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Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables," so to speak,k right before the lights come on. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules, which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth.
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Теперь я начинаю понимать еще одно преимущество выращивания методом ScrOG - по сути больше ничего не нужно делать, все ветки на своих местах. Даже высоту лампы я не корректировал, пока меня всё устраивает. Заметно замедлился рост, и мне уже очевидны мои незначительные ошибки по установке решетки, которые я обязательно перечислю в итоговых выводах. В начале следующей недели я собираюсь убрать лишние веерные листься, и подчистить низы, тогда мы и увидим финальную структуру кустов. Характерные сативные листья пока оправдывают мои ожидания, начинается самое интерсное😉 Спасибо, что заглянули, и будьте здоровы! 🙏 Продолжение следует ...😶
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@Siriuz
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Very happy to start my new Collection from sweet seeds 👽🌱 Thanks a lot for all your kindess May God bless you always We are running photoperiod For the very first time I think its time for us to grow big And hopefully we get her into bloom Happy growing everyone Day 1 - Place seed into peat pellet and left her fully in a dark RH was 45/60% Temp 22/25C Day 2 - took her out of the dark to get light for 12 HRS Then back to darkness again Until next morning Day 3 - She is finally up and got to fix her a lil since its root was not attach well to peat pellet, just cover her lightly with more Peat moss and place better its root and cotyledons for better growing She is all set and good to grow Happy growing everyone 🌱👽
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mi gorila girl esta hermosa! Brilla con sus cristales en sus flores🏵️ Estoy muy feliz por lo que estoy logrando hasta ahora. De seguro será una delicia cerebral 😆👏ya la quiero probar regada con mucho amor y la linea de top crop!!! Charly grower 👨‍🌾
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@Aleks555
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Week 11 — Amnesia X3 Turbo Feminized by Seeds Mafia Our beauty has entered week 10 and is confidently approaching the finish line. The buds are swelling with resin, covered in a thick layer of trichomes, and the aroma is simply magical — fruity, sweet, rich, and warm. The plant keeps impressing with its structure and lushness. The SCRoG net is doing a great job distributing light evenly and supporting those heavy colas. Daytime temperatures stay around 25–26°C, dropping to 20–21°C at night, with stable humidity at around 45% and good airflow. As always, we're feeding her only the best — Xpert Nutrients, which have kept the plant healthy and vigorous throughout the cycle. Huge thanks to Seeds Mafia for this incredible genetics — this Creamy Beast Turbo is truly a monster in its class.
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6/28/25 Transplanted into 3 gallon pot amended with dr earth 463 at 10 ml per gallon of soil and a couple handfuls of homemade worm castings. added mykos to the transplant hole for the roots. The roots on the black opium look really really nice and
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@Kirsten
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31.12.24: I have been readjusting the LST pegs and wire daily. Sometimes, twice a day! (I know, too much time on my hands)! 😆 The plants have responded fantastically! I'm so glad I gave it a go. Some plants have been a bit too tall, and I snapped Do-sì-dos P3, pulling the stem down. Audibly snapped 😬I let it be, though. It seems to have healed mostly, in only 2 days. I have increased the lighting to 70%. They're getting watered a few times a week, with 1 litre of Dechlorinated water, containing the following nutrients and additives; 1ml of Biobizz Bio-Grow, 1ml Biobizz Top Max, 1ml of Biobizz Bloom, 2ml of cal-mag, 1g of Ecothrive Biosys. The plants are responding well to this concoction, so it's all good so far. The leaves are looking greener and are getting darker. Will be monitoring to continue readjusting the LST ties. Also, to monitor the increased lighting level, to make sure they can handle that yet. 1.1.25: Happy New Year! I have continued to readjust the LST wire and plant pegs. Several times a day. Coincidence would have it, I have a 6ft tropical aquarium which was time for cleaning! I always water my Acer tree in the front yard with this water, with beautiful results 😍 👌 🍁 I decided to try it out in my indoor garden. I'll