Hello everyone. Another week has come to an end, and for two weeks, we have been watering our girl with plain water pH 6.2 TDS 120 ppm. I think next week we will finish our journey. I want to experiment - 2-3 days without light and with reduced temperature. Share your opinion on my experiment.

12/18 Day 57 from flip. I’m starting to see signs of fade in leaves now. I also reworked the nute schedule again as these girls are showing signs of too much nitrogen still. It’s a little scary being down to 1.0 EC, but clearly raising everything to hit 1.3 EC is too much. Even with that though both phenos look spectacular. Pheno 1 seems to be the stand out with loads of frost and a fat bud structure, and even some hints of purple coming along. Pheno 2 still looks great, but with a more conventional triangle shaped bud structure and with more conventional levels of frost. Both smell great and are mostly the same. Buds seem very dense, even down low. 12/21 Day 60 from flip. Buds keep getting bigger and frostier. I can tell some stalks are beginning to lean a bit due to weight, I’ll probably need to do some tie offs soon to keep them upright.

Purple Punch and Frosty Gelato will be harvested next week. Very hot in the tent and also it is not in my house. Summer time. Hard to look after them this way it can be seen. No problem. Next time. Still love them :) A.lot of burnt leaves removed from them every week because of heat. I can not change now I need to go this way. Starnge: Wedding Cheescake is crazy other plants are suffering because of the environmental issues she is acting like this is the best environment. Leaves hardly burn and she grows as fuck. All of them in the same environment.... Hmm.

Humidity has been the biggest struggle. The dehumidifier I bought was complete useless only moved RH 1% down. Tried a couple different things to try to combat the excessively high RH (75+%) openings up extra flaps in the tent didn’t work so I decided to turn on my carbon Filter fan. Which seems to be maintaining it at 55%, however prior to me being able to start my fan I had to clear the water out of my exhaust ducting. It had accumulated at least 1/4 gal of water, this to me was a clear indication of my humidity problem. Another thing I want to rant about is PH pens I haven’t been able to find a pen worth a damn and yes I have been properly handling them. My first one died on a watering day and I didn’t have a back up so I ordered two more off amazon which don’t seem to be working well either. I ended up doing it the old school way with the drops and shaking it in a tester. Oh I also gave nutrition a break past two feedings I had a slight burn on the tips will probably do one more plain water then put her back on nutrition. Went back to nutrition early then I intend due to a slight nitrogen deficiency I don’t thing it’s gonna be a big issue just gonna continue to monitor.

Eccoci qui... Per problemi di lavoro ho tardato un pò la pubblicazione delle foto, la piccola è molto vigorosa ed emana un forte odore.. Già si può vedere la resina che si inizia a formare sulle cime in alto... Sono estremamente soddisfatto della sua crescita finora e sono sicuro che mi riserva sorprese, odore veramente intenso. Grazie a tutti per il supporto, NON VEDO L'ORA DI RACCOGLIERLA 🔥🌲❤️

Week 3 of flower. Plants are growing amd av streched a lot. Av done some deleafing and lolly poping on them will let them recover now bit the are growing good with no problmes at all got a bit of a smell coming of them there geting feed 3itters evero other day @growerchoice @SHOGUN COCO A 4ml/L 160ml @SHOGUN COCO B 4ml/L. 160ml @SHOGUN ACTIVE BOOST 2ml/L. 40ml @SHOGUN CAL MAG 1ml/L 20ml @SHOGUN ZENZYM 2.5ml/L. 100ml @SHOGUN KATANA ROOTS 0.2ML/ 8ML

Picked up some rhizotonic and had the fan on the past few days and all is looking well! They have been rotated as they started leaning towards the light and bending in one direction..My last veg light was 200/250w blue CFL however didn't notice at the shop I got a 125w I will pick up a bigger veg light for a slightly higher warmth and a bit more light coverage. Using the canna Coco range nothing else.

