This Forbidden Dream is coming along nicely. The main-lining is working out well thus far. The weather in my neck of the woods is finally turning the corner and the forecast looks great 😎. This should give the heater a much needed break 😅 I really cleaned up some fan leaves this week and she didn’t mind much 😏 The coming week should see lots of new growth. 😎🍿

Welcome to Sweet Seeds Cup 🏆 Hey everyone :-) This week she has grown very nicely 😊. It increases very quickly and beautifully. Today she got the last time the organic vega fertilizer, since the lighting was switched to 12/12 about 6-8 days ago and started to produce her flowers. The next dose is the first dose of Canna Bio Bloom ☺️. Tomorrow I will take 2 - 3 shoots down from the bottom, that the full production goes to the thick buds above and will not be wasted on small popcorn buds at the bottom 😍🤗. Next weekend the next update follows as usual 👍. I wish you all a good start into the new week 👌, stay healthy 🙏🏻 and let it grow 😎🌱. Sweet Seeds Cup 🏆 Type: San Fernando Lemon Kush ☝️🏼 Genetics: OG Kush x Kosher Kush 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 220 W 💡💡☝️🏼 Earth: Canna Bio ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Canna Bio ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 6.0 - 6.3 💦💧

Growth been good had to space them out a bit to give them so

Nov 29: They seem to be accelerating in veg growth but I see a small portion of the leaf on the smaller plant either grew in mutated or somthing cut it, I haven’t seen a single bug in the box so I don’t think it’s that but you never know, and the bigger plant has some issues near the base of its stem, I noticed it before I did the LST and now I’m wondering if I should have addressed that issue before starting the LST. Let me know what you guys think! Dec 2: Walked into the room and noticed a faint smell, wasn’t any smell last night when I started the LST on the slower girl. Further inspection showed some white pistols on the bigger girl, I believe she is the culprit for the smell as the other seems about a week behind. They are both now LST‘d and leaf tucked. Enjoy the pics and vid’s! Dec 6: I have tied down some of the longer chutes on the bigger plant (will see in week 5 update) to create more airflow and light penetration as I didn’t even realize how bushy the stem and node sections had gotten. I have also cut the chutes coming off the first true leaf. I don’t think I will make any cuts to the smaller one as it’s already a slower growing pheno. Going on a trip starting the end of week secede to late week 8, so I have a automatic feeder coming from Amazon, and I will continue using it through flower to reduce open tent time.

The Canopy was so full and i decide today to make another Defoliation for better Light Penetration. I have just 11-16 Days left for the original Harvest Date. Just hope that i don’t get some Bananas now somewhere in the Buds 😌😃 better to make it right the last two times. But i don’t want to take to much In Future Runs i know now how to do it Only give Water with PH 6.8 until harvest. No Nutrients anymore Maybe wait one or two Weeks longer to get bigger Buds and more Couchlock Effect from it

Cut the little Canuck on day 75 before dawn and placed in tub of clean water for 4 hours to remove debris. Then hung under a shady tree to dry excess water. Very dry breezy day. By evening I weigh it at 168 grams stem and all. Then hung upside down bag open to dry. It was beginning to wilt after 48 hours... hopefully long enough to break down some carbs. I’ll be checking every day an if rain threatens I’ll put in shed. Hope to trim and bag in shed after 7 days to finish drying. Pyramid is ready to cut. It will get the same treatment. I know this is a little unorthodox and a bit risky getting the plant so wet before drying. I feel like it just gives the plant an extra day to use up any nutrients and break down those starches.

Start of week 7 and they looking great I think 🙃 had a problem with spiders but it's controlled now. That product "Anti-Sniper X" did worked very well. What you guys think? Out of 10?

