I use all 3 General hydroponic nutrients and they are two different pot sizes the Moby Dick is in 30 liter and the blue amnesia is in 18 liters has a very strong odor and blue amnesia is maturing at a faster rate then the Moby Dick. a scrog net is being used in order to give support to the upcoming buds. I am also actually on week 4 I just made a mistake calculating the week. this is my first grow ever. also I'm not sure if using the scroll net it's a good idea for support rather than tying those branches up . I am watering every two days feeding nutes every single time at 900 to 1000 PPM ph at 6.2 the plans have not show any signs of stress but I am worried if it is too much nutrients the plant seems to grow very fast after every watering and seems to be loving it. the blue Amnesia XXL Auto it's growing in soil with 30% Coco and the Moby Dick XXL auto it's growing in hydroponic soil. the seeds were germinated on jiffy's and 100% germination rate plus the genetics seems to me very resilient to heat and everything else including lots of nutrients. the moby Dick XXL auto are the two in the front closest to the camera the two farthest to the back of the tent are the two blue amnesiaXXL auto. today day 31 i did some pruning actually lots of pruning hopefully don't cause stress to the plants or even worse cause them not to bud that nicely regardless the scrog net seems to be working just fine helping them access more light and making it easy for cutting leaves that are no longer needed. 32 yesterday after watering and sleeping today they have show no signs of stress in fact they starting to stretch in the buds that we're not getting sufficient light have start to grow also yesterday from the 16 liters I prepare instead of 3 ml of grow formula I add 6 1/2 to compensate for stress and the need of healing and having new grow stretch. also temperature has dropped dramatically outside making my house cold down from 24 degrees C to 19° at night internal temperature is remaining the same from 30 to 26 C. Day 33 I have been raising the scrog net every day and the light everyday this plant is growing very fast I also notice that where the fan is hitting all the time that plant is bigger I have been moving the fan to other sections of the grow tent to see if any reaction happens and it looks like it makes the plant grow faster . I will not be moving the Scrog net any higher Rather I will introduce another one once they require more support . Day34 notice some of the top leaves are showing a curving down like over-watering without actually over water I think they're showing signs of too much nitrogen .for the next water session I will hold back on nitrogen until I see signs of a fully recovering meaning leafs pointing up. thank you for reading have a happy grow.

Roots started to show at the base of the pots so I've moved her into her penultimate pot now. Next stop the smart pot. Her stem is firming up lovely and she's starting to show some lateral growth. Overall she looks really healthy. Once the other seedlings catch up a bit ill start to ramp up the light. LST will start soon!

This is my first ever grow! I have decided to try Cash Crop from Cream Of The Crop Seeds and I have made my self a little DIY Aero/Hydroponic system looking forward to seeing how she turns out. Happy growing 🌱

This week was a good one . Stellar initial growth this round after upgrading lights & using homemade super soil. My 3 day old plants looked like 9 day old plants of my last run to give an idea . I watered for the first time since planting on 5/17 . I had to itch to test the runoff since it’d only take a sec right? All the ph’s came out almost 2 points lower than when they went in so I decided on a flush even though I’m using Dry amendments. Honestly I didn’t have the problem of fluctuating ph’s before I added that Peat Moss to my supersoil in hindsight I wish I would have just ordered 1 more 11lb brick of CoCo Coir . I had the idea that I may need to flush a day or two prior to watering when I noticed all my stems purple. I get it could be genetics but ALL of them where purple . Here today it is 1 full day since I flushed & all of the stems are now Green with the exception of my Runtz seedling. 3/17 will make day 7 for Runtz & #1 of the GDP 3/18 will make day 7 for Zkittlez & the 3 remaining GDP. I intended to transplant these ladies day 13 preferably into their forever homes of 3g fabric pots . Fingers crossed day 14 they’ll be ready to start some LST.

