20cm of growth this week! That is 8"!!!!! She seems happy.

They are going slow but steady. Holding back on watering to help fight the gnats. They were with too many last week. Some yellow points because of an 'on the limit' foliar feed. Nothing to worry about. Still very lush greens. I'm thinking the main reason for their slower growth, is the fan that is on high. My mission from the start s to get thick stalks and branches, to facilitate larger buds. Also, I'm pushing the SP 3000 to its max for the age of my plants, they don't have to reach for the light, resulting in shorter, bushier plants. I don't mind, I think the flowering stretch will make up for that and fill the tent. Still very happy with the SP-3000 from Mars Hydro, a much more constant and manageable climate in the tent, a dream to work with. I made a thank you video for @MarsHydroLED, of course, to also show off my music. I'm thinking one or two more weeks before resetting the light schedule for flowering. I'm already late and if another week will deliver bigger and more buds, I will give them what they need. For those living in Europe, wanting to try super soil, see my recipe in the images. Thank you for following and your likes and support! It really keeps me motivated. Big Hug Bud

7/11 Got half in of rain last night. Glad I didn't water. Ph of rain water is very acidic. Added supports to the blueberry cheese in the 50. I just used string and went diagonal and attached to the cage. Wrote a ton but it disappeared. Anyway looking at previous diaries I was wrong about senescence. It wad the life cycle of those earwigs that did that to my plants (see other diaries). This soil mix is amazing. These plants gave only gotten like two small feeds of big bloom. I showed my commercial buddy and I'll keep it between us what was said but it made me feel really good. I'm considering either expanding the cage in one direction with some lumber I already have or moving a couple outside tge cage. That way I have more room. He said he's seen plants structurally similar reach huge heights (14f) so I'm just trying to avoid future problems. I at least need to get the trellis on. I hope poor that's food enough. Did a real nice video this morning but nothing wanted to upload and it just uploaded the same one twice. I'll try again and hopfully it will go up. If not I'll put it up tomorrow. 7/12 Dad has surgery this morning. I did a quick video and took some pictures. I need to do some rearranging with the plants and cut a pallet to fit in the back. Then I can put a vertical trellis up. Haven't decided if I'll add on to the cage, remove a couple plants or just rearrange things but I'm leaning towards the later. They will need water again and I'm wondering if I should start nutrients but everything looks so good. By this time on past diaries I'd be losing all my leaves bu now. MI think it wad part ear wigs and part to many nutes. This soil mix is taking these plants through veg. I'll probably do a feeding soon but it will be organic and it will he small like a big bloom or ancient amber. Im leaning towards not using growbig this year as my plants seem to be doing great without it. We'll see. I'll keep this updated. UPDATE: Went back over and gave plants a full watering. Some were slightly drooping. I was going to add nutes but decided against it as I didn't see any deficiency. So far NO Earwigs! I comed through the plants and I did find a jpn beetle which I happily killed. I mixed up 8 gallons of water and gave it to the 11 plants so it wasn't quite a gallon a plant. I need to rearrange the plants so I have room to move around. I also need to cut another pallet and use the spaces I'm not. Trellis needs to go up. 7/13 I think I've got the watering amount down. Now just to find how often which will depend on weather. I've watered very little this year. They loved that gallon. I was going to use big bloom and kelp me/you but looking at my garden I decided not too. My buddy asked what i was addingvthings for and to wait fir what i added to do what I wanted it to do. I see no nutrient deficiencies so why add anything? I think this soil mixture will get me all tgexway through veg. I dont plan