1st week of 12/12 light going beautifully. They are doing really well. Although I still experienced root issues. I think this spot is cursed :P

Dopo una bella pulizia della base della pianta adesso sto innafiando anche usando la linea fert di advanced nutrient ph perfect, sembra fare il suo effetto, non la uso tutti i giorni, ancora solo 2 volte in 1 settimana, questa settimana farò 3 volte, e vediamo come risponde la pianta. PS: uso la ½ della dosi scritte da manuale.

March 3 Start of week 6 pistils turn brown already buds need to get fat now march 7 buds start to swell now

So at the end of week 2 we let them dry all the way out and flushed with a 1.0 EC solution. This week we begin feeding heavy. There are tops freakin everywhere! Out of the 8 plants there is only one that didn’t stretch about 15 inches. This is the first time running Ethos Genetics and I’m glad I did. 6 weeks left.

Nice week after

Day 43 let's start week 7! the plants grow and continue to stretch. unfortunately two weeks ago my ph meter broke. last week I started giving 1ml / l of green sensation and the plants seem to have lightened a lot. these days i should have the ph meter back so i can check. all in all they seem to grow well apart from this "yellowing". Day 44 the pH pen arrived and I discovered the cause of the yellowing. the ph was about 5 😭😭😭 now I let it dry well and brought the ph back to 6.7 and given 0.5 l and I wait for it to dry again keep following me to see my progress. it is my first growth and I make many mistakes, leave a like and give me an opinion or advice to improve. good luck and happy day!🌱💚

The Purple Lemonade from fast buds is looking amazing with her purple trichrome covered buds she has been thriving under the medic grow fold 6 an loving the cronk nutrients witch is no surprise because cronk nutrients has always worked amazing for my autoflower grows can't wait for this one to be done as it smells like sweet candy

Been slack with the updates as we are busy buidling a new greenhouse. will make sure I take nice individual photos for harvest though.

17/04: - Started LST. - My plan is to wait until the plant outgrows the top tie and start tying the main cola around the pot, counter clockwise. 19/04: - Adjusted LST and tucked some leaves. I'm trying to give the new growth as much exposure to light as possible. 20/04: - 420 is here and the plant is looking fantastic. I'm leaving the LST ties as they are for now. 21/04: - Tensed the main tie a bit more and I might settle for this instead of going with the round shape I had in mind. - I'm tying some leaves so they won't block the new growth. Learned this reading other people's Q&As - Keeping leaves to a safe distance from the soil so they are not damaged by fertilizers.

01/01/2022 Potting up this weekend I hope 🙏🏻 then on last week of veg feed with coast of Maine Stonington plant food 5-2-4? I think l gotta check that.

*****Week 9 - September 14 to 20, 2020 - Days 57 to 63 from germination****** They were feeding well this week and took the higher more consistent amount of nutes well this week. Had to make a decision at the end of the week and I took out the small full spectrum light to put in the photo tent. They are in flower now and I held off as long as I can. These girls are closer to the end and I will keep the intensity focussed on LAK3 and GSC and let the other two live in the shadows and ripen😎 Not my first choice but everything is a trade off in life unfortunately☹️ Not an issue outdoor growers deal with👍 Little more detail: Sept 14/20 - Day 57 - Massive @ 3ml, Terpinator @ 2ml, Vitathrive & Liquid Weight & Rezin & Dual Fuel @ 1.5ml - 1,000ppm and 5.8pH - Feed for only LAK1......other girls area going to dry out another night. Sept 15/20 - Day 58 - Overdrive & Rezin @ 2ml, Liquid Weight & Vitathrive @ 1.5ml, Dual Fuel @ 1ml - 650ppm and 5.6pH - 2L given to each girl Sept 17/20 - Day 60 - Overdrive & Rezin @ 1.5ml - 200ppm and 5.3pH - 2L each given to the girls. - Just a bit to help with swelling. Sept 18/20 - Day 61 - Massive @ 3ml, Terpinator @ 2ml, Vitathrive & Liquid Weight & Rezin & Dual Fuel @ 1.5ml - 1165ppm and 5.2pH - LAK1 - 4L, LAK2 - 2.5L, LAK3 - 3L Sept 20/20 - Day 63 - Terpinator @ 3ml, Overdrive @ 2ml, Sensyzime & Vitathrive & Liquid Weight & Rezin & Dual Fuel @ 1.5ml - 1045ppm and 5.3pH Wrapping up week 9 and heading into week 10........the days ahead are going to be the guessing ones......is she done yet???? To be honest I have not even looked close at trichome yet🧐 I fully expect to see day 74 with LAK1.......not sure LAK2 will make it that long???? LAK3 will still be a couple of weeks yet but she is roughly a week younger. Cheers Growmies and have a great week ahead🙏😃😃😃

Week 3 - nice growth in each plant, the blueberry is a lot hungrier, I may need to introduce a mid-week feeding of sensizym for her. The 2 OG kush have very tight node space and bud sights. A little bit of defoliation of fans leaves.

