I'm just giving them water until finish now. Not long left, I am checking the trichomes daily!

WEEK 31 March-7 April. I just finished all setup afteer transplantation and so far all is working fine. Now she is comfortable and has plenty of space. I'm very proud of my AQUALOOP homemade system, that works perfectly. I'm going to increase nutes until 1.8 / 2.0 EC and go to make her blooming in a couple of weeks. Update 09/04: I've made a big defolation and strong LST. I decided to start soon the blooming stage, maybe during the WE.

8/19 Rained again last night. No damage but medium is drenched. The 9lb kush I've been struggling with seems to be improving. I spent a lot of time on her yesterday and at least an hour this morning defoliating and pruning her. New growth and flowers look promising. I'm cautiously optimistic. I defoliated what needed it. I needcto qpplyvorganocide again. I can see random signs of septoria leaf spot. I really have been off my fame lately. I'm back on it now. This week the garden will be rearranged and I'll pull that big GDP back and better support the blueberry for flower. That NYCSA is a beast. It's resilient as all hell and just continues getting bigger and fuller. Despite pr9blems in the garden this girl seems absolutely fine. At least I don't have that defeated feeling anymore. I've got flowers on a few different plants. I'll try to get a couple pictures. I may take rapacaps advice and add a cheap plastic roof for later flower. I'm not sure if the explosive flower growth is due to the liquid kool bloom but I think I'm going to switch back to tiger bloom as it works better with the other nutes. I'll jeep this updated but I've got work to do. 8/20 Well it Rained again last night. This is getting discouraging. Now my other 9lb kush has the bottom branch all droopy like there's a borer or something. Realistically with the temp swings and the weather I think it's a firm of root rot or pythiym damage which isn't good. I posted pictures of the stalks and would be grateful if anyone has any advice. I'm go8ng back down to look again for a borer hole but i didn't see one. What it looks like to me is that the petroleum jelly I put on the stalks (to battle ear wigs) seems to keep them moist or something inviting mold or fungus. I'm kind of at a loss. I don't really know where to go from here. I don't know if I should just replant the severely damaged plant away from the rest of the grow, bag it and get rid of it or leave it be and hope for the best. I certainly don't want anything spreading. I'm getting tigerbloom today as my plants still need to eat and I'm nervous about the liquid kool bloom. It's probably fine but still. I'll update after I put in more work and research more today. Any advice helps. UPDATE: No borer holes. The stalk looks fucking horrible. It's supposed to rain today. I'm going to give it one more day then I'll amputate that branch and get rid of the other plant if I don't see an improvement. Perhaps I'll plant it in the ground. Don't really know what to do. Family bar b que today so my options are limited. 8/21 FED TWO GALLONS TO THE GARDEN. ONLY USED .5TSP/GAL OF LIQUID KOOL BLOOM. Did not feed dieing plant. Back to super hot weather 80° at 9am. Did a lot of research last night. I also went to several commercial growers and asked advice. What I came up with was a fusarium infection of pythiym infection (Crown rot). I looked at all my stalks and they all have bark and are darker where I applied the petroleum jelly. I'm also NEVER using DE again. It fucking ridiculous amounts of water. Everyone swears by it bit it's not going in my garden again. Since use I can just watch water sit right on the GD soil. I tried to get some examples of what I'm talking about with the stems. I amputated that lowest bottom branch I trained (which was huge). I didn't have time to dispose of the other plant before my wife's doctor's appointment. I'll update when I go back over. I'm sure this won't help and may hurt but I used Bee Safe 3 in 1 on the wound and around the stalks of the plants I saw discoloration on. I didn't touch the NYCSA even though I see some discoloration. I may just be seeing things. That plant I'd super healthy and I don't want to risk losing it. It doesn't seem to have the stem rot like the others. At least I'm not the only one having problems. I hears some pretty bad stories. Still. I'm heart broken. I'll keep this updated after I go back over. FUCK. I MAY just go back to indoor. UPDATE: Got back from the appointment and the rest of the plant was all droopy just like the other 9lb kush (and the branch amputated). I wondered about that because other branches looked worse. I got the totally dead 9lb kush out and found some root rot. AFTER wheeling the bag out I found earwigs and other insects where the bag had been. Awesome. I used h202 to try to wipe down anything that looked Fingal in the stem. It sucks because it seems like that liquid kool bloom pushed them over the edge into flower. Cotton balls where there was nothing. So that's both my 9lb kush plants and the largest plant of the year the GDP that have all bit the dust. If you grow cannabis you know how I'm feeling. I KEEP TRY8NGVTO UPLOAD THE MINUTE VIDEO I TOOK BUT I CLICK ON SOMETHING ELSE AND IT DISAPPEARS. WIFI SLOW. HAVE TO WAIT FOR 5G 8/22 What do I say? Fusarium? Pythium? Stem rot? I'm going to have to get a tent to do some indoor to get the medicine I need for me and my wife. I took the last 9lb kush out and disposed of it. Well it's still in the bag. I'm hoping maybe it might come out of it (beyond hope and far away from the others (but I'm going to toss it today). This blows so hard. Flowers are just starting to develop. I like the liquid kool bloom. It seems to make flowers explode when there was none before. At least on the plants I have left. Actually even the dieing ones started flowering. I'm really concerned considering that one plant (at least) has septoria and every plant has that petroleum jelly on it. Cautio to people that use that. It seems thats where the rot started or is. In spots I spread the petroleum jelly. Anyway my NYCSA has the smallest amount of "funky looking stuff on the stem" so I'm hoping it will make it. Cotton balls