post photos of before and after to see the difference, good or bad 😅 3.1.25: Plants are doing very well, except for PPP3 I'm quite disappointed in that one, as I feel like it's wasting a space. I guess I'll have to keep it, along with the Do-sì-dos that I snapped twice, which refuses to die 😅 I started to lightly defoliate, which is difficult because I always get carried away with it. I'm going to water again with the nutrients in description of this week. 4.1.25: Unfortunately, P3 did not make it 😕 however P1 is doing well, so that's good. I had an extra space due to this and filled it with Gorilla Cookies Autoflower, check it out if you like 🙂 Continuing to defoliate and adjust the LST pegs and wire. Watered today with 1ltr of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.0. With the following nutrients;- 2ml Biobizz Bloom, 4ml Biobizz Bio-Grow, 2ml Cal-Mag, 2ml Ecothrive Flourish, 0.2 g/ltr of Ecothrive Biosys. I've increased the Nitrogen by adding double the amount of Biobizz Bio-Grow. I'm trying to keep them growing for as long as possible! I really want to keep the strength up and keep the leaves nice and lush green! 💚 Will update here with more photos and videos. Thanks for checking out my diary 🍃 ✌️
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So I received some fastflowering testers from the amazing fastbuds I cannot wait for these girls too show themselves and start growing 🌱 Thank you so much too the fastbuds team I'm very excited too see what they become 🤞 👀🙏 I have not yet decided which nutrients too use between shogun and aptus but I may use both let's see. hope you will feel comfortable too advise as I go along any comments are welcome. Any aptus nutrients users please feel free on giving tips as I think I will be using aptus Stay blessed growmies 🙏🌱💚
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@Coopmc
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Just wish she had got more purpose but everyting elses is Perfeckt!! Samples A bit she did not show purple but she tastes of it and tickles your nose like a purple plant!!
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@THCeitor
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Normalmente una planta automática ya está floreciendo en la cuarta semana, pero estas RUNTZ auto no quieren parar de crecer formando una estructura fenomenal gracias al LST.
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Welcome to my Auto Cinderella Jack(s) grows from Dutch-Passion. Both ladies have been on water for 10 days. The synthetic got a hard flush and the organic was soft flushed (water for 10days to rid of excess nutrients in soil) Was such a pleasure to grow both girls. The organic has lovely bright orange hairs with very dense hard big buds. Calyxes are nice and big with a nice leaf to calyx ratio. (Not much to trim)...The Synthetic girl has a completely different structure. Has shorter buds, that are very dense and has a lot more frost. Has lovely hints of purple throughout it. All buds are lovely and tight/dense and very stinky and sticky. Both plants needed the full dose of the FC 3000 and I've no doubt that I'd of gotten a different bud structure deeper into the canopy. (Its not larf) just not as hard the deeper down into the canopy, (some of the bud) All ladies (autos) have been in a dark rest 24hrs now and will get another 24hrs in a dark tent. Hoping to see glistening resin upon harvesting. Plants will be harvested in this grow week and dried, then after I taste and get the measure of both plants as for quality I'll rate them then. HARVEST DAY. 48Hr rest. And they nice and glistening. Glad I rested them. You really can see the resin. I harvested whole. Pult the whole plant(s) up from the stem and broke away the clay and took the main roots that come from the stem. The organic, boy, she was bet in. Took me all my strength to break away her main roots. They were mm thick. Very nice root structure also. The synthic, the soil just broke apart before I could take out upon my pulling..put my back into it thinking would be the same. Strong, but nowhere near as good a root zone as the nearly all organic beat her hands down. As for bud size, she took that to. They equally smell very fruity and have a very light gasey smell. But very fruity. More that than anything. I'm sure I'll put my finger on it as the days go by. Let's hope they both dry nice and I can keep a steady temperature. (REMINDER if room drying this time of Yr. Turn off your radiators) More pics to come and info on how the process is going.. Thanks for dropping by. Be sure to like so I can visit your diaries. Either way thanks for dropping by.