I have not been able to spend much time with the plants so was glad i found an hour to transplant them to 5g, not so excited on missing the watering on this one. LOL but she came back the next day strong as ever

Que pasa familia, vamos con la segunda semana de vida de estas Tropicana poison F1 de Sweetseeds. Vamos al lío , las 4 semillas que germinaron con éxito se colocaron en macetas de 0.6 litros y asomaron 4, 100% ratio germinado. Realmente voy a necesitar 3 plantas así que retiraré la más pocha. El ph se controla en 6.2 , la temperatura la tenemos entre 20/22 grados y la humedad ronda el 50%. El ciclo de crecimiento puse 18h de luz, el foco está al 75% de potencia. Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨

Week 15. Had a look at the trichomes on the a few sites. 50%cloudy some embers rest are clear. And getting very long in comparison with her sister zkittlez organic. This bud seems to be hitting that 21% THC better, yet, lots of things are still an unknown. For example the exact THC/YIELD /QUALITY. Finished with the grow nute, to see can I bring more resin/trichomes. Seems to have been ok. Won't know it's true effects if any for a wk or so. Moved back on to bloom and bloom nutes, root stims, enzymes. Gave a hard flush to get rid of any old grow left and clear the weeks salts. 31/3/22 Led grow bars arrived. They sent me the wrong1s. So contacted them and they said instead of sending the 4 bars I ordered they sent this set that is better than the 4 and also gave me back my all the money for that part of the order and gave me 40e light bars for free. 31/3/22 Installed both 48x2 led chip bars 10 both bars are 5 watts each. Should help increase bottom-mid growth as it lags behind. The SF-1000 Light is great this is just for the rest of the huge zkittlez to catch up. RH is in a good range today 54%RH for the whole day since I woke up. Slowing down on fluid uptake. Use to be over 2l before she'd throw anything back. 1.8l is her limit now. I know I'm abit all over the place. But after looking through my nutes. I missed out on giving Nirvana, yeah the soil grows got it once a week but in coco meant to be from wk3-6 of bloom currently we are in week 6, just started so gonna squeeze in a weeks worth of Nirvana and its increased the PPM by 250 aswel as the. 5 increase in some PK focused nutes and some extra silica for the plant as she is weak and has HST'ed 3 colas and 2 stems. So, gonna try put her back on it. I really have been all over the place with giving nutes, more of a case of tweaking things to figure out what's right. After my beginners buys I can now say I can find the same if not better nutes that do the very same thing in the AN line or the GH tripack. They also have kleen roots that's like voodoo juice. Must cheaper, and then we have senzyme and ancient organic earth tea for piranha and tarantula which cost 70e a L as opposed to 12e a L for senzyme and ancient tea. It's just a case of shopping round and not getting sucked in my big words. Check out diaries that these fungi/enzymes are used and they work just as good as the expensive stuff. Also the jungle juice micro is a great trace element nute. 2/4/22 Stacking on lots of nice looking terps colors of purple in the bud. With lots of sugar balls. Hopefully buds will get bigger by about 10-20% hard to see but still about 15-20 white hairs. Much more lower down the bud it's it's like 50/50 stigmaVSambers Decided for the plants benefit I'm doing a 30min hard flush and restarting the whole nute programme again. Just got a little run-off back from a 1.8l feed and was 2200ppm 800 nearly more than the feed. 2/4/22 Did a hard flush today. Took 3 mins to get it down from 2200 to tap water level then threw 500ml of filtered water with cal mag extra 1ml/l. She was so sticky just now after lifting moving her colas with my arm to the side to take the TDA pic. Fuck she is so sticky. I took the HST-ed bud today. Weighted in at 1.9 wet after trim. Needed a sample anyways. It's looking like I'm going to have to do a 2 fucking part harvest. As there is just waaaayyyy too much undeveloped bud sites to harvest the plant I'd be losing over 1/2 of my harvest. So I've decided when the top 5 nodes are done. I'm gonna take them and and set the plant up evenly and give her another 2-3 wks to finish and I should get way more if I bring her to harvest in total in 2-3wks. I'd be losing