starting to appear. If I lose the whole fucking crop I'm gonna go ape shit. UPDATE: Spoke with a few others and did more research. I removed my braces on the bottom of all the plants. It looks like the pjelly and the brace allowed for some type of contaminate. Other growers think I'm being too bleak. They think things will turn out okay. They are more knowledgeable about cannabis than me but I'm with these particular plants everyday. They're probably right and my anxiety is just getting g to me. It's scary seeing a healthy plant completely die in such a short time. After removing the other 9lb kush I could easily see extreme rootbound roots still too the size of the 1 gallon they came in. The bag was PACKED FULL of tight roots so they definitely made it down. The plant however just fell over when I pushed it. I had roughed it up a big before. Anyway I'm praying to the cannabis gods to not take what I have left. 8/23 Fucking pouring again. This sucks. I've gotten loads of advice and made another friend on here. I forgot my phone so I couldn't take pictures this morning. My spirits are up a little seeing that others are at least attempting to help. I'm headed to the grow shop after a night of research to grab supplies to battle this. I'll update later. EDIT: I picked up plant doctor at the grow shop. It was 50% off and I couldn't find anything with trichodermia. However, I've heard good things about this plant doctor. It's systemic and can be used as a root drench and a foliar spray. BIGGEST selling point for me is that it SPECIFICALLY lists fusarium, grey mold. Pythiym crown rot, black mold and all kinds of other shit. The thing that sucks is it's raining and it's not supposed to stop for a few days. That's going to make application more difficult. Oh well. I think I may do a root drench on the one plant that has a wilted bottom branch. I'll keep this updated. Thank you everyone who reached out. Especially growing grannies and my commercial buddy who is always here for me. However he has no experience with this so I'm kinda on my own here. EDIT: I couldn't find trichodermia and I don't have time to wait around and order. I found plant doctor which literally lists it treats all the possibly pathogens my issue could be. Even has a section for medical Marijuana. I did a root drench on the plant up front in the middle AND I did a foliar spray. Might as well get the septoria too. It's systemic but it gets in faster through the leaves I guess. It started sprinkling and I want to test this stuff out before I go ham with it. I did give some to the to other plants bit left my best AND THE TWO SMALLER ONES alone for now. I'm not seeing those issues on the NYCSA and I don't want to risk damaging it. I chose tge root drench as it's raining and the instructions for fusarium WAS a root drench. Thank you all for your help. I will close out tge question once I know it's figured out. Wish me luck. DID A SHORT VIDEO BUT WIFI IS SUPER SLOW SO I NEED TO WAIT TO UPLOAD IT. Went back over. Finished foliar spraying the other two and left the NYCSA and two Littles alone. Hopefully this works. I did I short video. Who knows if it uploads. UPDATE: Went back over and finished foliar spraying. Took a bunch of pictures and did a video but it didn't upload. I'm hoping this will do it. Plants actually look good. And they're flowering nicely! It's too bad I had to do a foliar bug this us supposed to combat PM and septoria as well. 8/24 It Rained last night but hasn't Rained today yet. It's supposed to and uts overcast. I'm really considering putting a roof on my grow (like rapacap suggested) for flower to decrease mold chances. Plants looked happy. I saw no negative effects from the Plant Doctor. I even sprayed a branch of the NYCSA and the stem and a little around tge roots. I finally feel like I can take a breath. I've been working so hard and worrying about losing g everything. I may have been able to save that 9lbkush but I don't think bit was worth taking the chance. The sun is peaking out now. My buddy at the grow shop called and set a side general hydroponics armor si 0-0-4 silica supplement cause it was 90% off. I pad like a buck sixty lol. I'll incorporate that next feed or water. Whatever comes first but it will be good to get it in the regimen. I was worried plant doctor might hurt but the girls seemed to kike it and I went ham on the worst plant. I mixed according to medical Marijuana guidelines on the label (Theres another label on the internet, it's not on this one, it's at the very bottom and just recommdations from commercial growers. I hope this stuff works. Things look better already though. That liquid kool bloom is the bees knees. That's making flowers pop up like crazy! I think I'll stick with it. I was going to use beastie bloom and cha ching later on (and still might) but I hate the lockout bullshit. I've done a bunch of videos but most don't get uploaded as i forget to upload when I leave and wifi is slow here. Anyway at least I've got a few good ones left and pleating the words of my commercial poll buddy, "barring anything catastrophic you should be fine. I know your anxiety gets the better of you sometimes." Couldn't be a truer statement. I'm still getting a tent and doing indoor though. I'm going to need to. 8/25 Did some slight defoliation. I think today I'm going to reorganize my grow space. Things are looking better though. Plants look healthier. Flower is on and they are going to beat hell. I'm glad I took a cutting from NY 9lb kush. I also took one from the NYCSA. THose are tge little ones. The 9lb kush is flowering pretty good. Too bad it's just on a 3 gal. The NYCSA us in a 10 gal grow bag though and is doing amazing. I still see septoria on the leaves. I'm sure I'll need to reapply plant doctor but thus far I'm impressed. Things LOOK better. I don't even remember the last time I watered. It Rained last night. Looks sunny today. I'm going to feed tomorrow. I want the soil to dry out though. We usually don't get consistent rain like this. It's a first for me. I'll update later if I get stuff done.still wondering if I should amputate that wilted branch or give it a bit. It's still attached right now. I'll get some sealant and do some more research.

