I am very happy with the Chiquita Bananas in the end. Clones were total seed factories but I think we may have a go at making some hash with those as the foot long buggers are caked in crystal.. 62g and 63g . Plant 1 is just a monster for me 365g wet. Long dense buds thick dank smell of tropical sweets. Not as much seed as I thought there would be so glad I was convinced to push her a bit more. Plant 2 is smaller but has taken a pure turn in the last week.i don't think she was stressed at Al. I did switch to just water for last 10 days but apart from that I dunno. I don't think she has any thing with pure in her genetics but either way she looks beautiful. 169g wet from her. Everything is drying for the next 10 days when I shall report back. Happy grows.🌿🌱👊 Stay safe.😷

2025-07-09 Holy moly, the Gaia F1 is as wide ( horizontal) as high( vertical) she is she looks like Dome i took away some leaves, because of her bushy structure. lovely flowers are to see, and starting to get bigger. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Gaia F1 has taken its place in the pantheon of F1 hybrid cannabis genetics. Our breeders created these seeds by starting out with parent genetics New Breed Auto, Black Domina, and Sin Tra Bajo. From here, they conducted an extensive breeding project that culminated in crossing three highly pure inbred lines. The result? A potent and fast-growing autoflower F1 hybrid that boasts incredible uniformity and impressive pest and disease resistance. Named after the Greek goddess of Earth, Gaia F1 features a chemical profile that will have you feeling at one with the world around you. After a few hits, you’ll feel the urge to head out and bathe in nature. During your contemplative stroll, you won’t see soil, but a living matrix of millions of microbes; not mere trees, but living and breathing organisms standing tall and proud. Gain a newfound appreciation for the natural world with every inhalation. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Growing Environment Setup & Specifications Lighting System Model: Sanlight EVO 5-150 Quantity: Up to 5 units Power Output: 320W per unit Maximum Total Output: 1600W Environmental Control Management Unit: Growcontrol Growbase Pro Humidity Management: Dedicated Humidifier Dedicated Dehumidifier Temperature Control: Primary: System-controlled Secondary: Additional Radiator for supplemental heating Air Management Air Circulation: 2x Stand Fans Air Extraction: Exhaust Fan with Filter System Irrigation System Primary: Autopot XXL Pot System Water Storage: Flexi Tank Root Zone Aeration: Airdomes Dedicated Air Pump Growing Medium Type: TERRA PRETA MJ-Mix Nutrients System: BIOTABS Method: "Just Add Water" Strategy Type: Organic-based feeding

I started germination of 2 Jack F1 beans on 29/12/2020. I pre moistened my rockwool cubes with ph balanced water to 6.4. Made sure the plugs were just damp and not soaked. Using a small wooden dowel I increased the size of the plugs pre made holes. Than I sowed my beans into the holes. Ripped off a small piece of rockwool and mulched it up. Lightly filled the holes in with the mulched rockwool. Than stuck the plugs into a misted humidity dome, to complete germination. Shouldn't take anymore than 4-5 days to see some sprouts. Once I see some cotlydon leaves bursting to the surface. I will get the plugs planted into some 1 gallon pots. Plus get these ladies situated into their new home. Cant wait! Just some background information on my last run with the Jack f1. It was relatively strong during veg. But was middle of the pack in size after the 6 weeks of vegetative growth. After the flower stretch she became the largest quick! With a enormous stretch rate of 300%... Yes she tripled in size. Forcing me too super crop her which she didnt like at all. Setting her back and definitely hurting her all around yeild. Despite the staggering, unexpected stretch amount. Leading to the stress inducing supercropping. She still pulled off immaculate bud structre, density, and trichome production. She just took much longer than she should have... and didnt pack on the whopper size buds I'd expect out of these genetics. Definitely learned alot out of my first go. So I'm amped for the second run with this variety. This time around I'm going to anticipate the stretch and cut veg time shorter. To roughly 4 weeks or 1 ft in height. Also utilize a bit of very light lst to their side branching to open them up a little bit. Without stressing them out... well hopefully.

Quite happy with how most of it turned out, even canopy and all, despite the issues. In this week I decided to flush the center plant (A) and switched nutes to Canna, but it was too late already and I was planning to harvest in 2 weeks regardless.