soooo much. It's hard to show you guys what I mean. All you can see is the top bud sites. But that's only 30% of the plant. At least 70% is behind 50 of that is so far behind it will not catch up in time as long as these top 5 colas are taking all the energy and nutes, it's the only thing that makes sense at this stage. With the added lights I know there only 10 watts but I'm hoping that will increase my mid sites. I'm gonna just try take as little off as I can but max on what I do take off should hopefully bring her about and I'll be for sure giving the rest of her a 3 day rest period in the dark. Oh btw. If anyone has any idea as how to go about this message me. I've read up all I can. I NEED PPL WHO HAVE DONE THIS BEFORE. So heres my plan. I'm gonna lower down the wk before I take the colas back down to a 16-8 then I'm gonna let her rest for 24hrs with full light water and so on, (she'll be on flawless finish for the week), hoping that'll keep what I need alive to finish her off, cause if she dies on me, I'm fucked. I know 24hrs without light is not good. But 50/50 she'll pull through and go right back to work after I take her colas off I'll hard flush her and back on nutes for 2-3weeks. What u guys think? 4/4/22 GREAT UPDATE...I'M SO FUCKING HAPPY 😁😁😁😁 Finally, some bud anyone would be proud to have produced. It wasn't even fully done, the bud I dried in a box took 4 days. Got .45 back from 2.1 it was fucking AMAZING!! The bud isn't even done, wasn't rested. Cured and the taste/stone is top class. That alone I had a joint and a bong. And I'm BAKED. Defo more leaning on the indica side 75/25 Sativa. But left decent amount of trichs in the 3tier grinder. Defo needs a flush and to be finished she's going to be pushing near 20%THC. She already nearly there tbh but that bud alone had about 40% clear trichomes. And she's still more indica than sativa. The organic bud is 12-15% the 100 sativa. This bud, bloodshot eyes, heavy head stone. Munchies galore. I'm stuck to the couch. I WANT MORE. Roll on baby roll on, I'm so tempted to chop her. Not gonna happen though. I'm over the moon though. TBH i was worried that this bud would be 12-15%. Thank God it's not the case. It's powerful. Doesn't take much to get high. Idk about you but if I don't get that from bud within am hour I'd go through 1.5-2gs by myself to get what. 5 gets you in 10mins. I've slowly started to feel the Sativa high, uplifted, really happy after about 5mins of smoking my joint/Bong. Then 10-15 mins later bye bye sativa and HELLO indica. Heavy head high the last 2 hours 30-40mins in I got the munchies heavy. KFC sorted that, I dunno about you, but a weed is like a nice glass of wine and the weed made my meal go down a treat. Will be running it off for the next week but it was worth it. Think I'll have myself q little sleep now, in a little goof 2 hours in. 100% NOT A DAY TIME SMOKE. I can hardly operate this phone and I'm having trouble remembering what I'm writing, oh and am I raml8ng. 🤣🤣 night night at 6pm. I also took a 2.5 gram tester, it was a bud that I k8nds broke off when checking for stigma' (white pistils underneath the bud at the top part of the top cola broke off and this bud has purple notes in it, it's the very same looking bud that is in yday picks, That's when I broke a 2.4 wet purple resin/trich balls bud. It glitters in the light looks fill of trich balls. She's 75 cloudy. Some milky turning cloudy and about 10% long clear tops with milky bottoms, but the bud was taken by mistake just as the light turned off so it had no rest period at all. Hopefully if I can keep the RH low I'll be able to sort out my plants and even make them stronger over the next few weeks. BTW, For coco, taratula&piranha are very expensive, yea they have some benefit in coco of course. But there is much cheaper alternatives in the AN line. Senzyme will help break down old roots like tarantula, help nute uptake and also has piranha properties. Also mixed with ancient earth organic tea and that is more than enough fungi/enzymes for coco. But if you don't mind spending the money, you can use them but they are best in soil. Even do a 50/50 soil light mix/coco that alone is the best recommend substrate for doing autos/fems, especially if you are wanting to make the most out of these expensive nutes. Voodoo ((Tarantula)) ((Piranha ))) Use these cheaper subs for coco with the voodoo juice. SENZYME+ACIENT EARTH ORGANIC TEA. 6/4/22 Okay, so things, not so well. She's stopped taking nutes. And cut drinking by a 1/10. No nute change from the feed. She's in nute lock. It's cause the top parts are done. And they are the main colas but everything else coming from them is miles behind. So, my minds made up. I'm going to top harvest this week. I've no choice. She isn't taking nutes. If I don't do it now the bud/larf below will mature into light airy bud....larf. gotta get her back taking nutes. 