as long as you don't go nuts with temps or RH, focus on VPD. The 1.5 is probably better for the plant.
Is this an atmospheric temp reading? If so, subtract 3-4F when referencing VPD. Leaf temps are slightly cooler due to evaporation taking place (evaporation is an endothermic reaction = absorbs heat from environment). So your VPD wasn't as high as you thought. 1.5 is about as high as you want to go.
At some point closer to 2 kPa your plant will have problems... i'm not sure exactly where this threshold is and depending on severity may not be an immediate reaction, but i've seen plants slow down incredibly when the vpd rises too high for too long.
There are other considerations and whether one fact should be weighted more heavily than another is not something you can see with the naked eye. If you can find reputable sources with non-anecdotal information on it that would help if you care to go down that rabbit hole. e.g. photosynthesis is best at 25c - i think this goes up to 30c if you supplement CO2? this stuff is reference material you can google for a more precise target. the reference is here is purely conceptual for the rhetorical question: How much of a drop in temperature or rise in temp outweighs targetting a more optimal VPD? this sort of question is way too complicated to answer with only anecdotal experience.
so, if you don't tightly control the environment, don't fret over things that you dont control -- even if by choice due to costs... Adding moisture is cheap. Removing moisture or cooling the air is expensive. I grow only during certain seasons so i don't have to control temperature much, but i do have to add loads of moisture to the air... 35watts humidifier vs 900w dehum / 1500w heater is an easy choice.
if you want to control it with lab precisions, 25c with appropriate rh for an appropriate VPD relative to life stage is the way to go. You should look up these values. You'll find some variance in suggestions for VPD.
Otherwise, focus on what you do control... adjust relative to resulting temperatures etc... if you don't control the temp, no reason to get upset about 30c or higher... just have to live with it due to rational choices made about cost of doing so. Even 32c won't kill a plant, but you probably want to invest in a humidifier if RH is too low and resulting VPD is way too high. Raising humidity is the cheapest part of controlling climate.
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https://wiki.bhikku.net/uploads/Main/Photosynthesis-LimitingFactors/Limitingfactorsgraphs.gif -- Image only link from duck duck go search
shows basic shape of the curve for temp/carbon/light.
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https://image.slideserve.com/350963/optimal-photosynthetic-temperatures-l.jpg
Shows how a different species may have different optimal temp. Same shape, though... important detail.
if you can't find exact 'ideal' for marijuana due to lack of research, other flowering, soft-stemmed plants, like tomato, is a good ballpark to go by. I've always tried to stick somehwere near the generic 25c figure... usually 24-27C is my range in winter with lights on.
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The original search:
https://duckduckgo.com/?q=phtosynthesis+temperature+curve&ia=images&iax=images&iai=http%3A%2F%2Fwiki.bhikku.net%2Fuploads%2FMain%2FPhotosynthesis-LimitingFactors%2FLimitingfactorsgraphs.gif