Summer heat

31°C in the tent is definitely on the high side, but it’s not the end of the world if you manage it right. At that temperature, photosynthesis becomes less efficient, which can slightly slow growth in veg and reduce bud density in flower. If the heat continues into the flowering stage, you might see some foxtailing or looser bud structure. High temps can also burn off some terpenes, affecting aroma and flavor, and if the plant is already stressed, there's a slight risk of herming, though that's less likely in stable autoflower genetics. You’ve already got the fan on high, which is a great start. Make sure you also have strong internal air movement with an oscillating fan over the canopy to prevent heat pockets. Since temps are high, the plant will be transpiring more, so keep an eye on your watering schedule. Air-Pots dry out quickly, especially in warm conditions. To help cool the root zone, try placing the pot on a ceramic tile or some insulation material to block heat from below. If you're running an 18/6 or 20/4 light cycle, consider shifting the lights-off period to the hottest part of the day (e.g., lights off from noon to 6 p.m.). That alone can drop tent temps by a couple of degrees. At 31°C, ideal relative humidity should be around 60–65% to keep the VPD (vapor pressure deficit) in a safe zone, too dry and your plant will over-transpire, too humid and you risk mold later. If you're looking to help the plant tolerate the heat a bit better, adding a silica supplement (like potassium silicate) can help strengthen cell walls and improve resistance to stress. In terms of yield, you can still get solid results, especially with a 48L pot and a healthy plant. That said, if the heat persists into flowering, expect a slight loss in bud density, perhaps 10–20% compared to ideal temperatures. Still, nothing unfixable. Just stay on top of airflow, watering, and humidity, and you’ll be fine. Please let me know your RH and light timing if you'd like me to calculate your VPD.