kidneys, and helps keep skin, hair and nails healthy. Valine – helps to keep the mind calm. There are other amino acids in Moringa too, which are not essential to the body but are still beneficial in supporting health. These include histidine, alanine, glutamic acid, arginine, cysteine, proline, aspartic acid, glycine, serine, and tyrosine. Moringa seeds contain oils that hold high levels of oleic acid, which may act to reduce inflammation. https://amchara.com/detox-cleanse/92-nutrients-and-46-antioxidants-in-one-tree-maringa-oleifera/ 4.8% N, 0.5% P, and 1.9% K. Moringa can also serve as a natural source of nitrogen, potentially replacing chemical fertilizers. About 95% of the dry eggshell is calcium carbonate weighing 5.5 grams. The average eggshell contains about . 3% phosphorus and . 3% magnesium and traces of sodium, potassium, zinc, manganese, iron and copper. 1 ppm in water (mg/L) = 1 ppm in soil (mg/kg) If you use 10 grams of 10-20-20 fertilizer in 4 liters of water: Nitrogen: (10 grams * 10/100 * 1000000) / 4000 mL = 2500 ppm N Phosphorus: (10 grams * 20/100 * 1000000) / 4000 mL = 5000 ppm P Potassium: (10 grams * 20/100 * 1000000) / 4000 mL = 5000 ppm K In summary, to determine the precise ppm of an NPK fertilizer, you need to know the specific weight of fertilizer used, the volume of water, and the NPK percentages. The general formula and example calculations can help you make these conversions.

Starting off week 9 and I'm impatient! This plant has been amazing since day 1. Came out super weird colored and finishing off with this beautiful purple! Will be growing this strain again for sure

Week 3 💚 8th - 15th of February 2021

Hi everyone 🤗. They continued to develop well this week 👍. Slowly they stop growing and put their energy into flower production. So that this energy is not wasted, the lowest shoots on which only popcorn buds grow anyway have been removed. Next week the new update will follow as usual, stay healthy 🙏🏻 and let it grow 🌱 You can buy this Strain at : www.Zamnesia.com Type: Runtz ☝️🏼 Genetics: Zkittlez x Gelato 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205 W 💡💡☝️🏼 Soil : Canna Bio ☝️🏼 Nutrients : Canna Bio ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 6.0 - 6.3

The plants seemed to be hungry this week even though they have been given the correct dose of dry amendments. I have started to feed them my usual Organic feed as well. They are now putting on weight and colour. Removed some dead leaves and they seem ok. Also starting to smell now.

Hello, readers! I've been in a different country this week, so I didn't keep an eye on Mirra. However, my friend came few times to take pictures and add new solution. Because of that I don't know precise temp and humidity. Also I decided not to train the plant, because my friend would've struggle to fix the wires, while the plant grows. I also switched to 35 liters, as I wanted before. Now I have 3 air-pump, each of it consumes 3watt and blows 2.5-3 liter per minute. So, in my calculations it should be enough air. Preflower started 😍 Feeding: I decided to experiment with food. I have some new fertilizers which are waaaay(~50 times) cheaper than the weed-fertilizers. Let's test it. It's recommended dosage of mixing is 10gr/liter to get this NPK proportions per liter. In fact 1 gr/liter of this nutrients rises PPM by 350. And one of them slightly lowering PH, which is good for me. NPK20, B 0.01, Cu 0.02, Fe 0.04, Mn 0.01, Mo 0.002, Zn 0.002 - 30 gr to 35 liters. Or 0.85 gr/liter. N 15.5 CaO 26 - 10 gr to 35 liters. or 0.28 gr/liter.

🔥💯🍻

Hello, fellow growers I thank you for having dedicated your attention to my garden. We tried to do some order to distinguish the genetics, the Epic buds are with brown pots

Welcome to my autø Møøn Røck 2 Diary. In this Diary: Seeds: Sponsored by Ðivine Seeðs Media: Pro~Mix HP *•ns Nutrients: Remo Supercharged Kit *•ns *•not sponsored ___________________________ Feeding: Wed 16Oct: 2L Remo/Recharge pH'd 6.5 Sat 19Oct: 2L Remo/Recharge pH'd 6.5 ___________________________ Did some minor defoliation on Saturday. Mostly skinny lower branches"cut cut goodbye"👋🏻😄 ___________________________ Thanks for stopping by, likes and comments are appreciated!👊🏻😎 Keep on growin! Keep on tokin!!! 😙💨💨💨💨💨

Hello everyone This second week of flowering stage, she looks good. Watered with early flowering stage nutrient. Some colas are longer than others.