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@Loco11
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Bin sehr glücklich über das Resultat. Die Sorte ist mir richtig gut gelungen, nicht nur vom ertrag auch die Kompaktheit der Buds. Ich glaube mein nächstes Projekt wird Runtz Muffin sein. :))
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@BunDem
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DWC water level lowered to 0.5-1cm below net basket.
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@Filiaes
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18.06 A way more late update of this grow as I usually provide for two reasons - first I didn't had any time to control or keep care of this grow during the last weekend, second: due to the first point I run into a problem I needed to identify before I update my journal. As you can see in the video there is one plant with some kind of brown leave tips and yellow sugar leaves. I am not 100% sure why this happened but I think it could be some kind of wind burn. I didn't noticed that one slot of my power strips wasn't working anymore, this slot was turning on and off some fans. So the fans just blow straight at least for two days in a row against the plants. Beside that I raised the speed of my main fan a bit a week ago and the plant that is the nearest to this fan show the signs on the leaves I notice here. So I fixed the fans and observed the plants a bit more in detail the last days. The problem didn't developed further so I think this is fine now. There can also be some other reasons, as I wrote last week I changed a bit my nutrient scheme but since I wasn't above EC 2 at all I am not really comfortable with this theorie. Anyway, I closed the tank from sunday to monday so the plants just had what was left in the autopot system and used that until the next light schedule. Afterwards I changed my nutrient scheme back to the classic Hesi scheme. The plants are really well, the trichomes are still clear so I think we have at least until 3 weeks to harvest. The plants will become next week full scheme, afterwards I will check the trichomes again and decide if I start to reduce the scheme or not as we come closer to the harvest.
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@4F1M6
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I started germination of 4 Gelat.Og beans on 29/12/2020. I pre moistened my rockwool cubes with ph balanced water to 6.4. Made sure the plugs were just damp and not soaked. Using a small wooden dowel I increased the size of the plugs pre made holes. Than I sowed my beans into the holes. Ripped off a small piece of rockwool and mulched it up. Lightly filled the holes in with the mulched rockwool. Than stuck the plugs into a misted humidity dome, to complete germination. Shouldn't take anymore than 4-5 days to see some sprouts. Once I see some cotlydon leaves bursting to the surface. I will get the plugs planted into some 1 gallon pots. Plus get these ladies situated into their home. Cant wait! Some background information on my experience with Gelat.Og. I've grown this one out several times and I'm just absolutely in love with these genetics. One of the best terp pallets I've came across. Extremely creamy and rich aroma with a kush kick... majestic! She packs amazing bud structure and is a real branchy hauler. She packs a pretty large stretch, about 200% on average. Plus she has a bit longer of a flower time for a indica dominant... in my experience about 11 weeks. She gets a strong demand for more phosphorus mid flower. A good spike with the pk booster and shes happy as Larry! Another Seedsman masterpiece right her! Amped to dive In to this grow.
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Day 28 of flower and I’m very happy with these two ladies atm. In both vids, you can tell which one will have the fatter nuggs. The plant in the first vid, was transplanted into Fox Farm Ocean Soil and the other was not. I can tell you right now, your grow medium definitely makes or breaks your grow. I will be using FF as medium of choice from here on out. Not much else to say other than they’re done stretching and are starting to fattening up every day. Got a little over 40 days left until it’s harvest time. 42 to be exact! But I’ll catch yall on the next update ✌️🏾
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@Mitch
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Reaching the last week on the 8 week time frame by breeders, really enjoying the fruity smell of this plant, really cover in trichomes, large colas, and really sticky!!! And the 3 banana blaze are huge !!!!!!
