Banana Purple Punch Auto #Test1

BunnyBud My First Autoflower Growing Indoor 🌸 Finally! I've decided to document my very first autoflower growing experience, starting from scratch with a 60×50×104 cm growbox. It's small, I know, but perfect for learning the ropes and figuring out how everything works. Reality Check: My First Tests During preliminary tests, I discovered something interesting and slightly concerning: starting from 26°C room temperature with the AC running, my growbox hits 28-29°C in about 2.5-3 hours. The maximum peak? A whopping 32°C with lights on and the box fully closed! For now, I've put a damp towel inside - sounds like a DIY hack, but it actually works to stabilize temperatures a bit and reduce those thermal swings. The Economics of It All Smart plugs let me monitor power consumption in real-time - currently running about €0.11/kWh. In a few weeks, I'll have to turn off the AC (my wallet will thank me!), so the first weeks will be characterized by high temperatures around 30-31°C. Fortunately, September and October should bring cooler conditions. My Germination Strategy During germination, I'll keep the lamp 60 cm from the seedlings - that's the maximum height I can manage in this box, but it should minimize light and heat stress on those emerging roots. Later, when the plants are stronger, I'll transfer them to the larger 60×60×180 cm growbox. Oh, almost forgot! A 350 ml/h ultrasonic humidifier is on its way, which should give me much more precise humidity control. My Current Setup The Growbox: 60×50×104 cm - perfect for two autoflowers in 6.5L pots using LST (Low Stress Training). Lighting: Spider Farmer SF-1000D suspended via pulley system near the ceiling, with about 4-5 cm clearance for heat dissipation. Ventilation: 130 m³/h extractor (4" diameter) that expels hot, humid air directly out the window - genius for preventing the room from becoming an oven! Plus a USB clip fan for internal air circulation. Climate: Ambient temperature stable around 26°C; inside the box 27-28°C without lights, jumping to 32°C when they're on. Substrate: BioBizz Light Mix combined with leftover perlite I had - exact quantity will depend on what's available, aiming for the right balance between aerated structure and water retention capacity. Nutrition: BioBizz Fish-Mix for vegetative growth, plus Grow and Bloom. pH maintained between 6.2-6.5. No CalMag for now. Monitoring: Two digital hygrometers connected to an app - one inside the growbox, one in the room. So I can check everything from my phone! Humidification: Two traditional humidifiers, plus the ultrasonic one coming for finer control. My Observations and The Plan The ventilation system works well - it manages to prevent heat and humidity from building up both in the box and the room. That's a win! The germination strategy is simple: lamp at 60 cm and hope for the best. The first weeks will be challenging with those high temperatures (30-31°C) when I turn off the AC, but then autumn should help me out. The plan is to grow the seedlings in the small box, then transfer them to the big one for flowering. Meanwhile, I'm monitoring everything: temperature, humidity, power consumption. The goal is to optimize the on/off cycles. Final Thoughts This first cycle is more of a technical experiment - I want to understand how to manage climate and lighting, stabilize temperature and humidity according to what the plants will ask for at each stage. The transfer to the larger box and winter approaching should improve conditions for optimal growth and flowering. I'll update this diary with all the quantitative data: yields, organoleptic characteristics, setup modifications. It'll be interesting to see how this first adventure turns out! Stay tuned for the next update! Ps: there is also a hole where the air enters passively, only it is hidden by the fan ❤️ 😅 ==UPDATE== BY INSERTING AN ULTRASONIC HUMIDIFIER I ACHIEVED THESE RESULTS, WHICH IS PERFECT 🌡️ Temperature: 23.3°C / 73.9°F 💧 Dew Point: 16.0°C / 60.8°F 💧 Relative Humidity: 63.6% ☁️ Absolute Humidity: 13.3 g/m³ 💨 Vapor Pressure: 18.2 mbar 🌱 VPD (Water Stress): 0.66 kPa 💨 Air Density: 0.012 kg/m³ ✅ Comfort Index: 100/100 🌿 Heat Stress: ✅ Optimal 🔋 Battery: 100% ⏰ Last update: 08/17/2025 12:49:35 I created a Python script that, starting with just 2–3 parameters measured by my Govee H5075 hygrometer, uses real scientific formulas to calculate all the other environmental values. This way, I can monitor my grow box much more effectively! I knew AI and programming skills would come in handy for this too lol ❤️🤣 ==UPDATE 22 AUGUST== Photoperiod: ➜ Emergence (day 0): 1 day without artificial light. ➜ Days 1–2: indirect natural light from the window. ➜ 17 August: first day under the lamp → 8 hours. ➜ 18 August: increased to 15 hours. ➜ From 19 August: stabilized at 16 hours of light per day, likely to remain this way due to practical reasons. Lamp distance: ➜ From 21 August: distance reduced from 60 cm to 50 cm → noticeable and more consistent growth. Plant status: ➜ Healthy plant with gradual growth. ➜ LST (Low Stress Training) will be applied in the next days to control height and shape. Watering & nutrients: ➜ Method: Med-Man. ➜ Water at 130 ppm, pH between 5.8–6.0. ➜ From 22 August: start of light foliar spraying (10 minutes before lights on) with pH 6.0, using a mixture of 3 parts water : 1 part Grow fertilizer. ➜ Purpose: slightly stimulate the plant during the early growth stage. Internal climate: ➜ Average temperature: 26–27 °C, with peaks up to 28–29 °C when the air conditioner is off. ➜ Humidity: kept stable using humidifier + damp cloth inside the box, which lowers temperature slightly and stabilizes the environment. Planned improvements: ➜ Purchase of: ➜ Dehumidifier for better humidity control. ➜ Wi-Fi hygrometer for more precise monitoring. ➜ Adjustable extractor fan, to better manage airflow and reduce nighttime noise.