on using much in fliwer either. Definitely good genetics. I really need to cut that palley and move the 1 10gallon to the far back coener. It will open thibgs up so much better. The garden looked so beautiful this morning. Getting very aromatic. I started untangling trellis netting but had to leave. I'll update what I do. Happy growing folks UPDATE: Went back over as I had a slight intuition that I needed to check the garden. I found and killed at least 7 jpn beetles. That's what's been making holes. They tried to escape and bounced off a tarp but I got it. I went through the interiors and found two pillars. If these beetles are gonna be around I'm ordering a net. I'm also close to positive I'm going to extend my cage in the back a few feet. Things are getting unmanageable in here. My buddy said I'll be having problems soon if I don't do something. I'll document what I decide to do. 7/14 Found ONE jpn beetle in the garden this morning. I can manage those well enough. The birds help too. I check my garden multiple times a day so I manually remove many pests. However I've noticed some thrip damage on a leaf and a leafhopper damage on "A" leaf so there are "some" pests around but not enough to spray shit. A couple wasps were doing there job while I was there. Supposed to get thunder storms after three and tonight. Supposed to get over a half inch of rain tonight. I lifted the bags and decided to hold off and let mother nature take care of it as the bags weren't totally dry. Only problem I really have is space. I AM moving that 10gallon (that's the same size as some 20's) in the back. There's 27in not being used and a few feet the other way. My buddy cautioned me that I'm going to have problems since my plants are so crowded. I agree with him. I spoke with me father and we have most materials to extend my cage four feet in the back. I think that's my plan. I'll extend the structure before the stretch then I can put up the supports. We'll see how this goes. UPDATE: Went back over to check the girls as I had a feeling I ought to. When I got there I saw that a couple of the blueberry cheese were pretty light (liftng the smart pot) but the others seemed to be fine. ONE 10th planet was light like that and the purple punch in the 10 gallon was as well. Each plant thar needed it got at least a half gallon of water. I'm waiting to see if we get the thunderstorms and the half inch of rain. I watered the MASSIVE blueberry cheese in the 50 but I only gave it 1 pitcher which is like 1/4 gallon or so. Don't know why I even gave it that. Looked fine but the soil WAS pretty dry. Next year I'm giving myself way more room. I was running trying to chase these jpn beetles. This time I have the dawn and water and a measuring cup to knock them in. This ain't my first rodeo. I did notice some bright yellow streaks on a leaf edge and I'm hoping it's not septoria. I doubt it but I have an anxiety disorder and I worry. I hope I can get the cage extended sooner rather than later. It's getting hard to move in there and more importantly I can't take any more plant pathogen problems. I'm considering starting a plant doctor regimen just to be safe. 7/15 Got a bunch of rain last night. No jpn beetles in the garden and not really much damage. I did notice this (I think it's leaf hoppers) that leave those dots close together on a leaf so it appears I've got a variety of pests. I'm considering how to approach this. I mean the damage is very minimal but I don't want it to get out of hand. Another thing I need to look out for is leaf septoria or any other fungal pathogens. I believe that has been part of my problems in the past. I think that's what caused my earlier grows to drop all their leaves so quick. I think I'm being overly cautious but its very crowded in there. With my father just getting out of surgery the girls will need to wait a little bit before before I can extend the cage. I could still cut the pallet and move the 1 10gallon and that would give more room. I rearranged a LITTLE BIT so they have a little more room but I've really got to get this cage extended. UPDATE: IT Rained so hard I had to pull the car over. We hydroplanned the whole way home. After