Week 23: Part of the plant has been stunted or the roots are having trouble in the soil. I haven't figured out the cause of the problems but I'm guessing it is a mix of stress, from when I split the main shoot first week of flower, nutrient burn/toxicities, fungus gnats/pests. Other than the foliage problems the buds are filling in nicely and the hairs are beginning to turn from white to orange.

Stretch is almost finished now is eating and fatting mode

Day 38- 18/01/22 and we are now in flowering everything is looking good I’m still cutting down the plants from my last grow Afghan kush and once I’m done with that I’ll be moving everything that isn’t chemdawg into the HPS tent!!! Day 42- 22/01/22 all amnesia now under hps light!!!

Continued growth, feeding every 3 days as soil dries out. Nice growth spurts noted and apical dominance broken via LST as limbs/new growth reach skyward. Minor fan leaf removal to permit light saturation and airflow to lower areas. Feeding 1/2 gallon per plant about every 3 days.

Hello growmies 👩‍🌾👨‍🌾🌲🌲, 👋 Flowers continue maturation, End is close, i've started flush, Harvest for next week. 💧Give water each 2 or 3 days 1,5l Water + Nutri NPK Bloom Boost 1,5l Water + Flash Cleaner PH @6 - Nutri NPK Bloom Boost 1/4 tsp for 1 gal. 💡Mars Hydro - SP 3000 100% 41 cm. 🔥 Thanks community for follow, likes, comments, always a pleasure 👩‍🌾👨‍🌾💚🌲. Mars Hydro - SP 3000 💡💡 https://www.mars-hydro.com/sp-3000-samsung-lm301b-greenhouse-led-grow-light NUTRI NPK 💥🔥 https://www.nutrinpk.com/product/npk-mix-pak-for-4-to-5-plants-cannabis-fertilizer/ Pure Instinto - Strawberry Shortcake Auto🌲🌲 https://pureinstinto.com/product/strawberry-shortcake-autoflower/

The weather was better this week and the plant grew well :) It clearly tilts towards the window to catch the light. Day 13 picture is missing because I was not at home.

A short video for your enjoyment Same feed schedule as the previous week. 0.8L everyday seems to be the perfect amount of water. Update 23/07 I uploaded microscope pictures of the trichomes and the first amber ones are poping up

things are going good, i haven't had any issues as of yet should be flowering in no time, I'm excited to see what these legendary girls will do.

The girls growing nicely and rapidly. Evtithing is ok with us

Cold week. Rain and clouds most of the days. Just 1 feed, too many nutes on soil.

Week 14 (1-5 to 7-5) 1-5 Temperature: 28.2 degrees (lights on) 22 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 62% (highest) 46% (lowest) No pictures. 2-5 Temperature: 29.2 degrees (lights on) 20 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 61% (highest) 48% (lowest) Removed the net, and tied down some branches to the pot with some gardening wire. This way i can easily move the pots in and out the tent to weigh them. I also moved the oscilating fan from underneath the canopy to above the canopy. This is because the leaves gets hotter as i increase the light's power output. The Gorilla Kush #2 and the Chemdog #2 are showing some heat stress. Before i watered them i weigh the pots. Dry weight: Chemdog #1: 4.2 kg Chemdog #2: 5.0 kg Added 10L to the reservoir. Opened the reservoir for a couple of minutes. 3-5 Temperature: 26.2 degrees (lights on) 19.9 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 61% (highest) 47% (lowest) No pictures. Increased the light's power output to 75% LUX: 16.000 / 20.000 4-5 Temperature: 26.9 degrees (lights on) 21.2 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 59% (highest) 41% (lowest) Opened the reservoir for a couple of minutes. 5-5 Temperature: 27.6 degrees (lights on) 21.2 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 60% (highest) 47% (lowest) No pictures. 6-5 Temperature: 27.6 degrees (lights on) 20.4 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 60% (highest) 42% (lowest) Dry weight: Chemdog #1: 3.9 kg Chemdog #2: 4.7 kg Added 10L to the reservoir, there was still 2850 ml left in the reservoir so now its almost 13L. Opened the reservoir for a couple of minutes. 7-5 Temperature: 27 degrees (lights on) 19.8 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 57% (highest) 44% (lowest The buds are looking good! Sadly i dont have a timelapse for this week.

