Likes
Comments
Share
Likes
11
Share
Eccoci qui... Siamo quasi alla fine del cultivo, odore, resina e colore ci sono. Attendiamo solo la maturazione delle cime che richiederà 1/2 settimane.... NON VEDO L'ORAAAA... Seguiranno aggiornamenti, grazie a tutti per il supporto🔥🌲❤️
Likes
53
Share
This was a hard one to grow, as I'd never done DWC, and with my water temperatures she really is such a strong solid genetic strain. I learnt a lot about growing from doing my few females. Probsbly more so by these 3 plants, 2 DWC and 1 mainline more them my 17 autos. So, all in all, I'm glad I did them. She surprised at the quality of the bud. She is so frosty its such a lovely sight to see her grinded, all the kief, love it.
Likes
3
Share
it's only the beginning on week 6 and are in flower stage, tree looks good loving her feed, loving her space just loving life. Today I decided to put her outside in the sun such a beautiful Sunday it was, I'll keep this updated with more pics by Saturday on the closing of week 6 .
Likes
82
Share
@WhiteEdge
Follow
28.04.2024 Continue into week 9 Clean nutrient tank for the last time...This is last week of flowering for almost all girls. Electrical Conductivity (EC): 0.8 for this week.. Wedding Cheesecake: one girl finish this week, two others probably in middle of 10 week. Massive plants, tons of yelled. Creamy undertones, sticky buds. Love it! They starve whole grow, didn't have possibility for separate line just for them. Love odor and bud structure. Tropicana Cookies: Second phenotype will be harvested within couple off days. Insane plant, so frosty. It getting more colorful every day Purple Lemonade: First pheno is insane! Shape, size ,color, bud hardness, appearance, frostiness' all attributes to become photo model! Beautiful and high odor in the room! Lighting Parameters: PAR Map: Maximum PPFD is 800, minimum PPFD is 550. VPD: Ranges from -0.1-1.1 Daytime Temperature (DT): 23-24°C. Nighttime Temperature (NT): 19-20°C. Leaf Temperature: 21-22°C. Light Distance: 45-55 cm from the plants. CO2 Levels: 700+ ppm. HLG Scorpion Diablo: Set at 60%, positioned at a 45-55 cm distance. Girls drink less water, so for this week and till the end of flowering new misting timing's Daytime: ON for 50 seconds, followed by 30 minutes OFF. Nighttime: OFF for 50 seconds, followed by 45 minutes OFF. Nutrient Tank (NT): pH: Maintained between 5.80 and 6.00. Stable PH, small drifting up and downs EC: 0.87 Temperature: 19-21°C 01.05.2024 Cruse mode , observing girls, looking trichomes under phone microscope. Still have to wait. Purple Lemonade is almost ready all three girls. This is last week for them for sure. Second Tropicana Cookies will be harvested in day or two.. First and second Wedding Cheesecake are finishing this week. Third still need some time.. Almost all pistils still white, only clear with some milky trichomes Lighting Parameters: PAR Map: Maximum PPFD is 800, minimum PPFD is 550. VPD: Ranges from -0.1-1.1 Daytime Temperature (DT): 23-24°C. Nighttime Temperature (NT): 19-20°C. Leaf Temperature: 21-22°C. Light Distance: 45-55 cm from the plants. CO2 Levels: 700+ ppm. HLG Scorpion Diablo: Set at 60%, positioned at a 45-55 cm distance. Girls drink less water, so for this week and till the end of flowering new misting timing's Daytime: ON for 50 seconds, followed by 30 minutes OFF. Nighttime: OFF for 45 seconds, followed by 45 minutes OFF. Nutrient Tank (NT): pH: Maintained between 5.80 and 6.00. Stable PH, small drifting up and downs EC: 0.89 Temperature: 19-21°C 04.05.2024 EC start to raise slowly and PH is dropping . Low water consumption, girls finishing Tomorrow is harvest day for second Tropicana Cookies and all three Purple Lemonade. Last day off this week is going to be last day for Weeding Cheesecake also. Without AC unit I'm not able to additionally control temperatures.. For drying it will be little higher temps, but it is what it is.. Water keep cool for whole week, from 18c to 20c, This week watering routine is changed to 45s ON time and 45min Off time Every day perform one long misting cycle, 2min ON... Nutrient tank is top-up with pure RO water + Hypochlorous [email protected] 05.04.2024 Second harvest day.. Purple Lemonade all three girls, second Tropicana Cookies also is harvested. Lots off hard buds on this girls, frosty, fat, insanely hard buds. Odor in the room is fantastic 😋 Tomorrow on last day off week 9 , Wedding Cheesecake harvest, first Girl No.3 , then day after girl No.2. Third Weeding Cheesecake is wait for a couple off days or full week. This girl is so massive, its a pounder in yield I think!
