🗓️ 6° WEEK FLO // DAY 36-42 (from switch) // DAY 113-119 (from dry seed) ⚡- Light: 30 cm / 250 watt; ⌛- Schedule: 12/12; 🌡️- 22° C - 65% RH average; 📑- PH 5.9 - EC 2.3. PH is dropping on the #2. I'll change the DWCs next week, meanwhile I'm trying to keep the PH in the right range; 💧- 7° DWC change; 🍔- Flowering blend: tap water EC 0.4 + Silic 0.5 ml/l + CalMag 1 ml/l + Hydro A-B 1.8 ml/l + Oligo Spectrum 2 ml/l + Green Sensation 1 ml/l; 🌱- Things are moving forward, both are gaining weight. 🆕- Last week I got the TrolMaster TCS-1 (@TrolMaster_Europe) and I started to track my grow box data. I will add these info once I harvest!

Got everything hung up. Stripped the fan leaves and broke down into sections. Run 60/60 or as close as i can get until the stems snap.

Tag 35: Den Pflanzen geht es prächtig, wir hatten viel Regen und es ist nicht mehr so warm. Beide Pflanzen haben das LST ung scroggen gut überstanden. Teilweise ist mir dabei eine Pflanze gebrochen und sie ist trotzdem normal weitergewachsen.

Marshydro lo mejor en luz una buena invercion. Este cultivo es sólo con agua 6.5 a 7 Ph.

Captain’s Log (I know that’s a different show) Today was my first day on earth and Willie got me straight to work mixing and digging preparing the soil. I would add 2ltrs of Plagron lightmix, 0.5ltrs of perlite, then 6grms of RQS Easy Boost, 1grm of Mycorrhiza mix, 0.5grms of Rhizobacter, mix it up and then keep repeating these steps until the pot was full. I feel like I could sleep for a whole light year. Seed was soaked in ph’d water for 24hrs before planting. I’ve got a lot of thinking and soul searching to do before I can decide how much Lightside and Darkside I want in my strain, or Sativa and Indica as they call it here on earth. I think I may need to try contact the ghost of Obi Wan for some advice on this one.

Week 3 begins for LSD and Green Crack. Both ladies are looking good, but had some small signs of deficiency. Added big bud coco and upped feeding another liter (split feed day 1 & day 5 of each week), hopefully this will help resolve the deficiencies. Thanks for stopping by growfessors 👽🌳💚

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

She had a tough life, I messed up her roots at the beginning and then overwatered, was really stunted and not growing for a while. Finally started growing normally, a bit late but looked fine. I had to hand her over to a friend for the last 4 weeks and she looked strange and buds were quite solid hard and dry.

10 gallon res, Clonex Solution 5ml, CalMag, 3ml, Armor Si 2ml. 7 Bluberry Cobbler, 8 Valley Girl.

2/10 Fed 2/10 water ph 6.3 2/14 fed tonight happy valentines

mrjones - Slurricane #7 S1 🌱Slurricane #7 S1 @inhousegenetics_official 👨‍🌾🏽GD Grower: MrJones 🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹GOALS🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹 🌞Environment - 75/80℉ and 55% Humidity 💧 Feeding - Advanced Nutrients Organic ⚗️Soil - 50% Ocean Forest / 20% Tupur Royal Gold / 10% Earth Worm castings / 10% lobster Compost / 10% Additional Perlite 🍃Training / HST, Will be topping, Cloning, and creating larger plants, and placing to flower under a trellis 🕷️ IPM - Will be using Green Cleaner" 1 OZ per Gallon, and CannControl from Mammoth alternating between product each month for Integrated Pest Management. 💡Mars Hydro LED / Veg Geeklight Monster Board 480W V4 / Flower 480W FC 4800 🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹 📜 Rambling - Week 16 / Plants are in full flower and stretch - they are looking great! Moved the final Slurricane #7 S1 outside. 🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹 ▶️ Sunday - 05.23.21 / Feeding with 1/2 Gallon in each plant, the flowers are forming and they are all just looking so good! ▶️ Monday - 05.24.21 / No watering today - these ladies are looking great ▶️ Tuesday - 05.25.21 / Fed with half a gallon of above-mentioned nutrient / started defoliation will need to focus this down, I am going to start a Bloom Tea this evening as well. ▶️ Wednesday - 05.26.21/ No watering today - these ladies are looking great ▶️ Thursday - 05.27.21 / Fed with half a gallon of above-mentioned nutrient / started defoliation will need to focus this down, I am going to start a Bloom Tea this evening as well. ▶️ Friday - 05.28.21 / Continued to defoliate the ladies, still another hour or so to go, hard to get to them without fudging with the buds, I let the lady on the left side of my tent get away from me! ▶️ Saturday - 05.29.21 / Just a quick feeding and pictures, have places to go and people to see today, still need to put more time into my defoliation! 🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹

