Purple leaf tips with yellow/brown edges

Oh looks a bit high to me. In combination with purple stems on fan leaves this could be the start of a lock-out. Try to lover your ph a little and see if it gets worse or not. If they start curling up it’s most likely from too much light. Good luck 🍀👍 👊

Looks to me like burning, slightly over fed. might need to lower the EC just a tad and or get more runoff. About 15% of the pots volume should do. water in slowly as not to create water paths where it just flows though and does not soak in. Some plants get purple coloration, I find indoors a lot of my plants do. I think its part of the light spectrum/source I use "LED". I have tried dosing with Mg and S as it is said this is a sign of them element lacking but that is not the case. PH is on point for me. others may think its to high, EC does seem a bit high to me, I'd prob knock that down to 1.4-1.6 but If it can handle it then maybe it likes more. CANNA makes good products from my understanding, I have yet to use them myself but heard heat things about them, I do use their substrate coir bricks. a+

Plant uptake nutrients in two ways, passively through flow of water by osmosis or actively through the use of energy (ATP). Generally when we see tips go dark it's a sign that the plant is suffering from osmotic stress. The mineral content (salt within the plant is of higher ec than ec in soil) osmosis is the flow of water in the direction of highest salinity. (Saltiness). So now we know the plant is not passively uptaking calcium and most uptake will now have to switch to active transport. In order for plant to switch and utilize fully to active transport it becomes highly dependant on oxygen to supply root respiration in order to create enough energy to do so. Purple anywhere on stems is linked to Phosphorus, which is strongly linked to oxygen uptake in the range of 6.5-7 if your ph is outside of this range Phosphorus will prefer to bind with iron or something else. Flower is critical time in thay plant will spit far more carbon into the soil, around 40% of all carbon it captures is fed to soil to feed the microorganisms, this will make the medium far more moisture retaining, if topsoil is compressed enough it can create a moisture retaining layer restriciting oxygen. These micros scavenge large amounts on oxygen, leaving the plant possible needing more. As soon as a soil runs out everything will switch from aerobic to anerobic. Nothing good ever comes from a soil thay lacks oxygen.

Yes, definitely. I looked through your diary and in the pictures from two weeks ago you can already see that the plant literally told you "reduce the dose or number of fertilizing"

These are classic burns from excessive fertilizing... as soon as you see that the edges are just starting to turn brown and look burned, the plant is warning you that you have given it a little more food than it needs.. yours showed this a week ago, probably, but you probably didn't pay attention, in the beginning they don't get so burned.. in such situations, you don't feed until the next two waterings, and later you just reduce dose of fertilizer and feed every second or third watering. This is not something that should worry you, at least I wouldn't, throw out the food for the next two waterings and watch how the plant behaves, that way you won't be able to harm it any more, and if there is a defect or something like that, it will continue to spread and show, which you can fix at any time... this is not locking, if it was locking your plants would be on the edge of life and death and they wouldn't look anything like this.

Remember,..... what is showing in the leaves now is a direct reflection of what was happening in the root zone 2-3 weeks ago. Brown tips usually indicate burning from over feeding, but can also indicate a build up of nutrient salts in the substrate due to not getting sufficient run off each and every time you irrigate or feed. Since the plants are getting close to the end of their flowering cycles, there is little you can do to "fix" anything before harvest.....salt build ups are happening from the first feed and take weeks to rise to damaging levels, you can not cure it in 1-2 days. "Flushing" is not something I would recommend, it just releases even more salts and makes things worse. I would suggest reducing the fertilizers slightly and making sure you are getting a decent amount of run off when you are giving plain water. In soil, a schedule of plain water/plain water/fertilizer works well, you should never fertilize every time you water! Some people like doing plain water/fertilizer/plain water/fertilizer, but reduce the strength of the fertilizer if feeding that often. This is not a "lock-out" issue in any way.

