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@Ti_BR
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This is the day 21 of flowering. I Will defoliate the plants today. This is my First diary, so i dont have pics of veg stage. The OGs and Gorillas ghosts are Very different. The OGs Veg feed was 0.8 EC on first weeks, then 1.0. Now on flowering they feed 1.1. Very low. The gorillas liked 1.3 EC on Veg and now they are feeding 2.0/2.2. I aways mensure de entrance feed and the runoff of each one. I expent almost 90 days on Veg becouse the GG delay a little at the beginning. My mistakes, a little overwatering and low feed. I underfeed the plants on First week of flowering to finish the nitrogen on substrate, so the bigest GG show calcium Def signs (you can see on imagens). But now is solved, they are health green again. Soon i Will post New pics.
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Lovely weeks weather. Nice growth and lots of bud points. hit 13 hours lights today also which is nice
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@AK1210
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The bud sites are just covered in tricomes, I had my magnifying glass out to check the colour and most are milky but not as much as I thought by going by the pistol coloring, as they are mostly brown. There is a more of a spicy dank smell to her now and the fan leaves have mostly died or are close to dying. Hopefully I can start the flush process soon but will not do this till I'm happy with the tricome colouring.
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Recta final!! 25/12 Solo queda el secado. Ha sido un bonito regalo de Navidad. 2kg húmedos y ahora a secar. Las tengo secando en el mismo armario. Echan un fuerte olor a mango. La verdad que ha sido muy guay sacar adelante este proyecto pero ha requerido mucho esfuerzo y también estudiar mucho, para ser la primera vez muy bien. Deseando mucho mucho probarla. Espero que nos guste mucho. Feliz Navidad para todos!!! Seguimos.. 6 días colgadas y 4 en una malla de secado.. 5/1/25 en botes de curado, les he puesto un termohigrometro en los botes y está a 60 de humedad así qir no voy a hacer nada más que abrir y cerrar hasta que estén listas.. ya os
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All good :) very frosty and smells so good. She‘s so happy. At day 35 end of week 4 approaching week 5, i flush her to remove salt buildups since i didn’t had runoff the entire grow ever. She has crazy 2.6EC run off the ph is on the spot though. So lets see how will she react after heavy flush with runoff 1.6EC by week 5. i am now lowering my nuts half of the manufacturers recommendation.
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Cada día crecen más esta semana las pasamos a floración y mostraron un buen desarrollo sin estrés ni deficiencias alguna, detectamos en la candy crush que se volvió hermafrodita,posteriormente la retiramos del cuarto de cultivo........
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week 11 here with the update video
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Heute Samstag, der erste Tag von Woche zwei.. gerade gute Gelegenheit zum toppe und Runter binden LST , da ich eine fette scrog Wachstum will für dieses mal... Mal schauen wie moby dick das vertragt..
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Ok, so what does CRI have to do with grow lighting? To consider this we need to first review what color rendering index or CRI is. Put simply it’s a performance metric or outcome that considers the ability of a light source to mimic sunlight, 100 cri is sunlight at midday, so approximately 5000 kelvins on a clear sunny day. So, if we know that perfect light that is 100cri is perfect for replicating true color for say photographic applications where subjects perfectly lit will reveal perfect color, then why as a metric is it important for use in grow lights? The fundamentals of light that mimics sunlight are referred to in the grow light community as wide or broad-spectrum light. That is to say, all the wavelengths of sunlight at 100 CRI would be perfectly represented and would therefore provide a light that is sunlight, artificially produced. Ok so is CRI the nirvana of plant performance? Not quite. Let’s consider missing ingredients. OK so measurement devices used for CRI are typically based around what is referred to as PAR. PAR stands for Photosynthetically Active Radiation. and it refers to the portion of the light spectrum (wavelengths) that