Hello Diary. Fourth week of flowering and the Hulkberries look great, two more weeks and we will have a harvest. 😎 The branches started to bend from the weight of the flowers, so after taking photos in the box I put wooden sticks to stabilize it. Hulkberry # 1 which is much more branched than # 2, got three rods because I had to connect almost every branch. At Hulkberry # 2, one rod was enough, and I tied it lightly around with a rope. 💪 The flowers look great and there are a lot of them, on the lower branches they are not so developed, but I expected that considering the shade from the upper branches and the distance of light. I’m not very great with descriptions, so I have photos that describe it a lot better than I will in words. 😉 Earlier this week I inserted two dehumidifiers that have some gel in them that gradually absorbs moisture, I can’t say anything drastic has happened, the humidity in the air is still higher than I would like at this stage. Two circular fans and a large exhaust fan that I put on maximum is all I can do at the moment. The temperature is also high in the box, it is around 28 degrees but sometimes it rises up to 29 degrees, but genetically they belong to a warmer climate, so it might suit them warmer. They look happy. 😎 As we get closer to the end, I decided this was the last week that they got BioBizz, so from now on they’re just on the water. I also made a little effort to take more photos. How could they not when they are so beautiful. 😍 Let’s take a look at what this week looked like. 02/08/2020 - Day 45. Watering. This time I watered only with water, I did not add BioBizz food. I still regulated the water at p.H 6.5 with Plagron’s, Lemon Kick. Each time I prepare 7 lit. water and with that I water all three plants evenly. 06/08/2020 - Day 49. Photographing and watering. Last feeding, I added BioBizz on schedule for week 7. In 7 lit. water I added BioBizz and adjusted p.H to 6.5. That's all for this week. The plants are beautiful, they smell great and now I can’t wait for the end. See you soon.

_____ Week 7 | Day 50 - 56 ______ Day 50 🌞 - Install 2 LED BARS from Spider-Farmer. https://www.proximitylighting.com/home-2-1 THE OPTIMAL ADDITION OF LIGHT By increasing PPFD levels in the most light-hungry layers of the crop, deploys addional wattage where it's most useful to encourage: • Tighter internodal spacing • Larger average cola size • Increased cola uniformity • Higher output per square foot Day 50 🌞 - 2 Liter each Plant....gluck, gluck, gluck.... Day 53 🌞 - light switch to 12/12 - defoliation all leafs under the net Day 55 🌞 - 2,5 Liter each plant ____________________________________________________________________________________________ Light - 18/6 h - 400 Watt 60% Dim. PPFD - 600 - 650 µmol Temp. avg. - 22,1° Hum. avg. - 72 % RLH

When you show love to a plant, she will do the same to you. That’s what’s happening! This gorgeous Euphoria is a gift from nature (and RQS 😄). Not much to say about the ferts, which are doing their job. Flowers are getting bigger, so yeah, cool!

