Ho provato a piegare le cime delle piante più alte più volte, nonostante pensavo di averle piegate a sufficienza il giorno dopo ritornavano dritte come se non l’avessi toccata minimamente. per il resto ha cacciato nuovamente un sacco di foglie, e sta spingendo un sacco … si può vedere una ramificazione ben distribuita,e a differenza di quelle sotto HPS hanno gli internodi di molto più corti. si continua così sperando in cima grosse e compatte grazie all’advance nutrients ,che danno una grossa mano atutto quello che è lo sviluppo finale del fiore.

La semaine de athena et bloom est terminer . Je passe à l'eau pure pour la semaine peut être un peut plus . Les trichome son bien laiteux et devrai commencer à ambré . Présence de seed dans les fleur due au perte d'électricité très fréquente durant la floraison. 5 fois dans une distance de 7-8 jour et 2 semaine plus tard encore 3 fois dans la même semaine ,donc 8 jour qui on subit des perturbation de lumière et environement

MrJones Ztrawberriez Auto 🍓╰⊰🍓´🍓⊱╮🍓╰⊰🍓´🍓⊱╮🍓╰⊰🍓´🍓⊱╮🍓╰⊰🍓´🍓⊱╮🍓 💧 Feeding - Using Gaia Green Grow / Bloom and Compost Teas 🍃Training / LST-Defoliation-Topping TBA 🕷️ IPM - Will be using Green Cleaner" 1 OZ per Gallon, and CannControl from Mammoth alternating between products each month for Integrated Pest 🍓╰⊰🍓´🍓⊱╮🍓╰⊰🍓´🍓⊱╮🍓╰⊰🍓´🍓⊱╮🍓╰⊰🍓´🍓⊱╮🍓 ▶️Saturday 11.04.23 - One of these girls is looking good, but the other is a bit small, not sure I am going to keep it, this is the start of week 3, and going to set the light cycle to 18/6 pretty straightforward. 🍓´🍓⊱╮🍓╰⊰🍓´🍓⊱╮🍓╰⊰🍓´🍓⊱╮🍓╰⊰🍓´🍓⊱╮🍓 ▶️Bud Description Ztrawberriez Auto produces long and fat buds with a beautiful light green shade with oftentimes purplish hues and a thick layer of resin that starts at the top of the flowers and continues all the way to the tip of the sugar leaves. It’s the typical bud structure you would expect from hybrid varieties topped with an explosion of fruity terps that’ll hit you in the face with a blend of creamy, fruity, and sweet aromas as soon as you break the buds open. Definitely a must for terp heads and extractors looking for exaggerated flavors and aromas 🍓╰⊰🍓´🍓⊱╮🍓╰⊰🍓´🍓⊱╮🍓╰⊰🍓´🍓⊱╮🍓╰⊰🍓´🍓⊱╮🍓 ▶️SOIL MIX 40% ProMix HP 40% Coco Coir 70/30 15% Worm Castings 05% Malibu Compost 🍓╰⊰🍓´🍓⊱╮🍓╰⊰🍓´🍓⊱╮🍓╰⊰🍓´🍓⊱╮🍓╰⊰🍓´🍓⊱╮🍓

Trasplantamos de 3 a 5 litros de fibra de coco, instalamos el goteo Netadrip y pasamos a floracion

12/13 Week 6 Second week of flower will be moving to just bloom nuets this week. Leaf tucking and occasion tightening up of bends Going to stay under 1000ppm for that see what the plants say about it. 12/14 Foliar feeding due to slight signs of Mag def and I mean slight on a couple of leaves. RO water, wetting agent, 1ml CalMag/quart, leaves well covered on both plants at lights out. Put the lights off pics at the top 12/15 Phasing out Coco Tek Grow in favor of Bloom Defoliation day - opened them up cleaned up lower end pics later maybe tons going on 12/16 All Bloom now 850ppm watching leaf tips close, increasing feed amount for good runoff 15%