Greetings fellow growers 🖖 and welcome to my first grow ever. This adventure actually started several months ago when I decided to stop buying flower from dispensaries and just grow my own bud. How hard can it be!? This is actually my second seed of this strain. The first bean sadly died due to over watering (sorry girl, RIP). I was literally watering the cube to the point where water was dripping from the bottom, then heavily sprayed the humidity dome and tray with the vents completely closed. Everyday. Multiple times. I never let the dome or try dry out. So after about 8 days of not sprouting, there was a funky smell of rot. So that was that. Later I learned that rockwool retains a lot of water and can easily drown seeds. So a wet/dry cycle is best for rockwool germination. So even after hours of researching and digging through forums and tutorial videos, I was still under prepared for this journey. Did not consider how delicate the germination phase is. Oh well. Lesson learned. Reset and try again! I hope everyone is safe and stoned during this corona crisis. Just like everyone else in the world, I want this pandemic to be over with. But in the meantime, let's grow some weed! 🖖 [START OF WEEK 01] Day 01 - Monday - 08/03/20 - Total Days: 001 ----------------------------------- - [0830]: Light Schedule: 24Hrs/0 --- Soaked cube in 5.5 PH water for 10 min. Did not shake water out. --- NO NUTES! Only PH'd down to control the PH levels. --- Did not use the default hole (way too deep). --- Flipped cube upside down and made a shallow hole for the seed (less than 0.25" deep). --- Placed seed in and pinched hole close. No additional water added. --- Sprayed the tray and dome with straight water (5.5 PH). --- Vents are cracked opened a for ventilation (about 1/4 opened each). --- Distance between the light and tray was 53" --- AC was set to 80 °F --- Exhaust fan was set to 86 °F --- Room average temp was at 85 °F --- Dome humidity was at 85-99% when sprayed. --- Allowing to completely dry before respraying. - [2200]: Dome and tray were completely dry! Sprayed only tray and dome with more water. Day 02 - Tuesday - 08/04/20 - Total Days: 002 ----------------------------------- - [0845]: Sprayed dome and tray in the morning. Everything was dry. --- Hoping for the best! - [2130]: Everything was dry again, so sprayed dome and tray at night along with a light spray on the cube. Day 03 - Wednesday - 08/05/20 - Total Days: 003 ----------------------------------- - [0830]: Everything was dry again. Resprayed dome and tray. Slightly sprayed cube. - [2125]: Hooo damn!! She popped! Am little stub is visible! Resprayed dome and tray again. --- Still going 24/0 for lights. - [+0033]: Just checked up on her and I swear she grew a bit taller! Getting excited! Day 04 - Thursday - 08/06/20 - Total Days: 004 ----------------------------------- - [0845]: Wow! Went from a little stub to fully sprouted overnight! Everything was pretty dry again so resprayed dome and tray. - [2200]: Tap root is visible! Over 1" long too! Just resprayed dome and tray again. -- Going to prep for hydroton transplant tomorrow! Day 05 - Friday - 08/07/20 - Total Days: 005 ----------------------------------- - [0930]: She keeps growing! -- Added a bit of CalMag to the spray bottle (8 drops to 650ml of distilled water). Resprayed dome and tray. Water was at a 5.4 PH with 141 PPM. - [1045]: Prepped the bubble bucket with 4.5gal of water. Water is high enough to reach about 0.25" above the bottom of the net pot. --- Added 3 drops of Superthrive --- Added 3.5ml of CaliMagic --- Added 2ml Hydroguard --- Then PH'd down to 5.6 --- Solution Strengh: 120 PPM --- Water chiller is set to 20 °C - [1100]: Transplant time! --- Filled the net basket 1/3 with hydroton. When placed in the bucket, air bubbles are not visible, but are slightly below the surface (slight digging will reveal the water/bubbles