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FISH SH!T THE ORGANIC SOIL CONDITIONER (used twice before and always noticed instantly) Fish Shit is a living product! It provides a complex Microbial profile that includes thousands of different species of bacteria, fungi, and protozoa. This profile is closer to a natural ecosystem than anything you will find on the market. Fish Shit helps release essential oils and terpenes which contribute to the building of a myriad of flavonoids. Flavanoids play a key role in the development of the most potent aromas and tasteful flavors of a plant and its fruit. Fish Shit contains beneficial microorganisms that help plants maximize nutrient uptake. It does this by transforming nutrients into more usable forms and keeping these nutrients in the soil longer. During photosynthesis plants naturally produce exudates (chemicals that are secreted through their roots). Through these exudates, plants can attract the types of good bacteria that are beneficial to them at different points in their growing cycle. These good bacteria cover the roots and act as a barrier to the invasion of disease-causing organisms that may harm the plant. What Are Enzymes? Before we dive headfirst into how, exactly, enzymes can benefit cannabis plants, it helps to understand a little about what these microscopic proteins do. Essentially, enzymes facilitate chemical reactions. They do so by binding with a substrate and forming or breaking molecular bonds. In this context, the substrate is the molecule upon which an enzyme acts to boost the efficiency of a reaction. •substrate /sŭb′strāt″/ •noun •The material or substance on which an enzyme acts. A surface on which an organism grows or is attached. An underlying layer; a substratum. Enzymes are proteins with complex 3D shapes that feature regions called active sites. When the substrate binds to these active sites, it forms an enzyme-substrate complex that causes a chemical reaction to take place, temporarily changing the structure of the enzyme and ultimately causing molecules to either come together or break apart. As a result, molecular products are released, and the enzyme returns to its original shape. Specific enzymes are capable of binding with certain substrates, as the substrate fits into the active site more or less via a lock-and-key principle. Although, new research suggests a more accurate theory of "induced fit", in which enzymes and substrates undergo structural changes to facilitate the reaction. If you take the human body as an example, we have an abundance of enzymes in our saliva and digestive system. These molecules bind with substrates in these regions (food particles), working to break down the food we eat into usable parts before converting them to energy. Enzymes in cannabis work in a similar way to the example highlighted above. Typically, enzymes occur in soil naturally, but if your soil mix is lacking organic material, or you're growing hydroponically, then adding enzymes directly to the substrate is crucial. By using them in cannabis growing, enzymes not only help break down essential nutrients into smaller, more readily available pieces, but they also support the digestion of dead root cells, clearing a direct path for nutrients. Overall, enzymes make it easier for your cannabis plants to absorb all the elements they need to reach their full potential. For growers, a plant that reaches its full potential means a bucketload of juicy buds come harvest. This is essential if you want to reuse a pot with old systems left over like mine. Common plant enzymes include: •Cellulase •Xylanase •Beta-glucosidase •Hemicellulase •Amidase Amino acids are a crucial, yet basic unit of protein, and they contain an amino group and a carboxylic group. They play an extensive role in the gene expression process, which includes an adjustment of protein functions that facilitate messenger RNA Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are the three main pillars of nutrient solutions and fertilizers, but there are countless other nutrients that your cannabis plants need to produce the best possible harvest. Amino acids are one of them. You may have noticed that amino acids get a lot of attention from bodybuilders and other athletes. That’s because they play a key role in the synthesis of protein, which, as you probably know, is super important for sports recovery and muscle growth. Amino acids are the building blocks of protein and the foundation of both plant and animal life. But