In week 7 the 12 plants have filled out the space inside the HOMEBOX grow-tent very nicely and therefore its time to switch to flowering. I change the timer, which I put infront of the supply of my SANlight EVO4-120 LEDs, to 12/12 hours of light/darkness. This will induce the flowering of my babies and they can start to develop buds. The BIO NOVA nutrients work very well, which can be seen in the nice healthy green color of the plants. I follow the SOIL-CULTIVATION chart from the BIO NOVA website, but use only half the recommended dose, because my tap-water already has a very high EC-value of 0,8 when it comes out of the faucet. Since I have used REGULAR seeds for THE PURPS from BC-BUD-DEPOT, I have to check for males on a regular basis. Two plants show clear male pollen-sacks already now (see above in video) and have to be culled right away. I cut the plants off at the main stem right above the soil and take away the plants and throw them into the trash right away. This way I make sure NO pollen can mature inside the male pollen-sacks and be released later and inseminate my babies on accident. In the places of the male PURPS plants, I put a MAC and KK-plant into the AUTOPOT-system, so all 12 placed are filled again. Now its time to wait until the first flowers start to appear. 👍😎

Week was fine, I was a little busy again, made just one feed and one watering with no nuts and put de ScrOG ON in the middle of the week (DAY 09). So thats it, sorry about my minimalist description lol

Coming into true week 7. The girls are really impressing me. The buds are stacking nicely. The bloody skunk still hasn't flowered yet she look ready thou. The dark devil is really really showing off she's starting to get that purple color coming in. The leaves are starting to get crystals. The critical mass and ak is showing off and the quarter pounder is getting feathery. Started to feed sugar water to the girls in between feedings.

This was a real fun strain !! Definitely do it over and over again ! Thank you Fastbuds!! I’m not sure of the weight yet ,I have them hanging low an slow for 12- 14 days to try then will be trim , cure , the fun stuff!✌️Peace, love, and Positive Vibes to y’all cheers 🔥😤💨💨💨💨🤙 I will be letting know the final weight soon as it’s done drying!

another resin monster from seedstockers, with a very special scent, full of flavors! grinded it smelled like peppermint, and vaped it has a great sweet creamy taste!

Since this is my first time around, before getting started, I took a week to finetune my freshly built setup. Took me a couple of days to get the parameters in order, mostly battling high humidity due to wet soil straight out of the bags. (Plagron Promix) At the beginning of this week i first put the pots in the tent (actually a 4 by 5) and started feeding the soil the myco alraidy. Figured it could be benificial. Them being autoflowers, I planted the seeds in the original pots and covered them with solocups. Watering mostly around the solocups multiple time per day wit a pressure dispenser. I took about 72 hours for the seeds to start germinating. Kept Par levels on the high side (350 and up day by day to 480 in the last days of week 1, probably less to the plants themselves because of the solo cups) thinking the strong genetics could handle it. All the while checking for signs of to much of it. That didn't occur, even after taking of the cups a day or two after germination. Nice as I am, I did not take any pictures, this week! But! some footage from the room where it all happens :)

04/12: final week for these girls have harvested and hung and will likely take them down in 5 to 6 days - looking good large and they smell great. flushed for final week.

Almost skipped a week. So this is the 4th week of 12/12 lighting. Not much to see, alot of stretch and building is bud sites. You can find my YouTube channel at "Ben Chasin' Big Budz"... Thanks for stopping by.

-Strain: Purple Lemonade - Fast Buds -Tent: 5x5 Gorilla Grow Tent -Lights: Budget LED Grow Lights 2 x 250 Watt LED Full Spec/Red Spec mixed boards -Light Cycle: 18/6 -Soil: Fox Farm -Air Circulation: AC Infinity Cloudline T6 Inline Duct Fan WECLOME BACK GROWMIES! Week 10 here with our PURPLE LEMONADE by Fast Buds! January 29, 2020 (DAY 67) - Hey there growmies we can clearly see the big bud getting to work, they are thickening out well and colour and smell is phenomenal. they are such hungry beast i love seeing the daily change!

These have been growing kind of slowly but I got the temps up a little this week by adding some extra light and am getting vpd dialed in. These will only be in this tent for a few more days I am just starting to harvest the main tent so once that is done they will be moved to the Gorilla Grow Tent and put under the new Growlightscience LEDs so we can see how the perform full cycle. The autos will have to get moved back into this tent once I flip the main tent but the photos will prob need a few weeks of veg before that happens. Been doing foliars with the Growzyme from greenbuzz as well before lights out every other night which seems to make them happy. I think theyll take off over the next couple weeks.