working ob my house I went to see what the damage would be like. NOT A SINGLE BREAK THAT I COULD SEE. I took a video but since the wifi here sucks I'll have to upload it tomorrow. Walking around in the cage even if I cant get it extended I think I'll be OK. It obviously will open me up to lots more issues but at the very least I can reorganize before I build on. The 10 gal purple punch would fit perfectly in the back and I have a pallet I can cut to fit it in place. Putting that one back and pulling the others forward will be much better than what I've got going on now. I'm also thinking about running an extension cord and putting fans under the canopy or at an angle to keep the wind moving. Just thinking outloud. However after that storm the girls looked as happy as I've ever seen them. All happy praying to the sun, thankful for the much needed rain. Mother nature does a pretty good job with out me messing with it. I've noticed a couple interior lowest leaves turn yellow and die like a nitrogen deficiency but everything else is fine. Also noticed a leaf that looked like a p deficiency but again, it was the VERY bottom leaf on ONE plant. Again the rest of everything looks fantastic. I'll keep an eye out for anymore nutrient deficiencies and if anyone that reads this sees some please let me know. I should've taken stills since they looked so good but I got it on video. 7/16 It POURED last night and throughout the day. TORRENTIAL rain. The branch breaking sheet rain that us outdoor growers learned to fear. My plants aren't trellised currently. I know what I need to do now. I have a pallet to put in the back corner and I'm moving the purple punch in the 10 there. And pulling others forward where there's more room. Then when I extend it (it's gotta be done this week) everything g will be in their proper place and I can just throw on a vertical trellis. I also noticed more (leafhopper) damage on a leaf. Different leaf of the same plant so I'm considering spraying something. I have a number of products but I was trying not to use them. Luckily I have these diaries so I can look back and see certain plants reactions to certain nutes or fungacide/insecticide/nutes and the doses used. I haven't been using much but if my plants will remain cramped I'm going to start the plant doctor. I'm seeing more pillar damage too but BT is super narrow so I'm thinking when I fo spray for pests I might use cap jack and be done with it. Then I can apply the BT in flower if it's necessary. I took a video but I have to wait until tomorrow to upload. I took a quick snapshot though. 7/17 Despite the torrential rain I don't have any breaks. I'm noticing more pest damage though. Another leaf on the same plant had those closely shaped round circles. I forget what pest it is but it's there. Caterpillars are there I'm sure so I may do a preclcentative spray. Just unsure what I'm going to use. I lost a COUPLE very bottom interior leaves that look like they just got used up. After this rain I think think the plants might benefit from a feeding. Probably next water after they dry out. I REALLY need that cage extended. I expressed that today and it should be done this week. I'm looking for pallets today. I have the little one that I can put in the back which will allow me to move the 10 gallon and move the other forward. That will help some but I need more room. I'll update as I go. UPDATE: GOT A SMALL PALLET AND IT FIT PERFECT IN THE BACK ROW. I MOVED THE PURPLE PUNCH IN THE 10 GALLON ONTO IT. I SHIFTED A BUNCHVIF THINGS AROUND. I ROTATED ON BLUEBERRY CHEESE 180 DEGREES SO IT WOULD FIR BETTER. CROP ROTATION IS GOOD ANYWAY. I TOOK VIDEOS AND YOU CAN NOW SEE THE ROWS MUCH BETTER. 2 WITH 3 and 1 WITH 4. IT'S SIGNIFICANTLY BETTER THAN IT WAS. I CAN GET AROUND ALL SIDES OF EVERY PLANT NOW. GRANTED THE LARGE 50 IN THE BACK IS GOING TO HAVE SOME TROUBLE BUT ILL JUST STAKE IT TO THE CAGE. IT WILL GROW TOWARDS THE SUN ANYWAY. IM SUPRISED I DIDN'T LOSE A BUNCH OF LEAVES AFTER THIS RAIN. MOVING THINGS AROUND AND LOOKING ON THE INTERIOR OF PLANTS I FOUND A COUPLE LEAVES THAT HAD BEEN USED UP. I REMOVED A COUPKE LEAVES THAT HAD DONE THEIR JOB. I'LL UPDATE AS I GO ALONG.