what do amino acids do for cannabis? WHY IS PROTEIN IMPORTANT FOR CANNABIS? Just like proteins are important for the human body, they are equally important for the growth and development of plants. For example, proteins help plants: •Facilitate the growth of intracellular plant structures •Promote energy generation •Stimulate metabolic processes •Facilitate the absorption and transportation of nutrients So, where do plants get these vital proteins from? Well, unlike humans, plants can’t source proteins or amino acids from other organisms. Instead, they need to create their own amino acids, and then use these to build protein. That's why gardeners, much like athletes, go wild for amino acid supplements. Amino acids help plants by… • Increasing their production of chlorophyll, which ultimately improves their ability to photosynthesize • Serving as an easily absorbable form of nitrogen • Stimulating the synthesis of key vitamins • Improving their resistance to pests and diseases • Boosting the strength of their cells Amino acids also serve as the precursors to auxins, a group of plant hormones produced in the meristems—the apex of the stems where new leaves and stems are born. Auxins play a key role in the plant, activating genes for plant growth and development by triggering a multitude of vital plant functions. In other words, they determine what its size and architecture will look like. Auxins influence the development of branches, flowers, and roots, and even help to regulate the photoperiod response of the plant. Some amino acids, like cysteine, also work together with antioxidants like glutathione to help cannabis plants deal with oxidative stress, which can be caused by high-intensity lighting, some nutrient solutions, and high levels of CO₂. Unlike humans, plants can synthesize all the amino acids they need to survive and develop properly. Unfortunately, however, amino acid synthesis is a really high-energy process, and plants may struggle to produce enough amino acids when exposed to stress. WHAT FACTORS AFFECT A PLANT’S ABILITY TO SYNTHESISE AMINO ACIDS? Any kind of stress can affect a plant’s ability to produce enough amino acids. This includes: • Drought • Temperature extremes • Poor soil health • Pests • Diseases • Poor lighting • Lack of space • Poor root health WHAT DOES ALL OF THIS MEAN FOR WEED PLANTS? If you want to push your plants to their extreme in terms of floral growth and resin production, you should look into amino acid fertilizers. By making amino acids readily available to your plants, they’ll be able to use crucial energy to grow and bloom, rather than focusing on synthesizing amino acids themselves. Game of Inches, this is another Plants can absorb amino acids via their roots and leaves. They can also benefit from amino acids during both their vegetative and flowering phases. The fastest way for plants to absorb amino acids is via their leaves. The foliar application of amino acids is believed to improve the transportation of nutrients, increase transpiration, and boost photosynthesis. Hence, I recommend feeding your plants with foliar amino acid fertilizers. When doing so, however, carefully measure the amount of fertilizer you use, as—like with any nutrient—overfeeding can damage your plants. FOLIAR FEED AND SOIL SOAK • 1 crushed queen anne carrot • 20ml h2o2 • 1 crushed radish • 0.25 tsp NPK Enzymes • 0.25 tsp NPK Amino Acids • 50ml coconut water ( nature's own amniotic fluid packed with amino, enzymes ) + The sound of songbirds. Onto the predators 1250 -Green Lacewings Lacewings are extremely voracious predatory insects that feed on several pests. In adulthood, it feeds on pollen and nectar. In the larval stage, it feeds on aphids, thrips, and mealybugs at all stages of growth. It can also attack spider mites in moderate quantities. It is initially an aphid predator, but very effectively controls thrips and mealybugs infestations. It is so voracious that in the absence of prey, it will feed on its congeners. Lacewings are cannibalistic if there is no food available for them. It is therefore important to introduce them into an infestation situation, and not just preventively. •congener /kŏn′jə-nər/ •noun •A member of the same kind, class, or group. •An organism belonging to the same taxonomic genus as another organism. •A thing of the same kind as. or nearly allied to, another; specifically, in botany and zoology, a plant or an animal belonging to the same genus as another or to one nearly allied. Ideal temperature 20°C – 26°C Ideal humidity 60% – 70% Predatory stage life cycle 21 days Introduction rate 4 weeks Storage Refrigerator Use Immediately Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Lacewings are available on small paper cards that you can hang to plant stems. On the cards are dozens of eggs ready to hatch. There are also sterile eggs they can feed on once they have hatched before they are ready to disperse in the foliage. It is important to use them quickly upon receipt to avoid cannibalism. If you don't use them right away, you can store the cards in the refrigerator for 24 to 48 hours to prevent the eggs from hatching too quickly. Avoid storing them for longer than this or you risk losing eggs. 1250 eggs are divided into 7.5 cards, 2500 eggs on 15 cards, and 5000 on 30 cards. The application rate is one card per square meter of growing surface. Is this predator best used for preventive or curative treatments? Lacewings are used as a curative solution. Anything else I should know? Lacewing eggs hatch approximately 24-72 hours after the cards are exposed to room temperature. When they emerge, the lacewings are just 1.5-2 mm long. They are very small so they are difficult to see. Once hatched, they will stay on the cards for a few hours and then disperse in the foliage. You quickly lose sight of them if you have not witnessed the hatching. They then live in the foliage for about 3 weeks. Often, you will see them towards the end of their larval cycle. After feeding for 3 weeks, they will triple and even quadruple in size. At that point, they are easier to see. But they remain very discreet insects, it is not abnormal not to see them. Egg carcasses left behind on the cards do not disappear after the hatching has happened. It's normal to see eggs still on the cards. Visually it is very similar before and after hatching. Also, on the boxes, there are sterile ephestia eggs which are used to feed the lacewings once hatched. Not all lacewing eggs are viable either. Only a certain percentage of lacewing eggs will hatch. Once hatched, the eggs are white. You can observe this using a magnifying glass. With, 5000 Stratiolaelaps Scimitus It is used to prevent or control thrips pupae, fungus gnats larvae, and root mealybugs in the soil. It can also be used for red mites in bird farms or hen houses. The adult is about 1 mm long and is medium brown with a beige triangle on its back. Another fun fact about them is they can survive without prey. They can eat algae and plant debris. This is why they can reproduce and stay in plants for long periods. Ideal temperature 15°C – 23°C Predatory stage life cycle 18 days Introduction rate 2 weeks Storage Room temperature Use Within one week Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Sprinkle directly on the growing media. They can live in all types of substrates like potting soil, coconut fiber, rock wool, cedar mulch, etc. Stratiolaelaps establish easily so they are permanently fighting pests. One introduction is generally enough unless you have an infestation. In this case, introduce them at least twice at a 2-week interval for best results. If you grow your plants in a 100% mineral substrate, it will have to be released more often since there is less organic matter than in traditional soil. Do I need to take any specific precautions? Stratiolaelaps breed in the top layer of the soil. So it is important not to disturb them in the first days following their introduction. They don't like temperatures below 8 ° C. So be sure not to introduce them in a water-saturated or cold environment. Release them 24-48 hours after your last watering. They are very sensitive to chemical acaricides and diatomaceous earth. These methods are incompatible with their use.
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Amazing the difference a week can make on some of these plants. She beautiful and getting gassy already. Lowered the temp to 72. Juice is still pumping
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still growing fast as fuck. i was falling more and more in love with her as time passed. she was showing signs of hunger so i gave her, her first feed of veg nutes on december 5th 2021. I mixed 1/2 tsp to each gallon. I used a bucket with 3 gallons of dechlorinated tap water. Decmber 8th: same amount of veg to gallons of water with the same 1/2 tsp. phd to 6.4. December 10th gave her a feed honestly dont know how much. id say about 10-20 cups worth of dechlorinated tap water with 1/2 tsp of veg nutes to 3 gallons.
