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I was still dealing with lockout problems until the end of this week. I flushed everything with pH'ed water and after that, gave her 3L of 1ml/L nutrient solution to compensate the loss. We went from 5.9 to 6.3 soil pH and as you can see in the pictures, it stabilized. I am now very cautious of when and how I water and feed. I built some legs from ABS tubing for the elevated tray that helps when I want to empty the saucer. The light is at 70cm, 80% power for 650PPFD. I might invest in a CO2 reader to know if I could give her more. I have to adjust the power and distance of the light to get the adequate room temperature. I'm aiming for the highest difference between day and night. 2 more weeks of veg and depending on the size, I'll decide to switch or not.
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@Jsammy09
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Not a lot happened last week, just monitoring, feeding, and keeping everything in check while the girls did their thing. I did switch over to my finishing nutrients and have cut out calmag according to feeding chart I have been following. I think we are gettting pretty close to harvest though! The trichomes are starting to get a little milky. I am going to wait until about 30% amber to harvest though. I am getting super excited to finish this one and start my next run! 9/2 - The girls have been doing great and are starting to pack on the size and frost nicely! Nothing to do to them really except monitor and keep checking and making sure everything is running at an optimal level. The closer it gets I start to get a little nervous for the dry. I am prepared and have a plan, just hopefully I can get my dry set up as dialed in as I was able to get my grow tent. I will try to post more updates this week. Last week I had company from out of town, so it was difficult to get around to it. 9/5- Just continuing to monitor and check the trichomes, once about 25-30% turn amber I will be harvesting! They are starting to get pretty cloudy right now. When I did the res change yesterday, I switched to just root drip and full tilt and have started flushing, hopefully not too early, but im following my feeding chart. As always tips and recommendations always welcomed and appreciated! Thanks for checking out my diary!
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Hey guys sorry about lack of update been real busy, but the grow has finally come to a end and the star of the show was the blue gelato by a clear distance . I will show rest of strains next week keep a eye out. This blue gelato is bursting with blueberry and cake pheno really nice and strong buzz highly recommended and will surely be keeping this girl around for a few more runs
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@GroloCup
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I use a 70/30 solution of H2O2 and tap water inside a small capsule, allowing the seed to soak for 24 hrs, and she was ready for her birthday, already showing a tap root in that time span... I then place the seed into a damp paper towel to allow the tap root to extend a little further out in preparation for the transplant. I'll start her in a small grow bag filled with my amended Pro Mix seed starter blend, hopefully making a strong seedling for my first AutoPot run. This is for their grow off, which I found on their Discord server, but they are very active on FB and IG... Their catalog of offerings are definitely connoisseur genetics, most importantly, Made in the USA! 🇺🇲
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@Reaper
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Start of week 3 flowering i have to push this plant in a closet dring the 12h darkness because im still growing autos right now
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@blaze_fpv
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Start of Week 3 flower | cut only 2-3 leaves blocking light | stretch is done End of Week 3 flower l gave them another light defoliation to have the whole canopy reaching light | buds really start to form rapidly | smell is also really nice Currently running : 28° C at 50% rlf 630 - 750 ppfd 1200ppm CO2
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Hello Growers and Tokers! 👋 👩‍🌾 🧑‍🌾.🔥💨 Great second week of flower. She’s getting a nice flower stretch. Info and photos were taken 12 days into flower. Beginning of the week was 50cm and is now at 62cm tall. That's 12cm in one week!! 👏👏👏 Feeding 1,5L each, every other day. Will be increasing as they ask for more. How do they ask for more? When feeding if the soil is drier than normal I give a 150-200ml increment of water. I do that until they stop feeding so much then i just maintain that amount. I start reducing if it takes longer to dry. That works good for me. The old finger in the dirt trick. 👍 Nothing like knowing exactly what your ladies need first hand. She’s looking good and healthy. Nice lime green color going.. Plenty of new growth every where. Smell is starting to be a little noticeable but nothing stinky yet. There’s a few main colas that are standing out and stacking nicely. Haven’t done any work on her since the 12/12 defoliation. When 21 days passes I’ll give her a nice defoliation and taking away unwanted under growth. Very happy with how she turned out. She struggled at first but now she’s looking gorgeous. 😍😍 Stay tuned to see her progress. If you like what you see, check out the other strains in the tent. Take care and stay safe! 😃