6/4/22 YAY, Finally a dehumidifier that works. This thing literally has been running 1 hr. With the grow room door being closed the RH can drop to 45% but with the HEPA filter the smell is gone out the house and it has heated the whole house, it's crazy what this 20l dehuimifier does. Bonkers. Finally I am hitting peak conditions for growing, when my door is closed I can get the RH in the tent to hit 70%+ and now with this machine I can get it as low as 45%, it's only been on 1hr. In my tent this is how much electric it uses. Look at the pic above 218watts in 20c temp 60% RH that's our house when the heating is off by turning it on it drops in the range of 50% after a couple of hours. temp is 23% so I'd say it uses in the mid range so maybe 230watts. Yes, the electricity bill will go up but bye bye gas, as this thing heats out whole house much better. Worth the money, if you have high RH in your tent don't put a dehuimifier in your tent get a good 20l at least or 12l if you keep your grow room door closed. This one is 259£ 330euro. It A energy rated. Won tons of awards and with not having to use the central heating anymore it'll actually even itself out. Great buy, it's really going to transform what I can get out of the bud as for quality and with my tent getting to 70%+ with the grow room door closed and then when in flower I can get it down to 45% and maybe that'll get even better. SAME DAY: So with my RH under perfect cond I think waiting any longer would be madness as I will risk losing a massive bloom in the mid-lower section that's full of stigma that If I don't act fast will end up turning into lots of amber pistils like little balls of stigma. I was preparing for this: I've been giving her water the last 3 days, today is the third. Overfed her to get run-off and was 1650, (meaning the top colas have stopped feeding). Hard flushed got ppm down to 210 and then after 2 hours through 500ml of flawless finish 2ml/l dose. This is meant to be given for a week, but here's the thing, I'm only harvesting 30% of the plant. Maybe will push it to 40% I'm taking the top colas any any well formed enough bud with no more than 30% of stigma. So 70% amber pistil buds will be taken. The 30% is just white pistils that could do with another week. But I'd rather take 10% and help the plant max out and hopefully she'll finish up. Cause if she stalls I'm gonna be left with a lot of poxy larf. So, sadly the flush will be halted t9morrow come 12pm I'm putting her into 12hrs of dark and taking what I need to. Hard flushing the flawless finish, let her drink up plain for till the next day and then back on a 800-1200 ppm depending how the plant reacts. I really don't know what's gonna happen. I know the top colas will be harsh but I've had a tester and to be honest I'm more than happy with it, I won't be curing the colas it will only being out the chemicals in her. 30-40% of petty dark good bud, little harsh but more than good enough, she'll been in nute lock the last week anyways so. She barley taking 3-400ppm out of her feeds and that's just a guess. Let's see what happens. And there wasn't any way I could of kept the top colas going as the plant is confused. I know that might not make sense. But the plant feeds from the top down, if the top isn't drawing up feed it's not drawing it full stop. Hence why the lower-mid growth has stalled. This is more of a see what can I save now. I could either just let her finish for the next 2 weeks. Takes what's on top and be happy with 50-60% larf. So, 40% of good bud and hopefully beem able to briny the other 60% to full harvest makes more sense to me. If it fails it fails the bud will finish off the way it would of, or worse it'll just finish. Let's see what happens over the next 48hrs. BTW dehuimifier works 1hr on 1 off goes between 45RH to 53 over the hours it's not on. Thanks for reading gottagrowsometime