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Вот и подходит к концу наше увлекательное путешествие. С понедельника, 18/05 начал Pre-harvest Flush, всё идёт по плану. Я очень требовательно отношусь ко вкусу конечного продукта, поэтому стараюсь тщательно промывать растение (≈10 дней). Шишки стали упругими, при прикосновении похожи на резиновый мяч, жду не дождусь, когда можно будет попробовать😋. p.s. На последней картинке иллюстрация соответствия стрейна описанию из каталога - браво RQS!👍 Спасибо, что заглянули, и будьте здоровы! 🙏 Продолжение следует ...😶
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@BLAZED
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Week 1 (31-1 to 6-2) As for my waterings, i give RO water, with 0.50 grams of Calcium, and 0.2 ml of Atami Rootbastic a liter. Growdiaries wont let me put my nutrients in grams so i'm forced to choose mililiters. 31-1 Watering: 20 ml. They are stretching quite a bit. I turned on the fan on the lowest setting for some air movement. 1-2 Watering: 20 ml. 2-2 Watering: 20 ml. 3-2 Watering: 20 ml. Heights: Kush#1: 9cm Kush#2: 7.5cm 4-2 Watering: 40 ml. I attached a wire to the Kush#1 for extra stability as it was a bit fragile in combination with the fan. 5-2 Watering: 20 ml. 6-2 Watering: 60 ml. Heights: Kush#1: 10cm Kush#2: 8.5cm
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@rkomaaa
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I have 4 lady's Still no problem They are looking healthy but mby i did mistake with a pot size. I may have problems with space we'll see
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week intel: its time to harvest some of plants the ones that is mature enough. indica dominant plants will done first always so we should harvest them first because my base nutrients and one of boosters was salt based, i'll do flushing this week to get some relieve to plants in the last days stresses : flushing Drought stress via watering only one time with flushing this week feeding: day 1 : i flushed them with Advanced Nutrients Flawless finish and adjusted ph day 3 : no more feeding from now on day 5 : no more feeding from now on guide of the week : i harvest in 2 parts : first i harvest top of the branches and will let the lower buds to ripe another week then ill harvest the second wave. indica dominant plants will get done 1 or 2 weeks sooner than sativa dominant plants that will often takes more than 8 weeks so be aware to harvest them sooner. my dry and cure style is this: 3 days of hanging upside down to get water activity lower to around 0.6 in 50% humidity and 26 C temp (i know its a little high but we are in a hot summer right now and i cant get it lower even with air conditioner) and then after 3 days of drying i remove leaves and stalks, trim buds and move them to jar for the rest of their life :D . and in the first 4 days of curing i open the jar door and let hem get some fresh air in the jar for about 5 minutes and close the jar door again, after 4 days of curing like that buds are smokable but they will get better as they getting cured about 1 month. im happy as hell with this harvest :D.
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This cherry bomb is crushing it on all fronts. The smell is epic citrus berry. I’ve got her on a drip line now, with two 2gal/hr emitters running for 5 mins a couple of times a day. Can’t wait to watch the buds really fill in now.
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So we're in week 3 veg , they've mostly outgrown their mutated leaves now and looking strong.
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@Sejnik
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Rozdíly mezi Florganics a Biobizz jsou nyní dost znát. Biobizz má 2x větší květy (ne dost velké na to v jakém jsou týdnu) a zelenější barvy. Zalévám každé 3-4 dny 10 litry vody s vypsanými živinami. Florganics má malé květy které se moc nevyvíjí, má světle zelené listy které se začínají zbarvovat do fialové. Přidal jsem jim canna PK 13/14 protože jim očividně chybí jídlo.
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HOLY GOD ..... WHAT MUSIC! BOYS ! MY FRIENDS ARE STRETCHING AND GAINING WEIGHT !!! VAMOS! LET'S GO TO GET THE PRIZES IN THE RANKING AND BREAK THE PODIUM! HAPPY AND ABUNDANT HARVESTS FOR EVERYONE
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Other than spreading folage out to new found space (had two male seedlings), I haven't maintenanced much. I want to get the pH down slow. I'm doing a top up and going to be careful for no big jumps. I'm gonna take the bins my tank sits on out to give me more grow room for next crop, and to keep reservoir temp down. Check ya later dudes:)))) Oh..I agree that the value of buds far exceeds the amount of vegetables I could ever grow but I'm an outdoors man- it's majority of what I smoke. im doing this strictly as hobby and for more variety.
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Another week in the books, one maybe 2 more to go, if the weather holds and humidity doesn't go crazy. Since grow diaries doesn't support more than 32 weeks, it's a bit of a pain to track the rest of this grow. Still I will post updates.
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Since that day I treated her soooo bad: just sometimes water, nearly no fertilizer, placed her inside a tent, in a glass house and sometimes even outside for days... I totally forgot when she started to bloom or how long she was even growing.
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The ladies are off! This marks week one of veg and the ladies are doing great and provably happy to get the hell out of the germination box. Stared them on basic nutrients and will be watering them in until we move them into 7 gal containers. Other than that that we wait until we can top them and train them. Ready for my dreams to be blue again.
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@A1420
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Smell is starting to get stronger but still nothing to worry about. Lemon type smell with a chemical background like nail varnish Really starting to pack on weight fast now and the trichomes are really starting to cluster up in places. She's just over half way now at 5 weeks flowering so she should really be White by harvest.