Hi everyone :-) This week the ladies stretched out again while the flower production started. They all look very healthy and beautiful 😍. I am very excited to see what genetics does this week, as I only know it on Earth so far :-). I wish you all a nice weekend and let it grow 👍😎

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

Sie strecken sich langsam ...

Comenzamos la semana con los siguientes datos: Jueves 18 de septiembre, 2025 15:59 🌡️ 28*C☀️ 💧68% 💨 11-23 km/h 131*↖️SE

Doing amazingly! Actually started flush literally today! So stay tuned to see how chunky these flowers are going to get! They smell delicious! Candy shop in my tent with all these flavours!

I Messed Up A DAY Here. So one of the days is dated wrong. I tried to correct it the best that I could. 7/24 I decided to label this week as flower. It's more like preflower though. GMOs are stretching like crazy. Due to the rain we weren't supposed to get some of my plants are a little over watered. That's why I love the fabric pots. With the winds we get the bags dry out fast. The GMO's would've needed water anyway if we didn't get this storm. Event Horizon seems to be the furthest in flower amd the most over watered. WE'LL get a LITTLE more rain today and tomorrow but then hopfully my bags will dry out. They are heavy as hell right now. Had we not got rain for what seems like forever. Several plants would've needed to be watered if we didn't get this rain. Still the plants are currently overwatered. All the pics and video so far are from this morning after the horrible pounding rain of yesterday. Like I said before, I need to; defoliate for better air flow, add secondary supports or a vertical trellis, considering using a preventative pest application (e.g. BT), LST and spread branches apart and start using nutes. 7/25 Wasn't supposed to rain today. Like .001. It poured this morning and is still raining VERY LIGHTLY at 2:30. We got an inch yesterday. The total for these 3 days was suppised to be under half an inch. Anyway I went over around two and everything looks great! Things are clearly overwatered and heavy but the plants look happy! Most have their leaves out and everything! I love growing in bags because they dry out so quickly! I don't mind watering more. I defoliated one event horizon and the few yellow leaves I coukd see on other plants after shaking them off. The seedling in the 50 is far behind the others in flower and just showed its sex. I'm fairly certain that one is red runtz. Whatever it is is going to flower much later than the rest. It's going to be good if I have couple early finishers. I did a video but I'll have to upload tomorrow. I have a lot of work to do And not just in the garden so I'm hoping I can balance things out and get this stuff done. Caught three TINY inch worms. I'm wondering if me manually hunting has cut the adult population down and I'm just getting fresh born ones? If that's the case I wouldn't need to spray. 7/26 Plants looked pretty great today. I think me manually removing pillars has made a big difference. It's windy out too so it won't take long for those bags to dry out. Which is good because what wad supposed to be a half inch of rain turned into 3 straight days of rain. I'll be back over to work on the garden today and I'll update then. 7/27 Plants are looking pretty good. Good weather ahead and the bags are starting to lose weight. Found a pillar wrapped in a dead interior leaf all wrapped up. Found a couple more early this morning amd killed them. I did some slight leafing on some plants. I don't like doing that outdoors but since these are monster cropped they have far to many leaves. Airflow is improved. I'm not seeing any nutrient deficiencies yet. Plants are a vibrant healthy dark green. Soon I'll add a base nute like big bloom or ancient amber (I think that's the one, it's applicable to big bloom). I cam see some plants trying to start flowering and I've got one (in the 50) that has just shown sex. Hopfully this will give me some time between harvests. I'll update as I go along. DAD CALLED IN THE AFTERNOON AND SAID HE THOUGHT A PLANT MIGHT BE STARTING TO DROOP. IT WAS MY GMO CANARY THAT GETS HIT ON ALMOST THREE FULL SIDES BY WIND (ONLY ONE PLANT). I CHECKED THE WEIGHT AND IT WAS LIGHT. IT WAS DROOPING TOO. I WATERED THAT ONE PLANT WITH A GALLON AND WATCHED IT PERK BACK UP. I CHECKED THE WEIGHT ON THE OTHER PLANTS AND LIKE I THOUGHT THEY WERE STILL