After many weeks believing that I have mites in my cultivation, I start to believe that my real problem is my soil. Apparently my soil still has decomposing material and it has affected the leaves. Waiting the flowering goes and how will plant react of it. I hope it not serious thing. My leaves problem look like excess of nutrient in soil formulation. On this week I turn lights on. Now there will be 360W full power to flowering stage.

Yoyoyo.... Another BM update: Its week 7 and they are looking good... Buds are bulking up now and its almost time to defoliage and let the light shine thru to the bottom buds. I am going to wait another few days before I defoliage this mother. Will update more soon. Happy growing, BM 4TweentY

Yellow butterfly came to see me the other day; that was nice. Starting to show signs of stress on the odd leaf, localized isolated blips, blemishes, who said growing up was going to be easy! Smaller leaves have less surface area for stomata to occupy, so the stomata are packed more densely to maintain adequate gas exchange. Smaller leaves might have higher stomatal density to compensate for their smaller size, potentially maximizing carbon uptake and minimizing water loss. Environmental conditions like light intensity and water availability can influence stomatal density, and these factors can affect leaf size as well. Leaf development involves cell division and expansion, and stomatal differentiation is sensitive to these processes. In essence, the smaller leaf size can lead to a higher stomatal density due to the constraints of available space and the need to optimize gas exchange for photosynthesis and transpiration. In the long term, UV-B radiation can lead to more complex changes in stomatal morphology, including effects on both stomatal density and size, potentially impacting carbon sequestration and water use. In essence, UV-B can be a double-edged sword for stomata: It can induce stomatal closure and potentially reduce stomatal size, but it may also trigger an increase in stomatal density as a compensatory mechanism. It is generally more efficient for gas exchange to have smaller leaves with a higher stomatal density, rather than large leaves with lower stomatal density. This is because smaller stomata can facilitate faster gas exchange due to shorter diffusion pathways, even though they may have the same total pore area as fewer, larger stomata. Leaf size tends to decrease in colder climates to reduce heat loss, while larger leaves are more common in warmer, humid environments. Plants in arid regions often develop smaller leaves with a thicker cuticle and/or hairs to minimize water loss through transpiration. Conversely, plants in wet environments may have larger leaves and drip tips to facilitate water runoff. Leaf size and shape can vary based on light availability. For example, leaves in shaded areas may be larger and thinner to maximize light absorption. Leaf mass per area (LMA) can be higher in stressful environments with limited nutrients, indicating a greater investment in structural components for protection and critical resource conservation. Wind speed, humidity, and soil conditions can also influence leaf morphology, leading to variations in leaf shape, size, and surface characteristics. Small leaves: Reduce water loss in arid or cold climates. Environmental conditions significantly affect gene expression in plants. Plants are sessile organisms, meaning they cannot move to escape unfavorable conditions, so they rely on gene expression to adapt to their surroundings. Environmental factors like light, temperature, water, and nutrient availability can trigger changes in gene expression, allowing plants to respond to and survive in diverse environments. Depending on the environment a young seedling encounters, the developmental program following seed germination could be skotomorphogenesis in the dark or photomorphogenesis in the light. Light signals are interpreted by a repertoire of photoreceptors followed by sophisticated gene expression networks, eventually resulting in developmental changes. The expression and functions of photoreceptors and key signaling molecules are highly coordinated and regulated at multiple levels of the central dogma in molecular biology. Light activates gene expression through the actions of positive transcriptional regulators and the relaxation of chromatin by histone acetylation. Small regulatory RNAs help attenuate the expression of light-responsive genes. Alternative splicing, protein phosphorylation/dephosphorylation, the formation of diverse transcriptional complexes, and selective protein degradation all contribute to proteome diversity and change the functions of individual proteins. Photomorphogenesis, the light-driven developmental changes in plants, significantly impacts gene expression. It involves a cascade of events where light signals, perceived by photoreceptors, trigger changes in gene expression patterns, ultimately leading to the development of a plant in response to its light environment. Genes are expressed, not dictated! While having the potential to encode proteins, genes are not automatically and constantly active. Instead, their expression (the process of turning them into proteins) is carefully regulated by the cell, responding to internal and external signals. This means that genes can be "turned on" or "turned off," and the level of expression can be adjusted, depending