Very vigorous plants✅

The three youngest plants (Red Hot, Critical XXL and Sweet Cheese) are taking only CalMag, and only 1,5ml/L of both Coco A and B

9/3/2023: Still doing some minor defoliation and tucking the branches under the scrog screen. Think this will be the final week in veg. I plan on letting her dry out a bit more before bottom watering again, so I can water in some pre-bloom nutrients, before flipping to flower. As of today there is still water in the reservoir. 9/5/2023: The reservoir dried out yesterday and today I top watered with about 1 gallon. Added Jay Plantspeaker Quillaja 60, Coconut Powder, Rootwise Bio-Catalyst and Bio-Phos, BuildASoil Big 6 and BuildABloom, Pure Protein Dry, Fermented Comfrey Extract and Fermented Peach Extract. Then I filled up the reservoir with the remaining 2 gallons of water, with a ph of 6, with Silica and cal mag added in. This will likely be the last top waterings until stretch is complete. 9/8/2023: She is showing some signs of overwatering. I think the top watering rhe other day may have made the soil a bit too wet. I've pulled back the cover to let the soil dry a bit. I will also let the reservoir dry out a few days before filling again. The other plants is doing awesome, but the Melon milk seems to be a bit more moody. Was hoping she would fill out the right side of the screen, but I'm running out of time. The plant on the left is getting too big and I'm running out of room. Plan to flip to flower very soon, but I want to get this waterings issue sorted first.

Всем привет, дорогие друзья! Ещё одна неделя в копилку. 50 дней позади. Начинается активный рост перед цветением, одна из соседок-халкберри уже выпустила одуваны аж на 8 день в режиме 12/12. Банана активно пьёт компот, по 2-3л в день, лейкой орудовать становится сложно. Задумываюсь о капельном полив на след цикл. В целом все хорошо как мне кажется. А вам? Пишите в комментариях, всегда рад Вашему вниманию, коллеги и спасибо! 23.10.21. Заснял спящих красавиц. Оцените музыку😍 сделаю ещё видос как проснутся и фото

What’s going on lady’s an gentleman. GSC auto is going on w/8 an is killing in bud production! Had slight cal/mag issue got that fixed using roots organic cal+mag @1.5 tbs in a gallon of water an top feed. Rest of the week she got bottom feed. She is currently closer to the light an getting 49 DLI, RH@55%, Day temp is 81-82 degrees. Night temps is drop to 70-71 degrees. Other then that I’m stoked to see this girl finish she about a week or two out. An sofar just slaying it. That about all for this week Happy growing everyone an happy holidays

SUNDAY 5/5: Rearranged the gardens..have 17 plants in the 4 x 5 now...yowsa! MONDAY: Plucked some dead leaves and did a trichrome check on the furthest along. TUESDAY: I observed some white spots on a few leaves here and there throughout the garden, so I sprayed them today with Trifecta Crop Cure, a concoction of a bunch of natural plant oils. I already decreased the humidity in the room to 45% with my new 70L dehumidifier, so I think they'll be fine. I'll spray them again tomorrow and the next day, then I'll have to hope that did the trick, because several plants are already in the harvest window.

Bonjour à tous les padawans et maîtres Cette plante a vraiment une bonne odeur de skunk et franchement elle sent très fort Les têtes sont tellement lourdes que j'ai du attacher les branches avec une corde et mettre un gros tuteur pour maintenir le tout Les trichomes commencent à devenir laiteux je commencerais le rinçage la semaine prochaine en attendant j'arrose toujours quand le pot est léger avec 2 litres d'eau ph6.3 à laquelle j'ajoute 5 millilitres de Hesi bloom 2.5 millilitres de Hesi phosphorus 2 millilitres de Hesi boost et la dose recommandée de supervit

Red gorilla auto/left back-7 weeks Red gorilla auto/right back-6 weeks Purple punch og/ front-4 weeks

They're improving substantially. Minor Tent & Equipment Sterilizing All 900W running for late Flower Adjusted the Fan positions & speeds Raised the humidifier closer to canopy Average VPD = 1.5kPa @ 19C