This new LED’s from futur vert is the best of the best !! Worth every penny

Mise en route des graines pour ce test Jour 1 : mise en pot 24/09/24 13graines ont germer Recette du living soil pour 10l 5litre terreau compost équin bovin ovin végétal 5litre terreau intérieur 500gr biochar 900gr lombric 50gr luzerne 5gr micro granulée it45 5gr pollen d’abeille 5gr levure de bière 50gr tourteau karanja 10gr bactérie soluble 200 zeolith chabasit 10gr Levures Saccharomyces Cerevisiae 2gr Endomycorhizes RHIZOPHAGUS IRREGULARIS 2gr Bacillus IT35 Amyloliquefaciens Il est actuellement en maturation depuis 2semaine j’attends que les graines germes et développe bien leur racines Ensuite je rempoterai dans des pots de 300/400ml que je garderais pour une végétation de 3/4/5 semaines le temps que je récolte ce qui a dans la tente Ça s’annonce beau ! Le terreau Terralba ou terre 4 composts est un terreau naturel exceptionnel. Il s'utilise tel quel en extérieur pour stimuler la vie de vos sols, planches de cultures, grands pots... Augmente le stock d'humus dans le sol, la rétention d'eau et d'air. De la germination à la récolte. Sans risque de brûlure. Ce terreau universel peur s'utiliser dans tous les cycles de cultures extérieures. Nous vous conseillons un mélange à 50/50 avec notre terreau Horticole INNT pour une base de culture durable et réutilisable en intérieur. Composition : composts équin, bovin, ovin et végétal maturés 24 mois minimum. Composition : 1% (N) total 0,7% (P205) 0,9% (K20) 0,5% (MgO) 3,6 (CaO) 24% de MO C/N : 11 PH : 8 Le terreau Terralba est un terreau universel exceptionnel. Ce terreau innovant très drainant avec innovation fibre de mousse et fibre textile recyclées est comparable à un substrat de type fibre de coco. Il est aussi enrichi en compost. Il peut servir de la germination jusqu'à la récolte. Nous vous conseillons un mélange à 50/50 avec notre terreau 4Xcomposts EXT&INT pour une base de culture durable et réutilisable. Écologique, restructurant, la terreau enrichie et aère le sol durablement - notamment les sols argileux - tout en lui redonnant jeunesse ! Composition : • 1,2% (N) total • 0,4% (P205) • 0,8% (K20) • 49% de MO • C/N : 22,4 • PH : 7,3 Le charbon végétal actif est capable d’absorber jusqu’à cinq fois son poids propre en eau ainsi que les éléments nutritifs qui s’y trouvent. Il joue ainsi le rôle de catalyseur et d'amplificateur pour les fertilisants traditionnels, qu'ils soient d'origine organique ou minérale. Ce pourquoi il est idéal pour activer un sol et pour les thés de compost oxygénés. Le charbon végétal améliore la diffusion et la disponibilité des éléments nutritifs dans le sol et offre des conditions propices au développement des micro-organismes. Le Biochar peut être introduit dans une grande variété de sols. Il est particulièrement efficace dans les sols pauvres, difficiles et acides. Pour faire agir rapidement et efficacement sa capacité d’amendement, le charbon végétal est enrichi et biologiquement activé avec des micro-organismes. Le Biochar se comporte ainsi comme un structurateur et un activateur dans le but de valoriser les sols. Composition : • Charbon végétal actif 31% • Matière organique 33% • Matière sèche 75% • C/N : 17 • PH : 7,2 • Azote (N) : 2,1 % dont 1,2 % azote organique • Phosphore (P205) : 0,74% • Potassium (K20) : 1,18% • Calcium (Ca) : 6,8% • Magnésium (MgO) : 0,65% Le lombricompost apporte à la plante des éléments nutritifs tels que l'azote, le phosphore et le potassium, qui sont essentiels à sa croissance. En outre, il contient de nombreux oligo-éléments et micro-organismes qui peuvent être bénéfiques pour la plante. Le lombricompost a également une forte capacité de rétention d'eau et peut améliorer la structure du sol, ce qui peut être bénéfique pour les plantes. En utilisant du lombricompost, vous pouvez ainsi favoriser la croissance de vos plantes de manière naturelle et écologique. Le lombricompost est un fertilisant, amendement organique à la formule haut de gamme. Totalement naturel, il résulte de la digestion de fumier bovin et équin par des vers de terre. Les lombrics transforment ces déchets en un compost riche en nutriments et en micro-organismes bénéfiques pour les plantes. Le lombricompost présente une texture fine et friable, regorgeant de nutriments essentiels tels que l’azote, le phosphore, le potassium et d’autres micro-organismes bénéfiques pour les plantes. Son utilisation améliore la qualité du sol, favorise la croissance des plantes et contribue à la conservation de l’environnement en réduisant les déchets organiques. Le lombricompost est donc une source naturelle de nutriments et de matière organique pour les plantes, et peut être utilisé comme engrais ou comme amendement du sol. Il surpasse ainsi le compost, grâce au travail du lombric (E. Foetida) qui transforme le fumier en un super compost ! 