on the cell's needs and the surrounding environment. In plants, genes are not simply "on" or "off" but rather their expression is carefully regulated based on various factors, including the cell type, developmental stage, and environmental conditions. This means that while all cells in a plant contain the same genetic information (the same genes), different cells will express different subsets of those genes at different times. This regulation is crucial for the proper functioning and development of the plant. When a green plant is exposed to red light, much of the red light is absorbed, but some is also reflected back. The reflected red light, along with any blue light reflected from other parts of the plant, can be perceived by our eyes as purple. Carotenoids absorb light in blue-green region of the visible spectrum, complementing chlorophyll's absorption in the red region. They safeguard the photosynthetic machinery from excessive light by activating singlet oxygen, an oxidant formed during photosynthesis. Carotenoids also quench triplet chlorophyll, which can negatively affect photosynthesis, and scavenge reactive oxygen species (ROS) that can damage cellular proteins. Additionally, carotenoid derivatives signal plant development and responses to environmental cues. They serve as precursors for the biosynthesis of phytohormones such as abscisic acid () and strigolactones (SLs). These pigments are responsible for the orange, red, and yellow hues of fruits and vegetables, while acting as free scavengers to protect plants during photosynthesis. Singlet oxygen (¹O₂) is an electronically excited state of molecular oxygen (O₂). Singlet oxygen is produced as a byproduct during photosynthesis, primarily within the photosystem II (PSII) reaction center and light-harvesting antenna complex. This occurs when excess energy from excited chlorophyll molecules is transferred to molecular oxygen. While singlet oxygen can cause oxidative damage, plants have mechanisms to manage its production and mitigate its harmful effects. Singlet oxygen (¹O₂) is considered a reactive oxygen species (ROS). It's a form of oxygen with higher energy and reactivity compared to the more common triplet oxygen found in its ground state. Singlet oxygen is generated both in biological systems, such as during photosynthesis in plants, and in cellular processes, and through chemical and photochemical reactions. While singlet oxygen is a ROS, it's important to note that it differs from other ROS like superoxide (O₂⁻), hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂), and hydroxyl radicals (OH) in its formation, reactivity, and specific biological roles. Non-photochemical quenching (NPQ) protects plants from damage caused by reactive oxygen species (ROS) by dissipating excess light energy as heat. This process reduces the overexcitation of photosynthetic pigments, which can lead to the production of ROS, thus mitigating the potential for photodamage. Zeaxanthin, a carotenoid pigment, plays a crucial role in photoprotection in plants by both enhancing non-photochemical quenching (NPQ) and scavenging reactive oxygen species (ROS). In high-light conditions, zeaxanthin is synthesized from violaxanthin through the xanthophyll cycle, and this zeaxanthin then facilitates heat dissipation of excess light energy (NPQ) and quenches harmful ROS. The Issue of Singlet Oxygen!! ROS Formation: Blue light, with its higher energy photons, can promote the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), including singlet oxygen, within the plant. Potential Damage: High levels of ROS can damage cellular components, including proteins, lipids, and DNA, potentially impacting plant health and productivity. Balancing Act: A balanced spectrum of light, including both blue and red light, is crucial for mitigating the harmful effects of excessive blue light and promoting optimal plant growth and stress tolerance. The Importance of Red Light: Red light (especially far-red) can help to mitigate the negative effects of excessive blue light by: Balancing the Photoreceptor Response: Red light can influence the activity of photoreceptors like phytochrome, which are involved in regulating plant responses to different light wavelengths. Enhancing Antioxidant Production: Red and blue light can stimulate the production of antioxidants, which help to neutralize ROS and protect the plant from oxidative damage. Optimizing Photosynthesis: Red light is efficiently used in photosynthesis, and its combination with blue light can lead to increased photosynthetic efficiency and biomass production. In controlled environments like greenhouses and vertical farms, optimizing the ratio of blue and red light is a key strategy for promoting healthy plant growth and yield. Understanding the interplay between blue light signaling, ROS production, and antioxidant defense mechanisms can inform breeding programs and biotechnological interventions aimed at improving plant stress resistance. In summary, while blue light is essential for plant development and photosynthesis, it's crucial to balance it with other light wavelengths, particularly red light, to prevent excessive ROS formation and promote overall plant health. Oxidative damage in plants occurs when there's an imbalance between the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and the plant's ability to neutralize them, leading to cellular damage. This imbalance, known