remember drain readings are not precise as to what is in the medium. It correlates. If you don't have a baseline of 'normal' when things are going well, and not jsut in short term, then it's not entirely useful data. If it's consistently moving in one direciton that is useful info and something to react to or a reason to constitute substrate differently etc etc. Looks a bit overfed, so i'd dial back that first before doing too much. could be related. Nothinng is getting locked out at 6.7, but overtime if you overefeed one nute too much you can cause lockout. It may take a few days... it may take a month... depends on the degree of overfeeding of that specific nutrient. The truth willout. The balance of what you feed over time will cause symptoms eventually if it is poorly balanced. This is fairly common with marijuana branded stuff in my experience. Some companies are more sociopathic than others when it comes to getting you to buy more of their product than necessary. If their feeding schedule has a ton of dependence on regular flushing, it's probably just to cover up their lack of effort/knowledge, lol. This isn't foie gras. You can't force feed a plant. https://www.cannagardening.com/sites/united_states/files/2024-02/downloads-grow-schedule-terra.pdf one-part fertilizer that clearly isn't well-balanced to use on its own. also, they don't freely give infor about npk values or percentage of other ingredients.. so there's not much to do here but speculate with such a lack of information available from the company. if this is the 'soilless' canna substrate product, it probably comes with a light pre-charge as described but you treat it like soilless in long-term meaning you provide 100% of the nutritional needs when you fertigate. Fertigate every time with 10% runoff and if it's well-balanced you shouldn't run into issues too often. you'll run into some oddball plants occasionally but it should be rare. i'd look up the ratio/levels of nutes in otehr soilless products - cropsalt, jacks 321, megacrop, masterblend, soouthern ag... it's no accident that whne mixed these all have very similar profiles. Also, the pre-charge in promix hp/bx have nearly identical ratios, except for K. these companies are not copying each other.. they are usingn the same base of knowledge, though. It is no coincidence. These products will work better out of the box as instructed than 99% of esoteric marijuana branded stuff. *Trial and error is always necessary even for the stuff that works better as instructed* But, if you can get teh gaurnateed analysis info from your canna terra 1-part fertilizer, that could go a long way to help diagnose what's going on here. It'd probably stand out like a sore thumb. 'Purple' could be from cold temperatures (likely with lights off) or maybe genetics.. . if it's a blue hue in foliage, that could be low P. not sure basedd on description and i don't see it in pictures. Long purple streaks in stems (not petioles!) could be low S, which also can cause some tip 'burn' too. Again, that can be genetics too - the purple in stems or exotic purple pigmentation elsewhere. several different things can cause tip burn - both toxicity and deficiency. So, more info is needed there. If it progresses around the serated tips, i'd look into K levels. how it progresses can help eliminate possibilities. Grab a marijuana leaf symptom chart from a simple google image search The good -- looks pretty slow moving, so the formula can't be off by too much.

Entweder ist es ein Nährstoffbrand oder Zuviel Licht 😅 Ich denke eher bei diesen Ph und EC Werten an Zuviel Dünger (Nährstoffbrand) reduziere dein Schema und Versuch erstmal unter 6,5 PH zu landen!💚

stop using CalMag or cut it in half u're giving it too much so plant got lockout issue

It sounds like your plant is experiencing a nutrient uptake issue, likely tied to slightly high pH and possibly a potassium or magnesium deficiency. The yellowing and browning of the leaf edges at the top of the plant, along with purple shading underneath, are often early signs of potassium deficiency or a magnesium-related issue, especially when new growth is affected. While purple coloration on the stems can be genetic, if it's accompanied by other symptoms like edge burn or slow growth, it could also indicate stress. Your drain EC of 1.8 is on the higher end for soil, and combined with a runoff pH of 6.7, it’s possible that some nutrients, particularly magnesium and potassium, are being locked out. These nutrients are best absorbed closer to a pH of 6.3–6.5. Since you're using the full Canna Terra line along with CalMag, you’ve got the nutrients covered, but slightly lowering your feed pH and ensuring your lights aren’t too intense on the upper canopy could help the plant regain balance. If the symptoms continue to worsen, a slight reduction in nutrient strength and a closer look at environmental factors like temperature and humidity may also be necessary.