I've brought the PPM down again and kept the pH at 5.7-5.8, plant looks great first grow so very happy, Alot of Trichomes and don't know if I should be getting ready to flush and harvest, buds still getting fatter and she's still thirsty and drinking water but a lot of amber pistils and not sure if the crystals are clear or Milky but plant looks Great, just unsure when to harvest, I've reduced nutes a little more and calyxs still fattening up, gonna hopefully start flushing at end of this week for about 2-3 days in my 4gallon bucket

Starting week 9 She is huge that's why we added extra LST to her big main stem so she could have support and hopefully gets more yield! Day 57 She is doing very good Full of trichomes Cant wait to taste it Day 58 Going hard on nutes 1900ppm Then lots of light Soon I'll be showing you pics of progress Also she's 65cm or more since she's bended Day 59 She's even better No nutrient burnt Everything is Good; Continues to grow 20/4 schedule Day 60 Hope you like the video Day 61.62.63. Sorry didn't have the time to take pics or bids but overall she's good Defoliate a lil bit here and there yellow leaves and she's got more Buds around and finally fattening up I will show you next week Rh 60/70% Was rainy outside for couple days Temp hot 28/30 night and day was 32 Thank God we've got AC....

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

At day 105 from seed, 59 days since the switch to 12-12, she is looking fine to me. I estimate that she'll be ready in 21 days from now but we'll see. She smells great, like sweet citrus and skunk, but not strongly. Not much to report.

Day 50 (2020-06-28): Start of a new week, otherwise nothing new to report! Day 51 (2020-06-29): G14 buds are finally starting to fill out a bit. CBD Crack is looking and smelling great. Day 52 (2020-06-30): Feeding today at 5.8 PH, increased nutes to 75% of recommended amount. Day 53 (2020-07-01): Hmm, looks like I will need to go back to 50% on nutes, some tip burn showing up in the G14. Day 54 (2020-07-02): Feeding today back to 50% flowering dose at 5.8 PH. Day 55 (2020-07-03): Nothing new to report. Day 56 (2020-07-04): G14 buds continue to fill out. Waiting one more day to water again.

En esta 7ma semana de floracion, aparecen tonos purpuras, en algunos cogollos. Aroma afrutado..dulce.. según el banco son 60 días de floracion, asique ya falta menos.😅😅

Larry und ak wachsen gut, die Autos unterscheiden sich etwas in der Wuchsgeschwindigkeit, obwohl gleicher Boden, Wasser zu und genetik 🤷

First week of flowering out the way all plants seem nice and healthy, there has been big improvements with the 3 tropicana and 2 mimosa what i had stunted over the past 7 days havent half shot up in size and looking nice plants now cant wait to get the next couple of weeks out the way and start to see these ladies fatten up

Ciao a tutti, eccoci di nuovo, sono passati 8 giorni dall'ultimo aggiornamento. oggi siamo arrivati al giorno 40 di fioritura, i fiori sono raddoppiati di dimensioni e sono gia duri come delle pepite che si riempiono di resina giorno dopo giorno aromatizzando tutto il locale di agrumi. Negli scorsi giorni ho avuto un problema di sovrafertilizzazione, dopo una mia prima analisi penso sia un accumulo di nutrienti immobili contenuti nei concimi AN che ho aggiunto alla mia solita fertilizzazione dato che volevo azzardare e vedere se ci fossero dei miglioramenti. Era dall'ultimo post che le piante iniziavano a mostrare segni di una concimazione troppo sostenuta, nella vasca l'EC era 2.4 e a partire dal giorno 35 dopo ogni 24 ore avevo un aumento dell'EC di 0.3-0.4, cosa che regolavo aggiungendo acqua riportandolo ad un valore di 2.4 e aumentando il PH a 6 per vedere se le piante riuscissero a metabolizzare meglio i nutrienti in eccesso, pensando che le piante lo avessero sopportato dato che le conoscevo e sapevo che potevano mangiare tanto tanto. ERRORE ***** il giorno 39 sono intervenuto cambiando la vasca e mettendo solo acqua con PH=5.8 che cambierò giornalmente almeno fino al giorno 41. quando poi tornero ad aggiungere i concimi ma ad una dose inferiore. per il momento posso dire che l'aggiunta dei concimi AN non ha avuto gli effetti desiderati sulla dimensione dei fiori. Quantità e qualità della resina e dei suoi terpeni non posso notare alcuna differenza dato che attualmente le temperature sono relativamente basse e preservano bene tutti i terpeni motivo a cui attribuisco il loro grande profumo che come detto è inebrianti, adoro chiudere gli occhi e annusare le cime PURA AROMATERPIA :P Vi direi addirittura per il momento di aver esagerato con i prodotti e ho pure speso soldi inutilmente creandomi un problema di concimazione