10kg de fumier sont nécessaire pour obtenir 1kg de lombricompost. Composition : • Matière sèche 65,3% • Matière organique 48,7% • Ph 7,9 CE 5,98dS/m • Azote (N) 2,4% dont NO3 0,28% • Phosphore (P205) 3,2% • Potasse (K2O) 3,8% • Acides Humiques 6,2% • Acides Fulviques 0,9% • C/N 11,8 La luzerne fait un excellent paillis, c'est un inoculum de bactéries et de champignons ! Elle contient des niveaux élevés de protéines. Elle fournit de nombreux minéraux importants, dont l'azote, le potassium, le calcium, le fer, l’acide folique, etc. Elle stimule la croissance saine des racines et elle contient des hormones naturelles qui aident à prévenir les maladies des racines. Idéal pour les thés de compost oxygénés (TCO) Protéines : 16%. Naturellement riche en protéines, minéraux, vitamines, enzymes et acides aminés. Micro granules it45 Amendement calcaire, dolomie et gypse avec préparation microbienne à base de Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens IT45 et Saccharomyces cerevisiae LYCC6420 Formulation : micro granulés (1 – 1,6 mm) à base de rhizobactéries favorisant la croissance des plantes qui se multiplient et colonisent rapidement la zone des racines, et de levures Saccharomyces cerevisiae souche LYCC ayant un effet probiotique. Les PGPR produisent des enzymes qui solubilisent le phosphore à partir de complexes inorganiques et organiques dans le sol et stimulent la croissance des racines efficaces augmentant ainsi la zone d'interception des éléments nutritifs. Les levures LYCC permettent une occupation de la rhizosphère par une flore bénéfique. Composition : • Matière sèche : 96,8% • Matière organique : 91,5% • N total : 6,6% dont N soluble dans l'eau 0,17% • P total : 2% • K total : 1,7% Micro-granulés : • Oxyde de calcium (CaO) total : 30% • Oxyde de magnesium (MgO) total : 7% • Anhydride sulfurique (SO3) : 13% Le pollen d’abeille est l'ingrédient de base de la fabrication du miel par les abeilles. Riche en vitamines et minéraux, il est qualifié « d'aliment parfait », y compris pour les plantes ! La levure de bière est une matière vivante qui permet un meilleur fermentation pour les thés de compost oxygénés notamment conseillé pour accompagner les croissances ou apporter un gros coup de pousse pendant la floraisons. La levure de bière stimule la vie des sols également à l'arrosage direct en apportant tout aussi bien que dans le TCO sa population l'espèce micro-bactérienne positive pour votre sols ainsi que des oligo-éléments et diverse vitamines. Composition : • 2,8% (N) total dont 1% (Norg), • 2,3% (P205) • 1,6% (K20) • 35% de MO • C/N : 8. PH : 8,4. Le tourteau de Karanja est un complexe absorbant (argilo humique) qui renforce et stimule la vie microbienne du sol. Riche en éléments fertilisants, il permet une assimilation lente et progressive de l'Azote et donc une régularité de l'apport. Composition : • 4,3% (N-Azote) • 5,2% (P205-Phosphore) • 2% (K2O-Potasse) Matières Organiques : 67,3% Carbone Organique : 33,7% Les bactéries solubles sont utiles pour enrichir les sols, activer le processus de compostage et favoriser la création d'humus. Avec plus de 55 éléments nutritifs, ce produit concentre un mélange de vie microbienne bénéfique à tous types de sols. Véritable concentré de matières végétales et minérales, et d'une sélection de végétaux naturels compostés, nos bactéries solubles permettent une libération immédiate des nutriments. • 2,8% (N) total dont 1% (Norg), • 2,3% (P205) • 1,6% (K20) • 35% de MO • C/N : 8. PH : 8,4. Une zéolithe se comporte comme une « Super Argile » perméable qui retient l’Azote et les éléments minéraux nutritifs au voisinage des racines et les relâche lentement en fonction des besoins de la plante. Cela se traduit par une croissance constante mais rapide du végétal. La zéolithe permet de réduire à la fois le nombre d’arrosages et la consommation en fertilisants car ces derniers sont moins soumis aux effets du lessivage et de l’évaporation. Améliore durablement la fertilité foncière des sols. Peut s’utiliser en mélange à tous types de substrats. Récolte les surplus d’eau et réagit à la chaleur en suintant. Diffuse lentement les éléments minéraux nutritifs et l’azote retenus dans l’eau (évite l’acidification des sols. Riche en oligo-éléments, permet un développement racinaire soutenu. Retiens les pollutions des sols (nitrate, mercure). Se mélange à tous types de substrats et toutes les cultures. Idéal bonsaïs, plantes arides Accroit la capacité d’échange globale du « complexe argilo-humique ». Agit comme anti-mottant. Allège les sols lourds et