Growth is just going amazing. Both phenos are doing just astounding. I'm overall delighted with these genetics. Days 35-37 Growth is going amazing as you can see. When preflower stops. I'll move it under a 300w light from mars-hydro. Hopefully within the next 2 weeks. I have moved over to giving bloom now. She is showing light mag issue so I added Xpert Nutrients Calmag and have been feeding the 20L pot without it fully drying up. I love soil growing. Day 38-39 She's pushing on at an alarming rate. I did not plan for it to be these big. They're going to get 50-100% bigger. So, it's not necessarily their size now. But in 3 weeks. I need to start using IR in my flower tent to push my fems into high gear. Adding 2hrs of extra light should easily cut days to a week depending where they are. Got to also becareful as if I add IR to anything in preflower it'll stretch like crazy. So, im at least 5 days or so before my flower tent will have no preflowering plants just all girls into heavy flower. This plant will STAY away from any IR 730nm for at least another 2-3 weeks. So, she'll do all her preflower under the p1000, which will be an issue in itself. Day 40-42 Took her down to separate her as they're far to close, to big and too many shoots not to do anything will only set the mid-lower parts back weeks during the flower process. I did do some very very light lollipopping at the very ends. The shoots were the smallest. And removed their fans obviously. That's the only defol I've done more or less over this ENTIRE grow. Which is very rare for me not to remove some leaves. With autos, you really shouldn't. Some can take it & still do well. But left alone. And good lighting/airflow throughout the plants. Has really made a huge difference. I separated them as best I could with as minimal stress as possible. It'll take a few hours to look all pretty again when she settles. She'll look really good. No HST/Defols done in any major way. Left it all. And just let them do their thing. Working with it, the smell is LOVELY like a black berry smell. Is absolutely lovely scent she's giving off. But, she is a good candidate for stealth growing. Only when she's worked on does she pong. And you have to be close to smell it. Day 42 and she's doing AMAZING. Really happy to see both phenos looking beautiful & separated really well. Hoping she'll push through pre flower in the next 10-12 days. Thanks to my sponsors Herbies (who's seeds can be gotten at 20% off using the Zamnesia ordering from them, or buy from Herbies it's an amazing auto) Xpert Nutrients have done an amazing job powering it's Growth with ease through veg-preflower. DISCOUNT CODES 20% OFF 20% off with Zamnesia with code: ZAMMIGROW2024 "entire catalogue, all breeders" 20% off XPERT NUTRIENTS/KANNABIA with code: GGST "free eu shipping with with " 20% off Oringal Sensible Seeds with code:GGSTGD

Still looking fine. Bit of a slowrt flower compared to last time I ran this strain. Quite a lot of plant for such a small space. Will need to defoliate quite a lot at some point. EC in water at 2.3, roughly stacked to 3.5-4.1 in substrate/runoff.

Today on day 17 from date of birth Iam preparing a worm casting tea. In a cheese cloth bag ,Made up of 2 cups of worm castings 2 tablespoons of unsulfured molasses,2 tablespoons of mineralized phosphate (bat shit) ,2 tablespoons of soluble seaweed extract . 2 tablespoons of alfalfa meal 2 tablespoons of all purpose 4-4-4 all Gia green products other than. I also sprinkled in some great white premium mycorrhizae inton2 gallons of water. Tea will brew for 24 hours before applying.

I guess I first have to extend a big thank you to James and the folks at RQS. The genetics of their “Northern Light” did not disappoint and this was a no fuss grow across all categories. This will be the only time you hear me refer to Northern Lights in the singular. It’s kinda like calling a “pickerel” a “walleye” - you just don’t do that up here😉. She took well to training, showed no signs of lockout or deficiency, and we were at the top limits of botanicare’s recommended feeding schedule the whole time. I’d call this typical NL - the scent wasn’t overly powerful, she grew somewhat squat and while I’m actually very surprised at the final weigh (thought it would be much less), the whole grow was typical of the strain in my experience. Possibly her biggest limiting factor was simply space constraints. The photos pretty obviously demonstrate that she got really crowded out by the neighbouring kush and I wouldn’t be surprised at all if she’d have done a little better with some more room. That said, what isn’t “typical” are the effects. RQS touts this as a cup winner and I can see why. Had the opportunity to sample a little and WHOA! She Hits with a lasting, cerebral and euphoric effect that starts as a light, happy high. Not a crippling or dulling effect at all. Just everything you’d expect from a well rounded strain in general. Perfect. I almost wanna describe it as a classic sativa but I’ve been smoking nothing but a pure indica for so many months now that anything different is gonna feel that way 😂. Thank Christ for some new stash diversity: 1:! Many, many thanks to all those who cared to comment, suggest or converse on this one. It’s been a pleasure hearing from everyone and I did what I could to keep ‘er interesting : 1:. Next up will be a couple autos on RDWC before the summer outdoor season (and a significant indoor upgrade) is upon us. That said, I still might be outta touch for a little while due to “life developments”. All the best with that quality smoke folks😉: 1:😜! Seeya on the flip side.👊😎0