as oxidative stress, can result from various environmental stressors, affecting plant growth, development, and overall productivity. Causes of Oxidative Damage: Abiotic stresses: These include extreme temperatures (heat and cold), drought, salinity, heavy metal toxicity, and excessive light. Biotic stresses: Pathogen attacks and insect infestations can also trigger oxidative stress. Metabolic processes: Normal cellular activities, particularly in chloroplasts, mitochondria, and peroxisomes, can generate ROS as byproducts. Certain chlorophyll biosynthesis intermediates can produce singlet oxygen (1O2), a potent ROS, leading to oxidative damage. ROS can damage lipids (lipid peroxidation), proteins, carbohydrates, and nucleic acids (DNA). Oxidative stress can compromise the integrity of cell membranes, affecting their function and permeability. Oxidative damage can interfere with essential cellular functions, including photosynthesis, respiration, and signal transduction. In severe cases, oxidative stress can trigger programmed cell death (apoptosis). Oxidative damage can lead to stunted growth, reduced biomass, and lower crop yields. Plants have evolved intricate antioxidant defense systems to counteract oxidative stress. These include: Enzymes like superoxide dismutase (SOD), catalase (CAT), and various peroxidases scavenge ROS and neutralize their damaging effects. Antioxidant molecules like glutathione, ascorbic acid (vitamin C), C60 fullerene, and carotenoids directly neutralize ROS. Developing plant varieties with gene expression focused on enhanced antioxidant capacity and stress tolerance is crucial. Optimizing irrigation, fertilization, and other management practices can help minimize stress and oxidative damage. Applying antioxidant compounds or elicitors can help plants cope with oxidative stress. Introducing genes for enhanced antioxidant enzymes or stress-related proteins over generations. Phytohormones, also known as plant hormones, are a group of naturally occurring organic compounds that regulate plant growth, development, and various physiological processes. The five major classes of phytohormones are: auxins, gibberellins, cytokinins, ethylene, and abscisic acid. In addition to these, other phytohormones like brassinosteroids, jasmonates, and salicylates also play significant roles. Here's a breakdown of the key phytohormones: Auxins: Primarily involved in cell elongation, root initiation, and apical dominance. Gibberellins: Promote stem elongation, seed germination, and flowering. Cytokinins: Stimulate cell division and differentiation, and delay leaf senescence. Ethylene: Regulates fruit ripening, leaf abscission, and senescence. Abscisic acid (ABA): Plays a role in seed dormancy, stomatal closure, and stress responses. Brassinosteroids: Involved in cell elongation, division, and stress responses. Jasmonates: Regulate plant defense against pathogens and herbivores, as well as other processes. Salicylic acid: Plays a role in plant defense against pathogens. 1. Red and Far-Red Light (Phytochromes): Red light: Primarily activates the phytochrome system, converting it to its active form (Pfr), which promotes processes like stem elongation and flowering. Far-red light: Inhibits the phytochrome system by converting the active Pfr form back to the inactive Pr form. This can trigger shade avoidance responses and inhibit germination. Phytohormones: Red and far-red light regulate phytohormones like auxin and gibberellins, which are involved in stem elongation and other growth processes. 2. Blue Light (Cryptochromes and Phototropins): Blue light: Activates cryptochromes and phototropins, which are involved in various processes like stomatal opening, seedling de-etiolation, and phototropism (growth towards light). Phytohormones: Blue light affects auxin levels, influencing stem growth, and also impacts other phytohormones involved in these processes. Example: Blue light can promote vegetative growth and can interact with red light to promote flowering. 3. UV-B Light (UV-B Receptors): UV-B light: Perceived by UVR8 receptors, it can affect plant growth and development and has roles in stress responses, like UV protection. Phytohormones: UV-B light can influence phytohormones involved in stress responses, potentially affecting growth and development. 4. Other Colors: Green light: Plants are generally less sensitive to green light, as chlorophyll reflects it. Other wavelengths: While less studied, other wavelengths can also influence plant growth and development through interactions with different photoreceptors and phytohormones. Key Points: Cross-Signaling: Plants often experience a mix of light wavelengths, leading to complex interactions between different photoreceptors and phytohormones. Species Variability: The precise effects of light color on phytohormones can vary between different plant species. Hormonal Interactions: Phytohormones don't act in isolation; their interactions and interplay with other phytohormones and environmental signals are critical for plant responses. The spectral ratio of light (the composition of different colors of light) significantly influences a plant's hormonal balance. Different wavelengths of light are perceived by specific photoreceptors in plants, which in turn regulate the production and activity of various plant hormones (phytohormones). These hormones then control a wide range of developmental processes.