Yellow butterfly came to see me the other day; that was nice. Starting to show signs of stress on the odd leaf, localized isolated blips, blemishes, who said growing up was going to be easy! Smaller leaves have less surface area for stomata to occupy, so the stomata are packed more densely to maintain adequate gas exchange. Smaller leaves might have higher stomatal density to compensate for their smaller size, potentially maximizing carbon uptake and minimizing water loss. Environmental conditions like light intensity and water availability can influence stomatal density, and these factors can affect leaf size as well. Leaf development involves cell division and expansion, and stomatal differentiation is sensitive to these processes. In essence, the smaller leaf size can lead to a higher stomatal density due to the constraints of available space and the need to optimize gas exchange for photosynthesis and transpiration. In the long term, UV-B radiation can lead to more complex changes in stomatal morphology, including effects on both stomatal density and size, potentially impacting carbon sequestration and water use. In essence, UV-B can be a double-edged sword for stomata: It can induce stomatal closure and potentially reduce stomatal size, but it may also trigger an increase in stomatal density as a compensatory mechanism. It is generally more efficient for gas exchange to have smaller leaves with a higher stomatal density, rather than large leaves with lower stomatal density. This is because smaller stomata can facilitate faster gas exchange due to shorter diffusion pathways, even though they may have the same total pore area as fewer, larger stomata. Leaf size tends to decrease in colder climates to reduce heat loss, while larger leaves are more common in warmer, humid environments. Plants in arid regions often develop smaller leaves with a thicker cuticle and/or hairs to minimize water loss through transpiration. Conversely, plants in wet environments may have larger leaves and drip tips to facilitate water runoff. Leaf size and shape can vary based on light availability. For example, leaves in shaded areas may be larger and thinner to maximize light absorption. Leaf mass per area (LMA) can be higher in stressful environments with limited nutrients, indicating a greater investment in structural components for protection and critical resource conservation. Wind speed, humidity, and soil conditions can also influence leaf morphology, leading to variations in leaf shape, size, and surface characteristics. Small leaves: Reduce water loss in arid or cold climates. Environmental conditions significantly affect gene expression in plants. Plants are sessile organisms, meaning they cannot move to escape unfavorable conditions, so they rely on gene expression to adapt to their surroundings. Environmental factors like light, temperature, water, and nutrient availability can trigger changes in gene expression, allowing plants to respond to and survive in diverse environments. Depending on the environment a young seedling encounters, the developmental program following seed germination could be skotomorphogenesis in the dark or photomorphogenesis in the light. Light signals are interpreted by a repertoire of photoreceptors followed by sophisticated gene expression networks, eventually resulting in developmental changes. The expression and functions of photoreceptors and key signaling molecules are highly coordinated and regulated at multiple levels of the central dogma in molecular biology. Light activates gene expression through the actions of positive transcriptional regulators and the relaxation of chromatin by histone acetylation. Small regulatory RNAs help attenuate the expression of light-responsive genes. Alternative splicing, protein phosphorylation/dephosphorylation, the formation of diverse transcriptional complexes, and selective protein degradation all contribute to proteome diversity and change the functions of individual proteins. Photomorphogenesis, the light-driven developmental changes in plants, significantly impacts gene expression. It involves a cascade of events where light signals, perceived by photoreceptors, trigger changes in gene expression patterns, ultimately leading to the development of a plant in response to its light environment. Genes are expressed, not dictated! While having the potential to encode proteins, genes are not automatically and constantly active. Instead, their expression (the process of turning them into proteins) is carefully regulated by the cell, responding to internal and external signals. This means that genes can be "turned on" or "turned off," and the level of expression can be adjusted, depending on the cell's needs and the surrounding environment. In plants, genes are not simply "on" or "off" but rather their expression is carefully regulated based on various factors, including the cell type, developmental stage, and environmental conditions. This means that while all cells in a plant contain the same genetic information (the same genes), different cells will express different subsets of those genes at different times. This regulation is crucial for the proper functioning