Another good week of growth. Yesterday I did some small pruning on lower growth and today I cut two fan leaves which were covering lower tops. I will switch to 12/12 light cycle tomorrow. Looking forward to the stretch. Julie is already giving off a great aroma when you touch her. May also buy a net to help with the canopy.

Aug 2: Tropicana Cookies FF is three weeks younger than my two biggest plants (Sunday Punch EV and Mimosa Shot) and two weeks younger than Lemon Cream Kush. This is a very strong plant and is progressing very well. This wagon with LCK started force flowering a week later than the other wagon and will go another week longer. TC is now the tallest of the four plants despite being the youngest. Aug 5: now done force flowering after 2.5 weeks. Plants in this wagon are getting too big to easily get into garage. Continuing to use far red light as a bloom booster at dusk. Back to 15.5 h of daylight in the backyard now.

D9 - 9.21 - Just growing growing growing. All of them have nice velvety roots lining the bottom of the cups 💪😬 D10 - 9.22 - Super impressed by the growth and color of these ladies D13 - 9.25 - Transplanted into my 5 Gallon fabric pots with 1/3 Nature's Living Soil Super soil mix on bottom and fox farms on top ------------ Right now these are under 250w (True watts) of LED. One of the lights is a "600w" Phlizon full spectrum, the other is a "600w" YGrow for a mixture of 2-peak blurple and 3500k, respectively D14 - 9.26 - Loving their new pots and tent space! 👽👍

i like the structure of this plant, its a beautiful and stable genetics, really great to try, she's already getting more tricomes and starting to smell more, lets see how it goes the next weeks but i think that at the moment its looking good 😊

What a beauty ! Imso glad I have 2 rooted clones to keep her genetic alive =) possibly will cross her with a landrace Hindu Kush strain. Day 78- NFTG flower feed/Mammoth P/ Recharge @6.5ph Day 79-80 No Water Day 81- Mammoth P/Recharge/ Cal-Mag/ Bloom Khaos feed @ 6.8 Day 82-84 No water

Tag 55: Ich gebe kein Dünger mehr in das Gießwasser. Bald wird geerntet 😃

Start of week 9 and everything is filling in nicely, 11 more days and it’s harvest time. Not much to report except the smell, fruity, berries, sweet and sour. except pheno 6 the sativa dominate that one smells like grape fruit / hazy.

Fertilizers and water alteration still looks as a good solution. It seems to me now that applying LST was a mistake because there is really not enough space in the tent and Bruce Banner has not even started flowering.

😵😵😵

This week the plant is focusing on building and developing buds, they are stacking up nicely on the stems with nice internodal stacking. I believe we have stopped vertical growth now, and so the focus on bud building has increased. Here is what I watered this week. 14.7.25: I watered 2ltrs of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.4 containing the following nutrients; 💜 2ml Ecothrive Trace 💜 1/4 TSP Ecothrive Biosys PH: 6.4 PPM: 376 15.7.25: I watered with 2ltrs of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.4, containing the following nutrients; 💜 2ml Ecothrive Trace 💜 1/4 TSP Ecothrive Biosys PH: 6.4 PPM: 365 16.7.25: I watered with 2ltrs of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.7, containing the following nutrients; 💜 3ml Ecothrive Trace 💜 1/4 TSP Ecothrive Biosys PH: 6.7 PPM: 360 18.7.25: I top dressed with the following organic dry amendments; As a base for the dry amendments I used: 🧡 Worm Castings - 1 Cup 🧡 Coco - 1 Cup 🧡 Perlite - 1/2 Cup Dry Amendments: 💚 Ecothrive Life Cycle 1TBS 💚 Ecothrive Bloom 1 TBS 💚 Ecothrive Charge 1TBS 💚 Diatomaceous Earth 1TBS I watered this in with 2ltrs of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.7 with 2ml Ecothrive Trace. PH: 6.7 PPM: 359. 29.7.25: I watered with 2ltrs of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.5 with: 💜 1ml Trace. PH: 6.5 PPM: 340. Thanks for stopping by this week and hanging out 💚 ✌️ 🍃 😊 🌱 🙌 💚

Tbd

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

Fifth week of vegetation, In the recovery phase after having stressed. I continue with the calmag and start fertilization for the 2 greens after the soil has dried. For the 2 Gorilla Glue, one has recovered great but the other I see this recovery very long, I know that I will take it off so as not to waste time, what do you recommend?

I have to leave the plants ti My grigri rend cause i’ve to go. I ll be back in july. Let’s see