plants use for photosynthesis. Specifically, it covers wavelengths between 400 and 700 nanometers (nm), which is the range most beneficial for plant growth. While PAR (Photosynthetically Active Radiation) focuses on the 400–700 nanometer (nm) range of the light spectrum, it does however not cover all wavelengths that might influence plant growth. Here’s what PAR leaves out when considering a full-spectrum light source for grow lighting: UV-A (315–400 nm), UV-B (280–315 nm), and UV-C (280 nm). Benefits to Plants: UV-A and UV-B can stimulate secondary metabolite production (e.g., flavonoids, anthocyanins, and terpenes), enhancing plant color, flavor, and pest resistance. Far-Red Light –Light in the 700–800 nm range. Benefits to Plants: Stimulates the shade-avoidance response, helping plants grow taller or stretch toward light. Enhances flowering and fruiting when combined with red light in the Emerson Effect (synergy between red and far-red light to increase photosynthetic efficiency). Limitations: Too much far-red can lead to elongated, weak plants with reduced yield. It’s a balancing act UV-B may act as a stressor to trigger protective responses in plants, leading to increased resilience. Limitations: Excess UV can damage plant tissues and reduce growth if not carefully managed. Infrared (IR) Radiation – Beyond 800 nm What It Is: Heat-emitting wavelengths beyond visible light. Benefits to Plants: Infrared contributes to overall warmth, which can aid plant development in cool environments. Limitations: Excessive infrared can overheat plants, leading to water stress or damage. Green Light – Often Underrepresented in PAR Measurements What It Is: 500–600 nm, technically part of PAR but often undervalued. Role in Full Spectrum: Penetrates deeper into the plant canopy than red or blue light. Vital for photosynthesis in lower leaves and shaded areas. Misconception: Traditional PAR models underestimate green light’s contribution to photosynthesis. Beyond PAR: Signals and Stress Responses Non-Photosynthetic Effects: Wavelengths outside PAR can affect: Circadian rhythms in plants. Photomorphogenesis (plant shape and structure development). Hormonal responses and stress adaptation. Importance in Full-Spectrum Grow Lighting: A full-spectrum light source includes UV, visible light (400–700 nm, encompassing PAR), and far-red/infrared light. This comprehensive coverage ensures: Enhanced photosynthesis (beyond traditional PAR efficiency). Improved plant quality (color, taste, aroma). Support for natural plant growth cycles and stress responses. To optimize plant health, growth, and productivity, it’s essential to balance PAR with these additional wavelengths based on the specific needs of your plants and growth stage. As indoor gardening gains momentum, the quest for lighting solutions that emulate natural sunlight intensifies. High Color Rendering Index (CRI) LEDs emerge as a forefront solution, boasting a CRI of 90 or above, making them capable of producing light remarkably similar to natural sunlight. Ultra-high CRI LEDs, with ratings of 95 to 98, push this similarity even further, offering an unparalleled approximation of sunlight’s full spectrum. Advantages and Challenges of High CRI LEDs Benefits of High CRI LEDs Natural Light Simulation: These LEDs excel in replicating the broad spectrum of sunlight, crucial for photosynthesis and overall plant health. Energy Efficiency: High CRI LEDs outperform traditional lighting in lumens per watt, offering substantial electricity savings. Durability: With a lifespan extending years beyond their fluorescent counterparts, these LEDs represent a long-term investment in indoor gardening. Considerations for High CRI LEDs Initial Cost: The upfront cost of Higher CRI LEDs can make you total system cost higher however the price gap is reducing Heat Generation: Although they produce less heat than traditional lights, managing heat emission is still necessary for sensitive plants. Light Spectrum: While they mimic sunlight, High CRI LEDs might not offer the exact wavelength needed for optimal plant growth, potentially necessitating supplemental lighting or nutrients. Efficacy of High CRI LEDs in Plant Growth The effectiveness of High CRI LEDs varies with plant species, growth stages, and required light intensity. Studies, such as those conducted by the University of Florida and the University of Arkansas, demonstrate that High CRI LEDs can surpass traditional lighting in growing lettuce, basil, and strawberries, improving both yield and quality. Natural