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Drip systems... Use a timer?

pifflestikkz
pifflestikkzstarted grow question 3mo ago
Spyder farmer Drip system... Does anyone use timers for drip systems? If so, what is your recommendation to timing of being on and intervals of it's use throughout the day? Nozzles are on minimum drip, any help??
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ATLien415
ATLien415answered grow question 3mo ago
Ultraviolet shooting way above the question lol...but he is correct. In fact, soil deltas are measured in units that are de facto magnitudes larger than any possible pressure gradient in the air... For all the talk about VPD, VPD is possibly 3.0000000001% of the full story for water activity. I wouldn't time my drips. I use drips at times, and I have netafims on the end which consistently deliver 4 drops each head per second...meaning napkin math for timing is super easy. The counter question I would pose is, is setting your drip emitters for the exact conditions of your room and light intensity of that fixture right at this moment, is that going to be productive in the long run or are you going to be immediately changing it the second anything in your room changes?
Mooncat
Mooncatanswered grow question 3mo ago
I strongly second that "strongly suggest pressure compensating emitters, otherwise you'll be adjusting "adjustable" emitters nonstop in perpetuity - pain in the ass." 😅
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00110001001001111O
00110001001001111Oanswered grow question 3mo ago
if doing multiple irrigations per day, you need to figure this stuff out through some trial and error. the size of teh pot and rate at which the plant drinks will be important and varies per garden... and even over time.. you may not be able to do it until the plant and pot are a proper match to warrant it. If the plant can't drink down ~33% of the weight, probably shouldn't re-irrigate. strongly suggest pressure compensating emitters, otherwise you'll be adjusting "adjustable" emitters nonstop in perpetuity - pain in the ass. when the plant can drink down at least 33% of the water, that's a good time for a 'multiple' irrigation. Some minimal 'dryback' will be needed to avoid rootzone issues. there's no reason to do more 3x per day from what i understand. Empirical research i read, but not written in stone. They didn't find any measurable benefit compared to the control group going beyond 3x/day. I wouldn't think runoff is too important for all irrigations, but at least 1 irrigation per day (probably last one is best) should give the typical 10% runoff for soilless context. Minimal runoff for the 'other' daily irrigations to ensure the job is done right. The runoff would still be important for maintaining consistent concentration and balance in the root zone. As far as how long to run it.. again, your pot size, drainage properties etc will make it different from anyone else in all but the luckiest of circumstances. Run it, time it, take note. If you re-irrigate at same mloss of weight, it will require the same volume and therefor the same operation time to accomplish the task. You obviously want to fine-tune this for the 'worst-case' pot.. the one that takes the most water relative to the other pots. A little extra is fine, but underwatering in this context is the one that will lead to problems. if you weren't interested in multiple irrigations per day and i misread, simply ingore that part... make sure it runs long enough to give 10% runoff... Allow more loss of weight than 33%, of course. everything else still applies. still just a simple soilless context. and if soil... mostly the same but don't need that 10% runoff.
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Ultraviolet
Ultravioletanswered grow question 3mo ago
The Soil-Plant-Atmosphere Continuum (SPAC) is a framework that describes how water moves through soil, plants, and the atmosphere. It's based on the principle that water moves from areas of high water potential to low water potential, driven by a gradient of water potential. The environmentals you set will dictate rate of water usage. Timers are risky because it's not based on any part of spac cycle. Just blanket watering. If something breaks and rh spikes then no water will move from medium and water will keep pouring in causing irreversible dmg if left to oversaturate too long. If you have your setup dialed in you can link the rh going below a threshold as the time to water. When RH is measured in a medium, it's essentially a way of assessing the air's moisture content within that specific environment, such as a grow tent. Rh in the air is generally relatively to rh in the medium, when it runs short in medium, the plant no longer spits vapor into the air and rh will take a noticeable hit dropping 10-20rh almost instantly. Soon as a plant stops performing endothermic cooling of transpiration, temps will shoot up 5-10 degrees. Cannabis plants start to shut down and conserve water, this will appear as turgor droop when there is about 10-15% of its water reserves left. At this point you have around 24 hours before permanent damage is done. I use this method to determine when I water during flower although not on auto watering system but could be implemented easily. Gluck. Airpots or fabric with good airflow and slightly encouraged warmer, drier conditions allow for removal as overwatering as a possibility. Once this possibility is removed due to passive evaporation then you can water all you want and never worry ( within reason ).
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Hashy
Hashyanswered grow question 3mo ago
I use a smart WiFi plug and an app called smart life, I set the timer to turn on the pump then turn it off after 5 mins, wait 15 mins then back on for 5, I do this about 6-10 times depending on the flow rate I set my drippers to.
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