below). --- Removed plastic on rockwool cube and placed in basket, then filled around and covered with hydroton. Making sure to block any light from passing through the net pot and into the nutrient solution. --- Covered with a half-bottle dome sprayed with the CalMag water from earlier. --- Hoping for the best! - [1300]: Raised Bucket 5" higher. Now light distance is 48" to top of bucket. - [1820]: Lowered tent exhaust temp to 76 °F --- Lowered AC to 75 °F --- Raised bucket even higher so light distance is 30" to top of bucket. - [2300]: Looking good! --- Sprayed dome and surrounding hydroton with more CalMag water. --- Attached timer to light! So new 18 Hrs On/6 Hrs Off light schedule. --- Lights On: [1600] (4pm) --- Lights Off: [+1000] (10am the next day) --- Decided to go with lights on during the evening/night and off during the later mornings/afternoon (the hottest part of the day) to see if temps can be controlled better. --- Please survive girl! Day 06 - Saturday - 08/08/20 - Total Days: 006 ----------------------------------- - [0800]: Everything was dry. Resprayed hydroton and dome. - [2000]: Here first night cycle seemed to go well! Get'n taller! --- Dry again. Removed the dome. --- PH went up to 6.5 so PH'd down to 5.7 --- Ran the top feed drip ring for a bout a minute to wet the hydroton and rockwool with the nutient solution. ---Too scared to leave the top feed on 24hrs (I don't want over water her and cause dampening-off). Will let dry before re-watering. - [2100]: After closer inspection, I think she's looking a bit yellow. --- Decided to add a bit of grow nutes to the bubbler solution. --- Added 2ml of Sensi Grow A --- Added 2ml of Sensi Grow B --- Solution strength after adding more nutes: 176 PPM --- PH went up to 6 --- I hope that the extra chelating properties of the 'PH Perfect' solution is enough of a buffer for proper nutrient uptake. Day 07 - Sunday - 08/09/20 - Total Days: 007 ----------------------------------- - [0800]: Water dropped a bit (mostly due to evaporation) so solution strength was at 190. --- Checked PH again. Was still at 6, so PH'd down to 5.4 --- Ran the top feed for a minute to wet the hydroton a bit. - [0915]: Since she's looking perky but still a bit yellow. So decided to up the nutrient concentration even more before lights out. --- Added 2ml more of Sensi Grow A --- Added 2ml more of Sensi Grow B --- Solution strength after adding more nutes: 199 PPM --- PH went up to 5.8 - [1700]: Checked nutrients. --- PH: 5.9 --- Solution strength: 202 PPM --- Added 4ml of Voodoo Juice --- Added 4ml of B-52 --- PH after adding more nutes: 5.9 --- Solution strength after adding more nutes: 238 PPM - [2130]: Decided to make a new foliar spray to address the continued yellowing. --- Started with 500ml of distilled water. --- Added 3 drops of CaliMagic --- Added 3 drops of Sensi Grow A --- Added 3 drops of Sensi Grow B --- Added 3 drops of B-52 --- Added 1 drop of Superthrive --- Solution strength: 164 PPM --- PH was at 5.9 and did not adjust. --- Gave her one spray. --- Also sprayed the surrounding hydroton. [END OF WEEK 01]

Day 56 alle 3 Pflanzen haben die letzte regnerische Woche sehr gut überstanden. Apple Fritter ist 72cm hoch und bildet schöne Buds. Runtz F1 ist 60cm hoch und hinkt ein wenig hinterher. GG#4 ist immer noch in der Wachstumsphase und scheint ein Monster zu werden. Der Stamm ist sehr dick im Vergleich zu den anderen zwei. Zusätzlich gieße ich die Babys seit 2 Tagen mit Canna Terra Flores. Ich bin sehr zufrieden mit der Wachstumsphase und Übergang in die Blütephase. Ohne Lampe zu dieser Jahreszeit ein gutes Ergebnis wie ich finde.

hello all, brother growers, we have decided to fill an entire tent with nine pots of nine liters each by practicing the SOG technique. I'm very curious to see these beautiful little girls sprout because they've spoken really well about them up to now. stay updated.