Thorium (chemical symbol Th) is a naturally occurring radioactive metal found at trace levels in soil, rocks, water, plants and animals. Thorium is solid under normal conditions. There are natural and man-made forms of thorium, all of which are radioactive. In general, naturally occurring thorium exists as Th-232, Th-230 or Th-228. The atomic number of 90 - Thorium 1. Dobereiner’s Triads German chemist Johann Wolfgang Dobereiner attempted to classify elements with similar properties into groups of three elements each. These groups were called ‘triads’. Dobereiner suggested that in these triads, the atomic mass of the element in the middle would be more or less equal to the mean of the atomic masses of the other two elements in the triad. An example of such a triad would be one containing lithium, sodium, and potassium. The atomic mass of lithium 6.94 and that of potassium is 39.10. The element in the middle of this triad, sodium, has an atomic mass of 22.99 which is more or less equal to the mean of the atomic masses of lithium and potassium (which is 23.02). 9 controls the 6 and 3. The Limitations of Dobereiner’s Triads are : All the elements known at that time couldn’t be classified into triads. Only four triads were mentioned – (Li,Na,K ), (Ca,Sr,Ba) , (Cl,Br,I) , (S,Se,Te). 2. Newland’s Octaves English scientist John Newlands arranged the 56 known elements in increasing order of atomic mass in the year 1866. He observed a trend wherein every eighth element exhibited properties similar to the first. This similarity in the properties of every eighth element can be illustrated as follows. Classification of Elements and Periodicity in Properties Newland’s Law of Octaves states that when the elements are arranged in increasing order of atomic mass, the periodicity in properties of two elements which have an interval of seven elements in between them would be similar. Azomite has an average of 180ppms of THORIUM...........I'm fucking mindblown Alot if big things happening this weeeeek plants final form starts to take shape, light defoliation on lower parts of the plants I know make the cut later in life. Going to restrict defoliation to week 2-3. Going more cautious this time round as my excessive defo last grow was tooooooo much and effected yield greatly. Added steel weights 💪. Big buds require a solid frame, I'm still trying to find balance for this part, I'd like to have had the reinforcement done earlier. Ever learning. Can already tell by early flower formations these are going to be madness : AZOMITE: Most farmers have not had a proper understanding of what is azomite and how to use it in gardening, especially if you practice organic farming. Continuous propagation and leaching effects of water deplete the essential minerals and micro-nutrients from the soils. Such soils remain weak, not able to support the production of fruits and vegetables. Azomite mineral contains micronutrients that supplement the soil. It also balances the minerals for growth and overall productivity. Constant use of this mineral rejuvenates your soil renewing its potency again. Azomite is a naturally mined mineral product that is ready to use. It’s a unique rock that comes from a mine in central Utah. Azomite requires no mixing or special preparation before use. It is derived from volcano ash that spewed out millions of years ago. It contains the widest range of minerals of all the rock dust in the world. Azomite provides the plants with 70% essential elements. These elements include magnesium, calcium, potassium, and silicon for plant growth. Facts About Azomite Fertilizer It’s a natural mineral – 100% natural with no fillers or additives Does not contain any harmful elements Requires no special preparation before use It’s odorless – very friendly to use Does not restrict water penetration or aeration Is easily broken down and absorbed into the soil Does not burn plants GREENSAND Espoma Greensand, love Greensand. If you have never used the product (or never heard of it) Greensand is a mineral called glauconite, which is found on the ocean floor and mined for use as an organic fertilizer and soil conditioner. Greensand supplies marine potash, silica, iron oxide, magnesia, lime, phosphoric acid, and 22 trace minerals. Greensand works great on Southern “hard as a rock” clay soil this spring, to help improve its texture, and enrich the nutrient content of my soil without using chemicals. Greensand is one of the oldest and most generally useful tools in the organic gardening tool box. Greensand has been used since the eighteenth century as a soil amendment and slow-releasing fertilizer (0-0-3). It is one of the best certified organic sources of potassium. It comes from sandy rock or sediment containing a high percentage of the mineral glauconite (greenish-black to blue-green). It contains potash, magnesium, iron, silica and can contain as many as 30 other trace minerals. The recommended usage is to broadcast 50 to 100 lbs. per 1,000 square feet. It improves plant health in general and is also be used to loosen heavy, clay soils. It will also improve the moisture retention of sandy soils. Greensand is OMRI listed for organic use. Sea Kelp – Ascophyllum Nodosum Sea kelp, also known as brown algae, is the generic name for the seaweeds that make the order Laminariales. Kelp grows in huge underwater forests in shallow parts of the ocean, with some forests covering over 2230 square miles! Kelp thrives in cold and turbulent ocean water with strong currents that bring enough nutrients for the algae to grow. The coasts of Norway, Japan, Mexico, and California are some of the most abundant in terms of natural kelp density. Sea Kelp BenefitsSea kelp is rich in a wide range of nutrients, minerals, and active compounds. Some of them have great nutritional value, others show antioxidative and anti-inflammatory properties, help with diabetes, and may even fight off some types of cancer. In other words, sea kelp is jam-packed with health benefits. Let’s explore some of them in more detail one by one! Macronutrients in sea kelp Energy – 43 kcal Protein – 1.68 g Total fat – 0.56 g Carbohydrate – 9.57 g Fiber – 1.3 g Sugars – 0.6 g Minerals in sea kelp Calcium – 168 mg Iron – 2.85 mg Magnesium – 121 mg Phosphorus – 42 mg Potassium – 89 mg Sodium – 233 mg Zinc – 1.23 mg Copper – 0.13 mg Manganese – 0.2 mg Selenium – 0.7 mcg Vitamins in sea kelp Vitamin C – 3 mg Vitamin B1 – 0.05 mg Vitamin B2 – 0.15 mg Vitamin B3 – 0.47 mg Vitamin B5 – 0.642 mg Vitamin B6 – 0.002 mg Vitamin B9 – 180 mcg Vitamin A – 6 mcg (116 IU) Vitamin E – 0.87 mg Vitamin K – 66 mcg