Quick kush is called quick for a reason 👌, nice big indica leaves starting to grow and stretch pretty fast, i had to re pot one of the girls so one of them might look a bit sad but she will get better (its the salts) Flushing and Buffering- I am personally using Canna Coco Coir,mix with one brick of plagron coco coir(had one left). 1. Why you Should buffer your Coco. Lets get to reading! (Its Worth it for those that dont know about it) There are cation exchange sites in coco that will interfere with nutrition until they are buffered. The cation exchange sites in coco naturally come loaded with sodium (Na) and potassium (K) cations. However, the Na and the K are only weakly held to the exchange sites. In the presence of calcium (Ca) or magnesium (Mg), the sites will release their Na or K cations and lock onto the Ca or Mg. These processes are known as “cation exchanges”. Buffering coco is accomplished by soaking it in Ca and Mg. This allows the cation exchanges to take place prior to adding plants. Simply soak your coco in a solution of Cal/Mag water and the exchange sites will release their K and Na cations and lock onto the Ca and Mg. When the cation exchange sites bond with Ca and Mg rather than Na and K, it is “buffered”. The bonds that hold the Ca and Mg to the sites are very strong and cation exchange will largely stop. This means that all of the nutrients that you add to the water will be available to the plant at the ratios that you provide them. 2. Alot of growers Grow in Unbuffered coco coir and its a big mistake guys, I myself was a "victim"😬of unbuffered coco and it does cause alot of problems... now i am going to try and fix them! -----GROWING IN UNBUFFERED COCO--- Many growers are unaware of the need to buffer the coco and they try to grow plants in unbuffered coco. In unbuffered coco, the cation exchange sites will strip the nutrient solution of the Ca and Mg and replace those cations with Na and K. This creates a sub-optimal Nutrient Element Ratio (NER) and renders Ca and Mg unavailable to the plant. Failing to buffer the coco is why so many growers suffer calcium deficiencies in coco grows. Manufacturers of prepared coco products try to exploit these problems and convince growers that only their proprietary products are suitable for growing. However, it is actually very simple to properly buffer your coco yourself. This tutorial walks you through the process and provides all the information you need to turn even the cheapest brick of dehydrated coco into a superior growing medium. I hope i Helped out someone who didnt know about this link on how to Buffer your Coco Coir is Here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OQi8AMMIyyA&t=18s 14/02/2019- I Decided tp raise up the amout of nutes and im giving them 1,5 ml per L so 15 ml's for 10 L / 2 Gallons of water