Looks like I had a small deficiency of sorts (calcium I think) and I'm feeling optimistic about the corrective actions I took. However, I think it is time to change my nutrients up, the sooner the better. plants are sagging and are in need of soil to hold the nutrients so ill re-pot mid week

Problem with ph

Chance Of A Lifetime Greenhouse Seeds Wonder Pie Week 7 18th June 2020 Okay so I will start off with the good part of the week so as not to shock you too much..... Last week I mentioned how I needed to "feed" the Living soil I'm growing in and this week I got stuck into it I did a run of worm tea straight from my worm farm. I then filled the bucket with rainwater and added in some Blackstrap Molasses (Vid 1) Then in went some Greenhouse Feeding "Enhancer" and Seaweed solution Then once that was all mixed in I added some "Dr Greenthumbs High Tea" and threw in a few airstones and starting the bubbling process which will take aprox 48 hours. The Purpose of this Byodynamic "TEA" that I'm brewing is to provide essential microbial feeds to the living organisms within my soil in the form of natural sugars and starches etc. I also chopped up a fresh piece of Aloe vera and let it soak in a bit of water for a few days that I was planning on feeding to the Girls............ Now for the Part that is both upsetting to me and to be honest very bloody Disapointing!! 😠 Two of the three Wonder Pie Plants have Lots of Male Balls developing and are Fucking useless hermoprodites 💩 The 3rd Plant so far has no sign of Pollen sacks developing but if it Does then all of my hard work to date will be for Zip because I will be pulling it up just like I did to the other two 😢 So there you have it 7 weeks of Good growth not to mention Energy costs etc down the drain for those two plants and if the third one goes Hermie too I'll be out of the Running to win that trip to Amsterdam 😢 Because the other Female plant I have growing in the same tent (Dinafem Cheese) has not shown any signs of Hermie traits I'm putting this one down to VERY unstable and unreliable genetics so if you are growing this strain Wonder Pie keep a good eye on it once flowering has been initiated as I got lucky and saw them early but if left to grow unnoticed just one rogue pollen sack could seed your entire crop with unusable hermophroditic shit seeds . Just in case I get lucky and the final plant stays Fully Female , I went ahead and added in 30grams of the Bio Bloom Mix to her soil and watered it in . Well thats my story for the week Not the one I was wanting to tell but shit happens and it happens to me on a regular basis 😖 If I dont update again from here you will know that it went hermie and got destroyed . Thanks to all who have followed and liked so far I really appreciate it. Good luck everyone If I dont make it past this point