Likes
88
Share
@No_Clout
Follow
Starting to flush on Day 70 then gonna chop ‘em down in a week or two, looking great so far and smells amazing when u open the tent, real frosty and dense some nice indica buds. Their starting to get a purple hue on the flower and also the leaves are going a nice purple/yellow I’ll update soon. ✌️🏻👌🏻 01/10/18 - it’s day 75 and all is good did some late night Defol and their looking beautiful and stunk out my flat (hence it was a nighttime job)
Likes
27
Share
The Runtz has been an incredible strain to grow and she looks fantastic after the trim. I’ll update everything after she’s dried and I get to taste her briefly before the cure! 🙌🏼 Edit - Runtz is tasting incredible after a week dry. Now it’s in to the jars for curing! Thanks fir checking in.
Likes
21
Share
Top Dressed with my dry amendments and topped 3 nodes down with of all branches. Trying to really bush it out under a scrog. The nutrients kicked in within the week on the Acapulco Gold. - Changed the light from about 15% to about 35% at the same height on the ES180 - By using the mixture of Bio Tone and Earth dust I am introducing symbiotic microorganisms into the soil, mostly fungus. From what I understand these mycelium help the plant uptake the food grow healthier roots. - My goal is to use the increased nutrient availability to help the plants handle more light intensity and meet it vigorous growth. -Turned both fans on for stem strength -
Likes
21
Share
🤙Everything goes according to plan. Blueberries show a confident growth and filling of space with green ☘️ ▪️I water every other day through a powerful sprayer with clean water 💦 without fertilizers ▪️My close landing technique in action took only 2 week, and we have 18 major growth tips on almost the same plane ▪️the lamp is still 25cm from the tops, improved the cooler mount now it is exactly in the middle under the lamp ▪️the plants are tremendously strong and dynamically developing, in this regard, I worry about the fact that they will stretch overnight and touch the hot♨️ surface of the diode. update: 18 day installation of SCROG I use tents of the 🔸SecretJardin company version 4.0; they come with a stunningly comfortable SCROG; they are elastic and allow you to adjust the crown of the 🌱 plant by installing an additional staple
Likes
19
Share
Yellow butterfly came to see me the other day; that was nice. Starting to show signs of stress on the odd leaf, localized isolated blips, blemishes, who said growing up was going to be easy! Smaller leaves have less surface area for stomata to occupy, so the stomata are packed more densely to maintain adequate gas exchange. Smaller leaves might have higher stomatal density to compensate for their smaller size, potentially maximizing carbon uptake and minimizing water loss. Environmental conditions like light intensity and water availability can influence stomatal density, and these factors can affect leaf size as well. Leaf development involves cell division and expansion, and stomatal differentiation is sensitive to these processes. In essence, the smaller leaf size can lead to a higher stomatal density due to the constraints of available space and the need to optimize gas exchange for photosynthesis and transpiration. In the long term, UV-B radiation can lead to more complex changes in stomatal morphology, including effects on both stomatal density and size, potentially impacting carbon sequestration and water use. In essence, UV-B can be a double-edged sword for stomata: It can induce stomatal closure and potentially reduce stomatal size, but it may also trigger an increase in stomatal density as a compensatory mechanism. It is generally more efficient for gas exchange to have smaller leaves with a higher stomatal density, rather than large leaves with lower stomatal density. This is because smaller stomata can facilitate faster gas exchange due to shorter diffusion pathways, even though they may have the same total pore area as fewer, larger stomata. Leaf size tends to decrease in colder climates to reduce heat loss, while larger leaves are more common in warmer, humid environments. Plants in arid regions often develop smaller leaves with a thicker cuticle and/or hairs to minimize water loss through transpiration. Conversely, plants in wet environments may have larger leaves and drip tips to facilitate water runoff. Leaf size and shape can vary based on light availability. For example, leaves in shaded areas may be larger and thinner to maximize light absorption. Leaf mass per area (LMA) can be higher in stressful environments with limited nutrients, indicating a greater investment in structural components for protection and critical resource conservation. Wind speed, humidity, and soil conditions can also influence leaf morphology, leading to variations in leaf shape, size, and surface characteristics. Small leaves: Reduce water loss in arid or cold climates. Environmental conditions significantly affect gene expression in plants. Plants are sessile organisms, meaning they cannot move to escape unfavorable conditions, so they rely on gene expression to adapt to their surroundings. Environmental factors like light, temperature, water, and nutrient availability can trigger changes in gene expression, allowing plants to respond to and survive in diverse environments. Depending on the environment a young seedling encounters, the developmental program following seed germination could be skotomorphogenesis in the dark or photomorphogenesis in the light. Light signals are interpreted by a repertoire of photoreceptors followed by sophisticated gene expression networks, eventually resulting in developmental changes. The expression and functions of photoreceptors and key signaling molecules are highly coordinated and regulated at multiple levels of the central dogma in molecular biology. Light activates gene expression through the actions of positive transcriptional regulators and the relaxation of chromatin by histone acetylation. Small regulatory RNAs help attenuate the expression of light-responsive genes. Alternative splicing, protein phosphorylation/dephosphorylation, the formation of diverse transcriptional complexes, and selective protein degradation all contribute to proteome diversity and change the functions of individual proteins. Photomorphogenesis, the light-driven developmental changes in plants, significantly impacts gene expression. It involves a cascade of events where light signals, perceived by photoreceptors, trigger changes in gene expression patterns, ultimately leading to the development of a plant in response to its light environment. Genes are expressed, not dictated! While having the potential to encode proteins, genes are not automatically and constantly active. Instead, their expression (the process of turning them into proteins) is carefully regulated by the cell, responding to internal and external signals. This means that genes can be "turned on" or "turned off," and the level of expression can be adjusted, depending on the cell's needs and the surrounding environment. In plants, genes are not simply "on" or "off" but rather their expression is carefully regulated based on various factors, including the cell type, developmental stage, and environmental conditions. This means that while all cells in a plant contain the same genetic information (the same genes), different cells will express different subsets of those genes at different times. This regulation is crucial for the proper functioning and development of the plant. When a green plant is exposed to red light, much of the red light is absorbed, but some is also reflected back. The reflected red light, along with any blue light reflected from other parts of the plant, can be perceived by our eyes as purple. Carotenoids absorb light in blue-green region of the visible spectrum, complementing chlorophyll's absorption in the red region. They safeguard the photosynthetic machinery from excessive light by activating singlet oxygen, an oxidant formed during photosynthesis. Carotenoids also quench triplet chlorophyll, which can negatively affect photosynthesis, and scavenge reactive oxygen species (ROS) that can damage cellular proteins. Additionally, carotenoid derivatives signal plant development and responses to environmental cues. They serve as precursors for the biosynthesis of phytohormones such as abscisic acid () and strigolactones (SLs). These pigments are responsible for the orange, red, and yellow hues of fruits and vegetables, while acting as free scavengers to protect plants during photosynthesis. Singlet oxygen (¹O₂) is an electronically excited state of molecular oxygen (O₂). Singlet oxygen is produced as a byproduct during photosynthesis, primarily within the photosystem II (PSII) reaction center and light-harvesting antenna complex. This occurs when excess energy from excited chlorophyll molecules is transferred to molecular oxygen. While singlet oxygen can cause oxidative damage, plants have mechanisms to manage its production and mitigate its harmful