and development of the plant. When a green plant is exposed to red light, much of the red light is absorbed, but some is also reflected back. The reflected red light, along with any blue light reflected from other parts of the plant, can be perceived by our eyes as purple. Carotenoids absorb light in blue-green region of the visible spectrum, complementing chlorophyll's absorption in the red region. They safeguard the photosynthetic machinery from excessive light by activating singlet oxygen, an oxidant formed during photosynthesis. Carotenoids also quench triplet chlorophyll, which can negatively affect photosynthesis, and scavenge reactive oxygen species (ROS) that can damage cellular proteins. Additionally, carotenoid derivatives signal plant development and responses to environmental cues. They serve as precursors for the biosynthesis of phytohormones such as abscisic acid () and strigolactones (SLs). These pigments are responsible for the orange, red, and yellow hues of fruits and vegetables, while acting as free scavengers to protect plants during photosynthesis. Singlet oxygen (¹O₂) is an electronically excited state of molecular oxygen (O₂). Singlet oxygen is produced as a byproduct during photosynthesis, primarily within the photosystem II (PSII) reaction center and light-harvesting antenna complex. This occurs when excess energy from excited chlorophyll molecules is transferred to molecular oxygen. While singlet oxygen can cause oxidative damage, plants have mechanisms to manage its production and mitigate its harmful effects. Singlet oxygen (¹O₂) is considered a reactive oxygen species (ROS). It's a form of oxygen with higher energy and reactivity compared to the more common triplet oxygen found in its ground state. Singlet oxygen is generated both in biological systems, such as during photosynthesis in plants, and in cellular processes, and through chemical and photochemical reactions. While singlet oxygen is a ROS, it's important to note that it differs from other ROS like superoxide (O₂⁻), hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂), and hydroxyl radicals (OH) in its formation, reactivity, and specific biological roles. Non-photochemical quenching (NPQ) protects plants from damage caused by reactive oxygen species (ROS) by dissipating excess light energy as heat. This process reduces the overexcitation of photosynthetic pigments, which can lead to the production of ROS, thus mitigating the potential for photodamage. Zeaxanthin, a carotenoid pigment, plays a crucial role in photoprotection in plants by both enhancing non-photochemical quenching (NPQ) and scavenging reactive oxygen species (ROS). In high-light conditions, zeaxanthin is synthesized from violaxanthin through the xanthophyll cycle, and this zeaxanthin then facilitates heat dissipation of excess light energy (NPQ) and quenches harmful ROS. The Issue of Singlet Oxygen!! ROS Formation: Blue light, with its higher energy photons, can promote the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), including singlet oxygen, within the plant. Potential Damage: High levels of ROS can damage cellular components, including proteins, lipids, and DNA, potentially impacting plant health and productivity. Balancing Act: A balanced spectrum of light, including both blue and red light, is crucial for mitigating the harmful effects of excessive blue light and promoting optimal plant growth and stress tolerance. The Importance of Red Light: Red light (especially far-red) can help to mitigate the negative effects of excessive blue light by: Balancing the Photoreceptor Response: Red light can influence the activity of photoreceptors like phytochrome, which are involved in regulating plant responses to different light wavelengths. Enhancing Antioxidant Production: Red and blue light can stimulate the production of antioxidants, which help to neutralize ROS and protect the plant from oxidative damage. Optimizing Photosynthesis: Red light is efficiently used in photosynthesis, and its combination with blue light can lead to increased photosynthetic efficiency and biomass production. In controlled environments like greenhouses and vertical farms, optimizing the ratio of blue and red light is a key strategy for promoting healthy plant growth and yield. Understanding the interplay between blue light signaling, ROS production, and antioxidant defense mechanisms can inform breeding programs and biotechnological interventions aimed at improving plant stress resistance. In summary, while blue light is essential for plant development and photosynthesis, it's crucial to balance it with other light wavelengths, particularly red light, to prevent excessive ROS formation and promote overall plant health. Oxidative damage in plants occurs when there's an imbalance between the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and the plant's ability to neutralize them, leading to cellular damage. This imbalance, known as oxidative stress, can result from various environmental stressors, affecting plant growth, development, and overall productivity. Causes of Oxidative Damage: Abiotic stresses: These include extreme temperatures (heat and