One or two weeks and this little beaut should be finished. Really happy with the trichome development in the last week or so starting to smell gassy 🤙 stay lit everyone, happy new year 👍🐞🤙🌲

IVE MADE MORE VIDEOS BUT THEY JUST DON'T SEEM TO UPLOAD AND IT'S FAR TO SLOW TO DO IT FROM HOME 6/27 Made last week a five day week to get back on track. It's still overcast and rainy. It's not raining a lot bit it's consistent. Despite the weather the plants are doing phenomenal. I'll update later. It's 1pm. It's been raining consistently since 11. Just a sprinkle but it's steady. I'm going to begun uploading the weeks weather on my diary. I may start a new diary for the plants I light depped as they are flowering pretty good. Rain stopped and it's just overcast for now. I looked at some videos and did a comparison of videos one week ago and videos today and HOLY SHIT! WHAT A DIFFERENCE. Especially the light depped 10th planet. Well everything but that was the most significant difference. I'm astonished at the health and growth despite the crummy weather. Continued to rain. Just got harder. Plants are taking it but it's flooding underneath the pallets a little but it will be fine. The light dep however has me concerned. The 10th planet is looking spectacular. The bigger purple punch I'd looking good too. The smaller one though looks to have a pollen sack coming off one of the branches. Considering its not on the otherside I assume it's not just a swollen calyx. I don't mind chucking it especially if that means I don't hurt my other girls so I want to make sure. I sent videos to a few other growers and I'll add a question on here. Those three plants have been isolated from the rest for a few days due to rain. I have the suspect isolated alone until I can confirm. It sucks cause the light Depp was going good and the6ve all got little flowers. 6/28 Well that fucking sucks. ALL THREE plants I tried to light depp hermed on me. I could see male flowers. Luckily I had been keeping a really good eye on them and it was preflowers mostly. At least I caught it. One or two stamines on each plant. Would've been really easy to miss. Only one had STARTED to elongate into a stem so I think I caught it early enough. Plus since all this rain they've been kept in a different location then my big girls. Glad I did that now. Boy the roots looked good on those plants. I just grabbed the stalk and lifted and it came right out of the pot. I held it there admiring it for a minute. This sucks. At least the real plants are doing good. As far as I know. No male preflowers that's for sure. I've got some feedback from other growers and the videos are a little blurry but I had found a light leak and I'm certain these plants hermed. I know I could've tried to save them but I didn't want to risk it. I compared what I was seeing with Google photos and other websites. Aside from the larger ball with its stem, there were also several little bumps besides developed calyxes that were weaving into little buds. Trust me that I wouldn't cut down my plants if I wasn't 110% sure. I might've been able to "save them" but to me it's just not worth the risk. 6/29 I was second guessing myself pretty hard last night due to some responses I got on my light dep and messages I got from other growets. Made my anxiety horrible but I looked on several video's I'd taken again and I know what I saw. I felt better after that. This was after I researched and waited THREE days until I saw the ball on the stem and the groupings of small nubs under a fresh yellow flower. These plants were flowering good and it sucks to lose them. One MAY have been ok but one was a runt and had all the characteristics