effects. Singlet oxygen (¹O₂) is considered a reactive oxygen species (ROS). It's a form of oxygen with higher energy and reactivity compared to the more common triplet oxygen found in its ground state. Singlet oxygen is generated both in biological systems, such as during photosynthesis in plants, and in cellular processes, and through chemical and photochemical reactions. While singlet oxygen is a ROS, it's important to note that it differs from other ROS like superoxide (O₂⁻), hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂), and hydroxyl radicals (OH) in its formation, reactivity, and specific biological roles. Non-photochemical quenching (NPQ) protects plants from damage caused by reactive oxygen species (ROS) by dissipating excess light energy as heat. This process reduces the overexcitation of photosynthetic pigments, which can lead to the production of ROS, thus mitigating the potential for photodamage. Zeaxanthin, a carotenoid pigment, plays a crucial role in photoprotection in plants by both enhancing non-photochemical quenching (NPQ) and scavenging reactive oxygen species (ROS). In high-light conditions, zeaxanthin is synthesized from violaxanthin through the xanthophyll cycle, and this zeaxanthin then facilitates heat dissipation of excess light energy (NPQ) and quenches harmful ROS. The Issue of Singlet Oxygen!! ROS Formation: Blue light, with its higher energy photons, can promote the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), including singlet oxygen, within the plant. Potential Damage: High levels of ROS can damage cellular components, including proteins, lipids, and DNA, potentially impacting plant health and productivity. Balancing Act: A balanced spectrum of light, including both blue and red light, is crucial for mitigating the harmful effects of excessive blue light and promoting optimal plant growth and stress tolerance. The Importance of Red Light: Red light (especially far-red) can help to mitigate the negative effects of excessive blue light by: Balancing the Photoreceptor Response: Red light can influence the activity of photoreceptors like phytochrome, which are involved in regulating plant responses to different light wavelengths. Enhancing Antioxidant Production: Red and blue light can stimulate the production of antioxidants, which help to neutralize ROS and protect the plant from oxidative damage. Optimizing Photosynthesis: Red light is efficiently used in photosynthesis, and its combination with blue light can lead to increased photosynthetic efficiency and biomass production. In controlled environments like greenhouses and vertical farms, optimizing the ratio of blue and red light is a key strategy for promoting healthy plant growth and yield. Understanding the interplay between blue light signaling, ROS production, and antioxidant defense mechanisms can inform breeding programs and biotechnological interventions aimed at improving plant stress resistance. In summary, while blue light is essential for plant development and photosynthesis, it's crucial to balance it with other light wavelengths, particularly red light, to prevent excessive ROS formation and promote overall plant health. Oxidative damage in plants occurs when there's an imbalance between the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and the plant's ability to neutralize them, leading to cellular damage. This imbalance, known as oxidative stress, can result from various environmental stressors, affecting plant growth, development, and overall productivity. Causes of Oxidative Damage: Abiotic stresses: These include extreme temperatures (heat and cold), drought, salinity, heavy metal toxicity, and excessive light. Biotic stresses: Pathogen attacks and insect infestations can also trigger oxidative stress. Metabolic processes: Normal cellular activities, particularly in chloroplasts, mitochondria, and peroxisomes, can generate ROS as byproducts. Certain chlorophyll biosynthesis intermediates can produce singlet oxygen (1O2), a potent ROS, leading to oxidative damage. ROS can damage lipids (lipid peroxidation), proteins, carbohydrates, and nucleic acids (DNA). Oxidative stress can compromise the integrity of cell membranes, affecting their function and permeability. Oxidative damage can interfere with essential cellular functions, including photosynthesis, respiration, and signal transduction. In severe cases, oxidative stress can trigger programmed cell death (apoptosis). Oxidative damage can lead to stunted growth, reduced biomass, and lower crop