cold), drought, salinity, heavy metal toxicity, and excessive light. Biotic stresses: Pathogen attacks and insect infestations can also trigger oxidative stress. Metabolic processes: Normal cellular activities, particularly in chloroplasts, mitochondria, and peroxisomes, can generate ROS as byproducts. Certain chlorophyll biosynthesis intermediates can produce singlet oxygen (1O2), a potent ROS, leading to oxidative damage. ROS can damage lipids (lipid peroxidation), proteins, carbohydrates, and nucleic acids (DNA). Oxidative stress can compromise the integrity of cell membranes, affecting their function and permeability. Oxidative damage can interfere with essential cellular functions, including photosynthesis, respiration, and signal transduction. In severe cases, oxidative stress can trigger programmed cell death (apoptosis). Oxidative damage can lead to stunted growth, reduced biomass, and lower crop yields. Plants have evolved intricate antioxidant defense systems to counteract oxidative stress. These include: Enzymes like superoxide dismutase (SOD), catalase (CAT), and various peroxidases scavenge ROS and neutralize their damaging effects. Antioxidant molecules like glutathione, ascorbic acid (vitamin C), C60 fullerene, and carotenoids directly neutralize ROS. Developing plant varieties with gene expression focused on enhanced antioxidant capacity and stress tolerance is crucial. Optimizing irrigation, fertilization, and other management practices can help minimize stress and oxidative damage. Applying antioxidant compounds or elicitors can help plants cope with oxidative stress. Introducing genes for enhanced antioxidant enzymes or stress-related proteins over generations. Phytohormones, also known as plant hormones, are a group of naturally occurring organic compounds that regulate plant growth, development, and various physiological processes. The five major classes of phytohormones are: auxins, gibberellins, cytokinins, ethylene, and abscisic acid. In addition to these, other phytohormones like brassinosteroids, jasmonates, and salicylates also play significant roles. Here's a breakdown of the key phytohormones: Auxins: Primarily involved in cell elongation, root initiation, and apical dominance. Gibberellins: Promote stem elongation, seed germination, and flowering. Cytokinins: Stimulate cell division and differentiation, and delay leaf senescence. Ethylene: Regulates fruit ripening, leaf abscission, and senescence. Abscisic acid (ABA): Plays a role in seed dormancy, stomatal closure, and stress responses. Brassinosteroids: Involved in cell elongation, division, and stress responses. Jasmonates: Regulate plant defense against pathogens and herbivores, as well as other processes. Salicylic acid: Plays a role in plant defense against pathogens. 1. Red and Far-Red Light (Phytochromes): Red light: Primarily activates the phytochrome system, converting it to its active form (Pfr), which promotes processes like stem elongation and flowering. Far-red light: Inhibits the phytochrome system by converting the active Pfr form back to the inactive Pr form. This can trigger shade avoidance responses and inhibit germination. Phytohormones: Red and far-red light regulate phytohormones like auxin and gibberellins, which are involved in stem elongation and other growth processes. 2. Blue Light (Cryptochromes and Phototropins): Blue light: Activates cryptochromes and phototropins, which are involved in various processes like stomatal opening, seedling de-etiolation, and phototropism (growth towards light). Phytohormones: Blue light affects auxin levels, influencing stem growth, and also impacts other phytohormones involved in these processes. Example: Blue light can promote vegetative growth and can interact with red light to promote flowering. 3. UV-B Light (UV-B Receptors): UV-B light: Perceived by UVR8 receptors, it can affect plant growth and development and has roles in stress responses, like UV protection. Phytohormones: UV-B light can influence phytohormones involved in stress responses, potentially affecting growth and development. 4. Other Colors: Green light: Plants are generally less sensitive to green light, as chlorophyll reflects it. Other wavelengths: While less studied, other wavelengths can also influence plant growth and development through interactions with different photoreceptors and phytohormones. Key Points: Cross-Signaling: Plants often experience a mix of light wavelengths, leading to complex interactions between different photoreceptors and phytohormones. Species Variability: The precise effects of light color on phytohormones can vary between different plant species. Hormonal Interactions: Phytohormones don't act in isolation; their interactions and interplay with other phytohormones and environmental signals are critical for plant responses. The spectral ratio of light (the composition of different colors of light) significantly influences a plant's hormonal balance. Different wavelengths of light are perceived by specific photoreceptors in plants, which in turn regulate the production and activity of various plant hormones (phytohormones). These hormones then control a wide range of developmental processes.