Lacewings seemed to have mostly killed themselves by flying into hot light fixtures. I may have left the UV on which was smart of me :) Done very little to combat if anything but make a sea of carcasses, on the bright side its good nutrition for the soil. Made a concoction of ethanol 70%, equal parts water, and cayenne pepper with a couple of squirts of dish soap. Took around an hour of good scrubbing the entire canopy. Worked a lot more effectively and way cheaper. Scorched earth right now, but it seems to have wiped them out almost entirely very pleased. Attempted a "Fudge I Missed" for the topping. So just time to wait and see how it goes. Question? If I attached a plant to two separate pots but it was connected by rootzone, one has a pH of 7.5 ish the other has 4.5. Would the Intelligence of the plant able to dictate each pot separately to uptake the nutrients best suited to pH or would it still try to draw nitrogen from a pot with a pH where nitrogen struggles to uptake? Food for stoner thought experiments! Another was on my mind. What happens when a plant gets too much light? Well, it burns and curls up leaves. That's the heat radiation, let's remove excess heat, now what? I've always read it's just bad, or not good, but when I look for an explanation on a deeper level it's just bad and you shouldn't do it. So I did. How much can a cannabis plant absorb, 40 moles in a day, ok I'll give it 60 moles. 80 nothing bad ever happened. The answer, finally. Oh great........more questions........ Reactive oxygen species (ROS) are molecules capable of independent existence, containing at least one oxygen atom and one or more unpaired electrons. "Sunlight is the essential source of energy for most photosynthetic organisms, yet sunlight in excess of the organism’s photosynthetic capacity can generate reactive oxygen species (ROS) that lead to cellular damage. To avoid damage, plants respond to high light (HL) by activating photophysical pathways that safely convert excess energy to heat, which is known as nonphotochemical quenching (NPQ) (Rochaix, 2014). While NPQ allows for healthy growth, it also limits the overall photosynthetic efficiency under many conditions. If NPQ were optimized for biomass, yields would improve dramatically, potentially by up to 30% (Kromdijk et al., 2016; Zhu et al., 2010). However, critical information to guide optimization is still lacking, including the molecular origin of NPQ and the mechanism of regulation." What I found most interesting was research pointing out that pH is linked to this defense mechanism. The organism can better facilitate "quenching" when oversaturated with light in a low pH. Now I Know during photosynthesis plants naturally produce exudates (chemicals that are secreted through their roots). Do they have the ability to alter pH themselves using these excretions? Or is that done by the beneficial bacteria? If I can prevent reactive oxygen species from causing damage by "too much light". The extra water needed to keep this level of burn cooled though, I must learn to crawl before I can run. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) are key signaling molecules that enable cells to rapidly respond to different stimuli. In plants, ROS plays a crucial role in abiotic and biotic stress sensing, integration of different environmental signals, and activation of stress-response networks, thus contributing to the establishment of defense mechanisms and plant resilience. Recent advances in the study of ROS signaling in plants include the identification of ROS receptors and key regulatory hubs that connect ROS signaling with other important stress-response signal transduction pathways and hormones, as well as new roles for ROS in organelle-to-organelle and cell-to-cell signaling. Our understanding of how ROS are regulated in cells by balancing production, scavenging, and transport has also increased. In this Review, we discuss these promising developments and how they might be used to increase plant resilience to environmental stress. Temperature stress is one of the major abiotic stresses that adversely affect agricultural productivity worldwide. Temperatures beyond a plant's physiological optimum can trigger significant physiological and biochemical perturbations, reducing plant growth and tolerance to stress. Improving a plant's tolerance to