yields. Plants have evolved intricate antioxidant defense systems to counteract oxidative stress. These include: Enzymes like superoxide dismutase (SOD), catalase (CAT), and various peroxidases scavenge ROS and neutralize their damaging effects. Antioxidant molecules like glutathione, ascorbic acid (vitamin C), C60 fullerene, and carotenoids directly neutralize ROS. Developing plant varieties with gene expression focused on enhanced antioxidant capacity and stress tolerance is crucial. Optimizing irrigation, fertilization, and other management practices can help minimize stress and oxidative damage. Applying antioxidant compounds or elicitors can help plants cope with oxidative stress. Introducing genes for enhanced antioxidant enzymes or stress-related proteins over generations. Phytohormones, also known as plant hormones, are a group of naturally occurring organic compounds that regulate plant growth, development, and various physiological processes. The five major classes of phytohormones are: auxins, gibberellins, cytokinins, ethylene, and abscisic acid. In addition to these, other phytohormones like brassinosteroids, jasmonates, and salicylates also play significant roles. Here's a breakdown of the key phytohormones: Auxins: Primarily involved in cell elongation, root initiation, and apical dominance. Gibberellins: Promote stem elongation, seed germination, and flowering. Cytokinins: Stimulate cell division and differentiation, and delay leaf senescence. Ethylene: Regulates fruit ripening, leaf abscission, and senescence. Abscisic acid (ABA): Plays a role in seed dormancy, stomatal closure, and stress responses. Brassinosteroids: Involved in cell elongation, division, and stress responses. Jasmonates: Regulate plant defense against pathogens and herbivores, as well as other processes. Salicylic acid: Plays a role in plant defense against pathogens. 1. Red and Far-Red Light (Phytochromes): Red light: Primarily activates the phytochrome system, converting it to its active form (Pfr), which promotes processes like stem elongation and flowering. Far-red light: Inhibits the phytochrome system by converting the active Pfr form back to the inactive Pr form. This can trigger shade avoidance responses and inhibit germination. Phytohormones: Red and far-red light regulate phytohormones like auxin and gibberellins, which are involved in stem elongation and other growth processes. 2. Blue Light (Cryptochromes and Phototropins): Blue light: Activates cryptochromes and phototropins, which are involved in various processes like stomatal opening, seedling de-etiolation, and phototropism (growth towards light). Phytohormones: Blue light affects auxin levels, influencing stem growth, and also impacts other phytohormones involved in these processes. Example: Blue light can promote vegetative growth and can interact with red light to promote flowering. 3. UV-B Light (UV-B Receptors): UV-B light: Perceived by UVR8 receptors, it can affect plant growth and development and has roles in stress responses, like UV protection. Phytohormones: UV-B light can influence phytohormones involved in stress responses, potentially affecting growth and development. 4. Other Colors: Green light: Plants are generally less sensitive to green light, as chlorophyll reflects it. Other wavelengths: While less studied, other wavelengths can also influence plant growth and development through interactions with different photoreceptors and phytohormones. Key Points: Cross-Signaling: Plants often experience a mix of light wavelengths, leading to complex interactions between different photoreceptors and phytohormones. Species Variability: The precise effects of light color on phytohormones can vary between different plant species. Hormonal Interactions: Phytohormones don't act in isolation; their interactions and interplay with other phytohormones and environmental signals are critical for plant responses. The spectral ratio of light (the composition of different colors of light) significantly influences a plant's hormonal balance. Different wavelengths of light are perceived by specific photoreceptors in plants, which in turn regulate the production and activity of various plant hormones (phytohormones). These hormones then control a wide range of developmental processes.
Likes
4
Share
1/12/23 all plants stretching nicely. P4 is vary one sided and P1-3 have similar structures. Starting 12/12 cycle tomorrow, still no pre-flower but should have signs by the end of next week. Hoping for at least 2 oz of or each plant.