Day 49: Today i transplanted the four ladies into 26.6 liter fabric pot's (PurePot's) using following soil mixture; 75l All Mix 15l Coco Mix 22,5l Vermiculite I took off a few fanleaves and tried to bend down all the branches, on Plants #1 and #4 i had to do some supercropping to achieve that goal. Afterwards i watered every plant with 5 liters of following mixture; 20l of water 80ml of Root Juice 40ml of Bio Heaven 40ml of Acti-Vera Day 54: Today i took off a few fanleaves and tied down all the branches (8 on each plant) plant #1 suffered a little damage in form of a broken branch that i tied back together, it's snaped half way but since it didn't die off until now i guess it will get stronger.. No watering today as the pot's still feel pretty heavy. That's about it for today.. Stay tuned for more updates ✌️

this week was a lil challenging, had to get out of LST due to the fact that I broke a branch and that just tripped me off and I took off all my ties , apart from that i started giving her bloom products because I noticed a few hairs. I started applying tiresias mist to one of my branches so I can get pollen sacks to produce my own fem seeds, as I plan on crossing my fortune cookies autoflower with my ak48 autoflower and creating a new strain called "DRAKO" AUTOFLOWER well till next update . O.G. Bang Bang !! out.....

Gestern hat die 5te Blütewoche begonnen. Hab jz mal obligatorisch einen Gelbsticker ins Zelt gehangen, falls sich doch mal eine Vieh in meinen Garten verirrt. Aber bis jz immer noch keine Probleme außer 3-4 kleine Fliegen denen ich immer sofort das Leben verkürzt habe. Läuft top. Bilder werden geupdatet.

👉Alrighty Then👈 56 days in flipped at 28 days It's been a great week all plants are killing it ......... 👉we are now in full flowering 👈 There all gonna get a slight defolation over the next few days to let air and light get in there which seems like I'm doing just about every feeding 👈 👉So I topped all but Babba Kush and Slurricane they didn't require it ... 👌 Got some nice level tops 👌 I've now started there full flowering nutrients program , so we are set to go ...... Persian Pie from Greenhouseseeds Full Gas from Greenhouseseeds Babba Kush from Greenhouseseeds Rainbow Melon from Fastbuds Papaya Sherbet from Fastbuds Weddingcheesecake FF From Fastbuds Purple Oreoz F1 From Seedsman Slurricane From Premium Cultivars Soil by Promix Nutrients by Cronks Well this should be fun 🙃 Thanks to all my growmies out there for stopping by its much appreciated 👈 👉Happy Growing👈

