Leaf Problem persists and develops, advice?

NPK+Ca+Mg hunger ur feeding not enought

Inspect at base of leaf or any dead sugar leaves... you'd see fungal growth -- white or grey hairy stuff along stem under buds. Discoloration of the flower around the infection would be obvious, too. Easy to rule out infection. I'd wager something is being overfed.. possibly tox symptoms along with some lockout. Some leavs look a bit too dark and have the intial damage starting along veins (picture 5). If not allowing appropriate dryback between irrigations, could be related to that too. The fact they leaves didn't progress much from 3-5 fingers is also a tell tale sign of a poorly balanced feeding program. luckiliy that's not suprmely important to have decent results. These plants are quite robust. Just look at most diaries and you see beat to shit canopies with okay results. You are far from that. Keep tweaking, and it eventually gets boring. defintely avoid foliar sprays. these are way more often some sort of e-peen to stroke people's egos. It can be a useful tool for an extreme situation, but you shoudl be able to react to any nutrient-related issue long before a foliar spray is necessary. Prolonged use of a foliar spray just gunks of the stomata which impedes transpiration. CO2 intake is far more important. Feed the plant through the roots. as far as disease or pest prevention, if it is indoor, other behaviours can make that stuff rare. The primary concern is what comes with your medium from the store. Otherwise, simply keeping a clean area will be enough. Bti will take care of most larva that may come with soil from store. Preventatitve folair sprays cause more problems than they solve and feeding a plant through foliar sprays is just not wise.

Anaerobic hypoxia, or oxygen deficiency. No one is saying you cannot grow at 60rh%, nearly every guide you see will tell you 60 is optimal for plant growth. Alot of experienced growers run 60% but normally their day/night hvac will be on point. But growing indoors is not the same as outdoors, what's best for rapid plant growth isnt always best for the indoor waterworks. Flowering exudates can contribute to increased moisture retention in the soil, particularly within the rhizosphere (the soil surrounding the roots). As a plant flowers, it releases exudates, including mucilage, which can alter the soil's physical properties. This can lead to increased water-holding capacity and reduced water loss through evaporation. The rhizosphere, the soil zone surrounding plant roots, is a hub of microbial activity where various microorganisms consume and transform organic matter, including releasing oxygen as they respire or participate in other metabolic processes. This consumption can deplete oxygen levels in the medium lea ing nine for the plant. If your not taking precautionary measures the 60rh will spike to 70+ overnight, at 70 rh almost 0 cellular respiration will occur. Daytime is all transpiration, roots pulling water from medium. Nightime is 0 transpiration, and mostly cellular respiration and root respiration too. At 70rh with no heat to assist with evaporation water will not leave the plant/medium efficiently, this effectively cripples the entire plants kerb cycle. In order for the plant to utilize the energy it captures from Daytime photo it needs to process that energy overnight as part of cellular respiration. If that is crippled in any way or hindered by high rh, then plant cant get done what needs done. Moisture builds and builds. Aerobic switches to anerobic once oxygen is low. This causes issues, slowly creeping in over time. I had this problem for many many years till I figured it out. Get your nights down to 40%-50% , what goes in must come out in timely fashion. As flowering progresses, watering habits must change also, continuing to blanket the same amount of water the the plant always got will lead to eventual waterlogg soil and as the dynamics change, anerobic hypoxia will take hold. Slowly. Your e.c is right on the edge of the limit 1.8 I noticed. Don't let it peak over 2.0.

Hi ich bin mir nicht sicher ob das Botrytis ist, es passiert normalerweise in der Blüte und verbreitet sich danach auf den rest der Pflanze aber bei dir sieht es nach etwas anderem aus. Die Blattseptoria sieht so ähnlich aus und der Phosphor Mangel auch. Ich würde nichts spritzen denn dadurch kann es schon sein das Feuchtigkeit in die Buds Kommt und dort dann wirklich Schimmel Bilden. lieber erstmal Blätter entfernen und weiter beobachten.

Hi, Bud rot (botrytis is one of many) normally happens inside your bud along the main stalk and if it kills leaves it usually is because the petiole has rotted from the inside. Your petioles look fine to me, it doesn't rule it out, but I would imagine it's something else. Do not spray anything on your plants after they are 2, max 3 weeks into flower. Any moisture trapped in the flower drastically increases your chance of rot, no matter how low the humidity or how much airflow you have. All spraying should be planned before you are 2 weeks into flower, once you have problems in flower, there is rarely anything you can do that will not make the problem worse. I would wait for a few more answers, but I think you have nutrient issues and not bud rot.