BunnyBud ==UPDATE 23 AUGUST – PREPARING WEEK 2== ➜ Growth is starting to pick up a bit now that I lowered the light from 60 cm → 50 cm → 45 cm. ➜ Leaves developed noticeably in just one day. ➜ Height increased by 1 cm in a day, from 6 cm → 7 cm. ➜ Tomorrow I’ll start feeding with very low nutrients, around 200–210 ppm, just ¼ of the recommended dose. ➜ Overall, everything looks good. Only minor temp fluctuations, sometimes hitting 29.5°C because I couldn’t run the AC, but windows are fully open. ➜ Plant seems a bit small for week 2, but many growers say this is completely normal. Could be due to:   • Low light intensity early on   • Slight stress from handling and lighting schedule adjustments (first day out of light, then 8h → 15h → 16h/day from day 3 onward) ➜ No major issues; plant is healthy and progressing well. ~•~•~•~•~•~•~•~•~•~•~•~•~ ==Update August 26, 2025 – Autoflower Indoor 60x60x180 cm== Strain: Banana Purple Punch Auto Seed: Banana Purple Punch Auto Plant age: 10 days from sprout --- 1. Substrate and Fertilization Soil: Biobizz Light Mix (nutrients already available for about 4 weeks). Fertilization mistake: On day 8, nutrients were added following the Madman method → overfeeding occurred. Symptoms: leaf tips slightly yellowing, young leaves changing color. Corrective action: nutrients stopped immediately; irrigated with pH 6 water. Note: Biobizz Light Mix already contains nutrients for the early growth phase; fertilizing too early can cause chemical stress even without measuring EC. --- 2. Lighting Light: Spider Farmer SF1000D Distance from canopy: 40–45 cm Practical note: ideal distance to avoid light burn during the first two weeks. --- 3. Climate and Temperature Management Grow box temperature: 28–31°C (current days, no AC, window open in room). Room temperature: 26°C with 66% RH. Grow box humidity: 64–68% Problem: evaporative cooling or humidifier cannot work efficiently when the air is already very saturated. Scientific analysis – evaporative cooling: Text for calculation: ΔT ≈ (T_air - T_wet_bulb) * ((HR_max - HR_current) / HR_max) With RH ≈ 66–68%, ΔT is very limited ( 65%; it only works with drier air

BunnyBud 31 Aug. I start the third week of my autoflower. The plant is growing well, but I noticed small yellow spots on the leaf tips, which seem like a mild calcium deficiency. This is probably due to the fact that so far I have been giving water with a slightly low pH, around 6, while the ideal range would be 6.5–7. At the beginning, to lower the ppm of the tap water (which was around 211 ppm), I mixed it with demineralized water. This brought the ppm down to about 109–140, making it harder for the plant to absorb the available calcium. Additionally, the soil I am using, Biobizz Light Mix, is lightly fertilized but does not contain enough calcium to correct this small initial deficiency. For this week, I will not add any fertilizers. I simply want to raise the pH to 6.5 and use water with higher ppm, so the plant can better absorb the nutrients already present in the soil. The lamp is positioned about 35–36 cm from the plant and so far there are no burn issues. Temperatures range between 25 and 30 °C depending on the day, while humidity in the room stays between 40–60%. The humidifier is always on because I keep the window open, but the dehumidifier is not being used, as it is not necessary at the moment. I also have a new oscillating fan arriving to replace the current fixed one, and I’m waiting for a regulable extractor (90–145 m³/h), which will allow me to control the air perfectly during winter if needed. This week my main goals are: Increase the water ppm without overdoing it Adjust the pH to 6.5 Keep observing the plant without adding any fertilizers Everything else seems fine and growth is regular. With these corrections, I expect the new leaves to grow healthy and free of spots. ==UPDATE 31/08== To control the calcium deficiency, I will administer an eggshell solution until I reach 300 ppm (I will boil some eggshells and administer the solution in tap water).