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Perfectt
Perfecttstarted grow question 13d ago
I think im getting over the nute burn.she 13 days old today.the node spacing is close They are rt on top of each other.Not including the the cotyledon leaves i have 4 sets of leaves with one coming in.is it safe at this point to cut the top 2 fan leaves to give light to middle
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John_Kramer
John_Krameranswered grow question 8d ago
as HandsomeTerpz said this IS N excess and K lock - flush a feed anew (recover in 1 week) - keep watering (could be more then 1 week)
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HandsomeTerpz
HandsomeTerpzanswered grow question 10d ago
Looking at your seedling: the leaves are dark green, a bit clawed downward, and with slightly burned tips. That usually points to a nitrogen excess (too much N) or a light nutrient burn. The very young plant doesn’t need much food yet, the soil already has enough. Too much nitrogen makes the leaves dark and clawed. Burnt tips are the first sign of overfertilization. What you can do: For now, just water with plain pH-corrected water (no extra nutrients). Let the seedling settle; it should even out as it grows. If it worsens, check your soil/fertilizer strength and adjust. The plant is still small and looks overall healthy so don’t stress, just ease off on nutrients a bit.
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Ultraviolet
Ultravioletanswered grow question 12d ago
Put more effort intop your diary, you will get better effort in your answers.
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Ultraviolet
Ultravioletanswered grow question 12d ago
Real Growers Grow Dots utilizes a blend of nitrogen sources. Nitrate is readily available, but the rate of ammoniacal nitrogen conversion is linked to the current pH level within the medium, and microorganisms go to work. If Ph was hovering closer to 7+ the rate of release could potentially be releasing too much at once for the little seedling on top of the existing nitrates. Interesting reading the details for grow dots, specifically programmed to release just enough ferts for 4 weeks of veg and then 8 weeks of bloom, Anything that programs release based on a timeframe means your levels of growth will have to match what is being released, or ratios within the soil will become skewed along with eventual high EC. High EC = High Salinity, the salt content of a medium (like soil), directly impacts directional water flow. Water will always want to flow in the direction of higher Saltiness. gluck.
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m0use
m0useanswered grow question 12d ago
I think your right. to much feed. no cutting. your not in high school anymore.
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GreenHerbElements
GreenHerbElementsanswered grow question 12d ago
Hi, würde bei einer autoflower nichts weg schneiden. Grade da sie es schon am Anfang schwer hatte und schneiden zusätzlichen Stress verursacht. Lieber weiter gut pflegen und in 1-2 Wochen falls Nötig die Äste etwas biegen für mehr Licht (LST). Viel Glück beim grow
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00110001001001111O
00110001001001111Oanswered grow question 13d ago
Heh, i misread that, but otherwise the other info was useful to keep.. no, don't take off the top 2 leaves. Don't take off any leaves. The leaves in the middle project out on a different axis, so even if it did get more light on them it's still a net negative. fewer leaves will make it even more sensitive to whatever is causing the current toxicity in the plant. Removing leaves reduces transpiration and respiration. Less light absorption is likely reduced, too, given how young/small the plant is still. don't look for reasons to prune leaves off... It is rarely a net-positive behaviour... lots of bro science promotes it but it's nonsense.
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00110001001001111O
00110001001001111Oanswered grow question 13d ago
if node spacing is too tight, reduce lighta bit -- because of the rough start, you may need to get light intensity back up to what you had... resulting node spacing on new growth is your guide. it will to a lesser effect space out below, but the new growth will reflect effects of new light intensity better. The tight growth will mostly stay tight, so don't expect too much change there, but will get some breathing room. The plant is quite overfed, still.. not much you can do about it if it's coming from the soil... stick to good watering habits and it should toughen up once it's larger and can handle the hot soil. I would not top it at this size (future reference). It wouldn't really do anything functional at this point. Since it is an auto and already less than idea circumstances, i'd hold off on experiementing topping autoflowers until the next grow. But, it is your plant and the difference in yield will probably be only slightly less. It probably won't grow large enough to warrant topping. Autos go into flower about 2 weeks after sprouting.. you get another 4-5 weeks of vege growth beyond that and it stops. I bet you see preflowers by 20-25 days above ground. If not, you know you got more time than i estimated. best thing to do is keep trying... take note of the power of light you used early on and make sure you adjust that on the next grow.. look at problems, realized the cause is often long before you see it, so adjust your early behaviour and it'll get easier each time. Consider photoperiods. Gives more room for error... you can always vege a bit longer to fix things like this. Autoflowers are not 'faster'. it takes just as long to flower as a photoperiod that was given the same amount of vege time. similar genetic variety on that.. 7-12 weeks is possible... to compare apples to apples the 12/12 switch to flower for photos is equivalent to 7-10 days before you see developed preflowers on an autoflower. An autoflower is a great plant outdoors offseason. otherwise it just complicates things and weakens the genetics a bit.. ruderalis is a weak plant.
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Lotopharg
Lotopharganswered grow question 13d ago
She still looks a bit stressed, netter wait another week to not Stunt the growth, or ist the time running away? Is she an Auto? If not, let her recover another week, and than start to train/top/fin/softtop/fold/whatever etc.
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