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Aqui traemos la ultima semana de esta maravillosa Amnesia Haze Automatic de Royal Queen Seeds 🔥🔥 Una autentica bomba 💣en todos los sentidos Un cuidado realmente sencillo, donde agradece un clima intermedio y una temperatura suave. La producción es bastante buena para ser una auto y nada que envidiar a otras variedades. El olor es bastante potente y rico 😋🤤👌 Lo único que podría haber estado mejor es la produccion de tricomas, que a pesar de no estar nada mal, siendo sincero esperaba mas pegamento en las flores 💐🤷 Despues de un buen lavado de raices, vamos a dejarla durante esta semana libre de nutrientes para pronunciar mas su sabor natural y eliminar los restos de químicos y asi tener una fumada mas suave 😊🔥💯 BUENOS HUMOS 🚬😉
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Sep 21: fall is here with 12 h of darkness and hopefully she picks up the flowering pace while the weather and sunlight are still okay. Sep 27: this sativa pheno is progressing but it is a bit too slow for this area. If I had forced it with 12 h darkness in mid-July it would have worked, but instead I just phyto-forced with a 730 nm far red light starting about Aug 1. The red light is enough for the indica type plants to finish in time here, but it doesn’t seem to be enough for the sativas. Whatevs, I have more than enough and this will all be going for hash anyway. Sativas can be grown here but they need to be forced by light deprivation in July and not just phyto-forced starting in August. Sep 29: two week forecast is suddenly much better so she’s still got a chance to finish properly. Fingers crossed. It hit 0 C here last night and daytime high of only 8-9C so we’re mostly done for the season.
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I'm 90% sure this one is in her finishing week here. More amber trichromes are coming in daily. I don't wanna push her too far like last time because this strain turned pure amber and kinda lost some crystaly luster during the curing process. My light timer, grow tent, and light upgrades really made a big difference in bud development compared to my last run with Runtz basically leading to bigger more frostier buds. I'm dropping temps lower at night. I give it a couple liters a day to keep the top soil moist. Flushed water comes out 6.8 ish. My CO2 exhale bag was the biggest flop as it was expired and did not activate. I plan on 48 hours darkness before harvest starting today: the day of the eclipse. With the new moon we have a high pressure system that is peaking at night around 1028 dB. Water should be pushed up into the plant from roots. Coupled with lights out....all theoretical witch craft. I have a small 2x2 dark tent pictured which needs to have AC bring in cold fresh air from outside. If no fresh air added the tent gets humid and stagnant after a while. The darkness period is bringing out that strong and sweet 'medicinal' smell. If you ever tried weed labeled medicinal youd have an idea of what I mean. I guess thats the orange bud/chemo lineage traits. Before lights off the smell was more towards yeast fermentation smell and not soo sweet.
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@Roberts
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Melon Gum is doing good. She has reached the solution. Ot looks like it is s bit string for her. She should grow into it very fast. Everything is looking good. Thank you Pure Instinto, Spider Farmer, and Athena. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g.
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You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.
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Added some bamboo for support of some of the heavier bud laden stems, still addressing the tip burn, think its mostly due to under-watering, working on that balance, not too certain exactly how far I am from harvest, thinking maybe a month?
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Eine gute Spätsommerwoche geht zu Ende und die nächste kündigt sich an 👍 milde Temperaturen und viel Sonnenschein perfekt zum Beginn der Blüte. Larry und Lemon sind etwas weiter, AK und Banana starten erst. Jeden Tag wird gegossen. Pro Pflanze 1,5 bis 2 l je nach Größe. Es läuft gut 👍 bis nächste Woche ✌️
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@Island
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Week 8 - Dead line is coming, starting week 8 of flowering. The routine is maintained, feeding only with water. The pistils take on an orange color and some leaves change color.