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Day 57 Update: Plants got water yesterday with tiger bloom. First few orange pistils noticed last night, not very many yet. Yellowing is predominately in the fan leaves so maybe that is normal? Things are about to get crowded in the tent as the other three plants are starting to get big. Day 58 Update: I read up on cal-mag deficiencies. As it's my first grow, I can't know for sure how heavy/light-handed I've been with nutrients, but it feels like I've erred on the side of less is more. The "bar graph" thing is not accurate for what I've done feeding-wise. Either way, I can't image there's any actual deficiency but more likely a pH issue causing problems with magnesium uptake. I'm not too sure how accurate the 3-in-1 pH/Light/Moisture meter is, but the pH reads close to 8 in every insertion location. I'm going to order pH down, but was reading about lemon juice as a SHORT TERM fix to lower pH. Two significant issues were inevitable with this grow: 1) traveling and leaving it unattended for a week & 2) using soil that other plants were grown in. Knowing how much these two issues caused me, my future grows will honestly be way better for it. Notably how to handle extended time away as well as consistently testing pH/soil. Depending on how serious I get with this, I'd invest in more precise measurement tools, but not yet. Obviously I want big yields, but I wasn't expecting to get pounds, so I'm okay with learning how issues affect yield. My other grow is actually a really interesting study in how different stresses affect plants, but I digress. Point is, I know there are problems, I'm trying to learn to fix them, but if things go totally pear shaped, I'm not going to be too disappointed. Day 59 Update: Working on lowering the pH that feels more like the cause of deficiencies than underfeeding. In another diary I read, the grower used lemon juice in dechlorinated tap consistently in each feeding without nutrients to control pH. That's my plan until Monday when the GH ph Up/Down will be delivered. One of my plants in my other grow has pretty obvious signs of necrosis on some leaves, but it doesn't seem to be spreading. I'm pretty sure I've had wonky pH levels since I went out of town and I never got those fixed so now I'm dealing with it. Having never grown any cannabis before, but also expecting some purple in the plant, the purple/reddish hues some of the leaves initially developed seemed more normal than I should have realized. Trial by fire!! Day 60 Update: So, thinking it was a pH issue causing uptake irregularities. Many of the yellow/reddish leaves have the FEEL of a healthier leaf even if they’re still discolored. Many fan leaves fell off with minor contact/pulling. I used lemon juice last night to flush with water in the 6.0 pH range and health may be returning. I’m not going to say it’s fixed, but the damage is hopefully contained for the time being. Pics and video show damages pretty well. Knowing it may creep back up, I'll keep feeding with closer to 6.0 pH water until pH Up/Down arrives and I can re-flush for the last week or two. Day 61 Update: Nothing new to report. Feels healthier than a few days ago still, but the countermeasures deployed seem to be holding for now. Buds seem to be filling out, I’m content for the night. Day 62 Update: Water and nutrients, maybe for the last time, tonight. New soil pH meter from Home Depot is hopefully more accurate. All water was pH'd to around 6 as the soil meter showed slightly alkaline still. I'm doing the best I can to keep this under control for another week, two at the most. I also got some soil acidifier amendments for the other plants because the readings were slightly alkaline for those pots. Day 63 Update: Got a set of mobile camera lenses to take macro photos of the trichomes. Its a work in progress. Otherwise, things seem okay today. Gonna press on keeping an eye on pH, but whatever shall be, shall be.
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@GeminiCQC
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Going back to autos only for this round. Trying out Earthbox jr.'s. As usual, I'm just gonna have fun and chill with the plants till they ready. The wedding will be more of a press plant, so I'm trying to be specific with it (not sure how)
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Plantas de buenas estructuras y fácil de cultivar ,resistente a las plagas y estrés hídricos. "WAKA" pasará a ser una de mis favoritas ,( guardaremos madres ) . una genéticas maravillosa muy resinosa de cogollos compactos . Olores muy marcados a cítricos especialmente limón y otras más dulces esto también se refleja al momento de degustar las flores al fumar. Seguiremos trabajando esta genéticas con las madres que seleccionamos de los fenotipos que más nos gustaron . Corte : 08.12.2019 (secado) Curado : 23.12.2019( puestos en frascos )