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Yellowing of bud sites

Greenys
Greenysstarted grow question 2d ago
PH 5.9 in out 5.9 EC in 2.4 run off 2.6 Temps 27- hum 59% First week of flower and notice this ? I’m at full strength of feed witch is shogun full range, Light in 75% at 400mm away/ lunitik are saying to have 100% at 400mm /600 2.9 Zeus. Any clues ? Iron ? Or?? Cheers
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00110001001001111O
00110001001001111Oanswered grow question 2d ago
600w with 2.9umol/J efficacy... I'd use a meter to set height for best canopy coverge end-to-end without sacrificing overall average (measured at various points from same distance etc). Can even be a klux meter because this is about proportional intensity. This light can cover 21-22 sq ft at 100% power. If you are focusing that light on a smaller area, i'd drop the power in a proportional way or use a higher hanging distance that lowers overall average in proportional way but also gives greater intensity to sides/edges -- the latter choice costs more watts and is a bit more wasteful but would provide the best yield all other factors the same. Your vpd is in a good enough range, so it should be able to handle 37-38 DLI with ambient co2. This is just a good starting point and you use internode development as your guide to adjusting intensity from there. As far as what i see, there's not enough info. Chlorosis in new growth across canopy in flower often comes with p/k boosters. If you blasted it with elevated p/k lately, i'd say that is the cause. "full strength" means different things for nearly all fertilizer instructions. if in soilless/hydro context, a breakdown in elemental ppm per nutrient molecule would help diagnose. overall concentration doesn't tell us much when diagnosing a problem. Though EC looks high, this could be deceving... EC conversion to ppm is imprecise and inaccurate. Some soil ferts read higher because a good portion is not plant available, so what enters the plant is not the "2.4-2.6EC", it is lower. anyway look at a leaf symptom chart and you'll see the various options for chlorosis in new growth... how it progressed is relevant and can discern between causes. tip-in? petiole-out? etc.. is it starting between veins or just a solid trend all over? more than a couple trace elements will catch your eye and that would be rare. in those cases it's more likely ph or nute lockout.
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Selected By The Grower
00110001001001111O
00110001001001111Oanswered grow question 2d ago
forgot to say most important part... plant growth and vigorousness is your guide... no matter what instructions say. instructions and recommendations are just starting points. employ some deductive reasoning based on what you see from there... take notes... refine processes each cycle - not just fertilization.
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John_Kramer
John_Krameranswered grow question 2d ago
- too much EC for 1st week excess: - Ca (if u see soon NP,K,Mg deficiency then that's it) OR - P (not probably but if u fed them in 1 go then yes it could be) I think that's Ca (soon u'll see burnings and canoing ) don't panic just flush it as soon as possible and feed em anew start with 1.2EC and half CalMag at least in half
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Mr_Weeds_Autos
Mr_Weeds_Autosanswered grow question 2d ago
Your plants look generally healthy, but the pale or lime-green new growth you're seeing in the first week of flower could be an early sign of a slight iron deficiency. This usually presents as yellowing on the new growth while older leaves stay dark green, and it's common when there's nutrient antagonism or a buildup from high feeding levels. Your pH is steady at 5.9, which is in the right range for iron uptake, so the issue likely isn’t a pH lockout. However, your EC is on the higher side at 2.4 in and 2.6 out, which suggests you may be slightly overfeeding, and that could be limiting micronutrient availability, including iron. Light intensity could also be a contributing factor. Even though you're running at 75 percent intensity at 400mm, which is within safe limits, some genetics are more sensitive and can show stress early on from light. Since you're in early flower, full-strength bloom feed might be a bit aggressive, especially if your veg feed was already rich. Consider lowering your EC slightly to around 2.0 and monitoring the plants for 3 to 5 days. If you want to increase light to 100 percent as recommended, do so gradually to avoid shocking the plants. If the issue persists, a light foliar application of a chelated iron supplement or a micronutrient formula with iron could help restore balance. Keep a close eye on new growth and adjust gradually. If the tops start greening back up, you'll know you're on the right path.
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