28cm vertical growth this week! Almost doubled her height!!!!!!!! Powering through flowering :-)

Buongiorno amici della canapa 🥦💚 Un grande complimento a tutti i vincitori de AWC🏆🥇 Eccoci alla 6ª settimana di fioritura💐 La Critical Lemon ⚡🍋 sta iniziando a far gonfiare per bene le sue belle cime innevate😍😋 TENT-X 🤖 le tiene sotto controllo egregiamente! 🔝 L'amica Gangi🐊 mi salta in testa ogni volta che apro la porta😱... Mi vorrà mangiare! Pensa di essere un drago di comodo! 😁

At the start of week 10 she is doing great flowerstretch is almost over budsites are developing beautyfully She is recovered from last weeks defo and looking healty I think i have stretched her vegging period to the limit as far as an autoflower can go an amazing 8 week veg period i dont think i had one that went so far but not complaining if her flowerperiod is as bountyfull she’s gonna be a fat mama 🤘🤘😉😉🙌🙌 Day 66 moved her under brand new 240w quantum board that i got from enfun 420 light store

2 Girls 1 Cup week 10! Fuck yeah, the end is near. Can't wait to reset and put the new system in. Day 70- today marks the girls 10wk from breaking surface. Having the windows open on a rainy day is cranking up the RH. I just turned the A/C on shortly after snapping pics. Closing the windows and turning on A/C should bring humidity down. I may take GC (depending on tricomes) and make bubble out of it. Stabbing her multiple times got her hormones flowing. Still don't think it'll be mature enough at chopping day, but I'm trying to think positive. WG tricomes looking good. Up top we have a few amber, mid section they're 90% cloudy. I will try and take a pic with my scope. Tried once and i need another hand or two to make it easier. Picked a sample bud off WG's mid section. Mostly cloudy, few clear, few amber. It'll help with air flow right?? 🤣 *edit* A/C is on the fritz.. need to bring home a multimeter and diagnose. ======================================================================================================== Day 71- anything else want to break on me this week? Today my inline fan took a shit.. next day air a replacement, and hope the smell doesn't escape between now and then. Burning a little Nag Champa here and there for the time being. ======================================================================================================== Day 72- keep forgetting my DMM from work to diagnose the A/C. I'll remember one day, prob after WG is cut and hanging lol. Camera went offline for a period on day 71, so there's no timelapse of it. Have been thinking about ending it since there's no big changes daily like before. Didnt even set one for today. New inline fan installed at 6am this morning. I can tell ya after using two cheap ass fans that vivosun is louder than ipower. Both rated at 195cfm, but the new vivosun pushes MORE air from the outlet on the lowest setting compared to the ipower on high... going to have to figure out something for the noise though.. sounds like a jet engine. Lowered Temps during day and night is bringing back the terps! Both of the girls smell AMAZING. only checking tricomes daily on WG though. She determines chopping day. Mostly cloudy with equal number of clear/amber. Shooting for 50/50 cloudy/amber. Heady buds don't have any medicinal/psychoactive effect on me. Love the taste, but does nothing for my pain or insomnia. *edit* they're eating and drinking less by the day. Figure it's time to drill the girls. A few hours before lights out, late in their day. #7 drill bit right through their hearts 🤣. It sure did make GC ramp up when I stabbed it each of the 5 times. Bro Science may be onto something here... ======================================================================================================== Day 73- took another "sample" off WG. right side, if you scroll from 72/73 you'll see which one is missing. ======================================================================================================== Day 74- combination of cooler outside temps and the new inline fan have helped bring temps in the tent down. Daytime high 77F, night time low 66F. Nice swing and cool enough will hopefully bring out some purples, but not really pressed if it doesn't. The SMELL is what I wanted back, and I got it!! Not baking the girls in the low to mid 80's anymore is really helping. Dropped the TDS from 950's to 750's since TDS was slightly rising and PH dropping. Indicating too many nutes. I hung the "sample" in the outlet duct to speed dry it yesterday. Still damp, but tried anyway. This is gonna be some good bud, if I don't fuck it up that is.. need to grab a tricome pic for the diary. ======================================================================================================== Day 75- EC still rising and PH dropping.. took 8L out and added 8L bubbled/PHd TAP. Dropped RES from 668 to 365 @ 5.9. WG is looking great. Can't say the same for GC 🤣. I can't let my mistakes ruin GC rep though. It's my fault she's not making it to the finish line smiling. ======================================================================================================== Day 76- EC still climbing slightly and PH still dropping slightly as well. Went ahead and drained the RES, and flushed the WaterFarm with bubbled PHd TAP @ 132ppm. Tried to rinse some of the excessive salt buildup accumulated over the duration of the grow. Filled RES with PHd RO. Haven't been able to completely drain the WaterFarm since before the side RES was installed. So there's always a bit left over. Only took 4.2gal to fill her up. Can't wait to take a pic of the root mass below. Currently sitting at 80ppm @ 5.91. Days are numbered... watching tricomes up top, in mid, and down low for maturing. Tops 5-10% amber, mids 1-5% amber, down low still 10% clear. Smelling good ASF! ======================================================================================================== As always, thanks for stopping by and checking out my current grow. Link to the up to date timelapse https://youtu.be/N5MbUBjJCYM

Beleuchtung auf 80% gestellt. Die Pflanzen kriegen ab jetzt 13 Stunden Licht. Die Dos Si Dos entwickelt sich super und fängt an zu duften. Die Lemon Haze wächst schön luftig. Mit dem Wuchs der Euforia bin ich nicht so zufrieden. Ich habe einige Blätter und bei der Dos Si Dos kleinere Blütenansätze weg geschnitten.