4/5: Took 4 cuttings from the shortie 4/12: All 4 are rooted and growing! 5/1: Transplanted from 1gallon pots to 5 gallon pots. 5/3: Decided to grow one of them in my tiny tent and the other 3 will go outdoors. 5/4: Took 2 of them outdoors under the 270w and sunshine. 5/6: Trained all of them today and fed some boomerang along with the kelp, molasses, big bloom, and silica. Foliar fed and took the last one outdoors. The one in the tent is really flourishing! 5/7 - 5/17: Excellent growth! The supplemental lights are making all the difference.👍 Did some more training on all of them early in the week. The one in the closet is spreading out nicely and budding up pretty quickly...but what's very cool is that all 4 clones outdoors are flowering?!?!? I sure hope they go ahead and finish rather than starting to revegetate as the days continue to get longer. Much rain for the past few days, but it let up long enough for me to install another 200w of waterproof 3000k LED lights a couple of feet above them. Very intense lighting, great bang for the buck. So now, I've got 350w of 3000k and 120w of 6500k in the outdoor garden. That's gonna have to do it, as I also am using 1400w in my indoor gardens, plus a/c..bills are getting ridiculous. 5/18 - 5/28: The clone in the tent is still stacking up really well. I guess the ones outdoors are too, but next to the seedling plants, they seem puny. Many buds though... Since they decided to flower early, I sprayed them all down with a product that is loaded with hormones and auxins and stuff that's supposed to retard vertical growth and promote branching. It's also supposed to speed arvest time by as much as a week. I hope they can finish before the summer solstice (June 21), otherwise they might try to reveg instead of finishing.. Hopefully it helps keep them from stretching so much that I'll have to supercrop them. Their mamma was a shortie, so they really shouldn't get too tall anyway. I also foliar fed them several times this week with something called MicroLife Maximum Blooms, Pow! They love the stuff! 5/28 - 5/31: I did some training on a two of the outdoor clones early in the week between rain showers, and foliar fed with Microlife maximum bloom formula. She was looking a little N deficient, so I assume the dry amendments have petered out. They were dry enough, so I top-fed her with another couple tablespoons of cavern culture and on the 31st. I gave them big bloom, tiger bloom, grow big, beastie bloomz, silica, endoboost, signal, humic acid, liquid kelp/fish emulsion, and liquid molasses. The indoor clone is looking awesome. I fed her heavily on the 30th. It just feels so strange that I'll be harvesting outdoor photos in June!?! That's it for week 8- 6/1 - 6/8: Early in the week I gave them about a half gallon of water with liquid molasses, cal-mag, silica, and beastie bloomz only. I foliar fed them a couple of times during the week, right at daybreak. I fed them on Saturday, the 6th..about a gallon each..beastie bloomz, microlife maximum blooms, cal-mag, humic acid, grow big, big bloom, sweet & sticky, and signal. They are looking very good..buds galore. The indoor clone got the same nutes, but on different days. She's also covered in buds, and they are beginning to fatten up.👍 6/9-7/4: Busy with other gardens, so not many updates... Indoor clone got to spend the last 2 weeks of her life in my closet under the quantum boards and UVB. I harvested and washed her buds on 6/28, let her hang dry and weighed and jarred her up on the 4th of July. She came in a 111g of cola and 45g of lower bud with only about 5g of larf. Nice!👍 She smells just like her mommy and has the same uber-dense buds. She was topped, so the buds aren't as mighty as the mamma's, but much more plentiful.👌 Outdoor clones: I had a massive spider mite attack, and during the same week, I had a grasshopper invasion...I lost a few plants, one of which as a FFT1 clone. I had just harvested my autos and my indoor clones from the closet, so I moved the remaining two clones in under the quantum boards. I treated them for spider mites several ways for several days and have given them much TLC. Hopefully their buds fatten up some more. They stanky, but they kinda slim... 7/11: I harvested the last two clones tonight. So sticky!!! I washed them and hung them to dry.

No big changes this week, some pistils have started to mature, I believe that starting today she will get fat! 😀 The smell started to get stronger this week too, the aroma resembles coffee with pine! 😋