HEAVY. I PUT MY FINGER IN THE SOIL AND IT CAME AWWY COVERED IN DIRT. MY SEEDLING IN THE 10 WAS KINDA LIGHT SO I GAVE THAT HALF A GALLON. I USED THE OTHER HALF AS "A CUP OF KINDNESS" ON THE PLANTS THAT SEEMED LIGHTEST TO CARRY THEM OVER. I PROBABLY SHOULDVE WAITED BUT I DOUBT IT MATTERS. ILL CHECK IN THE MORNING. I ASSUME ILL HAVE TO WATER THEN OR AT NIGHT. ILL GO BY THE WEIGHT. THE CANARY WILL NEED TO BE ON A SEPERATE SCHEDULE. THATS FOR SURE. Went back over at 6:30 and plants looked better than they have in a long time bags still have some weight. With the sunny weather we are going to have these plants will keep exploding in growth. Found one pillar but I wasn't there long. Seriously considering a spray of BT in the near future. EDIT: UNFORTUNATELY MY SPIDEY SENSE STARTING TINGLING AROUND NOON. MY ANXIETY WONT LET ME IGNORE IT (IM NOW EMBRACING IT) AND I HAD TO CUT OFF A CONVERSATION WITH MY WIFE TO GO TO THE GARDEN. I IMMEDIATELY SAW THAT ONE OF MY GMOS WAS STARTING TO DROOP. NOT LIKE BEFORE BUT IF I HAD BRUSHED IT OFF AND LEFT IT FOR FOUR MORE HOURS IN THE 90° SUN IT WOULD'VE BEEN. I GAVE THE GMO'S (BESIDES THE ONE I GOT YESTERDAY EACH A GALLON. I DIDNT WANT TO WATER DURING THE DAY BUT THIS WAS MY BEST OPTION. I GAVE THE TOASTED TOFFY A GALLON AND THE 2 EVENT HORIZONS EACH GOT HALF A GALLON, AS WELL AS THE SHERB PIE WHICH GOT HALF A GALLON. I DECIDED TO DO THIS BECAUSE SOME PLANTS USE MORE WATER THAN OTHERS. BEFORE ACTUALLY GOING OVER I CONSULTED MY PREVIOS DIARIES. I HAD THIS SANE PROBLEM LAST YEAR ON THE SAME WEEK OF THE MONTH! THATS WHAT MADE ME TRUST MY INTUITION FULLY. I LEARNED FROM THE MISTAKE OF LAST YEAR. THINGS ARE GOING GOOD. IM STARTING NUTES SOON AND I NEED TO SPEAY FOR BT BUT DONT KNOW IF IT WILL BE TONIGHT. 7/29 Apparently my intuition worked out well. Plants looked great this morning. I may feed today. I defoliated a bit and watered the 10g with a half gallon and gave another half gallon to the gmo on the end that dries out fastest and that I didn't water yesterday. I think I've got the watering down. Now I need to start nutes and spray bt. Need to wait for the rain first though. Suppised to get minor showers the next couple days. I'm gonna try to get the trellis up too. WENT BACK A LITTPE AFTER FOUR. HUMiDITY WAS 100% AND IT WAS RAINING VERY LIGHTLY. I MEAN AS LITTLE AS IT CAN POSSIBLY RAIN. ALMOST LIKE WHAT IT FEELS LIKE WITH THOSE MISTING FANS IF YOU STAND BACK A WAYS. I DIDN'T WATER. PLANTS WERE LOOKING GREAT! I DID SOME DEFOLIATION AND CAN TELL I NEED TO START NUTES. I CAN SEE SOME SLIGHT DEFICIENCIES IN BIG OLDER LEAVES. SOME SMALL INTERIOR LEAVES YELLOWED. NOT MANY. GRANTED THEY ARE STARTING TO FLOWER. I'LL PLAN ON FEEDING TOMORROW. THE NEXT FEW DAYS IS SUPPISED TO BE SHOWERS. I DOUBT IT WILL GIVE MY BIG GIRLS ALL THEY NEED BUT IT WILL BE A GOOD START. I DID A VIDEO BUT ITS RATHER LONG SO I CANT UPLOAD IT HERE. ITS COOL WATCHING HOW DIFFERENT THE DIFFERENT STRAINS GROW. STILL HAVE A BUNCH OF SHIT TO DO. IT WILL GET DONE THIS WEEK. 7/30 I held off watering today due to a supposed storm and rain we were supposed to be getting. I had early doctors appointments. I got back around 11 and the bags seemed light. After consulting last years diary I saw that I am underwatering. The root system weighs a lot! We haven't got the hundredths of an inch of rain but we got some sun. It's over cast now. I was there working for a few hours. I watered most a gallon. All the gmo's got a gallon. I gave the two event horizons about two thirds a gallon. About the same with the toasted toffy and the sherb pie. About 3/4 of a gallon as they seemed to have a little weight left. Looking at last years diary there were plants I was giving two gallons at a time in a 20 gal bag so I've been u Der watering a bit. I've caught it now and adjusted. I'm not losing leaves at the pace I have in the past. Even though some are in flower. I think I'm getting better. I fed for the first time today. Each plant got 1.75 pints. Except the 10gallon which got half the powerade bottle and the 5gal which got a qtr. By the time I left the plants were standing up nice and tall and looking amazing. Now I just need to apply bt and secondary supports. 7/31 Another eight day week. I'll have to do six days next week. Everything looked amazing this morning. I'm seeing less pest damage. Watering and feeding was the right move. Now I just have a little rearranging to do, add supports and spray if I decide to.