Eccoci al momento di raccogliere i frutti della bella Green Poison FV dei magici SweetSeeds 🐘💖

Not much to say than to sing: I am the god of hell fire and i bring you: FIRE!!❤️‍🔥 ♫⋆｡♪ ₊˚♬ ﾟ. happy growing for all✊ ***KISS!growingtechnique: KeepItSimple, Stupid! (think 2weex she is ready to BURN!😋)

Hi guys entering week 7 veg on the scrog grow of strawberry chemdawg og and blackberry moonrocks under the marshydro sp3000. There very small considering there on week 7 🤔 but now i realised that my light has been on 25% 🤣🤣🤣 now its on 50% until nov 1st when I flip it.

Start of week 3 of flower! 😍😜 She is looking fabulous! Pistols are starting to swell 🌲🌲🌲🌲 Started bIg bud coco and also added some BOOST Not applied anything defiolation or neither any training All the top are uniform without any training -------- -------- -------- Leave a like and comment below on your thoughts If you want to support us, take a look at our new diaries and if you like them remember to like, comment and follow us 👍 It will be appreciated! ❤️ Join our community https://discord.gg/2kXxgHTaCZ Thank you very much! 💪 🙏

Gave her water last night and plan for shut her down sometime this week. Today is day 84 from when she sprouted.

Summertime has said in temperatures are in the 90° range this will make the tent harder to cool and I definitely need to get a bigger humidifier. Soon all the outdoor will be out of the chance describing it will go in and we will structure and get ready for flower

I dropped these seeds into a bowl of water overnight. In this case about 8 hours. I then planted .75" deep into wet soil on 4/24/24. I prefer moist soil but we had a rain the previous evening. Outdoors you plan for the weather but you don't know with certainty what nature will throw at you. There's a lot of rain in the forecast. I'm gambling that there'll be less actual rain. I want to get these girls more veg time so there's the trade off. I didn't fill these short pots completely full of soil. The idea is that less soil will dry faster if we get loads of rain. Once we get a stand, I'll add soil topping these pots off. Prayers going up for good planting weather and hoping for a fine stand of Wedding Cheesecake 🌱🌞🚀🎂. We've had lots of rain on the night of the 25th and all day 26th. It was cloudy and humid all day on the 27th but we missed the rain. The 28th we have rain most of the day. Two of three popped on the 28th and the third on the 29th. I dug up a few inches of soil around these to loosen it up and let some air get in. Hopefully that will counter this rain and drizzle on their birthday 🎂🎈 These girls came out fine and are turning up to get some sun. Fastbuds really do handle stressful outdoor conditions better. That's why they're my go to for outdoor fems.

MW6Bar Controller Level 8(520w) UVA Bars 365-370nm (54w) 10min on 50min off and 10min at the beginning of the night. IR 730nm (26w) 10min at start of night. Front Left Koosh The Magic Dragon #4 Front Right Tricho Jordan #5 Back Left Tricho Jordan #5 PPFD 1025-1275 6.5 pH Feed EC Tricho 1EC (Fade formula) Taper down to 0 by day 62 KMD 3 Switching to fade around D60 Sub EC 0-3 TJ 5-5.5 KMD Dryback Target: 60-70%

Cruise control... Did a rez change, fresh new RO water + added calmag and nutes totalling 750ppm. Not much vertical growth. Buds fattening up now. tied up some of the branches and defoliated a little to allow more light penetration.

This week I have made a video to show The progress over 4 weeks trying to be a bit different on GD! Hope you like! Was a little worried when this one didn’t pick up her pace but I gathered I had over watered and put a heat mat under her for a couple of days! And that sorted her right out! I have trained with pipe cleaners to hold those stems down as they allow the lower coverage to rise! Everything going smoothly! I hope you like buddies!

Start of the gum

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

No more training, switched the lights to 120W+660nm+UV+IR. I had to increase the distance since the new QB is much hotter. The weather was very humid - AC working all the time, still 26.2C at night, usually 25C during daytime, 45% RH during day, 52% RH at nighttime .