these temperature fluctuations requires a deep understanding of its responses to environmental change. To adapt to temperature fluctuations, plants tailor their acclimatory signal transduction events, specifically, cellular redox state, that are governed by plant hormones, reactive oxygen species (ROS) regulatory systems, and other molecular components. The role of ROS in plants as important signaling molecules during stress acclimation has recently been established. Here, hormone-triggered ROS produced by NADPH oxidases, feedback regulation, and integrated signaling events during temperature stress activate stress-response pathways and induce acclimation or defense mechanisms. At the other extreme, excess ROS accumulation, following temperature-induced oxidative stress, can have negative consequences on plant growth and stress acclimation. The excessive ROS is regulated by the ROS scavenging system, which subsequently promotes plant tolerance. All these signaling events, including crosstalk between hormones and ROS, modify the plant's transcriptomic, metabolomic, and biochemical states and promote plant acclimation, tolerance, and survival. Here, we provide a comprehensive review of the ROS, hormones, and their joint role in shaping a plant's responses to high and low temperatures, and we conclude by outlining hormone/ROS-regulated plant-responsive strategies for developing stress-tolerant crops to combat temperature changes. Onward upward for now. Next! Adenosine triphosphate (ATP) is an energy-carrying molecule known as "the energy currency of life" or "the fuel of life," because it's the universal energy source for all living cells.1 Every living organism consists of cells that rely on ATP for their energy needs. ATP is made by converting the food we eat into energy. It's an essential building block for all life forms. Without ATP, cells wouldn't have the fuel or power to perform functions necessary to stay alive, and they would eventually die. All forms of life rely on ATP to do the things they must do to survive.2 ATP is made of a nitrogen base (adenine) and a sugar molecule (ribose), which create adenosine, plus three phosphate molecules. If adenosine only has one phosphate molecule, it’s called adenosine monophosphate (AMP). If it has two phosphates, it’s called adenosine diphosphate (ADP). Although adenosine is a fundamental part of ATP, when it comes to providing energy to a cell and fueling cellular processes, the phosphate molecules are what really matter. The most energy-loaded composition for adenosine is ATP, which has three phosphates.3 ATP was first discovered in the 1920s. In 1929, Karl Lohmann—a German chemist studying muscle contractions—isolated what we now call adenosine triphosphate in a laboratory. At the time, Lohmann called ATP by a different name. It wasn't until a decade later, in 1939, that Nobel Prize–-winner Fritz Lipmann established that ATP is the universal carrier of energy in all living cells and coined the term "energy-rich phosphate bonds."45 Lipmann focused on phosphate bonds as the key to ATP being the universal energy source for all living cells, because adenosine triphosphate releases energy when one of its three phosphate bonds breaks off to form ADP. ATP is a high-energy molecule with three phosphate bonds; ADP is low-energy with only two phosphate bonds. The Twos and Threes of ATP and ADP Adenosine triphosphate (ATP) becomes adenosine diphosphate (ADP) when one of its three phosphate molecules breaks free and releases energy (“tri” means “three,” while “di” means “two”). Conversely, ADP becomes ATP when a phosphate molecule is added. As part of an ongoing energy cycle, ADP is constantly recycled back into ATP.3 Much like a rechargeable battery with a fluctuating state of charge, ATP represents a fully charged battery, and ADP represents a "low-power mode." Every time a fully charged ATP molecule loses a phosphate bond, it becomes ADP; energy is released via the process of ATP becoming ADP. On the flip side, when a phosphate bond is added, ADP becomes ATP. When ADP becomes ATP, what was previously a low-charged energy adenosine molecule (ADP) becomes fully charged ATP. This energy-creation and energy-depletion cycle happens time and time again, much like your smartphone battery can be recharged countless times during its lifespan. The human body uses