of a true hermaphrodite. They were only in 3's and I couldn't risk my harvest for an experiment. Still sucks. Oh well. Sun is starting to come out. Plants seem to be doing fantastic. I have one spot on a leaf that looks like a pillar munched on a leaf so I'll probably get the bt out soon as I have a dry day that I can apply it. I'll have to check the weather. I need to start a nute regiment but the plants aren't telling me they need anything yet. 6/30 I fucked up dates or dodnt do it yesterday or it didnt save right so I'm leaving this blank today is the 1st. 7/1 I have still only watered s couple times and I haven't had to feed. This week I'm going to start nutes. I had some external ersonal situations that have kept me from my plants. I'm hoping to get back on track. I noticed some pillar damage so I'll need to dig out the BT. This morning I saw this giant ground hog by my cage. Hated too but had to get rid of him. Of course some of the blowback landed on the leaves of one of my plants. I tried to clean it as best I could. Better than that fat bastard eating everything in one night. I broke a branch either falling around it or bulling through when I was pissed or I LST it the wrong way and the wind broke it against the tomato cage. Nice big branch too on top. I tried to fix it with duct tape but we'll see. The plants need me to spend sometime with them. I need to clean them up. Apply bt and give them their first feeding. I'll update as I go. They don't seem nutrient deficient by any means but I don't think it would hurt to start the nutes. 7/2 Bags were lighter today and if it wasn't going to rain tonight and tomorrow I'd he watering. Plants look great so soil isn't depleted yet I guess. They're growing rather rapidly. The branch I broke didnt make it. Had an idea it wouldn't but I had to try. I waited on the BT on account of the rain. I may go back over and change my mind and water with silica or a mild nute solution or maybe apply the BT. Depends what time I get back. I have some work I need to do over there. There's a few that I need to clean up the bottoms on. Pest damage is minor and limited to one or two plants and a leaf or two only. 7/3 More rain. It was supposed to rain this morning too but it didn't. We got .33in yesterday and through last night so I thought that was ok. Looking back on my previous diaries I'm doing things significantly different than before. I had used a lot more nutes earlier on. This morning I mixed two gallons of 2tsp of big bloom and fed it to the 9 plants in smart pots leaving the container plants as they have much more water in them. Looking back at other diaries I previously had, WPM and septoria by this time not to mention a shit ton of other pests I was fighting by this time. Since I poisoned where the cagexwas multiple times and sprayed the cage before it was moved I luckily don't have that problem yet knock on wood. I'm planning to apply BT tonight to deal with the moth larvae if there are any. I'm looking at plants around this area and im seeimg SOME septoria and pm on raspberry bushes and burdock so it is around. I made sure my cage is not by any other vegetation this year and is sitting on asphalt with the bags on raised pallets. Good thing I did or I guarantee they'd be flooded by now. I've been seeing multiple complaints from maine growers online (AND THEY HAVE HEALTHY PLANTS!) saying this is the worst year ever. Maybe they need a dose of fusarium oxysporum to keep them humble. This is maine. If you don't like the weather just wait five minutes. Meanwhile I'll be doing my sun dance hoping for sun. "Hard to grow cannabis with no sunlight" said another grower on my forum.