Great week inside the tent, somewhat uneventful out of it. UKBS 2 and Carl 2 have been growing (mainly carl 2, rip the homie UKBS2) and the plants inside the tent have been flourishing and really sugaring up despite how early they are into flower. Timelapse is here, ta-da! My nute syringe broke, so nutrient measurements are 100% inaccurate and I have no clue what I'm feeding my plants. Fun situation. Updates as the week goes. -5/28/2021 - Outdoor plants are staked out as they're quite tall and my area has a wind issue. Carl 2 is approximately 5 feet tall now, quite the monster. UKBS 2 is still suffering from degeneration, but the rest of the plant looks happy as usual. Broke out the nice camera yet again for some bud shots, gotta be one of my favorite parts of the grow process. -5/30/2021 - Indoor plants are getting quite fat in the bud department. Had to tie many of Carl 1's mains to the roof of the tent with some twine😂 - Should be some real fat goodness once she's ready to come down. Can't wait. -5/31/2021 - Last night fell asleep before closing the tent, lights on in the room. Hopefully nothing too bad as it was only one night.

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

Chopped on Day 70 (September 6th, 2020) 9/6/20: Hung her to dry after taking off most of her fan leaves. I decided to hang the whole plant this time around to see if it helps my dry quality. Will update with pictures soon. 9/12/20: Trimmed her up today after feeling that the nugs were crispy and dry. First couple days of dry we were experiencing a bit of a heat wave and high humidity levels (fluctuating from 60-75%). During the final days of drying we had rain and then it cooled off and dried out lowering my rh in the tent to around 50%. That crisped the nugs right up in 2 days and I decided it was time to pull her out and trim her up. The nugs were so incredibly sticky and smelled of chem. They are really dense despite their look especially the main cola nugs. Still smelling a bit like hay but I'm confident that the curing process will take care of that. I am curing with Boveda 58% rh packs in each jar and a hydrometer as well. Not going to test a nug until at least a week or two of curing or until I run out of Sour Crack lol. Will update with a smoke report. 9/28/20: So it's been just over 2 weeks of curing so far. When I first put the nugs in the jar, I was worried they were a bit too dry/crispy for what I was hoping for, but after 2 weeks of curing the nugs aren't as crackly sounding in my hands. I cured with Boveda 58% rh packs and mason jars as seen in the pictures. **SMOKE REPORT** 9/28/20 - 2 weeks of curing: The smell of this strain is a really unique one, or maybe the pheno that I got is. It smells fruity for sure but it has this gas smell to it that almost smells chemical but in a good way. I marked down tropical above because the combo of pungent fruit almost brings out a sweet cocktail aroma. After really thinking about it, I've never smelled weed with a scent quite like this one! The smoke was smooth in my freshly cleaned bong and I'm decently high. I feel pretty tired but I'm ready to do something like game or make music. I don't feel hungry (yet) but my throat is begging for a drink. I'm happy that I have now smoked my own home grown weed twice!

No nutrition for this week as i will harvest them at the end of week 8 of flowers as i am seeing 5% ember on Girl Scout Cookies and 30 or 40% on Green Gelato..

Last defoliation and final round, next week I will flush

Hardest budz i ever harvested. Rock hard

Vamos familia quinta semana de estás Pink Runtz de RoyalQueenSeeds. Que ganas tengo de ver el progreso de esta variedad, las plantas están sanas, se ven con un color bien verde y espectacular. La cantidad de agua cada 48h entre riegos. Esta semana ya añadimos nutrientes, estas próximas semanas veremos cómo avanzan. Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨

8e Semaine de floraison impeccable grossi bien chargé en résine irrigation a l'eau uniquement durant les 2 dernières semaines. J'ai vérifié les colas es celle-ci c'est fait polinisé par le male Sour tangie dawg mais rien de grave quelques graines, cela me permettra d'avoir une nouvelle génétique issue de ces deux plantes donc a voir ne pas ce précipiter. Elle dégage une plus douce odeur durant ces derniers jours.