Yellow butterfly came to see me the other day; that was nice. Starting to show signs of stress on the odd leaf, localized isolated blips, blemishes, who said growing up was going to be easy! Smaller leaves have less surface area for stomata to occupy, so the stomata are packed more densely to maintain adequate gas exchange. Smaller leaves might have higher stomatal density to compensate for their smaller size, potentially maximizing carbon uptake and minimizing water loss. Environmental conditions like light intensity and water availability can influence stomatal density, and these factors can affect leaf size as well. Leaf development involves cell division and expansion, and stomatal differentiation is sensitive to these processes. In essence, the smaller leaf size can lead to a higher stomatal density due to the constraints of available space and the need to optimize gas exchange for photosynthesis and transpiration. In the long term, UV-B radiation can lead to more complex changes in stomatal morphology, including effects on both stomatal density and size, potentially impacting carbon sequestration and water use. In essence, UV-B can be a double-edged sword for stomata: It can induce stomatal closure and potentially reduce stomatal size, but it may also trigger an increase in stomatal density as a compensatory mechanism. It is generally more efficient for gas exchange to have smaller leaves with a higher stomatal density, rather than large leaves with lower stomatal density. This is because smaller stomata can facilitate faster gas exchange due to shorter diffusion pathways, even though they may have the same total pore area as fewer, larger stomata. Leaf size tends to decrease in colder climates to reduce heat loss, while larger leaves are more common in warmer, humid environments. Plants in arid regions often develop smaller leaves with a thicker cuticle and/or hairs to minimize water loss through transpiration. Conversely, plants in wet environments may have larger leaves and drip tips to facilitate water runoff. Leaf size and shape can vary based on light availability. For example, leaves in shaded areas may be larger and thinner to maximize light absorption. Leaf mass per area (LMA) can be higher in stressful environments with limited nutrients, indicating a greater investment in structural components for protection and critical resource conservation. Wind speed, humidity, and soil conditions can also influence leaf morphology, leading to variations in leaf shape, size, and surface characteristics. Small leaves: Reduce water loss in arid or cold climates. Environmental conditions significantly affect gene expression in plants. Plants are sessile organisms, meaning they cannot move to escape unfavorable conditions, so they rely on gene expression to adapt to their surroundings. Environmental factors like light, temperature, water, and nutrient availability can trigger changes in gene expression, allowing plants to respond to and survive in diverse environments. Depending on the environment a young seedling encounters, the developmental program following seed germination could be skotomorphogenesis in the dark or photomorphogenesis in the light. Light signals are interpreted by a repertoire of photoreceptors followed by sophisticated gene expression networks, eventually resulting in developmental changes. The expression and functions of photoreceptors and key signaling molecules are highly coordinated and regulated at multiple levels of the central dogma in molecular biology. Light activates gene expression through the actions of positive transcriptional regulators and the relaxation of chromatin by histone acetylation. Small regulatory RNAs help attenuate the expression of light-responsive genes. Alternative splicing, protein phosphorylation/dephosphorylation, the formation of diverse transcriptional complexes, and selective protein degradation all contribute to proteome diversity and change the functions of individual proteins. Photomorphogenesis, the light-driven developmental changes in plants, significantly impacts gene expression. It involves a cascade of events where light signals, perceived by photoreceptors, trigger changes in gene expression patterns, ultimately leading to the development of a plant in response to its light environment. Genes are expressed, not dictated! While having the potential to encode proteins, genes are not automatically and constantly active. Instead, their expression (the process of turning them into proteins) is carefully regulated by the cell, responding to internal and external signals. This means that genes can be "turned on" or "turned off," and the level of expression can be adjusted, depending on the cell's needs and the surrounding environment. In plants, genes are not simply "on" or "off" but rather their expression is carefully regulated based on various factors, including the cell type, developmental stage, and environmental conditions. This means that while all cells in a plant contain the same genetic information (the same genes), different cells will express different subsets of those genes at different times. This regulation is crucial for the proper functioning