bloquants trop argileux en améliorant le drainage et le ressuyage en surface. Volume poral de 47%. Améliore la structure des sols en s’opposant à l’acidification de ceux-ci par son effet tampon et par le retard de la nitrification de l’azote ammoniacal. Apporte des oligo-éléments. Augmente la résistance au piétinement. Diminue la fréquence des rempotages. Empêche le pourrissement des racines. Favorise la ramification. Modère le développement des mousses. Permet des économies d’eaux et d’engrais. Résiste au dessèchement et diminue la formation de « feutres ». Retient l’eau sans changement de volume. Sert de support aux microorganismes, ce qui contribue à la dégradation des déchets de coupes. Les zéolithes sont des roches cristallines, présentant des capacités d'adsorption particulièrement importantes vis à vis des polluants que l'on rencontre dans l'eau et dans certains liquides, ainsi que dans l'air et les gaz. Elles sont extrêmement poreuses comme les charbons activés et elles peuvent être chargées électriquement pour opérer comme des échangeurs d'ions. La zéolithe est un produit naturel qui respecte notre environnement. Utilisé dans le milieu industriel depuis de longues années déjà, ce minerai aux propriétés filtrantes particulières commence à se vulgariser dans le domaine de la piscine privée, de l'aquariophilie, des bassins d'agrément, de la récupération des eaux de pluie, ou encore de la culture des bonsaïs et autres plantations diverses par exemple... 4 points techniques majeurs : - Grâce à leur propriété hydrophile, les zéolithes peuvent adsorber l'eau jusqu'à 30% de leur poids total et sans aucune variation de volume : pas de gonflement en présence d'eau ni de craquement en cas de déshydratation comme certaines argiles. Les zéolithes sont d'ailleurs de puissants agents anti-mottant (anti-agglomérant). Cette propriété est très appréciée dans le cas des terrains de golf et autres aires de jeux. - Les zéolithes ne captent pas l'eau de façon irréversible, elles se comportent comme une réserve au voisinage des racines. Celles-ci peuvent capter l'eau en fonction de leur besoin. Les zéolithes permettent ainsi de réduire les besoins d'arrosage jusqu'à 35 %. - Une zéolithe se comporte comme une "Zone de Stockage" qui retient l'azote et les éléments minéraux nutritifs au voisinage des racines et les relâche lentement en fonction des besoins de la plante. Cela se traduit par une croissance harmonieuse mais rapide du végétal. - La capacité d'adsorption et l'énorme rapport surface/volume des zéolithes, vont permettre à la fois la rétention de la solution du sol et une bonne oxygénation au voisinage du système racinaire. Les zéolithes favorisent donc l'organisation biologique des sols en contribuant au développement de la micropopulation. L'apport en nutriments (N, P, K) est réduit de 20 à 25 %. Ces derniers, adsorbés par la zéolithe, sont beaucoup moins sensibles au lessivage et à l'évaporation. Composition minéralogique : Chabasite 70 % Phillipsite 2 % Feldspath 5 % Augite 3 % Illite - Mica 2% Analyse atomique: Sio2 52 % AL2o3 17 % CaO 5,7 % K2O 6,1 % MgO 2 %, Na2O 0,6 % Fe2O3 3,6 % Cerevisiae Souche LYCC 6420 STIMULE LA VIE DU SOL PAR DÉCOMPOSITION 100% naturel, sans OGM et sans additifs, il a une action rapide qui permet la libération d'éléments nutritifs et la stabilisation des agrégats. Conséquences ? Les besoins de la plante sont synchronisés, meilleur rendement et qualité à la clé ! • Stimule les population de micro-organismes « décomposeurs » : +32% de population 24 heures après apport • Libère les éléments nutritifs fixés sur la matière organique : 40 à 50 U d’N, 5 à 15 U de P, 15 à 30 U de S libérées 1 à 3 mois après apport • Améliore la structure du sol : stabilisation des agrégats • Réduction de la fertilisation minérale et préservation de l’environnement Sous forme de poudre mouillable. Il contient des spores du champignon mycorhizien Rhizophagus Irregularis MUCL57891 avec des levures inactivées spécifiques. 2000 spores/gramme d’endomycorhize Rhizophagus Irregularis MUCL57891 et Saccharomyces Cerevisiae LYC6420 inactivée. Se connecte efficacement au système racinaire et forme un vaste réseau souterrain de filaments, qui agissent comme des extensions pour atteindre les nutriments et l’eau au-delà de la rhizosphère La bactérie Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens se fixe dans la rhizosphère en se nourrissant des exsudats racinaires. En contrepartie, elle stimule la croissance racinaire en sécrétant des métabolites de croissance et solubilise le phosphore en sécrétant des phytases (enzymes). Effet probiotique consistant en l’utilisation de micro-organismes bénéfiques pour la nutrition et la santé des plantes.