Sunlight Versus High CRI LEDs Though High CRI LEDs adeptly imitate sunlight, they cannot entirely replicate its spectrum and intensity. Natural sunlight provides a more comprehensive range of wavelengths, contributing to vigorous plant growth. Nonetheless, High CRI LEDs offer a viable alternative when sunlight is unavailable, presenting a more consistent light source across seasons. Nutrient Dynamics Under High CRI Lighting The broad spectrum of High CRI LEDs influences plant nutrient requirements. For instance, a University of Helsinki study revealed tomato plants under High CRI lighting demanded more calcium, attributing to improved fruit quality. This indicates a shift in nutrient management strategies when transitioning from traditional to High CRI LED lighting. Top Ten Reasons for Opting for High CRI LED Lighting Enhanced Plant Growth: Closely mimics sunlight’s spectrum, vital for various growth stages. Improved Visual Inspection: Easier monitoring of plant health and early detection of issues. Increased Yield: Potential for higher production due to efficient photosynthesis. Better Pollination Management: More natural lighting conditions could improve pollinator efficiency. Superior Quality: Enhanced color, taste, and nutritional content of produce. Energy Efficiency: Significant savings on electricity costs. Extended Lifespan: Reduces the frequency of light replacement. Lower Heat Emission: Minimizes risk to heat-sensitive plants. Versatility: Suitable for a wide range of horticultural activities. Environmental Benefits: Lower carbon footprint and reduced electronic waste. In Summary, we can ask what HI CRI brings to the conversation. Many standard grow lights use lower base CRI for example 70, 80, and 90 cri. This is a common strategy to increase efficiency. The use of newer phosphors like KSF negates the differences of efficacy in higher CRI LED’s. It’s clear that ignoring CRI as part of your lighting recipe reduces your spectrum breadth irrespective of wavelengths outside the par range, meaning use of all wavelengths in a complete lighting system that includes broad spectrum white can’t help but improve your total plant performance.
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Everything seems to be going well a little too close together but nothing major need to do a small amount of defoliation this next week but nothing major as I don't want to hurt the growth. any suggestions always welcome. Thanks for viewing guys 🙂 MAKE SURE YOU CHEAK THE VIDEO AND PICTURES WITHOUT LIGHTS ON. thanks
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Welcome our dear Friends, in this grow cycle we will try an awesome strain under an awesome light, I'm talking about Girl Scout Coockies and the 💡💡TS 600 by MarsHydro.💡💡 TS600 is an awesome lap for all growers, from the beginner to the expert because it has a balanced light spectrum (good for veg and flowering) and a low wattage. It is cheap to buy and to use, your bill will never be too high!! This lamp is also really efficient and it never get hot, a perfect replace and upgrade if you have an HPS!! (P.S.: They also have awesome stickers, you must stick them in your grow box for perfect results🤪🤪🤪) Here some details: Reduced Energy Usage LED Grow Light: Consuming 100w as well as installed with 225 pcs chips, TS600 is able to replace a 150w HPS light while saving 30% electric power. High Efficiency LED Grow Light: With overall light output PPF 190umol/S and good PPE 2.0 umol/j, it's 50% more photon effective so can promise a 30% more return comparing to the old HPS/MH lights. Patent Reflective Hood Design: The reflector on TSW2000 has actually been patented, which can effectively gather the light dispersed in all directions to improve its light intensity and aid plants acquire more light absorption. Full Spectrum Plant-Preferred Spectra: By the special combination of ranges that emits most light in the 400-700nm waveband, extremely conducive to plant photosynthesis. Appropriate IR(730-740nm) is additionally included in the range to help form larger buds. Trustworthy Qualifications And Warranty: CE, ETL, RoHS, UKCA security certifications approved, 50,000 hours long lifespan, 5-year service warranty, and local after-sales solution facilities. I WANT TO TELL THAT MARSHYDRO SERVICE IS INCREDIBLY AWESOME, I ALLWAYS RECEIVED FAST AND PRECISE ANSWERS! EXCELLENT LAMP, PERFECT CUSTOMER SERVICES AND FAST DELIVERY. THANK YOU GUYS, THANK YOU DEAR ELEEN! 