Did some cuttings on her, found some bugseggs not much It's been raining a lot but she won't be up for very much longer and I still hope for some sunny days😘

A step back recently: Started a final flush (2 days in), and decided to start feeding her again - thanks to some great GD input! 250 ppm at re-start and will work my way to 500ppm? She's still rockin' along - like nothing happened. She topped out at 350 ppm without tanking PH, so she is stable here. PH is now swinging down fairly quickly last 12 hours. Drained off 1/3 of reservoir and get reservoir down to 250PPM. 5 days later, major PH swings down again. Mixed another fresh reservoir. I am using Zero Water 5 gallon system, and just realized the PPM coming out was 100, and PH at 3! If I am at 100 today, that means these filters have been shot for a while, maybe since start of my PH issue. There is also interesting information about when zero water filters reach their expectancy. They put out fishy smell and otherwise. I will be watching my filters more often and taking more notes since this ZeroWater 5 gal system is really the way to go if you are only growing a plant or two. Filters are a bit spendy but when you take time, gas, convenience etc. its a no brainer (if the water coming out is zero:) - I get about 15 gallons per filter (175ppm from tap). Day 70. It’s been about a day since new res change. Steady Eddie at 250 ppm and 6.2. I’ll let her drink the bucket down a good ways if things remain stable with a drift down. I doubt it though, 5 gallon is fine for 12” autos but at 2’ she really needed 8 gal. Time to up the R&D on the cabinet! Also checked Zero Water again and filter is now putting out 200ppm of 3.0 water. New filters installed! Hope she finishes soon, the top of her canopy slowly getting cooked over the last 10 days. 8" of light distance is too little. PPFD 2000+ at the top, but leaf temps are in the upper 70's. Gotta hit a decent DLI on these lower buds - without nuking the top nugs, right?! As the week concludes, she’s in a fresh bath, at 250ppm @ 6.0 and running stable again. New water filters installed so zero water variable removed. Last serving of half+ teaspoon of GH dry KB ripening, and will reduce ppm by 25/day until I reach 10-15%. 1-2 day flush, if at all.

Hey what’s up fellow growers I made a mistake and deleted my dairy for these clones so I just put em all in one This is week 6-8 since I had these clones All pictures is from beginning to recent I’m growing four different strains Sherbertlato , Peanbutter Breath x Cookies , Wedding Cake , & Gorilla Cookies I have them in a 4x4 diy tent under a 1200w Aglex LED & a 600w FSg tek LED budget light I only water ph at 6.6 with cal-mag since I received them I’ve transplanted twice from solo cups to 1 gallon to 5 gallon grow bags inside of a mixture of fox farm ocean forest and roots organics 707 soil I still have the wedding cake and sherbetlato in 1 gallon grow bags til they grow taller then their going in 5 gallon before flower Today is April 5th I just watered and cut some clones then placed them under an diy scrog net Once the cuttings roots I’m going to flip the Gorilla Cookies and Peanutbutter Breath x Cookies into flower I must say although this is my first grow I think I’m doing an okay job with these clones a lot better than I did with my auto flower grow I learned to watch and time my watering and feeding and I’m still learning a grower I know where I got my clones said I’m catching on fast tho n keeping my environment clean and air good not getting any bugs specially without any expensive equipment So stay tuned Im only getting better specially with the advise and techniques

Привет друзья.✋ Наше знакомство продолжается с новым фотоцветущим растением от Smail_Seeds сорт TROPICANNA POISONZKITTLEZ XXL Regular F1 reg. Сегодня растению 73 дня. Перевёл на 12/12 1.10.2023 Перешло в активную фазу цветения Растение очень хорошо развивается, ни каких сбоев в генетике не наблюдается😀 Сорт выводим сами. Смотри мой профиль, у нас всегда есть что то интересное. Не забудь поставить лайк❤️, если понравилась как прошла неделя И читайте наш TELEGRAM: https://t.me/smail_seeds #Smail_Seeds 😀