Benvenuti amici alla sesta settimana di fioritura della ormai grande BISCOTTI 🍪 di ZAMNESIA 🗿💙 i fiori stanno letteralmente esplodendo 😱💐😍

**Encontrarás la traducción a español al final de la descripción** From/Desde: 19/04/19 || To/Hasta: 25/04/19 From day/Desde día: 57 || To day/Hasta día: 63 You can find the Money Maker Diary here: ** Podéis encontrar el diario de las Money Maker aquí:** https://growdiaries.woodroom.tel/diaries/25667-gorillamakingmoney-gorilla-vs-money-m -----IMAGES & VIDEOS----- 1 - Before defoliation 2 - Defoliation 3 - After defoliation -----WEEK SUMMARY----- (Following text was translated with tools and reviewed, sorry for mistakes, misspellings or nosense things) As you can see I've done a defoliation this week. Yes, I have really gone over the top, I have removed many more leaves than I had, and the tails of the plants has not come to join at all due to the failed defoliation. Being the first defoliation I do, I did not really know what I was doing and I went crazy. Now that it has been several weeks since I made this defoliation, I realize that I should not have removed the leaves from the nodes of the tails, because they have stopped growing and have not joined with their superior parts. Anyway, the plants are beautiful today and although they could be much better I feel very happy with them. I know I've made 2 fatal mistakes in this grow  - The first has been the massive defoliation badly done, defoliation yes, but with head ... do not follow my example.  - The second failure that I see today, is that I did not leave enough growth time (18/6) after having made the last pruning and that has made the tails have been a length much less than what would have been desired, I think that 2 more weeks of growth would have been perfect. -----WATERING CALENDAR----- 20/04/19 - 1,250 ml with Sensizym, Silica, Rhino Sk, Bud Ignitor, Big Bud, Bud Candy & Bud Factor-x @ PH6.4 & 1.2 E.C. 23/04/19 - 1,250 ml with All week nutrients - (Silica, Sensizym & Bud Ignitor) @ PH6.5 & 1.5 E.C. *****ESPAÑOL***** -----IMÁGENES Y VÍDEOS----- 1 - Antes de la defoliación 2 - Defoliación 3 - Después de la defoliación -----SUMARIO SEMANAL----- Como podéis ver esta semana he hecho una defoliación. Si, efectivamente me he pasado de listo, he quitado muchas más hojas de las que debía y las colas de las plantas no ha llegado a unirse del todo debido a la fallida defoliación. Al ser la primera defoliación que realizo, no sabía muy bien que hacía y me lancé a lo loco. Ahora que han pasado varias semanas desde que realicé esta defoliación, me doy cuenta de que no debí de haber quitado las hojas de los nodos de las colas, pues estos han dejado de crecer y no se han unido con sus partes superioras. De todas maneras, las plantas están preciosas a día de hoy y aunque podrían estar mucho mejor me doy con un canto en los dientes. Se que he cometido 2 errores gordos en este cultivo - El primero ha sido la defoliación masiva mal realizada, defoliación si, pero con cabeza.... no sigáis mi ejemplo. - El segundo fallo que yo veo a día de hoy, es que no dejé suficiente tiempo de crecimiento (18/6) después de haber realizado las últimas podas y eso ha hecho que las colas hayan quedado de una longitud muy inferior a la que hubiera deseado, creo que 2 semanas más de crecimiento hubiera sido perfecto. -----CALENDARIO DE RIEGO----- 20/04/19 - 1.250 ml con Sensizym, Silica, Rhino Sk, Bud Ignitor, Big Bud, Bud Candy y Bud Factor-x @ PH6.4 & 1,2 E.C. 23/04/19 - 1.250 ml con todos los nutrientes semanales - (Silica, Sensizym y Bud Ignitor) @ PH6,5 & 1,5 E.C.