and development of the plant. When a green plant is exposed to red light, much of the red light is absorbed, but some is also reflected back. The reflected red light, along with any blue light reflected from other parts of the plant, can be perceived by our eyes as purple. Carotenoids absorb light in blue-green region of the visible spectrum, complementing chlorophyll's absorption in the red region. They safeguard the photosynthetic machinery from excessive light by activating singlet oxygen, an oxidant formed during photosynthesis. Carotenoids also quench triplet chlorophyll, which can negatively affect photosynthesis, and scavenge reactive oxygen species (ROS) that can damage cellular proteins. Additionally, carotenoid derivatives signal plant development and responses to environmental cues. They serve as precursors for the biosynthesis of phytohormones such as abscisic acid () and strigolactones (SLs). These pigments are responsible for the orange, red, and yellow hues of fruits and vegetables, while acting as free scavengers to protect plants during photosynthesis. Singlet oxygen (¹O₂) is an electronically excited state of molecular oxygen (O₂). Singlet oxygen is produced as a byproduct during photosynthesis, primarily within the photosystem II (PSII) reaction center and light-harvesting antenna complex. This occurs when excess energy from excited chlorophyll molecules is transferred to molecular oxygen. While singlet oxygen can cause oxidative damage, plants have mechanisms to manage its production and mitigate its harmful effects. Singlet oxygen (¹O₂) is considered a reactive oxygen species (ROS). It's a form of oxygen with higher energy and reactivity compared to the more common triplet oxygen found in its ground state. Singlet oxygen is generated both in biological systems, such as during photosynthesis in plants, and in cellular processes, and through chemical and photochemical reactions. While singlet oxygen is a ROS, it's important to note that it differs from other ROS like superoxide (O₂⁻), hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂), and hydroxyl radicals (OH) in its formation, reactivity, and specific biological roles. Non-photochemical quenching (NPQ) protects plants from damage caused by reactive oxygen species (ROS) by dissipating excess light energy as heat. This process reduces the overexcitation of photosynthetic pigments, which can lead to the production of ROS, thus mitigating the potential for photodamage. Zeaxanthin, a carotenoid pigment, plays a crucial role in photoprotection in plants by both enhancing non-photochemical quenching (NPQ) and scavenging reactive oxygen species (ROS). In high-light conditions, zeaxanthin is synthesized from violaxanthin through the xanthophyll cycle, and this zeaxanthin then facilitates heat dissipation of excess light energy (NPQ) and quenches harmful ROS. The Issue of Singlet Oxygen!! ROS Formation: Blue light, with its higher energy photons, can promote the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), including singlet oxygen, within the plant. Potential Damage: High levels of ROS can damage cellular components, including proteins, lipids, and DNA, potentially impacting plant health and productivity. Balancing Act: A balanced spectrum of light, including both blue and red light, is crucial for mitigating the harmful effects of excessive blue light and promoting optimal plant growth and stress tolerance. The Importance of Red Light: Red light (especially far-red) can help to mitigate the negative effects of excessive blue light by: Balancing the Photoreceptor Response: Red light can influence the activity of photoreceptors like phytochrome, which are involved in regulating plant responses to different light wavelengths. Enhancing Antioxidant Production: Red and blue light can stimulate the production of antioxidants, which help to neutralize ROS and protect the plant from oxidative damage. Optimizing Photosynthesis: Red light is efficiently used in photosynthesis, and its combination with blue light can lead to increased photosynthetic efficiency and biomass production. In controlled environments like greenhouses and vertical farms, optimizing the ratio of blue and red light is a key strategy for promoting healthy plant growth and yield. Understanding the interplay between blue light signaling, ROS production, and antioxidant defense mechanisms can inform breeding programs and biotechnological interventions aimed at improving plant stress resistance. In summary, while blue light is essential for plant development and photosynthesis, it's crucial to balance it with other light wavelengths, particularly red light, to prevent excessive ROS formation and promote overall plant health. Oxidative damage in plants occurs when there's an imbalance between the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and the plant's ability to neutralize them, leading to cellular damage. This imbalance, known as oxidative stress, can result from various environmental stressors, affecting plant growth, development, and overall productivity. Causes of Oxidative Damage: Abiotic stresses: These include extreme temperatures (heat and