💸💸💸💸💸BUY MARSHYDRO TS600: https://www.mars-hydro.com/mars-tsw-600-led-full-spectrum-hydroponic-led-grow-light 💸💸💸💸💸 OTHER AWESOME STUFF: https://www.mars-hydro.com OUR GERMINATION METHOD STEP BY STEP I Germinated all seeds in cotton pads because in my opinion is the best way, I'll tell you why. Why use cotton pads? You should use cotton pads because it is one of the fastest way to germinate seeds, it is also one of the more reliable way. This is a NOOB-FRIENDLY tenchnique, you have to respect some little and easy steps: -take one cotton pad, spray it 5 times with water; -dispose seeds in the sprayed cotton pad, remember to leave minimum 1cm of space between seeds, -take a new cotton pad, spray it 3 times with water, face it down and put it on the seeds of the first cotton pad; -now, spray the dry side 3 times. -put this/these "sandwich/es" in a sealed container of a sufficient size to store them, I use like a plastic tupperware (glass or plastic are equal) with about this size: 15x30.It contains about 8 "sandwitches". -store the container in a dark place with a temperature from 17°C and more. More light they see and colder is the place,slower will be the germination and lower will be the germination ratio. *(-If your seeds are old, not good stored and with a low germination ratio, I suggest you to use Seed Booster by Plagron. Old seeds and maybe stored in a very hot place for a long time may will be death may will not never germinate). Generally a normal cotton pad is good for 3 seeds. If you follow these steps, you will hardly have problem of non-germinating seeds. I tried all methods (except rockwool cube) and in the last two years (and I germinated a lot of seeds) I can tell that this is the faster and reliable way. I loved to use paper towel but with this metod is very easy to put too much water and it will be slow down the germination step. I really hope that this "rule" will help noob growers and maybe will help other growers to improve their skills. I personally do the step by step draw guide. ENJOY. 🍫🍫🍫ZAMNESIA SEEDS - GIRL SCOUT COOKIES AUTOMATIC: FAST AND FURIOUSLY TASTY🍫🍫🍫 TASTE OF A CLASSIC The enduring appeal of Girl Scout Cookies largely comes down to it embodying many crucial aspects of good cannabis. It owes its origins to the competitive Californian cultivation scene. Many classics have emerged from West Coast growers, but "Cookies" strains have spread particularly far and wide. Not least of all because they breed well with other strains. This has led to the creation of many Cookies hybrids looking to boost the already sensational characteristics of the original. Enter Girl Scout Cookies Automatic by Zamnesia Seeds. This strain harnesses the trademark high and flavour of GSC, and packs it into a compact autoflower. The uplifting effect of this strain makes for a high that is long-lasting and very satisfying. This is in part due to a THC content of around 17%. Although not as potent as some photoperiod GSC cultivars, this strain still makes waves throughout the entire body. These effects are made all the more sumptuous by the delectable flavours present. Distinctive dessert notes of chocolate, cinnamon, and mint make Girl Scout Cookies Automatic an ideal after-meal accompaniment. GROWING GIRL SCOUT COOKIES AUTOMATIC BY ZAMNESIA SEEDS While Girl Scout Cookies is undoubtedly a popular strain to cultivate, it isn't always the quickest to reach harvest. That's why Zamnesia decided to offer a robust autoflowering strain that encapsulates the hardy GSC genetics in small and compact plants. The resulting buds will be tight and resinous with thick orange hairs. The plant will finish its grow cycle after only 8–10 weeks post-germination. This strain is adaptable to most growing environments, reaching heights of 50–120cm indoors, and up to 150cm outdoors. While indoor plants are capable of producing 350–425g/m², outdoor plants can yield between 140–175g/plant. Not bad for such compact specimens! GIRL SCOUT COOKIES AUTOMATIC (ZAMNESIA SEEDS) FEMINIZED DATA SHEET Brand Zamnesia Seeds Genetics Auto Indica Parents Girl Scout Cookies x Ruderalis Flowering Time 9-10 weeks THC 17% CBD 0-1% Yield (Indoor) 400-450 gr/m² Yield (Outdoor) 150-200 gr/plant Height (Indoor) 120cm Height (Outdoor) 150cm Available as Feminized seeds Flowering Type Autoflowering Sex Feminized 💸💸💸💸💸 BUY GIRL SCOUT COOKIES AUTO BY ZAMNESIA: https://www.zamnesia.com/5408-zamnesia-seeds-girl-scout-cookies-Auto-feminized.html 💸💸💸💸💸 🔧💡WHAT I AM USING💡🔧 -FANS: A)OSCILLATING FAN Maximum consumption: 20 W Minimum consumption: 17 W Fan diameter: 15 cm Housing diameter: 20 cm Height with handle: 35 cm 2100 revolutions per minute Two speeds B) COMPUTER FAN Sunon DP200A - 230V Nominal power: 22/21 Watt Noise level: 44 / 49dB (A) Rated speed: 2700/3100 RPM ± 10% Air delivery: 95/115 CFM C)Cornawall Electronics Multifan Turbo, three speeds, can be used both on support surfaces and mounted on the wall. High capacity, about 740 m3 / h, can be used in medium-sized rooms. High silence and reliability make it adaptable and versatile. Technical details: Rotation range of 90 degrees Tilt adjustment Three speeds of rotation Suitable for wall and ceiling suspension Power Consumption: 35 Watts Air Flow: Approx. 