Likes
49
Share
7/18 Plants are looking great. I was able to rearrange the plants so they have a little bit more space and so I can get around every plant. I have small random pest damage (i.e. I caught a four lined plant bug while hunting jpn beetles) but not enough h to warrant treatment. I will probably spray before flower. Sun's out amd plants were praying. I rotated a couple and it only took a few hours for them to "straighten out." I went to look again rhis morning and made the final determination to expand the cage. I'm looking for the 2x4's and the wire in the next couple days. The work that ive done now will but me sometime. I wonder how this rain impacted my soil. 7/19 Plants are looking fantastic. The stretch is starting. One purple punch looks like it's beginning to flower. I think I'm entering the transition period. Jpn beetle damage is evident but not significant. I defoliated a leaf with a a leafminwr or something in it. It's so much easier to get around the plants now. I'm seeing some chunks missing sporadically though. Went to the roses out back and found TONS of jpn beetleson top of each other reproducing. They destroyed that rose bush. I'm going to keep it as a trap plant. My dad's girlfriend wanted to spray it but that doesn't make sense as theflowers are all gone. Dad's grabbing the materials to extend the cage today I think. Right now I can get around every plant but the two big ones in the back. I just cant get to the backs of them and they are huge. Almost reaching the top of the cage. A 4'-6' extension will do wonders in flower. Can't wait. UPDATE: Dad got the 2x4's and we assembled the extension and attached it. He's grabbing the wire as I type this. This worked out beautifully. I had no idea how big the blueberry cheese in the 50 gallon was! This extension (4ft i think) is PERFECT! Then I can get a little extra wire and pull it out if I wanted to. I think I have another 2x4 that I'm going to use in the middle. Lots of great pics and a video I'll upload tomorrow. Hot af today and humidity still super high. Even the commercial dudes was surprised I don't have wpm l and that judging by some of my plants structure that I may do better than I think. I certainly hope so. I WATERED 3 GALLONS OVER THE WHOLE GARDEN. The blueberry cheese in smart pots were drooping. They drink far more water than tje others. I would've given more but we are supposed to have thunderstorms. I left my back tarp off for the night. It will increase airflow and wind is down. I feel like this is going to be my year. 7/20 I updated and loaded everything on the app but notjing would save. Did it again in the website hopfully this saves i didnt put it all up. Didn't water the plants today. Bags seemed okay weight wise. Good thing I did the extension yesterday because those three plants were drooping they were so thirsty. I focused most of the water yesterday on those plants that needed it. The others were somewhat dry but still had some weight. Like i said the blc drinks much more water than any of the other plants. I'm impressed with the growth I'm seeing. Especially since I have been being very stingy with the water and I've only fed like twice and that was just the kelp me/you and big bloom in negligible amounts. I'm watching for deficiencies. I'm just not seeing them. I'm picking up the wire and finishing the extension and then rearranging things. I'll update. UPDATE: WATERED 4 GALLONS CONCENTRATING ON THE PLANTS THAT WERE DROOPING THE MOST. FINISHED ENCLOSURE AND INCREASED PLANT SPACE. TRELLIS WILL GO UP THIS WEEK. VIDEOS WILL BE UPLOADED TOMORROW. 7/21 I should've watered more volume last night. I noticed two plants that seemed much lighter than the rest. After some deliberation I gave them each a half gallon of water. One was the purple punch in the 10 that's huge amd the other was that huge blueberry cheese. I think I'm going to swap places with them, take out a pallet and get some other way to elevate that ONE plant and I'll have even more room. Then I'll add my supports. It's a dream working in there now. I noticed some small interior leaves being used up and dieing. I defoliated them but it was only a couple. I'll need to start nutes at some point. Doesn't need it yet though. I'm going to add some kelp me/you for the heat stress. I need to get the watering down better but it's more difficult when they each have different needs. I kinda have to read the plant. I'd rather be overwatered than underwatered. I tried to upload what I could but some won't. UPDATE: I went over to clip off some fencing that was doubled up AND just to check on tge girls. Found two caterpillars (small but hairy so they were older not the inch worms and possibly what has been contributing to damage on those plants. Things are spread out so it will be harder for insects to move from plant to plant and I have better air flow. I worry that leaving my tarp off might lead to high winds and plants not able to take it buf I digress. I'll add supports later. Plants are huge and drinking far more water than I've been giving them. When I got there several were drooped right over and dry as a bone. The bags are essentially all roots now. I mixed up 8 gallons of water and split it between the plants. I gave less to the two Co trainer plants