Das Umtopfen war erfolgreich und die Pflanzen wächst und wächst und wächst .... und das obwohl ich sie ein paar Tage nicht gießen konnte 👏

We planted 2 seeds, and 2 sprouted within a day, so far everything is normal. The seeds and fertilizer were provided by the store www.zamnesia.com. Many thanks to Zamnesia and Plagron for these gifts, with them we will grow an excellent crop."

She has some strange growth I'm not sure if I'll keep it or not yet, might just throw it in a 1 gal and see how it turns out. Just want to maximize space if it's not perfectly healthy I'll try somethin else.

My Purple Star Killer girl looks great. I am doing a lot of LST to try to keep her spread out and not get too tall. She's drinking 5 gallons a day now and I think I'll have move that up to 10 gallons soon.

👉 This is the first staggered harvest I have done. The highest parts of the plant were definitely ahead of each lower level of flowers. So it made sense to give this a try. Also, there were so many sugar leaves in the flowers I knew I was facing some major trim time. So I started at the highest branch of colas and that was the main stem…what I call the Queen cola, on April 4. I was also very busy with work and life so I spaced out each successive branch by a day or two…or so. To harvest I would cut each major branch from the top down. There would be one major cola ( and best specimen) on each branch. That cola was trimmed so it was still on its stem and then weighed. I recorded the weight of the cola then assigned it a letter, put on a clothes pin, then hung on a rack. I would weigh the cola over a couple of days till it had loss 75% of it wet weight. I would cut from the stem for the final weight, then place in a jar with a hygrometer. I would monitor the jars and if they were above 62% I would take off the jar lid, then replace when humidity was back down. When stable I put a humidity pack in some of the jars, but not all, just to see if I can observe a difference after the cure. 👉 My last trim penance was served on May 1. Almost a full month. The first cola harvested is already being tested. I did a close trim and removed as many sugar leaves as possible. I think I spent over 10 hours in total. So glad I chose to stagger the job. I trimmed any frosty sugar leaves over a trim tray with a screen for a bottom. I also scissored a bunch of the larf buds into small bits to add to the trim. I made a nice small wafer of just trichomes with no plant matter. Very nice, sweet stuff. I’m letting the large pile of trimmed sugar leaves dry out till crispy and will hand grind them over that screen and press the kief produced into pucks. It’s green and has lots of plant material with it…but its still sweet, and a very nice topper to a bong or joint. 👉 There were a lot of nice buds of what I call secondary flowers. Those were on secondary branch ends mostly. These buds were placed on a dry net. After 24hrs, I placed them in a paper bag. When they had lost 75% of their wet weight they were put into a jar with a hydrometer. Almost everything that wasn’t a branch end flower was put in the larf bin. Lots of larf. I didn’t weight any of it dry and just the wet weight from a couple of branches. I plan on making bubble hash and extracts (oil and tincture) with the larf. Of course planning and doing are two separate issues. I have acquired all the proper gear and done lots of research. I am also experimenting with the drying environment. In the past I was using a direct fan to oscillate directly on the buds for 24 hrs. At 24hrs the buds were put in bags and also kept them in direct wind. After a couple of branch sets I decided to stop oscillating the fan and make the breeze indirect. I still put the buds in bags after 24 hrs and kept the wind indirect. It took a few days to get to 25% doing it this way, as opposed to 2 days in bags with direct wind. The slower is supposed to be better, but risks moldy buds. I’m not doing everything the same way so I’m curious to see if there are perceptible differences in jar aroma and taste. To further complicate things to eye-roll status, The staggered harvest should have improved the lower level of flowers to the same ripeness. I can honestly tell buds from the same plants taken at different levels. The lower ones are noticeably weaker. I won’t start testing to see if there is improvement till the flowers are at least 4 months cured.

I fed her today!!!

Flowering day 70 since time switch to 12/12 h. Hey guys :-) Finally the time has come . The lady was harvested and hung upside down in the dry tent 😍. Before that, she stood in the drying tent in complete darkness for 2 days and the large leaves were removed. The small leaves stay attached during the drying process so that they protect the buds and allow them to dry more slowly and evenly :-) . In the dry tent, the temperature is 18-19.5 degrees and the humidity is 54-58% 👍. In this environment they are now allowed to hang for 10-14 days before they are fine-tuned and trimmed clean by hand. then after trimming they come to ferment for 6-12 weeks in dark jars with bobeda packs 62% to keep the perfect humidity. After a few weeks, the Boveda packs 58% are used so that they can slowly dry out :-) . Of course there is one last update after trimming. Until then, I wish you a lot of fun with the update. Stay healthy and let it grow 💚🙏🏻 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 You can buy this Nutrients at : https://greenbuzzliquids.com/en/shop/ With the discount code: Made_in_Germany you get a discount of 15% on all products from an order value of 100 euros. 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 You can buy this strain at : Clearwater Seeds Water 💧 💧💧 Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.8 - 6.5 MadeInGermany

Day 1 week 2 Day 2 week 2 Day 3 week 2

Day 51 : Watered with 2.5L each lady. I added as always 1 co2 tab per 4.5L . Also i added nutrients. The next one will be pure water. Her burns stopped and doesn't continue to burn new leaves. She lost a lot of power because of lack of energy. She is trying to produce some stuff , i am curious to see how this fight will proceed. Edit (Day 56) : Watered 1.5L pure tap water of 7.5ph and 360ppm. No co2 today. Just pure water with 0.5/L Cal-Mag. Buds are fattening nothing else.

Finish cookies Haze.