Missed a week Day 151 since sprouting Week 5 of flower 2 caps full of Tiger Bloom yesterday with non ph'd water Don't have enough time lately to get it all done , NOT happy with this one currently!

Off and running with some flowers starting to show up and swell. Had some nutrient deficiencies I had to address but looks like all is dialed in now. Started using Fish Shit and some Grow Big to help with deficiencies and this seems to have helped, but I will continue to monitor and update. 🌱🤙

this is the peyote with some problems in the leaves but moving forward ;)

I cannot wait to see how this beautiful Queen is going to look at te end of the flowering stage, she’s the closet I’ve came to LST in a manner I wanted this baby to grow, loving how brunches twirl around the twig, l have stopped growing Christmas tree shaped babies. I LST from the seedling phase right through to flowering, you should not forget that this plant can take stress, imagine it was growing in the wild, some stress in your plant’s lie is critical for positive growth, from my point of view my trees are going to struggle with big buds, because it does not have this thick stems.

Sobre el riego decir que puede variar la dosis de alguno de ellos según la EC , priorizo antes la EC que las dosis y en alguna ocasión pueden ser más ml/L de lo que digo. Con 33 dias me dió por recortar algunas pocas hojas y así ganasen un poco más de luz algunos cogollos bajos que habian quedado en la sombra. Entre quitar hojas o dejarlas obté por hacer esto xd