740 mc / h Operating noise: approx. 39 db Diameter: 20 cm Voltage: 220-240V Frequency: 50Hz Dimensions: L 28 x D 16 x H 28 cm 💊💉💊FERTILIZERS: MAIN FERTILIZER BRAND: TOP CROP I use these products: -DEEPER UNDERGROUND: to stimulate roots system -TOP VEG: for a excellent growth in the vegetative phase -GREEN EXPLOSION: to promote creation of bud sites and to allow a faster growth -MICRO VITA: bacterias for equilibrate the soil and to make the plant healty -BIG ONE: to stimulate bud sites and to stimulate resin production -TOP BLOOM: to achieve excellent big and hard buds -TOP CANDY: to feed the buds with molasses for a tastier smoke and to gain weight -TOP BUD: to enlarge buds and to gain weight PLAGRON: PK 13-14 to have big and hard buds and to feed plants with lower effort ADVANCED NUTRIENTS: Sensi Cal-Mag Extra-> for cal mag deficiency GROTEK: CAL MAG for cal mag deficiency HESI: PowerZyme to clean and balance the soil. It feeds the plant cleaning the soil. GHE: - Final Part (ex Ripen) accelerate the final flowering phase, dissolves minerals in excess - Flash Clean to flush the plant and to be sure that all excesses are out from plant and pot These two products improve A LOT the smoke of our babies -PURPINATOR to stimulate flavonoids and to have a better taste and smell. ____________________________________________________________________________________________ ❤️ THANK YOU FOR BEING HERE ❤️ Please leave a comment with your opinions, it is very important to us to have a comparison. If you like our job, tap the weed button and follow us. It will be really appreciated. 🌿Thank you again🌿 ❤️Sweet hugs❤️ 👨‍🌾CHILLING_RACOONS👩‍🌾
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@Farmer1
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This week it really started flowering, there is a lot of wind and the earth dries very quickly despite the mulch. But level Stress she reacted very well from the beginning. Very good genetics so far.
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End of week 4 and they are smelling strong and pumping up. Getting frostier by the day . Max light now and cooler temps through the bulk up . The slightly smaller pots seem to run out of nutes fast but I’m a livht feeder so there’s some lighter leaves . Still putting out and popping off . Let’s goo
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Took the top off giving the rest of the plant a few more days and then I’ll get her dried cured and tested, update to come.. 58g dried will update again once cured n tested. Tester bud was POTENT very mouth watering straight head high leading to relaxed body high very creamy smoke my best grow so far love it. After a few days curing the smell of sweet coffee coming through fills the room with the smell.
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@AsNoriu
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Weather is sh!t ... they are not maturing at all ... hopefully inside girl will finish in 2-3 weeks and ill bump those in for last week or so, maybe it will help a bit, till then its only air and leaf .... BUT they smell so sweet and so berry ... inside not even close to that ... Girls don't drink, its too humid i guess and cold... Still gave like 2liters of 6.5 ph water, to moisture top lair. Its my first summer when i don't cover greenhouse from 8pm to 8 am. I started usually on August 1. Last year my landlord found like 30 "tomatoes" in greenhouse, can't do that trick anymore ... So its first greenhouse when i have anything else except cannabis ;))) That way just don't work or brings pity results ... Only autos in UK summers ... Will upload inside girl. Its beginning of week 6 for them by my accounts. I take my words back, she STINKS !!! Or smells ;))))) Strong, really berry and sweet. Girl is packing up and almost recovered from light shock, now those who stayed outside looks 2-3 weeks behind ... Happy Growing !