cold), drought, salinity, heavy metal toxicity, and excessive light. Biotic stresses: Pathogen attacks and insect infestations can also trigger oxidative stress. Metabolic processes: Normal cellular activities, particularly in chloroplasts, mitochondria, and peroxisomes, can generate ROS as byproducts. Certain chlorophyll biosynthesis intermediates can produce singlet oxygen (1O2), a potent ROS, leading to oxidative damage. ROS can damage lipids (lipid peroxidation), proteins, carbohydrates, and nucleic acids (DNA). Oxidative stress can compromise the integrity of cell membranes, affecting their function and permeability. Oxidative damage can interfere with essential cellular functions, including photosynthesis, respiration, and signal transduction. In severe cases, oxidative stress can trigger programmed cell death (apoptosis). Oxidative damage can lead to stunted growth, reduced biomass, and lower crop yields. Plants have evolved intricate antioxidant defense systems to counteract oxidative stress. These include: Enzymes like superoxide dismutase (SOD), catalase (CAT), and various peroxidases scavenge ROS and neutralize their damaging effects. Antioxidant molecules like glutathione, ascorbic acid (vitamin C), C60 fullerene, and carotenoids directly neutralize ROS. Developing plant varieties with gene expression focused on enhanced antioxidant capacity and stress tolerance is crucial. Optimizing irrigation, fertilization, and other management practices can help minimize stress and oxidative damage. Applying antioxidant compounds or elicitors can help plants cope with oxidative stress. Introducing genes for enhanced antioxidant enzymes or stress-related proteins over generations. Phytohormones, also known as plant hormones, are a group of naturally occurring organic compounds that regulate plant growth, development, and various physiological processes. The five major classes of phytohormones are: auxins, gibberellins, cytokinins, ethylene, and abscisic acid. In addition to these, other phytohormones like brassinosteroids, jasmonates, and salicylates also play significant roles. Here's a breakdown of the key phytohormones: Auxins: Primarily involved in cell elongation, root initiation, and apical dominance. Gibberellins: Promote stem elongation, seed germination, and flowering. Cytokinins: Stimulate cell division and differentiation, and delay leaf senescence. Ethylene: Regulates fruit ripening, leaf abscission, and senescence. Abscisic acid (ABA): Plays a role in seed dormancy, stomatal closure, and stress responses. Brassinosteroids: Involved in cell elongation, division, and stress responses. Jasmonates: Regulate plant defense against pathogens and herbivores, as well as other processes. Salicylic acid: Plays a role in plant defense against pathogens. 1. Red and Far-Red Light (Phytochromes): Red light: Primarily activates the phytochrome system, converting it to its active form (Pfr), which promotes processes like stem elongation and flowering. Far-red light: Inhibits the phytochrome system by converting the active Pfr form back to the inactive Pr form. This can trigger shade avoidance responses and inhibit germination. Phytohormones: Red and far-red light regulate phytohormones like auxin and gibberellins, which are involved in stem elongation and other growth processes. 2. Blue Light (Cryptochromes and Phototropins): Blue light: Activates cryptochromes and phototropins, which are involved in various processes like stomatal opening, seedling de-etiolation, and phototropism (growth towards light). Phytohormones: Blue light affects auxin levels, influencing stem growth, and also impacts other phytohormones involved in these processes. Example: Blue light can promote vegetative growth and can interact with red light to promote flowering. 3. UV-B Light (UV-B Receptors): UV-B light: Perceived by UVR8 receptors, it can affect plant growth and development and has roles in stress responses, like UV protection. Phytohormones: UV-B light can influence phytohormones involved in stress responses, potentially affecting growth and development. 4. Other Colors: Green light: Plants are generally less sensitive to green light, as chlorophyll reflects it. Other wavelengths: While less studied, other wavelengths can also influence plant growth and development through interactions with different photoreceptors and phytohormones. Key Points: Cross-Signaling: Plants often experience a mix of light wavelengths, leading to complex interactions between different photoreceptors and phytohormones. Species Variability: The precise effects of light color on phytohormones can vary between different plant species. Hormonal Interactions: Phytohormones don't act in isolation; their interactions and interplay with other phytohormones and environmental signals are critical for plant responses. The spectral ratio of light (the composition of different colors of light) significantly influences a plant's hormonal balance. Different wavelengths of light are perceived by specific photoreceptors in plants, which in turn regulate the production and activity of various plant hormones (phytohormones). These hormones then control a wide range of developmental processes.