Welcome to the Sweet Seeds Cup 🏆 Hi everyone 🤗. Today is day 30 of flowering (day 38 since the time has been changed to 12/12). It just looks great 😍👍. @SweetSeeds that's what I call masterful genetics what you conjure up 🤗👍. It just grows perfectly, the lower shoots have grown to the upper level and have beautiful, steady stems. They are so robust that I don't have to support them yet 😃. I increased the Canna Bio Flores food from 3 ml / l to 4 ml / l a week because it now puts all its power into the buds 👍. It already smells so good that you don't want to wait until it's fermented 🙈. Of course I took cuttings from this fabulous genetic, and I am already happy to have saved them 🙏🏻. I'm very excited to see what a taste will develop with these two super genetics by Kosher Kush and OG Kush . I will go down about 5 cm with the lamp again for a week before I put it a little higher than it is now :-). I wish you all a lot of fun with the new update, a nice start to the new week 👌, stay healthy and safe 🙏🏻. Let it grow 🌱 Sweet Seeds Cup 🏆 Type: San Fernando Lemon Kush ☝️🏼 Genetics: OG Kush x Kosher Kush 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205W 💡💡☝️🏼 Earth: Canna Bio ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Canna Bio ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 6.0 - 6.3 💦💧 You can Buy the Strain at : https://sweetseeds.es/de/san-fernando-lemon-kush/

We are all finished! 79 days from seed, 11 weeks !

💩Holy Crap We Are Back At It And Loving It💩 Growmies we are at DAY 42 and she's just killing💀it👌 👉Added straws within the Tiny pot to help watering in week 4 👈 So I'm starting to see she needs watering every single day and now need nutrients 🙃 Lights being readjusted and chart updated .........👍rain water to be used entire growth👈 👉I used NutriNPK for nutrients for my grows and welcome anyone to give them a try .👈 👉 www.nutrinpk.com 👈 NutriNPK Cal MAG 14-0-14 NutriNPK Grow 28-14-14 NutriNPK Bloom 8-20-30 NutriNPK Bloom Booster 0-52-34 I GOT MULTIPLE DIARIES ON THE GO 😱 please check them out 😎 👉THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO GO OVER MY DIARIES 👈

Tag 36: Die Pflanze entwickelt schon wieder offsichtlich einen Mangel, ich versuche es jetzt mal mit Bio.Bloom und Alg a mic zusätzlich. Tag 41: Ich baue das scrogging Netz ein.

She’s been chopped and trimmed—final weight came in at 105g. The buds are dense, pleasantly heavy, and absolutely beautiful. They shimmer like green velvet under the light, a texture and glow that feels almost surreal after weeks of care and anticipation. It’s a satisfying end to the cycle, and seeing the results laid out makes all the effort worthwhile. Now onto drying and curing, with hopes of preserving every bit of that richness.

Got the girls in some bigger pots, avoided waiting a few extra days of transplant shock with some mycorrhiza. They seems to be way happier now! They got a little stressed out from that one week it was getting into the 90s but I think they will bounce back just fine. Until next time growmeis. Peace. 06/12/23

26.4.25: The plants were watered with 3 ltrs of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.3, containing the following nutrients:- ♡ 1/2 Tsp Sea K(elp) by Greenleaf nutrients ♡ 1/4 Tsp Ecothrive Biosys. 27.4.25: I LST'd again by adjusting the tie downs. For FastBuds Mystery seed auto #1 and RQS Northern Lights autoflower, this will probably be the last time I adjust the fabric ties, as they're now well in to flower. Keeping the canopy as even as possible. 29.4.25: FastBuds Mystery seed #1 has taken very quickly to the readjustment of the fabric ties. Within an hour, the plant had already grown back towards the light. That's always so crazy to me. I watered 3 litres 2 days ago, and I'm not going to water again until it has dried. I suspect that will be at the end of the week. The larger pots are a learning curve with trying to water adequately but not too much. I don't think that I've ever overwatered, I never water to run off. This time came uncomfortably close though Thanks for checking my diary and hanging out 💚✌️🍃😊🌱