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Finally harvested this girl at days 68. She is heavy. After cutting the ties, this girl just fell over from the weight! Very minimal larf! Even the lower bud sites are nice! Can't wait to see what she weighs once dry! First DWC grow was an overall success!
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@Roberts
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The Master Kush clone from the mother plant I mess up and have not finished trimming yet. My bad got 2 jars so far. Anyway i grow these in the 2.37 liter containers as a way to hold on to a living plant once I get to test from mother plant. She grew normal size for them. I figure about 2 ounces dry maybe. I did have to wash out substrate about every other week really well to readjust ph levels. Being root bound and a hydro soil application was the struggle. Still had a great little plant. I will have a video on my YouTube channel. This won't let me upload here. I will try as usual. She only had a small corner in the Mars Hydro 3x3x6 tent. Mainly due to size of my Runtz grow. The tent, and 4 inche inline filter with smart controller worked great. Very useful piece of equipment. Oh yeah mk is super frosty and has a great smell. Thank you grow diaries community for the likes, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel. Happy growing everyone 🌱🌱🌱🍻
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Giving Alien Vs Triangle a second try after my first started showing signs of herming (bananas). Planted the seed directly in soil and she sprouted in 5 days. I'm not going to do HST bending as I did with the first one. I know I accidentally went overboard with HST the first time and that most likely caused her to herm out. I want to get her to harvest as quickly as possible so just going to do some light defoliation and a FIM pinch on this girl. The first AVT smelled insanely good when I chopped her, I'm looking forward to bringing this one to a proper harvest. 👍 My Perpetual Harvest strategy…. Originally my plan was to start 2 seeds each month, but had some seeds from one breeder that did not germinate early in my rotation. Ultimately, this caused single seeds to pop and messed up my 2 at a time plans. But, that seemed to work out OK, because now I think starting one seed every 3 weeks is a better strategy. This should provide me with 4-5 plants at a time, instead of 6. However… Since I need to shut down over the summer because my tent is currently in the attic, I’m starting 2-3 seeds at at time for the last couple of rounds. Plants get fed once weekly on weekends. Seedlings get water only. Plants in vegetation get water and Recharge. Flowering plants get water, Recharge or Big Bloom (Fox Farm). Feeding is done using 2 gallon watering can. Any additional waterings during the week are given on an as needed basis per plant. I lift the plants to help determine which plants are more dry (lighter) and provide water any plants via water bottles and watering spikes. I give each pot a quarter turn every day in an effort to make sure the plants get equal lighting from all sides. I rotate the plant in place by turning the pot 90 degrees (I am not rearranging the layout of the plants in the tent on a daily basis). The soil is an ‘organic super soil’ I mixed myself using organic top soil, organic potting soil, organic compost, organic peat moss, organic perlite, organic vermiculite, lime, epsom salt, expanded clay pellets and Jobe’s organic fast start. I am also recycling my soil and water with Recharge when using recycled soil. For plant training I have tried a variety of things, but my plans now are to do LST bending only, no HST anymore. I may decide to go back to HST again in the future, but I’m curious to compare LST training only to see how that goes. Around week 3 I'll do a FIM pinch once there are 4-5 nodes established. And some defoliation around the 3rd week of flowering. I have been doing HST bending and having good results, but think the HST may be causing the plants to take longer to harvest. I hope FIM/defoliation only will help increase harvests while getting me to harvest sooner. Setup: 1- Grow Tent 24”x48”x72” 2- Viparspectra 300W LED’s (1-V300 & 1-R300) 1- Hanging 100w CFL (26w actual) 1- Carbon Filter w/ 190cfm Fan & 4” ducts 1- 6” clip-on fan 1- 700w electric heater - oil filled radiator (in front of air intake behind tent)