molecules held in the fats, proteins, and carbohydrates we eat or drink as sources of energy to make ATP. This happens through a process called hydrolysis . After food is digested, it's synthesized into glucose, which is a form of sugar. Glucose is the main source of fuel that our cells' mitochondria use to convert caloric energy from food into ATP, which is an energy form that can be used by cells. ATP is made via a process called cellular respiration that occurs in the mitochondria of a cell. Mitochondria are tiny subunits within a cell that specialize in extracting energy from the foods we eat and converting it into ATP. Mitochondria can convert glucose into ATP via two different types of cellular respiration: Aerobic (with oxygen) Anaerobic (without oxygen) Aerobic cellular respiration transforms glucose into ATP in a three-step process, as follows: Step 1: Glycolysis Step 2: The Krebs cycle (also called the citric acid cycle) Step 3: Electron transport chain During glycolysis, glucose (i.e., sugar) from food sources is broken down into pyruvate molecules. This is followed by the Krebs cycle, which is an aerobic process that uses oxygen to finish breaking down sugar and harnesses energy into electron carriers that fuel the synthesis of ATP. Lastly, the electron transport chain (ETC) pumps positively charged protons that drive ATP production throughout the mitochondria’s inner membrane.2 ATP can also be produced without oxygen (i.e., anaerobic), which is something plants, algae, and some bacteria do by converting the energy held in sunlight into energy that can be used by a cell via photosynthesis. Anaerobic exercise means that your body is working out "without oxygen." Anaerobic glycolysis occurs in human cells when there isn't enough oxygen available during an anaerobic workout. If no oxygen is present during cellular respiration, pyruvate can't enter the Krebs cycle and is oxidized into lactic acid. In the absence of oxygen, lactic acid fermentation makes ATP anaerobically. The burning sensation you feel in your muscles when you're huffing and puffing during anaerobic high-intensity interval training (HIIT) that maxes out your aerobic capacity or during a strenuous weight-lifting workout is lactic acid, which is used to make ATP via anaerobic glycolysis. During aerobic exercise, mitochondria have enough oxygen to make ATP aerobically. However, when you're out of breath and your cells don’t have enough oxygen to perform cellular respiration aerobically, the process can still happen anaerobically, but it creates a temporary burning sensation in your skeletal muscles. Why ATP Is So Important? ATP is essential for life and makes it possible for us to do the things we do. Without ATP, cells wouldn't be able to use the energy held in food to fuel cellular processes, and an organism couldn't stay alive. As a real-world example, when a car runs out of gas and is parked on the side of the road, the only thing that will make the car drivable again is putting some gasoline back in the tank. For all living cells, ATP is like the gas in a car's fuel tank. Without ATP, cells wouldn't have a source of usable energy, and the organism would die. Eating a well-balanced diet and staying hydrated should give your body all the resources it needs to produce plenty of ATP. Although some athletes may slightly improve their performance by taking supplements or ergonomic aids designed to increase ATP production, it's debatable that oral adenosine triphosphate supplementation actually increases energy. An average cell in the human body uses about 10 million ATP molecules per second and can recycle all of its ATP in less than a minute. Over 24 hours, the human body turns over its weight in ATP. You can last weeks without food. You can last days without water. You can last minutes without oxygen. You can last 16 seconds at most without ATP. Food amounts to one-third of ATP production within the human body.

~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_ ❤️💡🌱😽💨 Her trichomes are just starting to get cloudy.. it seems a little early to me but maybe the small container has something to do with this? Idk, bottle growing is definitely a first lol, we stopped nutrients ... I'm thinking maybe 1.5 more weeks...thanks for dropping by, happy harvests folks!! ~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_