Beginning of week.. Mandarin Cookies seems to be a little ahead.. I've been watering till runoff every 2 days.. Seems like I could even go 3 days in between with better results.. More oxygen to the roots.. And I just read on GWE website that overwatering can cause seedling leaves to be kinda.. Wavy 🌊 ... I always just shrugged it off.. But I would also get algae on the top of the medium.. Always just shrugged it off.. So wtf.. How do people use frequent fergigation?!?.. 6 times a day?!? That's insane.. Maybe in like 20% coco 80% perlite or some shit.. That's just crazy to me tho.. This run, I'm gonna do the best I can to make everything as perfect as possible.. I have been testing the runoff.. I water till I get alot of runoff too.. Like 1L of runoff.. So when I test it, The TDS is coming out great.. Just where I need them to be.. Infact they are both hovering about 20 PPM from eachother.. Awesome.. But the pH has been going in a 6.3.. But coming out at 6.0 and 5.9.. This is reused coco.. Mixed in with some coco/perlite I premixed a few month before.. But never been used.. So my goal is to get the runoff pH the same as it goes in.. Sometimes I have to run water at 6.5 pH just to get it to bump up a little.. So I may have to do that. It's still in a good range for the ladies.. And it should help bring the pH inside the medium up as well.. And hopfully STAY where I need it at.. But as for now.. I am cutting out the Floralicious Plus.. The MYCO+ has all the same shit.. So I am going to use the MYCO+ for veg and Floralicious Plus in flower.. Makes better sense to me.. But yeah.. These girls already have a different branch and leaf structure that Ive been seeing lately.. They are beautiful! Lol.. Oh yeah.. And I have also lowered the light down to 26" from the ladies.. Keeping it at 25% power.. They weren't stretching too much as far as I could tell.. I'm wanting them to grow into the light about 18" - 20" still keeping the power at 25%.. See how that works out.. I'm trying to avoid using 50% power until flower for now.. To help keep the heat down.. This light doesn't get very hot.. But the warmth it does give off and the size of it does kinda help the tent stay a little warmer than my smaller lights did in my 2x2 tent.. It was eaiser to control the heat I guess.. Plus I could probably upgrade to a 6 inch exhaust fan while running a carbon filter.. But I am very excited to see what these girls do! Mid week.. Runoff pH is still a little fucked off. This morning I ran water pH'd to 6.5 and the Mandarin Cookies runoff came out a 6.3.. But the ETHOS Cookies runoff came out at 5.8 still.. What the eff.. The TDS is good.. Going in and coming out.. Not sure wtf to do at this point.. Maybe just keep doing what I been doing.. But the growth on these girls is insane.. I cant wait till next week when the growth explosions happen! They are both already spitting out some nice, promising branches. I got a cheap PAR meter coming in tomorrow.. I hope it works as well as the $500 meters.. But these plants are looking good... for now.. Almost end of week... My PAR meter came in!! Hells yeah! So my light gets about 200 - 250 PPFD at 20 inches on 25% power.. This should be perfect for now.. As for the pH issue.. Ugh.. I'm gonna just have to run some 7.0 thru the medium or something.. So frustrating.. The Mandarin Cookies is showing some slight pH fluctuation spots on the lowest leaves.. I also removed the first set of leaves and branches.. They were just waaay too tiny.. Now she doesn't have to waste energy on them.. As for the ETHOS Cookies.. She's showing alot less pH issues on her leaves.. Some.. But kinda hard to notice.. This is really frustrating.. May ask a question for this grow... End of week.. The Mandarin Cookies seems to be getting the wavy shit.. Ugh.. Just the very bottom leaves.. But they are also beginning to yellow in spots.. I think I need to up the nutes a bit.. They are already beginning their growth explosion! I love this part.. Everyday you can notice alot of growth.. And eventually, you can sprout 1 set of leaves a day! The branches are sprouting out quite a bit as well!.. Its hard to not water every day, but every 3 days.. I'm gonna have to go to watering every other day, I guess.. I can already see roots coming out the bottom of the pots.. Wow.. I may use some Hydroguard for a few weeks.. Just to help the roots even more.. The ones I see coming out the bottom of their pot are already MASSIVE and WHITER than white!!! I think this MYCO+ stuff really does some magical things with these roots! I just watched a detailed video on how myco (not even gonna try to spell it) spouts its own root.. Which finds the nearest plant root and basically takes root inside the plant root.. Which then spouts out its own root system and is able to get nutrients over 700% or 700× better than without mycorhizae.. Crazy.. And it even works in hydroponics.. Somehow.. Idk how.. Cuz I would think you wash away the myco with each water change.. Maybe not.. Again.. Idk.. But yeah.. Crazy shit.. Anyways.. Gonna bump up the nutes a bit and water every other day (water, feed, water, feed, etc.)... On to the next!...

everything changed on week 4 grow tent and cob led came to show how a good light is important. from now til last 2 weeks, only indoor growing goodbye CFL's, you worked well. + LST and ferts (2ml + 0.25) Defoliation started Removed branches from 1st node