that weren't drooping and the 10 I watered yesterday that wasn't drooping but for the most part the ones that needed if got at least a gallon or more. The others a little under a gallon. It might rain A LITTLE tonight too. Oh, and since it's been so hot I added 1/2 tsp per gallon of kelp me kelp you to help the plants deal with heat stress. I also noticed that some of the very bottom interior leaves are being used up. I have a feeling ill need to switch to nutes pretty soon. Plus I need to suppirt those plants if I'm going to leave that tarp off and Gove them air. Took a video. But it won't upload here. I'll have to wait till tomm. 7/22 Didn't have much timevthis morning bit I dod a video. Boy those plants loved that water and that kelp. This morning everyone was standing straight up at attention. Supposed to get rain last night but didn't. Good thing I watered. I think I'm going to up the water next watering and then again to the 10% mark if necessary. Especially with the Blueberry cheeses. I'm noticing that a FEW INTERIOR leaves are showing nute deficiencies so I'm probably going to have to start feeding soon. I'll update later. UPDATE: Went back over and cut off the extra wire. I'm going to need to water more volume. Specifically on two plants. The two huge blueberry cheese in 20 gallon smart bags dries out much faster than the rest. I'll have to out that on a different schedule or increase the amount given. Next watering will be 1.5 or 2 gallons a plant and it might be tomorrow from what I was seeing. It's super hot and with the added airflow the bags dry out faster. I also went through EACH plant looking for pests and defoliating old leaves that needed it. Plants are still nice and green but a VERY few older interior leaves are showing deficiencies. I know this is Normal especially since they are trying n g to transition to flower. I also saw pest damage on a couple plants. Four lined plant bug. I already found the one on the other plant and killed it but I'm considering doing a spray before flower. I'm thinking either captain Jack as a "catch all", BT which works great but mostly just on pillars or the organocide bee safe 3 in one pesticide. I also have pyrethium and other things. Thus far picking things off manually has been good enough. At the very least they will get an application of BT very soon. 7/23 Held off on watering this morning. Supposed to get thunder storms I DID split a gallon with two blueberry cheese that were the lightest in the 20 gallon smart pots. Thet drink way more. My water volume is going to need to increase. We haven't had nearly enough rain. I'm going to bump it up to 1.5 to 2 gallons each plant which will be 10% for the 20s and a little less for the others. I'm still seeing various pest damage. Nothing bad but I found another couples leaves that were chomped on by a four lined plant bug so I'm debating applying something tonight when I water. I'm also noticing old leaves being used up and some interior leaves showing slight deficiencies. It will be time to start nutes soon. I'll update as I go. UPDATE: GOT THE FEELING I NEEDED TO CHECK THE PLANTS. SOMETHING DODNT LOOK RIGHT ON THE CAMS. WENT OVER AND EVERY PLANT BUT THE TWO I SPLIT A GALLON WITH AND THE PLANT IN THE 50 WERE DROOPED RIGHT OVER. LIFELESS. I SHOULD'VE WATERED THIS MORNING BUT I DIDNT HAVE TIME. I FIGURED THEY COULD WAIT UNTIL NIGHT. EACH PLANT GOT 1.5 GALLONS AT LEAST. I USED SIXTEEN OR SEVENTEEN GALLONS ON THE GARDEN. I GAVE EACH CONTAINER PLANT ONE GALLON AND GOT RUN OFF FROM BOTH. IM NOTICING SKIGHT FADING IN LEAVES BUT IM NOT INTRODUCING NUTES TO UNDERWATERED PLANTS. I THINK 10% IS GONNA BE TGE MAGIC NUMBER. 2 GALLONS EACH. EVEN THE 10 GALLON SMART POT. ALMLST AS BIG AS THE 30S BUT DRIES OUT QUICKER. 7/24 Plants looked fantastic this morning. Defoliated a few leaves that needed it. Showed my commercial buddy and he said things looked fantastic. Since the soils still holding nutes and I'm not seeing many deficiencies I may hold off on feeding. I'm starting early flower now. I will be using nutes soon. I think ive got the watering schedule pretty much down.
Likes
6
Share
@jollychap
Follow
Mon, 22 July Ok everything is coming along swimmingly except for the fact that that plant #3 had to meet the executioners block. Because he was dried out at a young stage he never bounced back properly but that's ok because I now have a holding tank for when I'm working on the other plants thus plant #6 is now plant #3. With the inclusion of my new humidifier I must say my operation is looking quite sophistimakated. Trying to get RH around 60% and I keep looking into my co2 generation options. Note to self a good rule to remember for light to plant distance is that if you put your hand near the highest point of your plants for 30 seconds and it's starts to burn, then your lights too close
Likes
44
Share
Hi guys, what's up ? Peaky's work is endless and today we meet again to share our experiences with all of you I hope you always enjoy it ! Our little girls are growing up without deficiencies and are coping with good greenery Stay updated that they will soon flourish 🤗😋
Likes
13
Share
@tiasmaaa
Follow
topping for the second time, still one more topping and we'll stop stress them and just let them grow :)
Likes
5
Share