Ratio of Terraquatica for auto’s in dwc

600-750 ppm (calculated from labels, not some EC conversion and not including tap water solutes) A well balanced diet in that range will work well for both photoperiod and autoflowers. I see no difference in either when i provide a similar formula to each. I think this urban myth that autos are pickier is no different than how photoperiods act when they enter flower... need to be a bit more precise meeting needs to avoid symptoms.. autoflowers are in flower before you can see it with your eye... within 2-3 weeks above ground they are in flower phase unless it's one of those "XXL" phenos or you do something to delay flower with stress. mature vege: N 120-130 P 40-60 K 180-200 Ca 100+ Mg 75ish S 100ish That's only 615 - 645 ppm. Your mileage will vary due to local variables, but if you start somewhere near these suggestions, it'll be a quick learning curve to adjust from there. My 'germ' week in any of my 3 newer diaries shows a picture of my PPM breakdown. It's not my formula, but i have adjusted it from instructions, slightly, based on what i saw over time. Cropsalt, megacrop, masterblend, Jacks (j.r. peters), southern Ag and others all use a similar ratio and overall concentration. It's not by accident. The work behind it is 10x more sophisticated than the average marijuana brand concoction which is often only based on anecdote, like 'the lucas formula' or whatever... which also happens to closely resemble this formula with some small exceptions. Again, no accident that happened. The guy just needlessly re-invented the wheel and more often these esoteric formulas you find out there only works well for a small portion of phenos seed to harvest (some shifts for flower phase). you can see i keep everything except N the same from seed to harvest (even more so this year than in the past incorporating 0-12-26 product). rarely have symptoms, plants are very healthy even into late flower -- the plants that do show some symptoms are minimal and slow progression. I have never feared running as many strains as i want off of one reservoir... simply not a problem with a good formula. This is based on existing knowledge - not 'my' formula, i take no credit for that portion. But, reality is that i never worry about fertilization methods... people that have constant problems need to look at their own behaviour instead of blaming the plant. Hydro and soilless are the same fundamentals in this regard. It's not about providing a ratio at what the plant uses. It's about being easily available (each element of nutrition's concentration) and not inhibiting each other (ratio). It is not the ratio in which it will be used in the plant, despite what common sense might tell you. This is due to various dynamics like 'active transport' taking place - which is also a cause of pH drift due to uneven use of nutes over time -- mitigated by change of reservoir occasionally in hydro or 10% runoff takes care of it in soilless. This is the super power of soilless/hydro -- consistently keeping an optimal ratio and concentration around the roots. You may need a slight shift as you head into flower... How you handle vege phase can impact what sort of shift you need, too, so it's not a one-size-fits-all unless you do exactly the same as another person, which is unlikely. I drop N from 120-130 to 80 by mid flower or even early flower -- depends on how dark the leaves are and if any such progression is occuring... The plant will tell you when to deviate from SOP. the whole 1 part this or that or dosage of 1 product or another is too esoteric - need specific experience with those products. That's not intuitive and not an apples to apples comparison or translation with other gardens. if you learn to recognize the indidivual ppms and ratios, that makes changing products or trying new things extremely easy with limited learning curve adjustments. I'm not learnign your products on the fly, but the ppms and ratio are the cause to the effect -- in a very consistent way relative to soilless/hydro growing -- soil has more ifs and maybes to account for in regard to ingredients and how those nutrients are delivered. that is typically why soil is better off in a different pH range or oyu see higher levels of N provided, because half of it at any 1 moment is not plant available. There are free apps that can calculate PPM, so no reason to memorize the math. Some even allow you to work backward from a targeted ppm and will calculate dosage of your products to reach those targets. there is a website or two that can calculate it too. If using concentrated liquid nutes, need to pay attention to specific gravity, too (kg per Liter modifier needed for PPM) if you go soilless/hydro, this stuff sounds complicated, but it's near-zero effort to track. the apps do the work.. you just take notes and keep track of how you fed so you can intelligently adjust based on results over time... fertilization is a culmination of every decision you made, not just what you dumped into the pot the last week or 2.

Use the feed chat like suggested below. Dilute down to your desired EC if its to strong.

Making it too easy now. Joking lol... Here you go... Terra Aquatica https://www.terraaquatica.com PDF TriPart.pdf

I know this might sound insulting but in my opinion it's best to find what works for you, it's all there online, the manufacturer will have recommended amounts so use that as a base line to a good way to go but half it or even more. I say this only as this is a learning curve you will have to get past anyway so you might aswel do it now.. Good luck