So happy

What's up Grow Diaries family, super excited to have another grow in addition to the Gelatos. This time is a little different since it will be a new experience for me. First time growing an auto flower strain, first time using Bio Tabs, and first time using the quantum board for the full cycle. I usually use the QB304 for vegging, but since I got a 2'x2' tent. It'll be dedicated for that space. I finally got a hold of some FastBuds seeds but I've been losing sleep contemplating on which strain to grow. I have some LSD-25 and Blackberry, which are fantastic strains (based on what i've seen). It came down to a coin toss and LSD-25 was chosen. Come and join me in this new journey. I've read up on how to grow autos and all that but I know there are plenty of seasoned veterans out there that could share some knowledge. Week 1 - Prepped Fox Farms Ocean Forest soil by mixings BioTabs Startrex and Mycotrex. I know there's been a lot of debate about using 3 gal vs 5 gal for autos but I'm using a 5 gal. fabric pot since that's what I have and probably would still buy a 5 gal instead of a 3. But who am I, I'm another first time auto grower. Hahaha! Let me know your thoughts on this. Light cycle is set to 20 hours instead of the usual 12/12, 18/6, 24. I was debating on running the lights 24/7 but wanted to have period when the plant rest. Not too sure if autos need it but my electric bill could use a break. Soaked the seed overnight and sown into soil approximately 1/2 in. Placed a humidity dome (solo cups 😉) over the site to keep humidity up. Humidity in the room is around 45% which is pretty low for germination. Temperature at 78°F which is good. Within the next day or so, we should have this sprouting out of the soil. Once that happens, an update will soon to follow. UPDATE: 11/9/2018 Day 1 LSD-25 finally sprouted 😃. Relative humidity has been low at 35ish%, keeping a humidity dome/spraying Ph'd water to keep her happy until she gets a little bit bigger. If the humidity levels stay this low, I'll be putting in the humidifier until conditions get better. Enjoy the new pictures and stay tuned for the next update! Day 3 - RH has been going down to the teens so I added the humidifier for now. Conditions are a lot better and is now in the 70's. Increased the blower speed to kinda balance out the incoming dry air. Day 4 - Dialed in the incoming air by adjusting the blower and vent. Humidifier doing it's thing getting RH at 72%. Saturated the soil with regular tap water + Bactrex + Orgatrex + Cal-Mag. We'll see how this goes since no PH or EC readings required with BioTabs. I do plan on using Real Growers Recharge once she gets out of the seedling stage. Once she starts flowering, Mammoth P will be used 😉 Day 5 - Leaves are pointing up, this could be a bad thing right? I think it's due to the low humidity and possibly light burn. Humidifier was setup yesterday so maybe she just needs to get reacclimatized to her new environment. I also increased the light distance a couple of inched just in case. Day 6 - Seems like the leaves are starting to level out and color is starting to look better 😀 Day 7 - End of week 1! Nothing to report other than new pictures are up. See you on the next update.

This grow was the best ive had thus far...through out this whole grow leaves never discovered one bit!! This was the strongest, most resilient plant I've ever grown. The buds look amazing!!! Trichomes on Trichomes on Trichomes!!!! They are super fat as well. I look to get at least 3-4 ounces of this girl!!! Thank you @420fastbuds

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

Great run will update after drying

My plant is looking really healthy and frosty when I bought the purple bud i bought cheap because it had seed I didn’t mind at all single seed grown just testing my ability to grow

Semana 3 Prefloracion. Día 55(29/08): Segundo día de la 3 semana de floración, entramos con algunas complicaciones, o eso creimos, aparentemente no fue nada grave. Aun asi por el momento no voy a fertilizar con monster bloom. Ya va a tocar. Día 58(01/09): Ayer regue con Melaza, y los mejores resultados de Abby. Me decidi a usar el monster bloom.

The girls look really nice, growing strong and fast, except 1, I’m growing 2 Alakazam from Seedmakers and 2 Tangerine Dream from Barney’s. T There’s one Alakazam that has presented problems since germination. Some of the leaves have yellow-brown dots, most of her root system is healthy, but it has some brown areas, it seems kinda weak overall, it’s the one that has grown more but the one showing problems. The other Alakazam and the 2 Tangerine Dream are looking really nice. Have been doing 50% nute strength feeding, adjusting ph level daily and showing them a lot of love. Should I do something different with the Alakazam or is it just a weak seed? Thanks!

Did a good thinning out today, took some more clones she is a great plant to clone from grows well under my mars hydro TSL2000. I tied her back a little further took off all the big fan leaf 🍁 and trimmed up to 4th node. I added 1gal of ro water with 1tbs of big bloom, 1tbs of molasses, 1/2 tsp kelp, 1tsp MykosWP, top dressed with 3 tsp magnesium sulfate and 3 tbs of alfalfa meal. She is very strong odor of skunk cross with a slight fruity smell but strong nonetheless.